RODI qestion

mitch303 · 01/24/2012, 01:42 AM

I have a question about my rodi system. I just recently moved to a new house and installed my unit right to the cooper pipe under my sink with the saddle valve it came with. I also put a ball valve/ shutoff valve in between the saddle valve and the unit so that i could shut it off, Otherwise it would constiously run. now when i run my unit the DI canister fills all the way up. at my last house i had it hooked to the faucet and the di canister would only fill up about 2 inches. what would cause this?

Mark Bianco · 01/24/2012, 06:12 AM

Water pressure is different. Does your RODI system have a pressure meter Generally speaking the optimal is about 60 to 70psi. after the RO section. Then again when is the last time you changed your DI resin, or flushed your membrane? Just a couple of thoughts and they are my opinions.

Hope that helps
Mark

disc1 · 01/24/2012, 09:49 AM

Or gravity. If the outlet for the clean water is higher up than the DI chamber vs. lower than the DI chamber makes a difference. So if it sat on the counter before and filled jugs on the floor and now sits close to the floor and fills jugs at the same level then that's the difference.

None of that makes any difference to your water quality out of it.

Donniegnzls · 01/24/2012, 09:49 AM

That is normal.

mitch303 · 01/24/2012, 10:31 PM

alright so something is going on with it it took me all day to fill a 5 gallon bucket the water is barely coming out of it its like a drip instead of a steady stream like it used to be. the tds meter is reading 2 ppm going into the di and 0 coming out the di canister was changed out about 4 months ago and still looks brand new. do i need a booster pump or something?

manchreef7 · 01/24/2012, 10:41 PM

I would say yes. You need a booster, and a ptessure gauge

Donniegnzls · 01/24/2012, 11:04 PM

I agree. Your presure is probably lower in your new place.

mitch303 · 01/25/2012, 12:55 AM

im thinking it might be i need to change the sediment filter and carbon cartridges. the psi gage for my well says its a little over 85 psi and the water that comes out of the sink its hooked to has pretty high pressure. I also had it hooked up with the faucet connector at this house before i moved it under the sink and it worked fine. I fillled up a 30 gallon trash can for n ew saltwater when i moved my tank to this house and it only took about 10 hours for that to fill up, my unit is 75gpd.

Would bad pre filters slow down pressure that much? I am going to getg a pressure gage for it and a flush kit and see where my psi is coming out of the sediment and carbon filters.

Donniegnzls · 01/25/2012, 10:09 AM

Absolutely. Especially on well water. I was going to mention in my previous post that the water at the new location could be dirtier and clog the filter. I would also recommend a flush kit for your RO unit. Sounds like your well water is pretty dirty and a flush kit could go a long way in extending the life of your RO membrane. Test your well waters TDS unfiltered. If it where me. I would change what filters your using to save some money. If you have 2 carbon blocks I would remove them and go with one high quality carbon block and 2 sediment filters. A 10 micron and then a 5 and then carbon. I would also do two DI’s. Spectra pure has the best DI. But test your raw water for TDS, chlorine, chloramines, phosphates, and then buy filters accordingly. If you are high in TDS but have 0 Chlorine and chloramines like I suspect I would go with the 2 sediment 1 carbon and 1 DI and a flush kit. My water is very high is chlorimines and phosphates so I run two carbon blocks and 2 DI's. I was producinging 0 TDS with 1 DI but my phosphates where still .16 comeing out. So I installed a second DI.

mitch303 · 01/25/2012, 02:24 PM

alright so i hooked up one of the sensors to my tds meter to the line that comes from my water line before it goes into the ro unit and my tds jumped to about 125ppm and started going down until it stopped at 94ppm and it pretty much stayed there +/- 1 ppm so does this mean the water from my house is 125 ppm or 94 ppm?

Donniegnzls · 01/25/2012, 03:26 PM

I would say 94 and even it were 125 that is still not bad. Try swapping the sediment filter and see if presure returns to normal. If not it is just low preasure.

DeathMagnetic · 01/25/2012, 03:34 PM

my incoming tds is around 150 so i dont think yours is that bad...

could be the temperature of the incoming water.. my understanding is that the colder the incoming water the less efficient the rodi will b...

hth

Joe

mitch303 · 01/25/2012, 03:50 PM

yea i was reading that colder water does affect production. so i turned the cold water on full blast and filled a bowl and stuck a temp probe in it and its in the low 50s. Pretty cold!

