Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread - Page 30

EvMiBo · 02/06/2015, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy n

I need one of these badly. Any current recommendations?

Any digital brushless. They're more expensive but worth it in my opinion.

d2mini · 02/07/2015, 02:35 PM

Ok, so my drive is still making that noise, even after new brushes! In fact, the new brushes didn't look any different than the old brushes. But every time i mess with it, the noise temporarily goes away. It seems to be coming from somewhere around that metal fan thing that spins off the back of the motor. I tired spraying some silicone lubricant around the fan's shaft/bearings but it didn't do anything.
Any other ideas? It's kind of annoying.

tkeracer619 · 02/07/2015, 03:19 PM

Did I ever mention brushless drives?

I assume the brush kit came with new holders? Try a little lithium grease on the brush holder. Not the contact surface but the slides. See if that helps.

Also, the new brushes will take time to seat. If you can look into the brush port and see the commutator it should look smooth. If it has grooves in it you may need to take it apart and clean that up. Brushes are kind of annoying little devils, they can look find but be totally messed up. I am not sure the compound CP uses, it may be too stiff and causes chatter on older less perfect comms.

Give the lithium grease a try and let it run for a week, let us know what happens.

Back in the day when I raced unlimited electric modified RC cars on an oval track we were running 16 cell batteries. Had to turn the comms and replace brushes after every race

. Those thing would hit over 100mph though.

d2mini · 02/07/2015, 03:48 PM

Ok, I'll try the grease and check the comm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

Back in the day when I raced unlimited electric modified RC cars on an oval track we were running 16 cell batteries. Had to turn the comms and replace brushes after every race

. Those thing would hit over 100mph though.

You should see the LiPo batteries now.
You can get a Traxxas car that does 100mph out of the box!
My Slash 4x4 does close to 40 on a 2s LiPo. I'm too scared to try anything more than a 3s.

tkeracer619 · 02/07/2015, 05:34 PM

crazy. I stopped probably about 14 years ago, still have a bunch of stuff laying around. The first nitro powered team associated rc10 touring car included. I built the first one, they copied it and made a kit to sell to the public.

I used to build my own engines and motors, won my fair share of some races vs the pros. I was sponsored... Good times. I've been thinking of getting back into choppers but then I remember how that always ended. I also dabbled in throttle exhaust hydroplanes from time to time.

sean2sean · 02/07/2015, 11:15 PM

Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my calcium reactor and master flex pump. When I clamp down the lever on the head, for some reason I'm having a hard time pumping CO2 to the calcium reactor. I would have to crank up the PSI high just to get any CO2 into the reactor. But once I raised the lever, CO2 flows into the reactor just fine. I'm running the pump at 90 mill per minute.

I checked the lines and nothing seems clogged. So I can't really figure out what's wrong.

Any ideas? Thx!

tkeracer619 · 02/07/2015, 11:53 PM

This is a new one.

Are you pushing into the reactor?

How high do you have to turn the regulator?

That would indicate that there is pressure building in the reactor.

What happens if you slow down to say 45ml/min?

What happens if you pull through instead of push?

I have seen a tiny flake of media get into a tube fitting and nothing looks clogged and when you don't flow effluent through it quickly the effluent moves freely. When you try to force a lot of water through the reactor it pushes the media against the fitting and clogs the reactor.

Can you post some pics, it might help catch something odd.

Has this system ran before or are you just trying to set it up for the first time?

sean2sean · 02/08/2015, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

This is a new one.

Are you pushing into the reactor?

i have the masterflex installed at the output of the calcium reactor.

How high do you have to turn the regulator?

before it was set at 8psi. now i have to set it at 9 psi, even at that pressure, the co2 going into the bubble counter is very small. and once i lift the lever, a large amount of co2 will go into the reactor.

That would indicate that there is pressure building in the reactor.

when i remove the checkvalve that goes inbetween the regulator and line that goes to bubble counter, water just shoots out. luckily i have the checkvalve in place!

What happens if you slow down to say 45ml/min?

same thing at 45ml per min. its currently at 40ml

What happens if you pull through instead of push?

pull through instead of push? do you mean having the masterflex right after the manifold and before the reactor?

I have seen a tiny flake of media get into a tube fitting and nothing looks clogged and when you don't flow effluent through it quickly the effluent moves freely. When you try to force a lot of water through the reactor it pushes the media against the fitting and clogs the reactor.

i will try and change out a few more 1/4 inch lines. and see if that will help.

Can you post some pics, it might help catch something odd.

