SC Aquariums Owners Thread - Page 45

acer · 08/08/2016, 12:27 PM

Glad you guys are working thru the plumbing issues. Yes, I agree the PNP was not up to my specific standards. Hence- the custom build. Putting the glass baffles into my 40 breeder and 75 gallon sump/refugium setup. Guess what- when I measured for the baffles I only measured the 75 for width of baffles, and the 40 is about a 1/4 inch wider- NOOO!!! I think, whit the help of a friend( thanks Kevin) - we were able to get the baffles in and I wont know if the silicone will hold with that big of a gap until I run a test - in 6 days.

soulpatch · 08/08/2016, 12:42 PM

1/4 is quite a gap to hope for the silicone to hold for a baffle.

acer · 08/08/2016, 12:59 PM

Yes- hence waiting a good long time for it to cure solid. Then test. - so well see. I am soo mad at myself- should have measured both tanks - the other baffles for the 75 gallon are perfect. = IDIOT!

soulpatch · 08/08/2016, 01:05 PM

ish happens and glass is cheap. I would redo it right personally

acer · 08/08/2016, 01:22 PM

If it was the only sump in the system - I would redo /pay for new baffles , but since it is a sump that just feeds to refugium as long as the last baffle holds - I am OK. If it does hold as is, then I will use 2 of the baffles offsetting them slightly (silicone them together that way) - then placing them in the tank so they will hold. If the bubble plate baffle leaks a bit - no biggie.

soulpatch · 08/08/2016, 01:37 PM

As you can see in my thread I am a bit OCD with even the innards of the stand so it would irk me. so long as it holds for you cool.

acer · 08/08/2016, 02:34 PM

Ya- I am more into function than how it looks. Detail oriented- but NOT OCD.

tassy · 08/11/2016, 05:47 PM

Is anyone using the ceramic beads that were supplied with the sump? If so did you leave them in the bag they came in? I'm already going to use Marine pure and live rock do you think they're necessary? Or just another detritus trap.

Thnx John

oside erinn · 08/11/2016, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tassy

Is anyone using the ceramic beads that were supplied with the sump? If so did you leave them in the bag they came in? I'm already going to use Marine pure and live rock do you think they're necessary? Or just another detritus trap.

Thnx John

I added a filter sock and underneath that I have those ceramic beads still in the bag they came in. Seems to be working fine so far, but I've only been set up for about three weeks.

My refugium has Miracle Mud and some Chaeto

soulpatch · 08/12/2016, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tassy

Is anyone using the ceramic beads that were supplied with the sump? If so did you leave them in the bag they came in? I'm already going to use Marine pure and live rock do you think they're necessary? Or just another detritus trap.

Thnx John

the marine pure will more then make up for those cermic beads. I would pitch personally.

jemw · 08/12/2016, 09:25 AM

Does anyone know if the ceramics supplied by SCA leach anything into the water?

CafeReef · 08/12/2016, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jemw

Does anyone know if the ceramics supplied by SCA leach anything into the water?

Can't say that I am right, but I would highly doubt it, ceramic ring's are extremely common. All I know is that they leached their way into my trash can straight out of the box. Crushed live rock rubble is my go to

soulpatch · 08/12/2016, 09:41 AM

all ceramic leach various forms of harmless metals including aluminum. It is how they are cast and created that the aluminum gets in there. But numerous triton tests and such of various media has yet to show anything dangerous that we know of.

That said we put a ton of items in our tank that "leach" various items.

Even still ceramic rings are better suited for FW IMHO.

davocean · 08/12/2016, 09:50 AM

I agree, no need for the ceramic media in our reefs, best for FW

rtague · 08/12/2016, 09:54 AM

Will the schedule 80 bulkheads from brs fit the 50 cube drain and return?

soulpatch · 08/12/2016, 10:12 AM

they are a bit tight but work. No need to go to schedule 80 for the bulkheads though. Go with their regular ABS ones.

rtague · 08/12/2016, 11:14 AM

Thanks Soulpatch,it's just that I've read that the abs have a tendency to crack and that the schedule 80 are much more durable,what do you think?

soulpatch · 08/12/2016, 11:18 AM

I think anything that you put pressure is likely to crack. Never had issues with the ABS personally but then again I always have at least one section in my plumbing (sometimes hidden by using small pieces for joins) of flex tube so that the pipes are not stressing connections or bulkheads.

