Threaded joints leaking. Should I start over?

DobieMom · 09/10/2016, 05:51 AM

I've had basic freshwater/saltwater aquariums much of my life, but my husband recently surprised me with a 120 gallon reef ready aquarium with 2 corner overflows for our anniversary.

He tried his hardest to plumb the overflows to the wet/dry filter correctly. We bought PVC pipes to run from the overflow boxes to the filter. He roughed up/sanded the joints and glued them.

We filled the tank. 20 minutes later, the seal around one of the intake pipes at the bottom of the aquarium is leaking (slowly). 2 of the Threaded ball joints are also leaking even though he used thread tape. (slow drip).

Do we need to start over? Drain the tank. Rip everything out? Not sure how to properly fix these tiny leaks now that everything is glued together. When we started the filter everything else seemed to be functioning great. He's so disappointed.

heathlindner25 · 09/10/2016, 06:08 AM

Got pictures?

DobieMom · 09/10/2016, 06:36 AM

DobieMom · 09/10/2016, 06:42 AM

I'm trying to share photos but having a hard time figuring out how. Here is one (attached I think.) I spelled Acrylic wrong in the pic..lol..Not my day.

DobieMom · 09/10/2016, 06:43 AM

Here is another pic (attached)

Timfish · 09/10/2016, 06:48 AM

Tell him he's in good company!

I've had repeat problems using pipe tape and now just use cheap silicone I (not silicone II that has fungicide added) on my threaded joints.

zachxlutz · 09/10/2016, 06:58 AM

Non-hardening PVC paste is, IMHO, a far superior product to the tape. I did some research on why it's a better product and found that the tape is static while the paste is actually forced into the areas it's needed most by the water pressure. Image below from Lasco Fittings.

Just pull your threaded joints apart and use a non-hardening pic paste. Also double check your bulkheads aren't too tight. Finger tight is plenty. Check for gasket deflection, there shouldn't be any. Good luck!

kmbyrnes · 09/10/2016, 07:21 AM

If glued joints are leaking they need to be replaced.
I also gave up on tape and use only paste now.
I sleep better and don't see salt creep.

mcgyvr · 09/10/2016, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zachxlutz

Non-hardening PVC paste is, IMHO, a far superior product to the tape. I did some research on why it's a better product.
Just pull your threaded joints apart and use a non-hardening pvc paste. Also double check your bulkheads aren't too tight. Finger tight is plenty. Check for gasket deflection, there shouldn't be any. Good luck!

Ding.. ding..ding.. Give this man a gold star..

Rectorseal at Home Depot.. Make sure its says for thread sealant/paste for PVC

DobieMom · 09/10/2016, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zachxlutz

Non-hardening PVC paste is, IMHO, a far superior product to the tape. I did some research on why it's a better product and found that the tape is static while the paste is actually forced into the areas it's needed most by the water pressure.
Just pull your threaded joints apart and use a non-hardening pic paste. Also double check your bulkheads aren't too tight. Finger tight is plenty. Check for gasket deflection, there shouldn't be any. Good luck!

Thank you everyone! We are going to take apart the joints and try one of the non hardening sealants you suggested later today. Fingers crossed! I think you are right bulk head is too tight, messing up the gasket.

Once more quick question... We used a flexible hose (photo attached) connecting the pump tot he PVC system. This also has a small drip, but it's dripping back into the glass the pump is in so not a big deal, yet. Is there a better way? I wanted something flexible in case the pump ever needs cleaning/replacing.

Capsle · 09/10/2016, 08:09 AM

I use the Teflon tape but put it on really thick,5-6 layers, if not liquid Teflon works well and the PCV paste. All different options. It's really your choice but if using the tape 1-2 layers is really not enough.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

billdogg · 09/10/2016, 08:34 AM

Teflon tape is meant for iron pipe. PTFE paste is made for threaded pvc. A small amount on the male part of the threaded fitting will spread itself around as you tighten the two pieces together.

The glued fittings that are leaking will need to be cut out and replaced. There really isn't a good way to fix them, and at all of .24 cents apiece, why even try?

I can't tell from your picture of the bulkhead - make sure the gasket is on the flange side of the fitting and not on the nut side. 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight is plenty for it.

I agree that flexible tubing is the best way to connect your return to the pvc, but I would replace what you have with vinyl tubing. Not only will it be difficult to get a good seal using ribbed tubing, it creates a lot of turbulence in the flow and will therefore reduce the pumps output. I also can't tell in the picture - is there so much tubing that there is a big loop in it? use the shortest piece you can get away with for best results.

hth

DobieMom · 09/10/2016, 09:05 AM

Love the vinyl tubing idea. The one we connected in the pic is what came with the filter. Way too long as it's meant to reach the bulk heads not the PVC we added, and really hard to get a tight seal. Will start replacing the fittings later. Feel more confident about our next steps now. Thanks.

heathlindner25 · 09/10/2016, 09:22 AM

make sure the gasket is on the wet side of the bulkhead.