Has this system ran before or are you just trying to set it up for the first time?

this masterflex has been running for 6 months. i was gone for 3 months. and noticed that there was an issue after i came back.

scottwhitson · 02/08/2015, 05:42 PM

Sean2sean you mention using a manifold in your setup you aren't feeding the reactor from a return manifold and using the masterflex pump are you? The masterflex should just be pulling water from the sump or display whichever you choose.

tkeracer619 · 02/08/2015, 05:55 PM

Yes, please remove the manifold from the setup and pull from the sump.

jimmy n · 02/08/2015, 07:11 PM

In line with what TKeracer recommended, I 'll have 2 pumps and digital drives soon. I'm willing to dump the second at cost. If you need one, I'll send it. I paid around 700 for two so you can the second for 350. I may keep them around as a potential backup. Can you remind me what tubing I need TK? Thanks. Jim

tkeracer619 · 02/08/2015, 08:55 PM

Did you purchase the easyload 3 I linked you as well?

If so this would be what I would order. This gives you two extra clamps and an extra fitting plus enough tubing for a couple years of operation.

**** For 1/4" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36204

(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009

(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082

(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534

He has a brushless unit for sale for $350 folks. Good units that others here are using.

Tcook · 02/08/2015, 10:03 PM

What unit? What head?

jimmy n · 02/09/2015, 04:10 PM

I did, thanks TK

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

Did you purchase the easyload 3 I linked you as well?

If so this would be what I would order. This gives you two extra clamps and an extra fitting plus enough tubing for a couple years of operation.

**** For 1/4" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36204

(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009

(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082

(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534

He has a brushless unit for sale for $350 folks. Good units that others here are using.

tkeracer619 · 02/09/2015, 04:33 PM

It is a Barnant custom ordered pump. Same ones I sold a while back but he doesn't have an additional pump head.

The seller has more of them but they are selling them in lots. Look up 900-1555 and 900-1554 on ebay.

They are the same units I sold in this thread
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2172515

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy n

I did, thanks TK

YW, thats a sweet setup.

trivan · 02/11/2015, 08:59 PM

I just joined the MasterFlex camp for my new build. I bought a 7524-50 w/77200-62 pump head. I think I got one with the correct specs for my set up, all the different models is mind numbing.

For the tubing, the head says it accepts L/S 15, 24, 35 and 36. The LS 24 seem to be the closest match to the LS 17, which is linked to purchase. Can I substitute? If not is there one on US Plastics which is comparable? Thanks for all the great info.

jgalen0025 · 02/12/2015, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by d2mini

Ok, I'll try the grease and check the comm.

You should see the LiPo batteries now.
You can get a Traxxas car that does 100mph out of the box!
My Slash 4x4 does close to 40 on a 2s LiPo. I'm too scared to try anything more than a 3s.

haha thats nothing. my 710mm bladed rc electric heli uses a 14s 5000mah lipo (2 7s 5000mah in series) pulling 200 amp peaks.

Anyway back on topic. My question to the experts is if i can split the effluent of one reactor for two systems using two masterflex dosing pumps?

GatorAlum05 · 02/12/2015, 07:46 AM

jimmy n

just sent you a PM. Been trying to contact the sellers to split up their lot with no help. Let me know. Thank you.

tkeracer619 · 02/12/2015, 11:43 PM

If anyone is looking for a top off pump there is a pretty good price on some fixed speed (20rpm) masterflex units. He will accept a $60 offer. These units look to be in good shape. This is what I usually use for a top off pump. I just purchased 3 of them to pull two old but still functioning units out of operation and one for the 36gal invert/coral qt I am setting up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291379887914

GatorAlum05 · 02/13/2015, 11:29 AM

Jimmy scratch it. I didn't hear from you soon enough so I went and bought the pair and splitting it with Dennis. Came out to be 330 or so for the set up. Will be anxiously waiting to set it up. Now which pump head is recommended ? Easy load 1, 2, or 3?

tkeracer619 · 02/13/2015, 12:04 PM

Awesome!

Any of the easyloads are fine but the ones I prefer have stainless rotors.

Always put the pump head model numbers into coleparmer.com and see what they really are.

You wan't one for "precision" tubing. It will tell you that, as well as if it's stainless or cold rolled steel in the title. Unless you have a specialty drive that requires the long shaft do not buy anything that states "long shaft" on Coleparmer's description.

