Return pump..... strange idea. Pls help!

[miserkris]

Hi

It's very hard to reach behind my dt and service my return pump since I have lots of wires etc behind dt.

Can anyone suggest an easy way to remove just the pump when needed and leave the spouts /flares and tubing still hanging on the dt?

I'm thinking maybe a screwing pvc connection that's easy to loosen ...a connection just above my sump' s lip?

Pls recommend an easy solution so I can remove return pump from front of the sump when needed.

Thanks much!
Kris

[mmn]

Originally Posted by miserkris

Hi

It's very hard to reach behind my dt and service my return pump since I have lots of wires etc behind dt.

Can anyone suggest an easy way to remove just the pump when needed and leave the spouts /flares and tubing still hanging on the dt?

I'm thinking maybe a screwing pvc connection that's easy to loosen ...a connection just above my sump' s lip?

Pls recommend an easy solution so I can remove return pump from front of the sump when needed.

Thanks much!
Kris

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-...s/N-5yc1vZbuv0

[mbemount]

Have you tried using true unions?

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by mbemount

Have you tried using true unions?

No. But will they work with vinyl tubing?
Might need a barb to thread adapter right?

I guess the key is I should be able to loosen it with a wrench easily working just above the sump.

Pls suggest which option to use for my existing return that has black vinyl tubing that I got from HD.

THANKS!

[Bill Nye]

Thread/thread union and then get barb adapters. Easiest solution. Unions are hand tightened so you don't even need a wrench to unscrew them.

Make sure to use teflon tape on the threads so there won't be any leaks.

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by Bill Nye

Thread/thread union and then get barb adapters. Easiest solution. Unions are hand tightened so you don't even need a wrench to unscrew them.

Make sure to use teflon tape on the threads so there won't be any leaks.

Where to buy these. ..Will these things be avl in hd or just online ? Here's my guess about size:

My pump is a quite one 3000. I forgot the thickness of my black shiny thick vinyl tubing I got from hd long ago. It fits the quite one's output so maybe 1.5" od?
I have a plastic ratcheting clamp around it.... really hard to remove.
Thanks.

[Branespikin]

You can get all this from HD.I just did the same with mine true union with 3/4" thread and barbs. Works great.

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by Branespikin

You can get all this from HD.I just did the same with mine true union with 3/4" thread and barbs. Works great.

Great. .. normally hd doesn't sell barb to thread for 3/4"....maybe that was before.

As long as the true union doesn't get stuck after a year of use due to gunk, minerals etc that's easy to do maintenance for the return pump.

Thanks

[zachts]

snag true union ball valves to save on all the water draining down and making a mess when removing the pump for servicing. they are like $6-8 at HD for 3/4" threaded. Look in the irrigation section for the 3/4" barb fittings, they should have them. they'd likely be black or grey, if they don't have them with the plumbing stuff.

[miserkris]

For my 3/4" id vinyl piping......

Is it best to buy true unions that are slip x slip (which would be really easy to remove. ) or safe to go with threads?

Am I better of getting the one without the valve like this with FPTXFPT:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Str...4HC/100211318/

Or the one with the ball valve:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/LEGEND-VALV...603/203933541/

I can't check in person since hd doesn't have in store. It's online only.

Thanks!

[zachts]

Originally Posted by miserkris

For my 3/4" id vinyl piping......

Is it best to buy true unions that are slip x slip (which would be really easy to remove. ) or safe to go with threads?

Am I better of getting the one without the valve like this with FPTXFPT:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Str...4HC/100211318/

Or the one with the ball valve:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/LEGEND-VALV...603/203933541/

I can't check in person since hd doesn't have in store. It's online only.

Thanks!

Surely you have a hardware or plumbing supply store nearby that has them in stock, around here either Lowes, Menards, or Homedepot (which happen to be across the street from each other) always have what I'm after. Otherwise if I'm not happy with the quality from the big box stores there are a half dozen plumbing/contractor specialty stores near by if I'm willing to pay a bit more for a quality fitting (those places carry fittings you wouldn't even have imagined existed). For aquarium use the cheap stuff is more than adequate though.

Go with the threaded unions, valve or not is up to you. but with slip unions you'll have a heck of a time finding a barb fitting that will attach without needing thread x slip adapters anyway.........

For the threads snag a tube of soft set thread seal (rector seal number 5 is usually available in the plumbing section) don't use Teflon tape with plastic fittings you won't get as good of a seal and risk cracking the fittings.

[miserkris]

Ok.... is rector seal reef safe?

Assuming I have it all set with a true union. Now I wanna clean the return pump. ...

If I twist the union Will it loosen at both threaded ends at same time?

Almost seems I need three hands lol. .. one to hold top, one for pump, one to turn the union.
Thanks .

[zachts]

Originally Posted by miserkris

Ok.... is rector seal reef safe?

Assuming I have it all set with a true union. Now I wanna clean the return pump. ...

If I twist the union Will it loosen at both threaded ends at same time?

Almost seems I need three hands lol. .. one to hold top, one for pump, one to turn the union.
Thanks .

It is reef safe, most of us have been using it for years. It won't really ever get into the water, and wouldn't matter if it did, just don't apply too much and clean up any that squishes out. Some people don't like it cause it can be a little messy first time you work with it but it is the way to go for a leak free seal.

The unions will come apart much easier than the threaded barbs will. You shouldn't have any problem taking it apart. Hand tighten the barbs into the fitting then give a quarter turn with a wrench, no more than that. Only hand tighten the Union halves back together, a rubber gasket makes the seal so it doesn't need to be supper duper tight. Just enough that it is snug.

You'll figure it out once you start assembling things, just make sure to leave room to get your hands in there to tighten or loosen the unions for servicing the pump.

[azjohnny]

For the threads snag a tube of soft set thread seal (rector seal number 5 is usually available in the plumbing section) don't use Teflon tape with plastic fittings you won't get as good of a seal and risk cracking the fittings.

completely agree. Teflon tape is for metal fittings

I have a double union ball valve on the exit side of the return pump. I change out my return pump every 6 months ( I have 2 that I rotate) I also control the flow with the ball valve

[miserkris]

Hd didn't have rector. He gave a similar tube see pic. Can I use it?

Also do I also apply this sealant paste to the union's main threads (that connect both halves with a o ring seal)?

Thx

[zachts]

Not familiar with that brand. just compare the ingredients to rector seal, probably the same stuff.

No, you don not apply any sealant to the union main threads themselves, the seal is made by the gasket on the inside between the two halves.

[miserkris]

Thanks. I think the project is a success. Only I put the gasket half in the pipe side and not in the pump side (which I'll remove often to clean or swap pumps).

Not a big deal. Thanks to the gasket I didn't have to really tighten the union!

Thanks guys.