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09/24/2012, 04:42 PM | #1 |
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Nitrate problem
I have fluval Osaka 260L. Fluval 406 canister filter, 2 t5 HO light fixture, 70lbs of live rock, and 80lbsof live sand. I run the lights for 8 hours a day.
Livestock includes: 2 true perculas 1 lawnmower blenny 4 electric blue hermit crabs 4 turbos snails 4 Cerith snails 6 scarlet reef hermit crabs I feed once a day with New Life Spectrum Thera A sinking pellets. My parameters are: 8.2 PH 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 40 Nitrate How do you I get my nitrates down? I replaced the carbon that the filter came with Chemi Pure Elite. Need suggestions on what to do as I am new to the hobby. Help would be greatly appreciated. |
09/24/2012, 07:02 PM | #2 |
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I'd get a second opinion on the nitrate kit before spending a lot of time or money. They seem to have problems. The kit should measure zero on RO/DI and on freshly-mixed saltwater.
If the level is correct, I suspect the tank is getting more than it can handle. On the other hand, bio-filtration media in the Fluval (if any) often seems to be an issue as well. So how much volume is fed per day, and what is in the Fluval? How long has the tank been running?
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Jonathan Bertoni |
09/24/2012, 07:14 PM | #3 |
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Where are you getting your water? It may be from your water to begin with. Some ocean water does have nitrates especially if they are pulling it from a bay type area where there can be more polutants.
Other than that, try the Salifert nitrate kits. Those work well for me and are a bit more accurate than other ones out there. Last - you only feed once a day - but just how much do you feed? Too much, even once a day will up your nitrates. |
09/24/2012, 11:06 PM | #4 | |
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09/24/2012, 11:08 PM | #5 | |
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Chemi pure elite Fluval water polishing pad Filter fiber Fluval bio max Fluval bio foam |
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09/24/2012, 11:35 PM | #6 |
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Hmm, I'd probably pull all the media except the Chemi-Pure, but gradually. With only three fish in the tank, the bio-media shouldn't be needed. Any sudden changes could cause trouble, though.
The water polishing pad might be fine to use, if it's cleaned thoroughly frequently enough. Such pads tend to become biological media fairly quickly. Well, I can't guarantee removing the media will fix the problem. Such changes work for some tanks but not others. I'd probably remove the media a bit at a time, over a period of at least 4 weeks or so.
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09/24/2012, 11:37 PM | #7 | |
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09/24/2012, 11:42 PM | #8 |
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I'd remove the bio max and bio foam in 3 o 4 increments over a few days,probably the filter fiber too( I'd make a point of cleaning that fiber weekly if I didn't remove it);nitrates are produced in the high flow /high oxygen water flowing over and through these media. .
The chemi pure elite is a mix of granulated activated carbon and some granulated ferric oxide ,which is fine. It also contains some dionization resin which is useless but harmless in a salt water application but you pay for it. I run a fluval 404 old style canister on a 65 gallon with only granulated carbon and granulated ferric oxide and nitrates are very reasonable,between 5 to 10ppm.
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
09/24/2012, 11:46 PM | #9 | |
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Would a protein skimmer help? |
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09/24/2012, 11:55 PM | #10 |
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Purigen is good to use along with the chemi pure or granulated activated carbon. The Denitrate is just another form of porous media ; I wouldn't use it in a canister filter. I used a similar Seachem product( matrix ,the one for denitrification; not the matrix carbon which is a fine product), and nitrates dropped when it was removed.
It's ok to leave some of the canister compartments empty. How much chemipure or granulated carbon and gfo you put in the canister depends on the size of the tank, Generally , 1/2cup of carbon for 50 gallons of water volume changed monthly should do.
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
09/24/2012, 11:55 PM | #11 |
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Did you ever get a comparison test to validate your first results?
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09/25/2012, 12:03 AM | #12 |
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A protein skimmer is a good addition for many reasons.imo and experience. It aerates and removes some organic materials and particulates. I only have an old almost non functional small Red Sea Prism hang on skimmer on my 65 gallon. I actually consider this tank quasi skimmerless. I use large skimmers on the main system.
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
09/25/2012, 12:26 AM | #13 |
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I'd consider adding more carbon and maybe Purigen. A skimmer might help, although that's a fairly small number of fish for that much live rock. That's always hard to judge.
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09/25/2012, 01:42 AM | #14 | |
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Is this skimmer good? tunze doc protein skimmer 9006 I have looked at reef octopus skimmers, but they are to tall for the cabinet. I would only have 3" of room from the top of the skimmer to the top of the cabinet. Last edited by Ryan1221; 09/25/2012 at 01:48 AM. |
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09/25/2012, 01:43 AM | #15 |
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09/25/2012, 01:47 AM | #16 | |
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09/25/2012, 07:45 AM | #17 |
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Would you recommend taking out all the bio media out at once?
See post # 9 You have good amounts of surface area with rock and sand so you might be able to remove them quickly but it's safer to remove them incrementally and to watch for any ammonia spike if removing large amounts. I didn't note any mention of bioballs earlier but they should e removed as well.
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
09/25/2012, 07:55 PM | #18 |
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I agree with doing the removal gradually. An ammonia spike always is a bad thing.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
09/25/2012, 08:59 PM | #19 |
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Alright I will do that.
My lfs is going to check and see how much a custom tank for my cabinet is going to cost. I want to get a sump as soon as possible. |
09/26/2012, 08:13 AM | #20 |
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It would be a good idea to check the TDS of the water you are getting. I have known several LFS's that only run RO and do not run DI and they are sometimes not very diligent in changing out the filters. It may be ok, but I would test it just to know for certain. Test it for Nitrates and Phosphates.
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09/26/2012, 08:36 AM | #21 | |
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fluval 406, fluval osaka 260l, nitrate |
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