Look to pay around $100 used and more if new. It is nearly impossible to tell the condition of the moving surfaces from ebay. Often I look at the color of the drive cog on the face of the head (not the shaft but the drive cog for stacking a second head). If it's dirty (brown tarnish), odds are the bearing seals have given out over time. If it's shiny odds say the head has limited use or at at least good maintenance. Could also mean the seller polished a turd.

tkeracer619 · 02/13/2015, 12:06 PM

BTW those constant speed drives I linked are current models which retail around $300.

d2mini · 02/13/2015, 01:04 PM

Woohoo! Looking forward to getting this new drive.
Already have the 7518 Easy Load head. 7518-00 (what i have... I ended up with 3) are cold rolled steel, and the 7518-10 are stainless.

I'm running (a different) 20 RPM drive with a 7017-02 head (the little clear ones) for my ATO and it's working out great. If I didn't already have it I would have snagged one of those ones tkeracer posted above when I first saw them, before they were posted here.
Pretty good deal.

tkeracer619 · 02/13/2015, 01:19 PM

Yup, good drives for dosing, kalk, and general top off.

Reason I want to pull one of the drives is so I can rebuild it. See if we can come up with a solution to the dreaded brush squeak. If I can make this particular one quiet, anything is possible.

Adamc1303 · 02/13/2015, 02:47 PM

I noticed that I am getting allot of exceed bubbles in my calcium reactor on the bottom of the first chamber. I am also not able to get a decent bubble size unless I have the pressure set to 50 psi. I get water in the line right between the calcium reactor and check valve. Just those few inches and I always have to make sure the pressure is torn enough to push the bubbles though the water. Here's a picture of my setup let me know if you see anything wrong. I have it sucking through the reactors not pushing that water.

02/07/2015, 02:35 PM	#727
d2mini Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 10,344	Ok, so my drive is still making that noise, even after new brushes! In fact, the new brushes didn't look any different than the old brushes. But every time i mess with it, the noise temporarily goes away. It seems to be coming from somewhere around that metal fan thing that spins off the back of the motor. I tired spraying some silicone lubricant around the fan's shaft/bearings but it didn't do anything. Any other ideas? It's kind of annoying. __________________ -dennis Elos Diamond 120xl \| Elos Stand \| Radion G4 Pros \| GHL Profilux Controller \| LifeReef Skimmer \| LifeReef Sump Photos taken with a Nikon D750 or Leica M.

02/07/2015, 03:19 PM	#728
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Did I ever mention brushless drives? I assume the brush kit came with new holders? Try a little lithium grease on the brush holder. Not the contact surface but the slides. See if that helps. Also, the new brushes will take time to seat. If you can look into the brush port and see the commutator it should look smooth. If it has grooves in it you may need to take it apart and clean that up. Brushes are kind of annoying little devils, they can look find but be totally messed up. I am not sure the compound CP uses, it may be too stiff and causes chatter on older less perfect comms. Give the lithium grease a try and let it run for a week, let us know what happens. Back in the day when I raced unlimited electric modified RC cars on an oval track we were running 16 cell batteries. Had to turn the comms and replace brushes after every race . Those thing would hit over 100mph though. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/07/2015, 05:34 PM	#730
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	crazy. I stopped probably about 14 years ago, still have a bunch of stuff laying around. The first nitro powered team associated rc10 touring car included. I built the first one, they copied it and made a kit to sell to the public. I used to build my own engines and motors, won my fair share of some races vs the pros. I was sponsored... Good times. I've been thinking of getting back into choppers but then I remember how that always ended. I also dabbled in throttle exhaust hydroplanes from time to time. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/07/2015, 11:53 PM	#732
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	This is a new one. Are you pushing into the reactor? How high do you have to turn the regulator? That would indicate that there is pressure building in the reactor. What happens if you slow down to say 45ml/min? What happens if you pull through instead of push? I have seen a tiny flake of media get into a tube fitting and nothing looks clogged and when you don't flow effluent through it quickly the effluent moves freely. When you try to force a lot of water through the reactor it pushes the media against the fitting and clogs the reactor. Can you post some pics, it might help catch something odd. Has this system ran before or are you just trying to set it up for the first time? __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/08/2015, 05:55 PM	#735
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Yes, please remove the manifold from the setup and pull from the sump. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/07/2015, 11:15 PM	#731
sean2sean Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: El Monte, CA Posts: 722	Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my calcium reactor and master flex pump. When I clamp down the lever on the head, for some reason I'm having a hard time pumping CO2 to the calcium reactor. I would have to crank up the PSI high just to get any CO2 into the reactor. But once I raised the lever, CO2 flows into the reactor just fine. I'm running the pump at 90 mill per minute. I checked the lines and nothing seems clogged. So I can't really figure out what's wrong. Any ideas? Thx!