TangingOut · 09/10/2016, 09:32 AM

While redoing everything, maybe consider ditching the wet/dry and go with a baffled sump and protein skimmer.

HippieSmell · 09/10/2016, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heathlindner25

make sure the gasket is on the wet side of the bulkhead.

I would say make sure the gasket is not on the side of the nut, just in case the bulkhead needs to be installed backward.

heathlindner25 · 09/10/2016, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HippieSmell

I would say make sure the gasket is not on the side of the nut, just in case the bulkhead needs to be installed backward.

I would never think to install One backwards, I've always just put them in the way they're supposed to go.

DobieMom · 09/10/2016, 10:04 AM

Gasket is on the wet side. 3 out of 4 are fine. just one has a really slow leak. I think it was turned too tight.

billdogg · 09/10/2016, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heathlindner25

make sure the gasket is on the wet side of the bulkhead.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HippieSmell

I would say make sure the gasket is not on the side of the nut, just in case the bulkhead needs to be installed backward.

Quote:

Originally Posted by heathlindner25

I would never think to install One backwards, I've always just put them in the way they're supposed to go.

I have bulkheads installed on various tanks both ways. The bulkhead couldn't care less.

There really isn't a "frontwards" or "backwards" to bulkheads. The only thing that matters is that the gasket is on the flange side, not the nut side. Different situations make it easier for the bulkhead to be oriented in a particular way.

Sk8r · 09/10/2016, 11:16 AM

TO THE OP'S DILEMMA...Rubbermaid Brute Trashcans are a major aid in this hobby. Always have one and keep it pristine for just such situations.

You can pull water, rock, and all to fix this. You may be able to use a circle of plastic or such to dam back the sand, but be aware if you get one grain of sand into a gasket, it can create a leak.

I had four of these monster cans (Home Depot has an array of sizes, best source) when I had to drain down a functioning reef temporarily to install new flooring. You never know when they'll prove life-saving.

This will let you work on the problem and put things back again without stuff drying out or losing bacterial population.

CindyK · 09/10/2016, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Ding.. ding..ding.. Give this man a gold star..

Rectorseal at Home Depot.. Make sure its says for thread sealant/paste for PVC

This?

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

billdogg · 09/10/2016, 12:19 PM

yep. that will work just fine. Just a thin bead around the male threads. allow it to spread itself into the female threads as you screw the two pieces together. Just to keep it neat, I wipe off any excess with a paper towel

CindyK · 09/10/2016, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdogg

yep. that will work just fine. Just a thin bead around the male threads. allow it to spread itself into the female threads as you screw the two pieces together. Just to keep it neat, I wipe off any excess with a paper towel

Thanks!!!!!

If I use this at unions will they come apart, then be re-attachable down the road?

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Harry Muscle · 09/10/2016, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CindyK

This?

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I'd be careful with that one ... according to the manufacturers website they recommended against using this on ABS plastic which the majority of bulkheads are made of. PVC use only seems fine though.

Thanks,
Harry

homer1475 · 09/10/2016, 03:23 PM

Never seen the rectorseal. I have always used the oateys pipe thread compound, which is fine for ABS plastic.

09/10/2016, 05:51 AM	#1
DobieMom Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 8	Threaded joints leaking. Should I start over? I've had basic freshwater/saltwater aquariums much of my life, but my husband recently surprised me with a 120 gallon reef ready aquarium with 2 corner overflows for our anniversary. He tried his hardest to plumb the overflows to the wet/dry filter correctly. We bought PVC pipes to run from the overflow boxes to the filter. He roughed up/sanded the joints and glued them. We filled the tank. 20 minutes later, the seal around one of the intake pipes at the bottom of the aquarium is leaking (slowly). 2 of the Threaded ball joints are also leaking even though he used thread tape. (slow drip). Do we need to start over? Drain the tank. Rip everything out? Not sure how to properly fix these tiny leaks now that everything is glued together. When we started the filter everything else seemed to be functioning great. He's so disappointed.