1DeR9_3Hy · 01/25/2012, 05:37 PM

If you can, add in 25 ft of whatever size ro tubing you are using then coil that 25 ft into a 5 gallon bucket with water and a tank heater in it. Cover the bucket, turn the heater up to 78 and periodicly fill the bucket up to keep it from running dry.

What this will do is pre heat the water heading into your RO/DI unit and get things closer to where they work best.

mitch303 · 01/25/2012, 07:32 PM

alright i will have to try that. I also just moved my unit its still hooked to the same sink but the room behind the sink is a big storage room so i ran the drain line and water supply line through the holes where the water lines come through the wall for the sink. i also mounted the unit on the wall so the di doesnt have to push the water up hill. i also plan on adding a float valve to one of my brute trashcans so i always have water now i have plenty of room to do this now that my unit is in the storage room. I did have to add about another 4-5 ft of hosing to the drain line and water supply line willl this affect performance?

DeathMagnetic · 01/25/2012, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitch303

I did have to add about another 4-5 ft of hosing to the drain line and water supply line willl this affect performance?

absolutely not

Buckeye Hydro · 01/26/2012, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitch303

I have a question about my rodi system. I just recently moved to a new house and installed my unit right to the cooper pipe under my sink with the saddle valve it came with.

A self-piercing needle valve is the last thing I would recommend to you if you're dealing with pressure issues.

Make sure you ran the "needle" all the way into your pipe to maximize the diameter of the pierced hole, and then make sure you have the "needle"
backed out of the hole.

Buckeye Hydro · 01/26/2012, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitch303

im thinking it might be i need to change the sediment filter and carbon cartridges. the psi gage for my well says its a little over 85 psi and the water that comes out of the sink its hooked to has pretty high pressure. I also had it hooked up with the faucet connector at this house before i moved it under the sink and it worked fine. I fillled up a 30 gallon trash can for n ew saltwater when i moved my tank to this house and it only took about 10 hours for that to fill up, my unit is 75gpd.

Would bad pre filters slow down pressure that much? I am going to getg a pressure gage for it and a flush kit and see where my psi is coming out of the sediment and carbon filters.

If you think you might end up getting a booster pump, get a liquid filled pressure gauge rather than a dry one.

Dirty prefilters are a very common cause of low pressure reaching the membrane.

Russ

01/24/2012, 01:42 AM	#1
mitch303 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 452	RODI qestion I have a question about my rodi system. I just recently moved to a new house and installed my unit right to the cooper pipe under my sink with the saddle valve it came with. I also put a ball valve/ shutoff valve in between the saddle valve and the unit so that i could shut it off, Otherwise it would constiously run. now when i run my unit the DI canister fills all the way up. at my last house i had it hooked to the faucet and the di canister would only fill up about 2 inches. what would cause this?

01/24/2012, 09:49 AM	#3
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	Or gravity. If the outlet for the clean water is higher up than the DI chamber vs. lower than the DI chamber makes a difference. So if it sat on the counter before and filled jugs on the floor and now sits close to the floor and fills jugs at the same level then that's the difference. None of that makes any difference to your water quality out of it. __________________ David Current Tank: Undergoing reconstruction...

01/25/2012, 05:37 PM	#14
1DeR9_3Hy Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 2,575	If you can, add in 25 ft of whatever size ro tubing you are using then coil that 25 ft into a 5 gallon bucket with water and a tank heater in it. Cover the bucket, turn the heater up to 78 and periodicly fill the bucket up to keep it from running dry. What this will do is pre heat the water heading into your RO/DI unit and get things closer to where they work best. __________________ I hope it never catches on, I like having the oldest tank on here and I don't have to worry about calcification, bio pellets, Vodka dosing, DSBs, Chaetomorpha (I don't even know what that is) Carbonite hardness and all of these other things many people worry about. If I had to think about all of that stuff I would get a stroke. My test kit came in a wooden box and the directions say to keep in a cool chariott. I throw some food in the tank, wave hello to the fish and go out with my wife and have a nice glass of merlot with dinner. Have a great day but most of all, have fun. -PaulB Current Tank Info: 27 Gallon DAS softy/fish reef

01/24/2012, 06:12 AM	#2
Mark Bianco In Memoriam Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Infinity and Beyond Posts: 2,445	Water pressure is different. Does your RODI system have a pressure meter Generally speaking the optimal is about 60 to 70psi. after the RO section. Then again when is the last time you changed your DI resin, or flushed your membrane? Just a couple of thoughts and they are my opinions. Hope that helps Mark

01/24/2012, 09:49 AM	#4
Donniegnzls Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 55	That is normal.

