The T5 Q&a Thread - split

[tegee]

Originally Posted by shred5

Premium aquatics or Reefgeek sells them. They are the general electric bulbs.

+1....and both very good resources as well for T5 lighting. Can't go wrong with either one.

HTH

[jacob.morgan78]

Thanks for the help!!

I didn't know they were going to be $15 apiece though plus shipping...

[shred5]

Originally Posted by jacob.morgan78

Thanks for the help!!

I didn't know they were going to be $15 apiece though plus shipping...

Here is a hint on this lamp.

Since its a Ge bulb and its the only one you are ordering you might be able to get them local at either a electrical or lighting supply store. Also you can save a few bucks on these there.

They are like 8 or 9 dollars at online lighting supply places elightbulbs.com or topbulb.

Sometimes are listed under grow lamps or bulbs so you might try your local garden center.

[The Grim Reefer]

Any 6500K T5 lamp will be fine. I seriously doubt there is more than one mass produced lamp out there anyway whether it's called GE, Phillips or Osram

[ati70cutlass]

GRIM<
I just got my leds ordered that i had talked to you about. i have a tek 8x54 going on a 75. i am using 4 blue +, 1 purple +, and 1 ge6500. so i have 2 slots for cree 3w RBs ... i wasnt sure which row would be best for overall coverage and best intensity for the t5s.. i am thinking the 3 and 6 but its just a guess... please let me know when you get time.

if anyone has a bulb set up similar pleae post the pic thanks,.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by shred5

Here is a hint on this lamp.

Since its a Ge bulb and its the only one you are ordering you might be able to get them local at either a electrical or lighting supply store. Also you can save a few bucks on these there.

They are like 8 or 9 dollars at online lighting supply places elightbulbs.com or topbulb.

Sometimes are listed under grow lamps or bulbs so you might try your local garden center.

If your going to a lightinging supply house GE also used to make a 5,000K bulb that had a CRI of 100 the highest of any bulb and it gave off a very pure white light thios bulb was designed mainly for clothing stores to show the true color of fabrics. They also made a TriPhosperious 7,200 K bulb which was slightly bluer than the 6,500K.

[TropTrea]

Thank you at least someone here does agree with me. I have read numerious articals on coral lighting by various marine biologist and almost all point out that lighting requirements varry by the different corals. The shalloer corals cannot flourish in deeper water because they receive too much blue compared to other colors in the spectrum. Simular deep water corals are very sensative to excessive red light especialy 685 nm which will quickly bleach them ot in excess.

Also the florescence of the corals is very light dependent on specific light frequencies. Generaly the floreseence is caused by absorbing light of one frequency and then retransmitting it at a longe wave lenght usualy 10 to 70 nm longer in wave lenght. Sure if you have florescent blues and aqua's they mainly need shorter wave lenght blue light but when you get to the florescent reds and yellows the shorter wave lenghts they need are in the green range.

Originally Posted by shred5

Not for sps.

Most good t-5 bulbs have enough par already to grow corals. But t-5 lighting is a narrower spectrum of lighting than halides. Reds, green and yellow are also needed for best growth and color in sps versus softies. Also par is not just in the blue spectrum. Running just blue and white bulbs does not cut it for sps. I have found red to be supper important. Most Sps corals come from shallower water and are exposed to a more broad spectrum of light compared to deeper water corals which get mainly blue. See Dana Riddles articles on coral pigmentation and colors for more info.

The 6500 bulb is a good to add parts of the other spectrum missing.

[swissgaurd]

ive got a 6 bulb sunpower fixture adapter with various voltage settings for the fans,can someone tell me what the voltage setting should be

it shows
3,4.5, 6, 7.5 , 9, 12

thanks

vic

[aqua80]

Originally Posted by swissgaurd

ive got a 6 bulb sunpower fixture adapter with various voltage settings for the fans,can someone tell me what the voltage setting should be

it shows
3,4.5, 6, 7.5 , 9, 12

thanks

vic

they recommend 7.5v or 9v, but the goal here is to have the right operating temperature for good par production and longevity of the bulbs so it depends on the ambient temperature...

here is what they told me by mail :

Here's is what we recommend:
1. The side with the stamp at the bulb should always be mounted over the
holes cut in the fixture housing.(power cord side)
2. The fan setting should be about 7.5 or 9V to produce an air temperature
of about 40-50 C°.