I would get your tank in first before you order schedule 80 just to measure and confirm as they are quite snug and some people have had issues but they "should" fit. That said I just dont see enough benefit in them as you should never be stressing a bulkhead to the point of cracking. Remember that is weakened glass there so you are also stressing the glass by tweaking bulkheads. Just not wise.

kzaveri19 · 08/12/2016, 11:46 AM

BTW .. What return pump have people upgraded to on their tanks? I am looking to swap out the Atman 3000 on my 66G soon.

CafeReef · 08/12/2016, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kzaveri19

BTW .. What return pump have people upgraded to on their tanks? I am looking to swap out the Atman 3000 on my 66G soon.

I went with the Jebao DCT6000 on mine, been pretty happy with it.

rtague · 08/12/2016, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulpatch

I think anything that you put pressure is likely to crack. Never had issues with the ABS personally but then again I always have at least one section in my plumbing (sometimes hidden by using small pieces for joins) of flex tube so that the pipes are not stressing connections or bulkheads.

I would get your tank in first before you order schedule 80 just to measure and confirm as they are quite snug and some people have had issues but they "should" fit. That said I just dont see enough benefit in them as you should never be stressing a bulkhead to the point of cracking. Remember that is weakened glass there so you are also stressing the glass by tweaking bulkheads. Just not wise.

Good advice,thank you.

soulpatch · 08/12/2016, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CafeReef

I went with the Jebao DCT6000 on mine, been pretty happy with it.

I have the DCT12000 running my skimmer and I am pretty impressed with it especially given the price. Good option for a DC pump to use as a return pump.

FOr my return I am running Fluval SP6. Obviously for a 66 you could get away with a smaller SP4 or such. I am pretty darn impressed with how quiet it is and the flow I get off of it.

I have an SP4 in my mixing station and have it sending water up 8 feet or so and across about 15-20 feet without much of an issue.

davocean · 08/12/2016, 12:40 PM

I'm using a tunze silence for my return on my 120g, 1073.02
I probably could have bumped a little more flow but I did not want to do more than the drain could handle.
I recently tried the fluval sp 2, it was super quiet, but I could see the water level drop after just a few days, meaning the output was noticeably less very early on, so I'm back to my silence.
I've been debating on going back to my old school fav which is an Eheim 1262 w/ a ball valve to adjust flow, maybe.
Either way just make sure your drains can handle the return volume

kzaveri19 · 08/12/2016, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CafeReef

I went with the Jebao DCT6000 on mine, been pretty happy with it.

Why DCT6000? I was thinking about the DCT4000. Would that be underpowered?

BTW, where did you buy it from?

Thanks
KZ

soulpatch · 08/13/2016, 12:57 PM

Always better to have to turn down a pump slightly (easy with DC pumps) then it is to have a pump running full bore all the time.

08/08/2016, 12:42 PM	#1102
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	1/4 is quite a gap to hope for the silicone to hold for a baffle. __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

08/08/2016, 01:05 PM	#1104
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	ish happens and glass is cheap. I would redo it right personally __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

08/08/2016, 01:37 PM	#1106
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	As you can see in my thread I am a bit OCD with even the innards of the stand so it would irk me. so long as it holds for you cool. __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

08/12/2016, 09:25 AM	#1111
jemw Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Star, Idaho Posts: 99	SCA ceramics Does anyone know if the ceramics supplied by SCA leach anything into the water? __________________ Jim _____ Red Sea Reefer 300 XL Current Tank Info: Red Sea 300XL

08/12/2016, 09:41 AM	#1113
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	all ceramic leach various forms of harmless metals including aluminum. It is how they are cast and created that the aluminum gets in there. But numerous triton tests and such of various media has yet to show anything dangerous that we know of. That said we put a ton of items in our tank that "leach" various items. Even still ceramic rings are better suited for FW IMHO. __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

