The T5 Q&a Thread - split

[hobbzz]

How well does the fiji do on the red end compared to coral plus or aquablue special?

These are for supplementing led to start. Maybe going back to all T5 eventually, but we'll see. I was going to do 2 actinic, 2 white full spectrum like aquablue special, and 2 to bring out reds. But if the aquablue special or coral plus do good enough with red, I can just do those and actinic for more even coverage, which is why I ask. Thanks.

[mhucasey]

Originally Posted by hobbzz

How well does the fiji do on the red end compared to coral plus or aquablue special?

These are for supplementing led to start. Maybe going back to all T5 eventually, but we'll see. I was going to do 2 actinic, 2 white full spectrum like aquablue special, and 2 to bring out reds. But if the aquablue special or coral plus do good enough with red, I can just do those and actinic for more even coverage, which is why I ask. Thanks.

The coral plus is a combination of phosphors equivalent to 50% Blue Plus, 40% AquaBlue Special, 10% Purple Plus. To me it looks lavender but casts a pinkish hue that i don't like.

The Fiji Purple is similar but superior to the Purple Plus, more red than the coral plus. It doesn't overwhelm but adds a lot of richness to the color of the tank.

[hobbzz]

Ok thanks for the help. I'll stick with white + fiji purple.

[Redrosetuscan]

I'm wondering if I should replace my ati tubes. They are now 7mths old and run for about 8hrs a day.
Reasons why:

I recently put some Red Sea tubes on my frag tank, actinic 22k and their 15k tubes, they appear to my eye quite a bit brighter than my ati tubes.

Display tank has recently started to get cyano. I have been dosing fauna marin colour elements which I am unsure if they bring cyano on.

Either way the Red Sea tubes look great, 4 actinic 22k and 2 15k and it's a really nice not too blue not too white look IMO.

[mhucasey]

FM color elements can trigger cyano. In my tank I lowererd the dose partly because of this. ATI tubes, if cooled, should be good for about 10 months or more. If you like the red sea, though, give them some time and see what you think. You can always go back to the ATI or get new ATI then

[swk]

I start replacing bulbs around 8 months. By the time I'm done they've been in around 9 months. They probably would last a tad longer, but that's long enough for me

[shred5]

Originally Posted by RTMA

+1

Here is my new Matrixx II Dimtec.


bulbs:

Blue+
Aquablue +
Super Act
Fiji
Blue+
Super Act
Gman Midday 6K
Blue+

Yea the matrixx is a nice fixture. The looks are the best I have seen in a T5 fixture ( it is a piece of art. I love the black glass top it really adds class)



I had my fans stop working on one Ati fixture over my frag tanks, I added a second frag tank so I bought the Matrixx to go over my main tank and was going to put my ATI fixture from my main tank over both frags. Well I did and now my other ATI fixtures fans don't work either.

Trying to get a pic of the matrixx is hard when the lights are on.

[mhucasey]

Originally Posted by shred5

Yea the matrixx is a nice fixture. The looks are the best I have seen in a T5 fixture ( it is a piece of art. I love the black glass top it really adds class)



I had my fans stop working on one Ati fixture over my frag tanks, I added a second frag tank so I bought the Matrixx to go over my main tank and was going to put my ATI fixture from my main tank over both frags. Well I did and now my other ATI fixtures fans don't work either.

Trying to get a pic of the matrixx is hard when the lights are on.

That is a slick looking fixture for sure!

[lushuk]

I have a 8 tube unit and change tubes every 12 months (well 1 tube every 6 weeks approx so it staggers it over the year) not for any reason apart from a year sounds right �� I never see no reason to change them quicker, and because I change one every 6 weeks it never makes a difference that I can see ��

[shred5]

Originally Posted by mhucasey

That is a slick looking fixture for sure!

Yea it is, easy on the eyes, my girlfriend likes it too..
The powder coating is nice vs just a piece of bent aluminum. I always thought my ATI was sleek, i had the original powermodule T-5 which was the higher end fixture they stopped making.

Right now the Matrixx is white/black or black/black.. Can you imagine if Coralvue starts bringing in some of the other colors or they add like racing colors like red or blue..

I think they have a hit or at least something as a alternative to ATI on the t-5 front.

[Redrosetuscan]

Originally Posted by mhucasey

FM color elements can trigger cyano. In my tank I lowererd the dose partly because of this. ATI tubes, if cooled, should be good for about 10 months or more. If you like the red sea, though, give them some time and see what you think. You can always go back to the ATI or get new ATI then

Ah! that may explain it then, I'm dosing about 2.5ml per 100l so will lower to 1.5 or perhaps cut it out for a couple of weeks. siphon some out and keep up with wc etc.

i have asked claude on another forum but haven't had a response yet.