HTH

simon

[swissgaurd]

thanks simon
so ill choose 9 volts then

vic

[aqua80]

No problem vic !
I run at 7.5v in winter (ambiant temp. around 20 celcius) and plan to up to 9v in hot summer days.
the fans are quieter at 7.5v !

simon

[mgould73]

Hi I have a Aquatinics TX5 36" fixture and I have been trying several bulb combos and have been going back and forth on 2 combos I like best.

#1. Front to back
Blue+
Aquablue Special
Purple Plus
Blue Plus
Aquablue Special

#2. Front to back
Blue+
Aquablue Special
Purple Plus
Blue Plus
Blue Plus

#1 seems to brighten up the tank, but its just a tad to WHITE, and i mean just a little. On the other Hand #2 combo is very blue with the 3 blue +, Purple and the Aquablue. Ive tried the #2 combo with the 3 Blue+ by swapping out the aquablue and putting in a 6500k, but didnt like it.

I want to be able to cover the spectrum and to be pleasing to the eye as well. My only other suggestion woud be to try to replace the Aquablue specials with 2x KZ New generations which are slightly bluer and may look good in the #1 combo.

RT Party, Grim? Any sugestions?

Also the tank is a 57g RImless 36x18x21, fixture sits right on top of the tank. Would I be able to keep Clams wuth this light and say my #1 combo? I have about a 2" sandbed so figure 19" depth.

Thanks!

[iluvclowns]

hey grim sorry to bother you again, last time for sure. it just so happen that the 8 bulb fixture is a no go. therefore i have to use the 6 bulb. can you please tell me what the 6 bulb equivalent of this combo front to back:
ATI blue plus
KZ NG coral light
KZ fiji Purple
ATI aquablue spezial
KZ NG coral light
ATI blue plus
ATI aquablue spezial
ATI actinic blue
KZ NG Coral light
ATI blue plus

Thanks again sir.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally Posted by ati70cutlass

GRIM<
I just got my leds ordered that i had talked to you about. i have a tek 8x54 going on a 75. i am using 4 blue +, 1 purple +, and 1 ge6500. so i have 2 slots for cree 3w RBs ... i wasnt sure which row would be best for overall coverage and best intensity for the t5s.. i am thinking the 3 and 6 but its just a guess... please let me know when you get time.

if anyone has a bulb set up similar pleae post the pic thanks,.

Sounds right but pull one of the lamps and fire it up to make sure those two are one the same ballast.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally Posted by aqua80

No problem vic !
I run at 7.5v in winter (ambiant temp. around 20 celcius) and plan to up to 9v in hot summer days.
the fans are quieter at 7.5v !

simon

^^^ This

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally Posted by mgould73

Hi I have a Aquatinics TX5 36" fixture and I have been trying several bulb combos and have been going back and forth on 2 combos I like best.

#1. Front to back
Blue+
Aquablue Special
Purple Plus
Blue Plus
Aquablue Special

#2. Front to back
Blue+
Aquablue Special
Purple Plus
Blue Plus
Blue Plus

#1 seems to brighten up the tank, but its just a tad to WHITE, and i mean just a little. On the other Hand #2 combo is very blue with the 3 blue +, Purple and the Aquablue. Ive tried the #2 combo with the 3 Blue+ by swapping out the aquablue and putting in a 6500k, but didnt like it.

I want to be able to cover the spectrum and to be pleasing to the eye as well. My only other suggestion woud be to try to replace the Aquablue specials with 2x KZ New generations which are slightly bluer and may look good in the #1 combo.

RT Party, Grim? Any sugestions?

Also the tank is a 57g RImless 36x18x21, fixture sits right on top of the tank. Would I be able to keep Clams wuth this light and say my #1 combo? I have about a 2" sandbed so figure 19" depth.