01/24/2012, 10:31 PM	#5
mitch303 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 452	alright so something is going on with it it took me all day to fill a 5 gallon bucket the water is barely coming out of it its like a drip instead of a steady stream like it used to be. the tds meter is reading 2 ppm going into the di and 0 coming out the di canister was changed out about 4 months ago and still looks brand new. do i need a booster pump or something?

01/24/2012, 10:41 PM	#6
manchreef7 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 36	I would say yes. You need a booster, and a ptessure gauge

01/24/2012, 11:04 PM	#7
Donniegnzls Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 55	I agree. Your presure is probably lower in your new place.

01/25/2012, 12:55 AM	#8
mitch303 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 452	im thinking it might be i need to change the sediment filter and carbon cartridges. the psi gage for my well says its a little over 85 psi and the water that comes out of the sink its hooked to has pretty high pressure. I also had it hooked up with the faucet connector at this house before i moved it under the sink and it worked fine. I fillled up a 30 gallon trash can for n ew saltwater when i moved my tank to this house and it only took about 10 hours for that to fill up, my unit is 75gpd. Would bad pre filters slow down pressure that much? I am going to getg a pressure gage for it and a flush kit and see where my psi is coming out of the sediment and carbon filters.

01/25/2012, 10:09 AM	#9
Donniegnzls Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 55	Absolutely. Especially on well water. I was going to mention in my previous post that the water at the new location could be dirtier and clog the filter. I would also recommend a flush kit for your RO unit. Sounds like your well water is pretty dirty and a flush kit could go a long way in extending the life of your RO membrane. Test your well waters TDS unfiltered. If it where me. I would change what filters your using to save some money. If you have 2 carbon blocks I would remove them and go with one high quality carbon block and 2 sediment filters. A 10 micron and then a 5 and then carbon. I would also do two DI’s. Spectra pure has the best DI. But test your raw water for TDS, chlorine, chloramines, phosphates, and then buy filters accordingly. If you are high in TDS but have 0 Chlorine and chloramines like I suspect I would go with the 2 sediment 1 carbon and 1 DI and a flush kit. My water is very high is chlorimines and phosphates so I run two carbon blocks and 2 DI's. I was producinging 0 TDS with 1 DI but my phosphates where still .16 comeing out. So I installed a second DI.

01/25/2012, 02:24 PM	#10
mitch303 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 452	alright so i hooked up one of the sensors to my tds meter to the line that comes from my water line before it goes into the ro unit and my tds jumped to about 125ppm and started going down until it stopped at 94ppm and it pretty much stayed there +/- 1 ppm so does this mean the water from my house is 125 ppm or 94 ppm?

01/25/2012, 03:26 PM	#11
Donniegnzls Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 55	I would say 94 and even it were 125 that is still not bad. Try swapping the sediment filter and see if presure returns to normal. If not it is just low preasure.

01/25/2012, 03:34 PM	#12
DeathMagnetic Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 234	my incoming tds is around 150 so i dont think yours is that bad... could be the temperature of the incoming water.. my understanding is that the colder the incoming water the less efficient the rodi will b... hth Joe

01/25/2012, 03:50 PM	#13
mitch303 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 452	yea i was reading that colder water does affect production. so i turned the cold water on full blast and filled a bowl and stuck a temp probe in it and its in the low 50s. Pretty cold!

01/25/2012, 07:32 PM	#15
mitch303 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 452	alright i will have to try that. I also just moved my unit its still hooked to the same sink but the room behind the sink is a big storage room so i ran the drain line and water supply line through the holes where the water lines come through the wall for the sink. i also mounted the unit on the wall so the di doesnt have to push the water up hill. i also plan on adding a float valve to one of my brute trashcans so i always have water now i have plenty of room to do this now that my unit is in the storage room. I did have to add about another 4-5 ft of hosing to the drain line and water supply line willl this affect performance?