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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Manassas, VA, USA
Posts: 378
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The lighting plans for my next tank; 75 gal, may include a Halide right in the center (along with other bulbs). The bulb would be between 6" and 7" above the top rim of the tank. It will be mounted paralell to the fron of the tank. Should I be concerned about the center brace blockng light or being damaged by the the heat and/or rays?
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#2 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Arden, NC
Posts: 619
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I would not mount a halide over a brace.
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Paul C Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat & drink beer all day. Current Tank Info: 168g starphire |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 2,199
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I have mine over a brace, but it's only been a week so I don't know if long term damage to the brace will result. I do have a 4" fan in the end of the canopy for disperse heat, I'm worried about the long term affects UV will have on the brace.
I can tell you that it does indeed cast a shadow. With the "glitter" lines you get from MH it's not very noticable, but you can see it. Where it shows the most is on the rear glass, near the top. If you're going with an AGA 75 you should have room to mount the MH's perpendicular to the length. Each MH spans about 2ft & would be perfect for a 4' tank. I have mine @ 6" on a 36" tank it even the corners get plenty of light. MH can make a 2ft spread easily. You might have to trim the end's of any reflector you buy if you wanted to squeeze in a couple of VHO actinics, but it's very do-able & you'd avoid any shadow. The MH sockets & bulb are only about 9" or 10" long w/o a reflector. If you're going with 3 bulbs you might want to consider upping the wattage & going with fewer bulbs. Just my .02 Edit: Forgot to add, if you want to see what the shadow looks like just post a note over @ WAMAS, I live in Wdbridge & that's not too far from you. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 406
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It would be recommended to use two MH lights. One on the left and one on the right.
Most will say you should have 1 MH light for approximately 2 square feet. I think your tank is 48x18x20.
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Creating anything I can to make a better reef... :P Current Tank Info: 120G Reef Tank .... boy they do get big |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: KC
Posts: 211
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I have a six foot tank with a center brace. I was just going to cover the brace with some aluminum flashing to protect it from the light/heat.
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 30
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Was about to post a very similar question...
I melted the plastic brace in my tank right in half with a 100 watt halogen shop light. I was using it to determine if a single metal halide in the middle would work or if I needed two. I just hadn't bought the MH yet. After this, what I ended up doing that worked really well was a rigged up a couple of small aluminum "clips" that grasp the front and back edge of the tank where the brace was and I ran a braided stainless steel cable (small) between the two and tightened it. It keeps the tank from flexing and it doesn't care how hot it gets. And it doesn't block ANY light.
HTH |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Newburyport, Ma.
Posts: 117
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On my 65g I cut out the center brace and replaced it with two DIY braces that are offset so you do not get a brace shadow. Each brace consists of 2 - 6" pieces of 1- 1/2" aluminum angle connected by a 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock drilled and fastened with stainless steel nuts,washers and bolts. It works great. No problems. As a matter of fact I removed one to get at some live rock in the tank and to put it back in place I had to wiggle the brace to get it to push the tank "in" The tank bulges about 1/8" - 1/4" without the brace.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 2,199
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I don't know if it helps Larry, but it sure helps me - lol - now I know how to get rid of that shadow line!
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: KC
Posts: 211
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I thought about cutting my brace out but I just couldn't muster the courage to do it! The clips and cables really sound like a good idea.
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Newburyport, Ma.
Posts: 117
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The material for the braces are available from Home Depot. Total cost around $12.00 FWIW the braces when complete should look like the letter "I". Good Luck.
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: KC
Posts: 211
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Did you guys do these mods with the tank full or empty? I guess it wouldn't be too scary to hook up the new braces and then cut out the old one. After all, it is just plastic.
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Newburyport, Ma.
Posts: 117
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I cut mine when it was empty but it can be removed when full if the braces are in place. You'll just get plastic shavings in the tank.
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 30
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I did mine full.....
But only because I flubbed and gave myself no choice. If I had the option I would have done it while it was empty.
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#14 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vacaville ca
Posts: 199
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 2,199
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fliberdygibits, how did you....
prevent the plastic from ending up in the tank? Or did you just let it get "filtered" out?
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 30
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Net...
I kinda wedged my net under where I was cutting and used a dremel with a small guard on it. I got SOME plastic in the tank, not much.
HTH |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 1,170
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DUDE!!!!! That is crazy!! You couldn't pay me enough to cut out my center brace with the tank FULL
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: VA
Posts: 2,199
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chewie - ROTFLMAO - I just wondered how he did it, I don't think I have the balls to actually do it.
But it does make sense, if the brace is there to take up the pressure then it should all work out fine. |
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: KC
Posts: 211
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HEHE I don't have the guts to do it myself, but it is very good information to know in case you ever have a brace break!! Maybe I will add the cables as insurance and then if the urge hits me down the line, I can cut the brace out!
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 30
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If you notice my earlier post......
I did all this cause I had a brace failure
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#21 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 1,170
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fliberdygibits: Oh! I missed that part! still scary though
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#22 |
Awaiting Email Confirmation
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Thousasnd Oaks, CA
Posts: 146
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Sorry to bring up an old thead, but my glass brace broke, and I want to replace it with metal one that can handle heat, and doenst need to be cleaned all the time.
Cheeseone, did you silicone the pieces of aluminum angle to the tank before connecting them? If not, how were they connected? Thanks |
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