Ill leave the anti tubes in for now then, acro colours are all really good at the minute in any case

[JamesHolt]

Hello,
I have a 6 bulb 54w fixture to setup over a deep blue 60 frag tank,40g sump.
It has two ATI Blue Plus,two ATI Aquablue Special.. this is a temporary setup as I am doing a tank shuffle to make room for my 180.
The frag tank is 2'x4'x1' water depth is around 11-1/2"
Got a few to move around so everybody will be in this for a bit..
What bulbs would you recommend for the last two slots and how high off the water should the fixture be??....
Critter and coral list is here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=778
Eveything it that 40g breeder is going in the frag tank..
I have a par meter, just looking for a good starting place as to height or a value to aim for....

Thanks

[mhucasey]

Originally Posted by JamesHolt

Hello,
I have a 6 bulb 54w fixture to setup over a deep blue 60 frag tank,40g sump.
It has two ATI Blue Plus,two ATI Aquablue Special.. this is a temporary setup as I am doing a tank shuffle to make room for my 180.
The frag tank is 2'x4'x1' water depth is around 11-1/2"
Got a few to move around so everybody will be in this for a bit..
What bulbs would you recommend for the last two slots and how high off the water should the fixture be??....
Critter and coral list is here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=778
Eveything it that 40g breeder is going in the frag tank..
I have a par meter, just looking for a good starting place as to height or a value to aim for....

Thanks

I would add a Fiji Purple and another blue plus. Hang the light about 10-12" above the water based on spread to cover as much space as you can.

[JonasW]

I'm using 4 T5:s since a year back in my Pacific Sun hybrid - Pandora S (2x145W LED).
The current setup is ATI C+ B+ C+ B+.
T
his gives me a rather white, crispy look. Green corals has a great "pop".

Someone said that B+ ABS P+ B+ maybe would better mix for getting more pop.
Do you agree with this or do you have another, better setup? I like a rather white look like I have today, but I could possibly live with a bit more blue if it gives me more pop.

I can choose between ATI, Aqua Science, Pacific Sun and Powerchrome tubes in my store.

[fessoclown]

If you like the look your getting now that is a great combo. I would suggest adding a ReefBright actinic strip for the extra blue pop.

[JonasW]

Great, thanks!
So there's no big gain in coral growth/health if I go for another combo then? B+ and C+ covers the most important spectrum?

[fessoclown]

I believe it does. I just added a DIY actinic strip to my 6x80W instead of buying an actual Reefbright. It really does give a bunch of extra pop and I run it as an extra bright "moon light" on its own after the fixture shuts down.
My combo is similar to yours but six bulbs.
B+
C+
B+
P+
C+
B+
Diy reef bright

If I only had 4 bulbs I would do your combo.

[JonasW]

Sounds good.

[DiscusHeckel]

Does anyone know whether or not FM Ultra Royal Blue and FM Aquascience Blue are the same tubes?

Thanks

[sahin]

Originally Posted by DiscusHeckel

Does anyone know whether or not FM Ultra Royal Blue and FM Aquascience Blue are the same tubes?

Thanks

I would like to know this also.

[mhucasey]

Originally Posted by DiscusHeckel

Does anyone know whether or not FM Ultra Royal Blue and FM Aquascience Blue are the same tubes?

Thanks

Nope, different bulbs. FM sells both on their site.

[sahin]

The Giesemann fixture is a heck of a sleek fixture for sure. The ATI in terms of performance, nothing else can currently come close. I think it was Ryan who did a PAR measurement for two equivalent ATI and Giesemann units and found the ATI had around 15-20% more PAR. Its mentioned somewhere on his thread.

[Tank2379]

Been out of the T-5 Bulb manufacturer game awhile, I have seen less and less of UVL bulbs around lately anyone know what is going on? need to get some UVL Actinic White bulbs T-5 and can't seem to find any?

[mhucasey]

Originally Posted by Tank2379

Been out of the T-5 Bulb manufacturer game awhile, I have seen less and less of UVL bulbs around lately anyone know what is going on? need to get some UVL Actinic White bulbs T-5 and can't seem to find any?

Not sure where to purchase the whites, the blues are still available at Marine Depot and BRS, but for a couple of bucks more you should get the vastly superior bulbs that ATI or Giesemann make, IMO.

[DavidinGA]

Originally Posted by mhucasey

Ideally yes. The ATI model, which gets the best bulb cooling results, directs a jet of cool air at a 90 degree angle from the bulb. With the cover up against the edge of each reflector, the air flows around the cold spot then travels down the length of the bulb.

Would this guys design be beneficial if I mounted my fans like he did to cool the "cold spot"?