02/08/2015, 05:42 PM	#734
scottwhitson Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Lewiston, Idaho Posts: 1,395	Sean2sean you mention using a manifold in your setup you aren't feeding the reactor from a return manifold and using the masterflex pump are you? The masterflex should just be pulling water from the sump or display whichever you choose.

02/08/2015, 07:11 PM	#736
jimmy n Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 1,256	In line with what TKeracer recommended, I 'll have 2 pumps and digital drives soon. I'm willing to dump the second at cost. If you need one, I'll send it. I paid around 700 for two so you can the second for 350. I may keep them around as a potential backup. Can you remind me what tubing I need TK? Thanks. Jim

02/08/2015, 08:55 PM	#737
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Did you purchase the easyload 3 I linked you as well? If so this would be what I would order. This gives you two extra clamps and an extra fitting plus enough tubing for a couple years of operation. ** For 1/4" OD John Guest to LS/17 ** (QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36204 (QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009 (QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082 (QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534 He has a brushless unit for sale for $350 folks. Good units that others here are using. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/08/2015, 10:03 PM	#738
Tcook Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Visalia, CA Posts: 1,350	What unit? What head?

02/11/2015, 08:59 PM	#741
trivan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 70	I just joined the MasterFlex camp for my new build. I bought a 7524-50 w/77200-62 pump head. I think I got one with the correct specs for my set up, all the different models is mind numbing. For the tubing, the head says it accepts L/S 15, 24, 35 and 36. The LS 24 seem to be the closest match to the LS 17, which is linked to purchase. Can I substitute? If not is there one on US Plastics which is comparable? Thanks for all the great info.

02/12/2015, 07:46 AM	#743
GatorAlum05 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: FL Posts: 406	jimmy n just sent you a PM. Been trying to contact the sellers to split up their lot with no help. Let me know. Thank you.

02/12/2015, 11:43 PM	#744
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	If anyone is looking for a top off pump there is a pretty good price on some fixed speed (20rpm) masterflex units. He will accept a $60 offer. These units look to be in good shape. This is what I usually use for a top off pump. I just purchased 3 of them to pull two old but still functioning units out of operation and one for the 36gal invert/coral qt I am setting up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291379887914 __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/13/2015, 11:29 AM	#745
GatorAlum05 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: FL Posts: 406	Jimmy scratch it. I didn't hear from you soon enough so I went and bought the pair and splitting it with Dennis. Came out to be 330 or so for the set up. Will be anxiously waiting to set it up. Now which pump head is recommended ? Easy load 1, 2, or 3?

02/13/2015, 12:04 PM	#746
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Awesome! Any of the easyloads are fine but the ones I prefer have stainless rotors. Always put the pump head model numbers into coleparmer.com and see what they really are. You wan't one for "precision" tubing. It will tell you that, as well as if it's stainless or cold rolled steel in the title. Unless you have a specialty drive that requires the long shaft do not buy anything that states "long shaft" on Coleparmer's description. Look to pay around $100 used and more if new. It is nearly impossible to tell the condition of the moving surfaces from ebay. Often I look at the color of the drive cog on the face of the head (not the shaft but the drive cog for stacking a second head). If it's dirty (brown tarnish), odds are the bearing seals have given out over time. If it's shiny odds say the head has limited use or at at least good maintenance. Could also mean the seller polished a turd. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/13/2015, 12:06 PM	#747
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	BTW those constant speed drives I linked are current models which retail around $300. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

02/13/2015, 01:04 PM	#748
d2mini Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 10,344	Woohoo! Looking forward to getting this new drive. Already have the 7518 Easy Load head. 7518-00 (what i have... I ended up with 3) are cold rolled steel, and the 7518-10 are stainless. I'm running (a different) 20 RPM drive with a 7017-02 head (the little clear ones) for my ATO and it's working out great. If I didn't already have it I would have snagged one of those ones tkeracer posted above when I first saw them, before they were posted here. Pretty good deal. __________________ -dennis Elos Diamond 120xl \| Elos Stand \| Radion G4 Pros \| GHL Profilux Controller \| LifeReef Skimmer \| LifeReef Sump Photos taken with a Nikon D750 or Leica M.

02/13/2015, 01:19 PM	#749
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Yup, good drives for dosing, kalk, and general top off. Reason I want to pull one of the drives is so I can rebuild it. See if we can come up with a solution to the dreaded brush squeak. If I can make this particular one quiet, anything is possible. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.