09/10/2016, 06:48 AM	#6
Timfish Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,985	Tell him he's in good company! I've had repeat problems using pipe tape and now just use cheap silicone I (not silicone II that has fungicide added) on my threaded joints. __________________ "Our crystal clear aquaria come nowhere close to the nutrient loads that swirl around natural reefs" Charles Delbeek

09/10/2016, 06:58 AM	#7
zachxlutz Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia Posts: 94	Non-hardening PVC paste is, IMHO, a far superior product to the tape. I did some research on why it's a better product and found that the tape is static while the paste is actually forced into the areas it's needed most by the water pressure. Image below from Lasco Fittings. Just pull your threaded joints apart and use a non-hardening pic paste. Also double check your bulkheads aren't too tight. Finger tight is plenty. Check for gasket deflection, there shouldn't be any. Good luck! __________________ Zach's 120 Gallon Reef Resurgence: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2590557 Current Tank Info: 120 Gallon Display + 55 Gallon Sump/Fuge

09/10/2016, 07:21 AM	#8
kmbyrnes Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 2,055	If glued joints are leaking they need to be replaced. I also gave up on tape and use only paste now. I sleep better and don't see salt creep. __________________ 125g Mixed Reef 5/26/2015; 350 Butterfly Dominated FOWLR 11/26/2015 - 11/17/20217 & 07/31/18 to ??? ; 100g Mixed Reef 11/16/2013 to 06/16/2017 Current Tank Info: Too small

09/10/2016, 08:09 AM	#11
Capsle Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada Posts: 385	I use the Teflon tape but put it on really thick,5-6 layers, if not liquid Teflon works well and the PCV paste. All different options. It's really your choice but if using the tape 1-2 layers is really not enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Caps Current Tank Info: 65G DT with custom overflow, 35G custom sump, maxspect R420r 180w 15K, reef octopus classic 150 skimmer.

09/10/2016, 06:08 AM	#2
heathlindner25 Moved On Join Date: May 2012 Location: flowery branch georgia Posts: 3,644	Got pictures?

09/10/2016, 06:36 AM	#3
DobieMom Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 8

09/10/2016, 08:34 AM	#12
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	Teflon tape is meant for iron pipe. PTFE paste is made for threaded pvc. A small amount on the male part of the threaded fitting will spread itself around as you tighten the two pieces together. The glued fittings that are leaking will need to be cut out and replaced. There really isn't a good way to fix them, and at all of .24 cents apiece, why even try? I can't tell from your picture of the bulkhead - make sure the gasket is on the flange side of the fitting and not on the nut side. 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight is plenty for it. I agree that flexible tubing is the best way to connect your return to the pvc, but I would replace what you have with vinyl tubing. Not only will it be difficult to get a good seal using ribbed tubing, it creates a lot of turbulence in the flow and will therefore reduce the pumps output. I also can't tell in the picture - is there so much tubing that there is a big loop in it? use the shortest piece you can get away with for best results. hth __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

09/10/2016, 09:05 AM	#13
DobieMom Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 8	Love the vinyl tubing idea. The one we connected in the pic is what came with the filter. Way too long as it's meant to reach the bulk heads not the PVC we added, and really hard to get a tight seal. Will start replacing the fittings later. Feel more confident about our next steps now. Thanks.

09/10/2016, 09:22 AM	#14
heathlindner25 Moved On Join Date: May 2012 Location: flowery branch georgia Posts: 3,644	make sure the gasket is on the wet side of the bulkhead.

09/10/2016, 09:32 AM	#15
TangingOut Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 1,511	While redoing everything, maybe consider ditching the wet/dry and go with a baffled sump and protein skimmer.

09/10/2016, 10:04 AM	#18
DobieMom Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 8	Gasket is on the wet side. 3 out of 4 are fine. just one has a really slow leak. I think it was turned too tight.

09/10/2016, 11:16 AM	#20
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	TO THE OP'S DILEMMA...Rubbermaid Brute Trashcans are a major aid in this hobby. Always have one and keep it pristine for just such situations. You can pull water, rock, and all to fix this. You may be able to use a circle of plastic or such to dam back the sand, but be aware if you get one grain of sand into a gasket, it can create a leak. I had four of these monster cans (Home Depot has an array of sizes, best source) when I had to drain down a functioning reef temporarily to install new flooring. You never know when they'll prove life-saving. This will let you work on the problem and put things back again without stuff drying out or losing bacterial population. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

09/10/2016, 12:19 PM	#22
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	yep. that will work just fine. Just a thin bead around the male threads. allow it to spread itself into the female threads as you screw the two pieces together. Just to keep it neat, I wipe off any excess with a paper towel __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

09/10/2016, 03:23 PM	#25
homer1475 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 5,313	Never seen the rectorseal. I have always used the oateys pipe thread compound, which is fine for ABS plastic. __________________ 80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256 Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht: "He's just taking his lunch to work"