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Unread 03/08/2009, 05:37 PM   #401
cherubfish pair
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My new sump. The stringy stuff is CPR's biobale which I'll probably throw away.



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Unread 03/08/2009, 06:22 PM   #402
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Mods for the sump could include:

New hole in drip box lid to accommodate G3's gate valve assembly output.
Gutter guard to cover opening between the sump's two sides. This will keep chaeto on the refugium side of sump.
And of course the bulkhead for the return pump (external).


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Unread 03/08/2009, 10:32 PM   #403
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Got some money for my birfday that's supposed to be for a new camera. And since I'm not saving up for a wavemaker right now, I think I'll add to the bd money with some saved up money and get something with a decent flash. Not like the camera I'm using now.

Anybody know anything about camera flashes?


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Unread 03/09/2009, 10:29 PM   #404
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Looking for a new camera. Old one's pics are too dark. What should I be looking for?
Quote:
Originally posted by TitusvileSurfer
You should be changing your exposure lol...that is very correctable even for simi-recent full auto cameras...or even cell phone cameras.



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Unread 03/10/2009, 09:52 PM   #405
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This is a camera at Walmart. Doesn't have AF Illuminator though.



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Unread 03/15/2009, 06:25 PM   #406
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I'm debating whether or not to buy a digital camera buyer's guide. The thing is $15 at the grocery store magazine rack.


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Unread 03/22/2009, 06:24 PM   #407
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I was trying to shorten the drain assembly on the fragging tank so I could fit the waste water container underneath. I was going to cut the pipe shorter with this tool and just reglue it. Because the pipe was short it didn't have enough integrity and it broke and cracked. Now I need a new plumbing assembly. I've got all the parts but the bulkhead fitting. I'll cut the pipe short enough this time before I glue it. (Bottom photo shows the break and crack.)






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Last edited by dc; 04/27/2009 at 09:51 PM.
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Unread 03/24/2009, 09:09 PM   #408
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I'm going to need my viper light on my sump/fuge eventually so I'm thinking of getting a DIY canopy from nanotuners.com. Here's the: Nanocustoms Factory Retroâ„¢ 3.18 for Nanocube 6 (54w). It looks like a lot of fun to build, should be enough light and I can put all equipment underneath.



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Unread 03/24/2009, 09:13 PM   #409
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^^^Here's the link: http://www.nanotuners.com/product_in...ccba6897a54a02


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Unread 03/26/2009, 06:12 PM   #410
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What are some good books on sps?


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Unread 03/26/2009, 07:11 PM   #411
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Quote:
Originally posted by dfs/la2

cherubfish pair,

Thank you for your post. We are sorry to hear that you have been experiencing difficulties with your Hanna tester. To better assist you with troubleshooting the unit, we recommend directly calling our Technical Support Department at 1-800-381-7179 ext 225.

Mike S.
Technical Support
Drs. Foster and Smith
I called DRS on this tester and they didn't know what could be done so they gave me the number to Hanna Instruments. Hanna said the warranty has expired and said couldn't be fixed anyway. This is the first time any electronic equipment has gone bad on me. From now on I'll test electronics before the warranties expire.


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Unread 03/26/2009, 08:34 PM   #412
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I don't think I've shown this picture yet. Got it same time as sump. It's a CO2 solenoid that controls CO2 injection into a calcium reactor.



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Unread 03/27/2009, 07:17 PM   #413
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I emailed Nick at nanocustoms.com and here is the conversation:

Quote:
Dear folks, I am interested in DIY 3.18 for Nanocube 6. What kind of tools will I need to build it? I am using a viper light on my NC6 right now, but I will need that light soon for a refugium that is connected to a different tank. I would like to use the 3.18 modified tank to quarantine 1 or 2 dwarf moray eels. It is said that they are escape artists and will slide through the smallest of holes. What would it take to make a fish-saver on a 3.18 NC6? I don't know how I would begin to go about this. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Quote:
Mitch, Tools you will need are things like: philips head screwdriver, wire cutters, wire crimpers, small file (round is better) or dremel if you have one, power drill (with 1/2â€, 3/4†and 1/8†drill bit). The install instructions are below. The only difference is that now our wire supplier changed up some of the individual wire colors in the “gray cable†we use and we haven’t had a chance to upgrade the instructions just yet. Everything else should be the same.

http://www.nanocustoms.com/support/318DX.pdf

If you run with a canopy you shouldn’t have to worry much about things getting out of the tank. If you’re concerned with animals getting into the back chamber section of the tank you may want to consider attaching some weather stripping to the bottom of the splashguard where it meets the false rear wall to help keep a seal there and prevent things from getting into the back.

Nick Driver
Nanotuners Customer Care
info@nanotuners.com



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Unread 04/06/2009, 05:47 PM   #414
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Haven't posted in 10 days. First pic, pump and plumbing for a closed loop on salt mixing tank. This is the pump I had on my 10 gallon for a couple of years before I tore it down for the move. I added the vinyl hose, insert pieces and a ball valve. Now I have to drill holes for the bulkhead fittings which will be used for an intake with a screen strainer and the other hole will be for the pump's return with a Hydor Flo attached which will circulate water to mix in the synthetic sea salt.