Thanks!

Add a KZ new gen to the second setup in place of the Blue Plus in the 4th slot

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally Posted by iluvclowns

hey grim sorry to bother you again, last time for sure. it just so happen that the 8 bulb fixture is a no go. therefore i have to use the 6 bulb. can you please tell me what the 6 bulb equivalent of this combo front to back:
ATI blue plus
KZ NG coral light
KZ fiji Purple
ATI aquablue spezial
KZ NG coral light
ATI blue plus
ATI aquablue spezial
ATI actinic blue
KZ NG Coral light
ATI blue plus

4 ati blue plus, 1 purple plus and a aquablue

Thanks again sir.

[tegee]

Originally Posted by aqua80

No problem vic !
I run at 7.5v in winter (ambiant temp. around 20 celcius) and plan to up to 9v in hot summer days.
the fans are quieter at 7.5v !

simon

So, if I am reading this right....I can run my 24" 6-bulb ATI PM at 7.5v in the winter months to keep the noise down and run it at 9v in the hotter seasons to cool the bulbs properly?

Also, I did not know about the "stamp" needed to be on the side of the fixture where the vents are located. Does it make that much of a difference? My vents are located on the far right of the ATI PM opposite the power cords.

Very good info and if anyone can please clarify so I run my fixture and bulbs properly that would be great.

Many thanks.......

[aqua80]

Originally Posted by tegee

So, if I am reading this right....I can run my 24" 6-bulb ATI PM at 7.5v in the winter months to keep the noise down and run it at 9v in the hotter seasons to cool the bulbs properly?

yes

Also, I did not know about the "stamp" needed to be on the side of the fixture where the vents are located. Does it make that much of a difference? My vents are located on the far right of the ATI PM opposite the power cords.

Very good info and if anyone can please clarify so I run my fixture and bulbs properly that would be great.

Many thanks.......

there are two series of vents holes in the ATI fixture :

- one series on the side of the fixture :



- and the other series is inside the fixture, under the bulbs, communicating with the ballasts, on the power cord side of the fixture



you want the stamps to be under the second series, that is power cord side...

[jacob.morgan78]

Originally Posted by shred5

Here is a hint on this lamp.

Since its a Ge bulb and its the only one you are ordering you might be able to get them local at either a electrical or lighting supply store. Also you can save a few bucks on these there.

They are like 8 or 9 dollars at online lighting supply places elightbulbs.com or topbulb.

Sometimes are listed under grow lamps or bulbs so you might try your local garden center.

Originally Posted by The Grim Reefer

Any 6500K T5 lamp will be fine. I seriously doubt there is more than one mass produced lamp out there anyway whether it's called GE, Phillips or Osram

Originally Posted by TropTrea

If your going to a lightinging supply house GE also used to make a 5,000K bulb that had a CRI of 100 the highest of any bulb and it gave off a very pure white light thios bulb was designed mainly for clothing stores to show the true color of fabrics. They also made a TriPhosperious 7,200 K bulb which was slightly bluer than the 6,500K.

Thanks! I'll take a look around and figure something out!

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by tegee

So, if I am reading this right....I can run my 24" 6-bulb ATI PM at 7.5v in the winter months to keep the noise down and run it at 9v in the hotter seasons to cool the bulbs properly?

Also, I did not know about the "stamp" needed to be on the side of the fixture where the vents are located. Does it make that much of a difference? My vents are located on the far right of the ATI PM opposite the power cords.

Very good info and if anyone can please clarify so I run my fixture and bulbs properly that would be great.

Many thanks.......

