New fish issues with upgraded tank. Please help!

ChrisKirkland · 09/05/2008, 08:36 AM

Ok so if you have read my last thread about my tang issues, I would like to say that every fish I have acclamated to this new tank is having the same issue (which is living). I have checked all water parameters and everything shows up correct. Here are the parameters:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrates: 5(ish)
Nitrites: 0
Calcium: 460ppm
dKH: 9
Copper: 0ppm
Salinity: 1.025
Temp.: 79
Phosphates: .25
PH: 8.2

Anything else I should test for? Any suggestions??

jrdoan · 09/05/2008, 01:08 PM

Ok Chris as a keeper of tangs myself lets see if I can offer some help at all. Where did the new tank come from? Has it ever been used to with a copper treatment? ALthough after I tracked down your last post I would think 2-48 hours is a bit quick but who knows tangs are very fragile. To test if you have a copper issue get a polyfilter. Sk8er can help with this look around on the site he is the dude with the cat avatar (very helpful very friendly) Next when you say upgraded tank what exactly do you mean? Did you go from a 30 to a 110 or something? The reson I am asking is that you may be having a new cycle if you added alot of new LR or Live sand.. especally if you put your new sand on top of your sand from your old tank. I know a new and bigger tank require more stuff but maybe the new stuff is the problem. The other totally out in left field thing might be a hitchhiker on some new LR... again WIthout knowing what upgrade means it's hard to figure out..

jrdoan · 09/05/2008, 01:12 PM

sorry about the double post but I am really trying to help you out here

.... did you upgrade your pumps when you got a bigger tank. Could there be not enough movement and you are having an oxygen issue?? again sorry for the double post I thought of it right as i posted my last message.

ChrisKirkland · 09/06/2008, 09:12 AM

Thats ok I upgrade the size of the tank from a 55 to a 110. I used all of the same equipment and have two huge seios moving water. I also used the same live rock and the same sand from my 55. did however upgrade my skimmer which works like a charm after fixing it. I have already tested for copper and there is no copper present. Tank has had no copper used in it.

ChrisKirkland · 09/06/2008, 10:21 AM

Bump

jrdoan · 09/06/2008, 10:41 AM

Hmmmmm Stumped.... I will mull this over for a bit but it seems to be getting passed what I can offer...... I just dont' know...

ChrisKirkland · 09/07/2008, 05:34 PM

Anybody else.

otrlynn · 09/07/2008, 08:15 PM

I see that you say that you used the same sand when you upgraded. I wonder if that could have released some toxic stuff into the water of the new tank. I would have expected that if that were the case, you'd have elevated nitrates. It seems like a lot of more experience people on here recommend ditching and replacing sand when moving or upgrading tanks. I'm a bit of a newbie myself, but maybe this response will get someone else thinking about the sand...

ChrisKirkland · 09/07/2008, 08:17 PM

My nitrates, nitrites are all zero ppm.

limitdown · 09/08/2008, 01:22 AM

Did you disturb a DSB during the move? That may have released hydrogen sulfide.

limitdown · 09/08/2008, 01:23 AM

oops, double post...

ChrisKirkland · 09/08/2008, 07:27 PM

Yes. How long would it take to get rid of the hydrogen sulfide?

limitdown · 09/08/2008, 09:07 PM

I would change out 50%+ of the water first.
Ways to remove hydrogen sulfide
From Dr.Holmes-Farley
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-12/rhf/index.php

8. If an anoxic sand bed needs to be removed from a reef aquarium, and there are organisms that cannot be relocated out of harms way, the following precautions may be useful based on the principles detailed in previous sections, although I've not tested any to see how effective they are:

A. Remove delicate organisms from the tank system, if possible.
B. Perform the change when the lights are as bright as possible, preferably near the end of the light cycle. The lights drive the O2 concentration higher, speeding the oxidative removal of hydrogen sulfide, and the light itself will catalyze the oxidation of H2S.
C. Maximize aeration. A high oxygen level drives hydrogen sulfide oxidation, and high aeration will drive some off as volatile H2S gas.
D. Add an iron supplement to help catalyze oxidation of hydrogen sulfide and the precipitation of ferrous and/or ferric sulfide. Use one chelated to an organic; either ferrous or ferric iron will work.
E. Pass the water over iron oxide/hydroxide (GFO) to convert hydrogen sulfide to elemental sulfur.
F. Pass the water over activated carbon, which may bind some sulfide, and may also catalyze the oxidation. If forced to choose between carbon and GFO, I'd pick the GFO media.

09/05/2008, 08:36 AM	#1
ChrisKirkland Reef and Coral Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lexington, Ky. Posts: 1,739	New fish issues with upgraded tank. Please help! Ok so if you have read my last thread about my tang issues, I would like to say that every fish I have acclamated to this new tank is having the same issue (which is living). I have checked all water parameters and everything shows up correct. Here are the parameters: Ammonia: 0 Nitrates: 5(ish) Nitrites: 0 Calcium: 460ppm dKH: 9 Copper: 0ppm Salinity: 1.025 Temp.: 79 Phosphates: .25 PH: 8.2 Anything else I should test for? Any suggestions?? __________________ Chris Kirkland Reef Nerd. Current Tank Info: Getting back into the hobby.