Second picture is my new Black & Decker hand held jigsaw.




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Unread 04/10/2009, 10:32 PM   #415
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Quote:
Originally posted by cherubfish pair
I was saving up for this. It would have been 3 installments with Bill-Me-Later.

I think I'm giving up on this. It's way too much $$. Someone will come along and do something very similar at want half as much for it. Besides, my controller has a wavemaker on it.
This looks much better and a hundred bucks cheaper. This is very much the same thing as the MP20 and a hundred bucks cheaper also. It's the MP10, the nano vortech and it makes a lot more sense than the Oceansmotions I had my heart set on....and then again I might use two maxi-jet 1200s on my ReefKeeper wavemaker.



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Unread 04/12/2009, 07:32 PM   #416
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I removed half of my stand top to install my chauvet power panel (top photo). I unlocked the cams on a front vertical board to take it outside to jigsaw a corner out. I put the front and top boards back and screwed the power panel into place.






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Last edited by dc; 04/27/2009 at 09:51 PM.
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Unread 04/13/2009, 07:45 PM   #417
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Drilled bulkheads (holes) in the 10 gallon salt mixing tank for a closed loop ( the holes were sized for 1/2 inch double threaded b. fittings.) The second picture shows the b. fittings installed in their place.






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Unread 04/13/2009, 08:09 PM   #418
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Quote:
Originally posted by cherubfish pair
Mag Drive 2 pump and plumbing for a closed loop on salt mixing tank. This is the pump I had on my 10 gallon for a couple of years before I tore it down for the move. I added the vinyl hose, insert pieces and a ball valve. Now I have to drill holes for the bulkhead fittings which will be used for an intake with a screen strainer and the other hole will be for the pump's return with a Hydor Flo attached which will circulate water to mix in the synthetic sea salt.
In above I secured the pump assembly onto the b. fittings, then filled the tank. I immediately had several leaks. Drained water, disconnected plumbing, put teflon tape on all male pipe threads and clamped all hoses around the inserts with plastic hose clamps. Connected all plumbing hand tight again, filled tank and got a small gusher that looked to be from the bottom of the pump. Confused, I drained the water again, disconnected plumbing from the b. fittings and more confusion. The leak was NOT coming from any of the pipe or hose connections. Could be a crack in pump housing? Or, around pump impeller housing?

Removed impeller housing. The screws were all tight so what's going on? Picture is pump with impeller cover off.



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Unread 04/19/2009, 05:29 PM   #419
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I scraped crud off of impeller housing, put thing back together and no leaks.

Assembled a Hydor Flo water deflector and screwed it into a fitting. Put a screen intake on intake side of closed loop, bottom pic.




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Unread 04/19/2009, 05:33 PM   #420
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Quote:
Originally posted by cherubfish pair
Dear Moderator, I just made a terrible discovery. Firefox is my default web browser and when I post to my awesome build thread I usually embed two pictures, one right on top of the other. For some reason I used MS InternetExplorer the other day and noticed a lot of these two picture posts to be messed up, but just when I viewed them with Internet Explorer. Viewed with Firefox there's nothing wrong. This is a 17 page build and stock thread and I have a lot of subscribers to it. I want my subscribers that use IE to see it the way it's supposed to be viewed. What can you do about it?



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Unread 04/28/2009, 07:01 PM   #421
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Debi the moderator fixed all the messed up posts that had pictures crosswise instead of vertical.


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Unread 05/02/2009, 05:25 PM   #422
cherubfish pair
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Well, my build and stock thread is back in the Nano Reef forum after two months in the SPS Keeper's forum. During the time there I sought basic information about sps and only got 2 posts. Both by the same member. I guess those guys are to busy to give advice to sps newbies.

I also changed my log thread name a little, again. All my plans are the same except I'm switching to a bigger display tank and a bigger eel.


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Unread 05/03/2009, 04:32 PM   #423
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Tested my ASM G3 skimmer for leaks. I'm using an acrylic tank as a "catch pan" because it's normal for these skimmers to leak. The tank still has its saran wrap on and there wasn't a single drop that leaked after running the skimmer's recirculating pump full bore.



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Unread 05/03/2009, 07:35 PM   #424
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I just switched powerheads in my frag tank from a Hydor Nano to a Maxi-Jet 1200. The hydor wasn't strong enough, couldn't be put on my ReefKeeper wavemaker and RK night mode because the impeller sometimes "catched" and wouldn't go. The 1200 is on a sure-grip magnet holder which is infinately better than suction cups. I'll get a picture tomorrow of the new setup.


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Unread 05/05/2009, 09:35 PM   #425
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Took the stock overflow from my all-in-one, drilled a hole through it, cliped a "tooth" in the "drain screen" and fastened them together with a nylon screw. This raised the water level high enough to hide the water's surface within the rim.



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