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Unread 06/28/2012, 03:34 PM   #1
StaghornE
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400 watt over 60 gallons

Hey guys ive been considering upping the lamp wattage over my 60 gallon cube to a 400 watt radium. I know that this is going to raise water temp. I just want to know if those of you that have a similar
Situation can tell me what kind of temperature change I can expect.


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Unread 06/28/2012, 06:18 PM   #2
shifty51008
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I ran 2 400's over my 75 gal cor a long time and after switching to 2 250's i havent noticed any diffrence in temp. I did have a small fan blowing in the canopy though but wasnt needed as my heaters still had to kick on to keep my temp at 78


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Unread 06/28/2012, 06:19 PM   #3
StaghornE
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No chiller?


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Unread 06/28/2012, 06:20 PM   #4
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Where are you located?


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Unread 06/28/2012, 06:35 PM   #5
Purple Rocks
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I think you can save yourself hydro by getting a 250w.
Besides 250w is more efficient you get more light per watt, and it runs cooler, now take the money you saved and buy a GOOD reflector, not a 20$ wing.
You don't NEED a 400w for that size.
Just my oppinion.


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Unread 06/28/2012, 07:15 PM   #6
shifty51008
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I have never used a chiller. I am in iowa and we can get days of 100+ outside during the summer and irmt still was fine. But i will agree 400 are overkill, 250's will be plenty to grow anything. I just used the 400 because thsts what i had at the time


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75 gal. mixed DT, 100 gal. sump, 50 gal. fuge,

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Unread 06/28/2012, 07:34 PM   #7
StaghornE
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The thing is I would like to use a radium lamp. And I feel that at 250 watts that's not going to be enough par at the bottom.


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Unread 06/28/2012, 07:47 PM   #8
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I can't see those pics what is that?


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Unread 06/28/2012, 08:29 PM   #9
shifty51008
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You will have plenty of par at the bottom. Look for good reflectors though they will also make a huge diffrence


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Unread 06/28/2012, 09:23 PM   #10
sirreal63
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There is very little difference in a 400 watt Radium and a properly driven 250 watt Radium, the PAR is very close, save the electricity and the heat, go with a 250 and the M80 ballast.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 04:18 AM   #11
StaghornE
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Would an m80 be better than a lumatek hqi ballast?


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Unread 06/29/2012, 05:01 AM   #12
buckeyereefer1
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the lumatek HQI will properly drive a radium. there are several people in my area clubs that use the adjustable one's. they are running a 400W bulb on the 250 HQI setting. they are getting the same PAR but claiming almost double the usage time.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 06:50 AM   #13
StaghornE
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Will that lamp produce less heat if under driven?


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Unread 06/29/2012, 07:27 AM   #14
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i would imagine so. your running less wattage thru it. wouldn't think any more than a 250W bulb.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 07:46 AM   #15
sirreal63
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I would advise against running a 400 watt (actually 360 is the correct wattage for the Radium) at the 250 watt HQI setting on an electronic ballast. Under driving a bulb is not a good idea, you will not get the correct color from the bulb. Time to do some reading...
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/jb/index.php

There is no reason to not use the correct ballast for a MH bulb.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 08:09 AM   #16
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I'm running 250 hex arc with great success I was just hoping to switch to 20,000k without losing par


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Unread 06/29/2012, 08:13 AM   #17
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You will lose a little PAR, not much. I am assuming you are using the 14K Phoenix with the Lumatek electronic ballast?


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Unread 06/29/2012, 08:20 AM   #18
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I was planning to switch to a lumatek. I have a coralvue ballast now and feel I would get better par from the lumatek that's why I'm considering switching to 400watt


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Unread 06/29/2012, 08:22 AM   #19
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Is it worth switching. Do you think the results will be better as far as color with the radium.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 08:36 AM   #20
sirreal63
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Switch the ballast, the correct one for the Phoenix and the Radium is an M80 ballast, this is the one you want.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Aqua_Medi...MHHFMB-vi.html

The 400 is not worth it when the 250, properly driven, has very close to the same PAR as a 400, properly driven. When choosing lighting, it is always best to stay with the correct components. You should be able to get well over a year on a bulb, I usually change mine at 14-16 months but some people go longer, up to a couple of years. If you want to do some more reading on it...
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php

Color is a subjective term. Both the Phoenix and the Radium are not overly blue when run properly, but the color of the Radium, IMO and most people's opinion, renders reds and greens better. If you are looking for the Windex look then supplement with T5 or VHO. The 250 watt Radium and VHO Superactintics is one of the best looks you can get, but it is not bad with T5 or Royal Blue LED's. Stay away from the 400 if using Radium, you are just adding extra heat for very little gain unless you over drive the 400, then you have short bulb life to contend with.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 10:36 AM   #21
StaghornE
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The lumatek claims 10% higher output. Should I go with the m80?


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Unread 06/29/2012, 10:46 AM   #22
sirreal63
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Go with the M80, that 10% is over the 250 watt electronic setting, not 10% over the correct ballast. Keep in mind that marketing comes into play here as well, and to date I have never found one bulb manufactured for an electronic ballast for aquariums. Every bulb available was designed to run on a certain ballast. Electronics will run them and for a regular bulb it makes sense to use one, for an HQI bulb it really doesn't because the correct ballast is available and often less expensive. The difference in electrical usage is negligible.

Electronic ballasts have come a long ways and they will continue to do so. You can certainly run the Lumatek but it offers no advantage at all for the bulb or your corals. You are looking to get the most from the bulb, and running it with the correct ballast is the best way to get maximum par and life.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 01:10 PM   #23
StaghornE
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Thanks for the info


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Unread 06/29/2012, 01:26 PM   #24
tcmfish
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I have a 58 gallon. I run a 400 watt mogul halide and a 250 watt HQI. The house is 77 during the day, 75 at night. I have a large fan to cool the tank and my temps go from 78.5 to 81.5. I don't like that fluctuation, but at the moment I don't have enough power in the fish room for my chiller. For now things are doing fine, but the next project is to redo the outlets in the room and then I will have the chiller for peace of mind.


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Unread 06/29/2012, 01:26 PM   #25
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DBL Post.


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