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01/04/2015, 07:21 PM | #201 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 172
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I was on vacation for about 3 weeks. I had a house sitter but instead of relying on her abilities, I used my Reef Angel to monitor my tank. Two automatic feeders provided the food. My major issue was the ATO. Never make last minute changes to the code. ATO did not want to work. I was able to manually turn on the ATO pump from Germany whenever it was below 25%. 10 gal was enough for about 18 days. No major issues in the tank it seems like my wandering RBTA found a new location. |
01/13/2015, 10:29 AM | #202 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Now, I need to decide if I want to put the energy toward fixing/reinforcing the cabinet or building one from scratch! I can't wait to get water in the tank…the rock has been cured and fully cycled (fishless) using liquid ammonia (Dr Tims). |
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01/21/2015, 02:29 AM | #203 |
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 36
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can someone post pictures of the tank's silicone seams and overflow box.. i need more details before ordering one.. thanks.
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01/22/2015, 09:40 PM | #204 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 58
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80G System. I'm using two Jebao RW-15. Waiting on Premium Aquatics to get their Tropic Eden Reefflakes shipment in. It's a slow build, but I have learn to be patient,with this hobby.
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01/23/2015, 05:50 PM | #205 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 4
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Hello all,
I ordered an 80g setup back in November and received it this week. I had porcelain tile installed in the corner of the living room where the aquarium will sit so I don't have to mess with the setup when/if we replace the carpet in the room. I've assembled the stand and am wondering if I should leave the feet on or off. I'd think the weight would be better dispersed amongst the tile with the feet removed, however I suspect the cabinet doors will drag on the carpet if I remove the feet. Not sure if I should place a pad of some sort between the tile and stand or what. Maybe like a rubber stall mat like you can buy at Tractor Supply? Any advice from the forum? |
01/23/2015, 07:46 PM | #206 | |
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Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Onur |
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01/23/2015, 07:50 PM | #207 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 172
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I caught my Mexican Hermit Crab (1") eating the sand sifting starfish. Starfish moved to the sump, he is ok for now. A lot of activity in the tank.
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01/24/2015, 08:52 PM | #208 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 58
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01/25/2015, 05:06 AM | #209 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 4
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Quote:
I guess I'll just leave the feet on mine, too. My tile has a breaking strength of 500-750 lbs so the 6 feet should divvy up the weight well below those weights. I figured it would be best to have the weight on the entire bottom of the stand but guess I should put some trust in the SCA engineers. Hadn't read that anyone else had removed the feet. Probably over thinking it. |
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02/01/2015, 07:56 PM | #210 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 172
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02/01/2015, 07:58 PM | #211 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 172
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Side view. I am replacing my 1260 return pump with a DC 6000. I will also replace one of the mp10 with a mp40
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02/03/2015, 11:29 PM | #212 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 54
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66 gallon build
It has been slow build but I have been waiting for Reefledlabs Vega100 and they have been delayed. Since I live in California I thought a little steel reinfocment frame inside would make it a little more earthquake friendly. I also put a lip on the bottom and glued PVC sheet on the interior and sealed it with silicone. I changed out the bulkheads to US sizes and then used a true Durso pipe. Since I split the output flow and am diverting part of the return threw a carbon/phosphate chamber I upgraded the return pump to a Jebao 6000 DC pump. I also went with a sea sweep on the return, I am hoping it will give me enough circulation- will see. I broke down and went with the Apex controller it is getting pretty crowded in there. I would like to thank all the other poster on this thread they have been most helpful with my build. It passed its first wet test, It is pretty quiet until I increase the pump above 3/4.
Bill |
02/04/2015, 12:25 PM | #213 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,955
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Looking good!
I have ordered my 66gal. How long did it take you to get after you ordered it? I am very excited to get mine, get it plumbed, and to move everything into it!
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cheers, jent d-_-b Current Tank Info: 66gal = 32x24x20 |
02/04/2015, 12:33 PM | #214 |
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 22
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Sca 66
I too just joined the SCA owners club. I ordered mine on Monday and should have delivery by next Monday. This thread has helped a lot with various ideas. I"m sure come Monday I'll have tons of questions.
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02/04/2015, 05:54 PM | #215 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 54
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I picked mine up will call, was a 3 hour drive. I did have an issue with the silicone not being consistent, probably only cosmetic. There was no problem exchanging it just had to make the drive again.
Bill |
02/04/2015, 05:57 PM | #216 |
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 22
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I should get mine between Monday and Wednesday, unfortunately currently live in Illinois so no way to do a will call.
Anyone know if the drilled holes fit schedule 40 or 80 bulkheads? |
02/04/2015, 06:04 PM | #217 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 4
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Pardon my ignorance, but I need some help plumbing this bugger. I have the 80G setup and have a few questions ...