Having worked in the industry I will tell you that both ends of the bulbs are virtualy identical with the exception that only one end is stamped. It is generaly a good practice to align the stamping on the bulb away from the area you want to light up simply because the stamping decreases the light emitted through it. In my mind it is very minimal. Also as light is reflected back into the bulb at the point where it is stamped it can cause that point on the bulb to get slightly hotter than the rest of the bulb.
Unless there is some realy heavey stamping with a very absorbant black paint it I doubt that anyone would realy notice much difference on this. I actualy like to align the bulbs so I can see the markings on the bulbs without pulling them completely out.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally Posted by TropTrea

Having worked in the industry I will tell you that both ends of the bulbs are virtualy identical with the exception that only one end is stamped. It is generaly a good practice to align the stamping on the bulb away from the area you want to light up simply because the stamping decreases the light emitted through it. In my mind it is very minimal. Also as light is reflected back into the bulb at the point where it is stamped it can cause that point on the bulb to get slightly hotter than the rest of the bulb.
Unless there is some realy heavey stamping with a very absorbant black paint it I doubt that anyone would realy notice much difference on this. I actualy like to align the bulbs so I can see the markings on the bulbs without pulling them completely out.

??? Last I looked Giesemann, Aquascience and one other that escapes my mind right now have dedicated cold spots that should be cooled. It's really easy to tell if the lamp has one. One end of the lamp will not illuminate as close to it's metal endcap as the other. I took one apart to check it out and the filament on that end is mounted to an extended glass tube. It should be on the stamped end of the lamp and should be the end that is cooled. It's just a good habit to place all lamps like that because the manufactures aren't great about making design changes public.

[tegee]

Originally Posted by aqua80

yes



there are two series of vents holes in the ATI fixture :

- one series on the side of the fixture :



- and the other series is inside the fixture, under the bulbs, communicating with the ballasts, on the power cord side of the fixture



you want the stamps to be under the second series, that is power cord side...

Thank you very much for providing such a detailed explanation with the pics.

BTW: I noticed that you have the ATI PM 24" 8-bulb fixture on you 30" Cube. Is my 6-bulb ATI PM enough for a 24" Cube? And how high off the waterline do you have your fixture set at and how many hours per day do you run the entire 8-bulb setup?

Many thanks again.....

[Froggy]

My bulbs and bracket mount will be coming in tomorrow UPS for my new Tek 8 X 54 T5. This will be for my 120 gallon SPS dominant mixed reef. Any acclimation tips or hours to run all 8 bulbs. I am switching from two 175 watt Iwasaki halides ( decent PAR - 71 PPFD ) and two 54 Watt Blue Plus supplements. I currently run my lighting for 14 hrs, halides about 12 Hrs, and the T5s for 14.

I am thinking of going with a 12 hr lighting schedule with the Tek T5's and run 4 bulbs for 12 hrs and all 8 bulbs for 6 hrs to start for midday ( is this too much ?). I am going with all high PAR bulbs - 5 Blue plus , 2 Purple Plus, and 1 GE 6500.

The Tek will be mounted using the bracket legs and I have read different descriptions from a highest height of 7" or 8 1/2" depending on the site??? I plan on starting at the highest position either way and eventually settle at about 6" above the tank as I am not using the splash guard to help keep the bulbs cooler.

The dusk dawn will include 3 Blue plus and 1 Purple Plus. 2 more Blue Plus a Purple Plus and the GE 6500 will come on for the midday all 8 bulb lighting.

I would appreciate any recommendations for schedule and acclimation you can give

Thanks,
Joe

[aqua80]

Originally Posted by tegee

Thank you very much for providing such a detailed explanation with the pics.

you're welcome !

BTW: I noticed that you have the ATI PM 24" 8-bulb fixture on you 30" Cube. Is my 6-bulb ATI PM enough for a 24" Cube? And how high off the waterline do you have your fixture set at and how many hours per day do you run the entire 8-bulb setup?

just please note that I run T5HO since 2 weeks only, so take my words with a grain of salt !

I think your 6-bulbs PM is enough both for PAR and coverage...
you might try to raise the fixture is you feel you don't have the spread you want... (PAR meter helps here !)
here is what I get with mine at 5" over the waterline (4 blue+,2 sblue, 1 fiji purple and 1 coral light)



I plan to run all 8 bulbs on for about 6h per day, 6 bulbs for about an hour before and after the full intensity period and finally 2 bulbs only another hour before and after the 6 bulbs period...
so the fixture will run for about 10 hours...
but will see how the corals react...

and for now I'm still acclimating my corals to the new light...