08/08/2016, 12:27 PM	#1101
acer Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: pittsburgh,pa Posts: 2,612	Glad you guys are working thru the plumbing issues. Yes, I agree the PNP was not up to my specific standards. Hence- the custom build. Putting the glass baffles into my 40 breeder and 75 gallon sump/refugium setup. Guess what- when I measured for the baffles I only measured the 75 for width of baffles, and the 40 is about a 1/4 inch wider- NOOO!!! I think, whit the help of a friend( thanks Kevin) - we were able to get the baffles in and I wont know if the silicone will hold with that big of a gap until I run a test - in 6 days.

08/08/2016, 12:59 PM	#1103
acer Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: pittsburgh,pa Posts: 2,612	Yes- hence waiting a good long time for it to cure solid. Then test. - so well see. I am soo mad at myself- should have measured both tanks - the other baffles for the 75 gallon are perfect. = IDIOT!

08/08/2016, 01:22 PM	#1105
acer Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: pittsburgh,pa Posts: 2,612	If it was the only sump in the system - I would redo /pay for new baffles , but since it is a sump that just feeds to refugium as long as the last baffle holds - I am OK. If it does hold as is, then I will use 2 of the baffles offsetting them slightly (silicone them together that way) - then placing them in the tank so they will hold. If the bubble plate baffle leaks a bit - no biggie.

08/08/2016, 02:34 PM	#1107
acer Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: pittsburgh,pa Posts: 2,612	Ya- I am more into function than how it looks. Detail oriented- but NOT OCD.

08/11/2016, 05:47 PM	#1108
tassy Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 136	Is anyone using the ceramic beads that were supplied with the sump? If so did you leave them in the bag they came in? I'm already going to use Marine pure and live rock do you think they're necessary? Or just another detritus trap. Thnx John

08/12/2016, 09:50 AM	#1114
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	I agree, no need for the ceramic media in our reefs, best for FW __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/12/2016, 09:54 AM	#1115
rtague Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 376	Will the schedule 80 bulkheads from brs fit the 50 cube drain and return?

08/12/2016, 10:12 AM	#1116
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	they are a bit tight but work. No need to go to schedule 80 for the bulkheads though. Go with their regular ABS ones. __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

08/12/2016, 11:14 AM	#1117
rtague Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 376	Thanks Soulpatch,it's just that I've read that the abs have a tendency to crack and that the schedule 80 are much more durable,what do you think?

08/12/2016, 11:18 AM	#1118
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	I think anything that you put pressure is likely to crack. Never had issues with the ABS personally but then again I always have at least one section in my plumbing (sometimes hidden by using small pieces for joins) of flex tube so that the pipes are not stressing connections or bulkheads. I would get your tank in first before you order schedule 80 just to measure and confirm as they are quite snug and some people have had issues but they "should" fit. That said I just dont see enough benefit in them as you should never be stressing a bulkhead to the point of cracking. Remember that is weakened glass there so you are also stressing the glass by tweaking bulkheads. Just not wise. __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

08/12/2016, 11:46 AM	#1119
kzaveri19 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 143	BTW .. What return pump have people upgraded to on their tanks? I am looking to swap out the Atman 3000 on my 66G soon. __________________ 66g SCA Build - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24602969

08/12/2016, 12:40 PM	#1123
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	I'm using a tunze silence for my return on my 120g, 1073.02 I probably could have bumped a little more flow but I did not want to do more than the drain could handle. I recently tried the fluval sp 2, it was super quiet, but I could see the water level drop after just a few days, meaning the output was noticeably less very early on, so I'm back to my silence. I've been debating on going back to my old school fav which is an Eheim 1262 w/ a ball valve to adjust flow, maybe. Either way just make sure your drains can handle the return volume __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

08/13/2016, 12:57 PM	#1125
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	Always better to have to turn down a pump slightly (easy with DC pumps) then it is to have a pump running full bore all the time. __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.