1. Bulkhead gaskets - I'm guessing that they go on the inside of the tank overflow between the flange and glass but am wondering why one side of the gasket is smooth and the other ribbed. Which side should be against the glass? 2. Standpipe and return pipe inside the overflow - do I just press those in? No adhesive or sealant of any kind? 3. Drain question - the flexible tubing supplied doesn't fit on the drain bulkhead, so I assume I'm to use the plastic elbow that was in the packaging? That seems to be a nice tight fit into the bulkhead but I'd guess you'd want some sort of adhesive/sealant on that to keep it from working it's way out. But if it's glued in place, I'd not be able to get the nut off the bulkhead if I ever needed to. Again, sorry for all the questions. I've never had a built in overflow before. Thanks in advance! |
02/04/2015, 08:32 PM | #218 | |
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Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,955
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Quote:
I plan to expand the 1/2in bulkead slightly so that I can fit a 3/4in ABS bulkhead.
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cheers, jent d-_-b Current Tank Info: 66gal = 32x24x20 |
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02/06/2015, 11:59 PM | #219 |
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Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 54
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I purchased the bulkheads supplied by Drs Foster and Smith they claim to be PVC and I glued them with PVC glue. Then you can use standard US fittings and hoses. Of cource you will need to build or buy a new Durso pipe, but this will allow you to oversize it witch they claim to be quieter.
Bill 18985**1" SLIP BULKHEAD KIT 18983**1/2" SLIP BULKHEAD KIT |
02/07/2015, 04:07 AM | #220 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 500
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Added a filter sock mount and sock, removed the filter floss / sponge mechanical filtration that was stock. Removed the additional bio-filter ceramic rings included.
Huge improvement overall.
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50g SCA Aquarium, build in progress. |
02/10/2015, 01:59 PM | #221 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,955
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I thought I would update everyone on my personal progress.
Yesterday my 66gal aquarium came in. Hopefully this weekend I will be doing the initial water testing. I am a little nervous that the overflow might leak because there is a 1 inch section on the sides of one of the glass pannels inside the overflow that appears like it has no silicone. If it does leak, I am hoping I can just easily fix it with a little silicone on the outside (thoughts?) I of course would never do that for the main tank, but since the overflow is not holding much load it seems like it should be enough? Besides that the silicone job looks amazing! I am very impressed! I plan to update this thread with LOTS of information. For one I want to include a photo guide on how to assemble the stand. While it seems pretty obvious, the instructions provided are no help. So I would like to provide some help towards that. However I am not assembling the stand quite yet. I am concerned by the MDF construction, so I am going to make some improvements. There are some portions on the sides of pannels where there is bare MDF. I am taking those sections and painting them with a black enamel paint. I am undecided if I only want to pain these with the enamel paint (which the MDF so far is sucking up like a sponge!). Or if I want to also apply some rustoleum neverwet. After that I plan to assemble the stand, and add some L brackets for some extra reinforcement. AFTER that I plan to make a bead of bathroom sealent around the base where the wood connects. Again to try and keep water from getting to the exposed sections of MDF. After that I am thinking I may spray the bottom half of the stand with rustoleum never wet. I know this will give it a white hazy look, but since it's _inside_ the stand, I feel like it may be worth the extra protection. I am undecided if I want to put plastic on the bottom of the stand or not. I am thinking I might, but I am also worried if water gets under it, it might just hold it in. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts! I know I am being paranoid about the MDF, but I rather be paranoid now, than see swelling later on after the tank is on it.
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cheers, jent d-_-b Current Tank Info: 66gal = 32x24x20 |
02/10/2015, 04:41 PM | #222 |
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White paint on the inside will be helpful, it will make seeing equipment and detritus much easier.
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50g SCA Aquarium, build in progress. Last edited by greaps; 02/10/2015 at 04:51 PM. |
02/10/2015, 05:57 PM | #223 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 54
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No you are not being paranoid you are being realistic. MDF when it becomes wet looses all of its structural integrety, it turns to mush. First solution is to seal it all around before you build it. In addition I would to provide a place to capture water and drain it, because face it accidents happen. Thirdly is to add structual integrity, it may hold it if nothing bumps into the tank, or natural events don't rock it.
What I did was glue some thin PVC sheeting into the frame and sealed the corners with silicone. In addition I put a lip on the front. You can also use PVC shower liner, this is available in most hardware stores and quite easaly to glue with PVC cement (you fold the corners and glue the overlapping parts) guaranteed not to leak. I also built a frame inside the box out of 3/4" angle iron and 1/2" square tubing- probably over the top, but what aspect of this hobby is not? Bill |
02/22/2015, 07:49 PM | #224 |
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Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 172
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A quick snapshot of my tank
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02/22/2015, 08:59 PM | #225 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,955
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Looks good OceanWolf!
You run into any new issues with the tank or anything? I have still been progressing with mine. I expanded the small bulkhead hole with a diamond bit so I could put a 3/4in ABS bulkhead through it. I am still working on getting all the plumbing worked out, but it's coming together nicely. I also re-arranged the sump slightly. I took out the two dividers on the right and put the return pump in the middle. I then siliconed the large glass piece on the left in so that I could have more water volume for my fuge. I also started filling mine with RO. No leaks, and so far looking good. If everything goes smoothly I will have the plumbing finished on Monday, and maybe running the water through the pipes on Tuesday. Salt on Wed (assuming I am lucky and there are no leaks!). It's going to move fast after that, since I already have the rocks cured in a 29gal, and even some corals in there!
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cheers, jent d-_-b Current Tank Info: 66gal = 32x24x20 |
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