09/06/2008, 09:12 AM	#4
ChrisKirkland Reef and Coral Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lexington, Ky. Posts: 1,739	Thats ok I upgrade the size of the tank from a 55 to a 110. I used all of the same equipment and have two huge seios moving water. I also used the same live rock and the same sand from my 55. did however upgrade my skimmer which works like a charm after fixing it. I have already tested for copper and there is no copper present. Tank has had no copper used in it. __________________ Chris Kirkland Reef Nerd. Current Tank Info: Getting back into the hobby.

09/06/2008, 10:21 AM	#5
ChrisKirkland Reef and Coral Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lexington, Ky. Posts: 1,739	Bump __________________ Chris Kirkland Reef Nerd. Current Tank Info: Getting back into the hobby.

09/07/2008, 05:34 PM	#7
ChrisKirkland Reef and Coral Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lexington, Ky. Posts: 1,739	Anybody else. __________________ Chris Kirkland Reef Nerd. Current Tank Info: Getting back into the hobby.

09/07/2008, 08:15 PM	#8
otrlynn Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Chester County PA Posts: 1,508	I see that you say that you used the same sand when you upgraded. I wonder if that could have released some toxic stuff into the water of the new tank. I would have expected that if that were the case, you'd have elevated nitrates. It seems like a lot of more experience people on here recommend ditching and replacing sand when moving or upgrading tanks. I'm a bit of a newbie myself, but maybe this response will get someone else thinking about the sand... __________________ Lynn 1 horse, 1 dog, 2 cats, small pond with a few koi. The fish tank is gone.

09/05/2008, 01:08 PM	#2
jrdoan Registered Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Baltimore MD Posts: 68	Ok Chris as a keeper of tangs myself lets see if I can offer some help at all. Where did the new tank come from? Has it ever been used to with a copper treatment? ALthough after I tracked down your last post I would think 2-48 hours is a bit quick but who knows tangs are very fragile. To test if you have a copper issue get a polyfilter. Sk8er can help with this look around on the site he is the dude with the cat avatar (very helpful very friendly) Next when you say upgraded tank what exactly do you mean? Did you go from a 30 to a 110 or something? The reson I am asking is that you may be having a new cycle if you added alot of new LR or Live sand.. especally if you put your new sand on top of your sand from your old tank. I know a new and bigger tank require more stuff but maybe the new stuff is the problem. The other totally out in left field thing might be a hitchhiker on some new LR... again WIthout knowing what upgrade means it's hard to figure out..

09/05/2008, 01:12 PM	#3
jrdoan Registered Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Baltimore MD Posts: 68	sorry about the double post but I am really trying to help you out here .... did you upgrade your pumps when you got a bigger tank. Could there be not enough movement and you are having an oxygen issue?? again sorry for the double post I thought of it right as i posted my last message.

09/06/2008, 10:41 AM	#6
jrdoan Registered Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Baltimore MD Posts: 68	Hmmmmm Stumped.... I will mull this over for a bit but it seems to be getting passed what I can offer...... I just dont' know...

09/07/2008, 08:17 PM	#9
ChrisKirkland Reef and Coral Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lexington, Ky. Posts: 1,739	My nitrates, nitrites are all zero ppm. __________________ Chris Kirkland Reef Nerd. Current Tank Info: Getting back into the hobby.

09/08/2008, 01:22 AM	#10
limitdown Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 640	Did you disturb a DSB during the move? That may have released hydrogen sulfide. __________________ All I want for Christmas is to stay employed... Current Tank Info: 200g display + 50g sump FO

09/08/2008, 01:23 AM	#11
limitdown Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 640	oops, double post... __________________ All I want for Christmas is to stay employed... Current Tank Info: 200g display + 50g sump FO

09/08/2008, 07:27 PM	#12
ChrisKirkland Reef and Coral Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Lexington, Ky. Posts: 1,739	Yes. How long would it take to get rid of the hydrogen sulfide? __________________ Chris Kirkland Reef Nerd. Current Tank Info: Getting back into the hobby.

09/08/2008, 09:07 PM	#13
limitdown Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 640	I would change out 50%+ of the water first. Ways to remove hydrogen sulfide From Dr.Holmes-Farley http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-12/rhf/index.php 8. If an anoxic sand bed needs to be removed from a reef aquarium, and there are organisms that cannot be relocated out of harms way, the following precautions may be useful based on the principles detailed in previous sections, although I've not tested any to see how effective they are: A. Remove delicate organisms from the tank system, if possible. B. Perform the change when the lights are as bright as possible, preferably near the end of the light cycle. The lights drive the O2 concentration higher, speeding the oxidative removal of hydrogen sulfide, and the light itself will catalyze the oxidation of H2S. C. Maximize aeration. A high oxygen level drives hydrogen sulfide oxidation, and high aeration will drive some off as volatile H2S gas. D. Add an iron supplement to help catalyze oxidation of hydrogen sulfide and the precipitation of ferrous and/or ferric sulfide. Use one chelated to an organic; either ferrous or ferric iron will work. E. Pass the water over iron oxide/hydroxide (GFO) to convert hydrogen sulfide to elemental sulfur. F. Pass the water over activated carbon, which may bind some sulfide, and may also catalyze the oxidation. If forced to choose between carbon and GFO, I'd pick the GFO media. __________________ All I want for Christmas is to stay employed... Current Tank Info: 200g display + 50g sump FO