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Unread 10/23/2006, 04:01 PM   #1
TekCat
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large pump intake and small bulkead

I have drilled 3/4" hole in my tank for water intake on closed loop. Tank is filled with water and there is no way to redrill it.

(I know that if intake of the pump is too small then there is possibility of cavitation and other undesirable things.) So, would this work: intake manifold = 1' reduced to 3/4" bulkhead, then back to 1" pipe to powerfull pump that requires 1" intake?


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Unread 10/23/2006, 06:00 PM   #2
BruiseAndy
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You'll actually be more likely to cavitate the pump if you do that. No good solutions I can think of except for upsizing the hole or downsizing the pump.


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Unread 10/23/2006, 11:51 PM   #3
TekCat
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pardon my ignorance on plumbing and fliud mechanics... but wont it just increase water speed in the 3/4" part of the system? Or am I on drugs... again?


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Unread 10/23/2006, 11:59 PM   #4
BeanAnimal
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You can downsize the output section. This well lessen the overall throughput of the pump. This will not damage the pump... but you will get less flow.

The velocity of the water will increase as the pipe diameter decreases. But the pump IS NOT a positive displacement pump. Therefore as the pipe diameter decreases, the friction will increase (remember the velocity is rising). The pump will slip more trying to pull the water through the restriction.

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Unread 10/24/2006, 12:01 AM   #5
BeanAnimal
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Don't listen to HVAC tech guys... they are not the sharpest crayons in the pack...

In any case the HVAC guys is correct... your best bet is to upsize the hole or downsize the pump


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Unread 10/24/2006, 12:59 AM   #6
Keelay
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Here's my take. You can get around this easy with minimal risk of cavitating. Use Schedule 26 (thin wall) 3/4" PVC pipe.

1" Schedule 40 PVC has an inner diameter of 1.033 inches according to my favorite PVC diameter web reference:
http://www.gizmology.net/pipe.htm

1" Schedule 80 PVC is listed 0.935" I.D.

3/4" Schedule 26 PVC has an inner diameter of 0.9375". (Not listed on the site, but I took my own measurement with my own tape measure at 15/16")

That is 9% smaller than Schedule 40 and almost identical to Sched 80. I don't think it's going to matter much, if at all. I would bet money on it not cavitating ever.

3/4" sched 26 PVC

1" sched 40 PVC

Both pipes together.


- Kyle


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Last edited by Keelay; 10/24/2006 at 01:21 AM.
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Unread 10/24/2006, 01:08 AM   #7
BeanAnimal
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I use thinwall on everything...substantially more area


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Unread 10/24/2006, 02:00 AM   #8
Keelay
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Yeah. I agree with you Bean. The more area the better. In an aquarium we're never concerned with pressure, and the thin wall pipe handles way more than we'll even need. There's really not much reason not to use the stuff.

I guess the question really is this when the pump has a 1" input, which Schedule I.D. is it referring to? I'm don't think I'm taking a leap here and thinking that the standard Sched 40 should work. The 3/4" thin wall is close enough to this that I believe there wouldn't be an issue.

I guess this is the time to ask TekCat what pump he's asking about.


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Unread 10/24/2006, 08:31 AM   #9
RichConley
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If the pump has 1" intake, it most likely needs 1.5"+ for a closed loop application.

You're either going to have to restrict the output, or run a smaller pump.


A smaller pressure rated pump with an eductor may be an option.


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Unread 10/24/2006, 10:02 AM   #10
TekCat
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I guess this is the time to ask TekCat what pump he's asking about.

Currently I have 3/4" intake -> Eheim 1262 -> OM-Squid -> four 3/4" outlets. I am quite dissapointed - not enough flow. So, I am thinking about upgrading pump to Pan World 50PX-X, however my dillema is 3/4" intake bulkhead, and the abovementioned pump has both 1" inlet and outlet.


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Unread 10/24/2006, 10:17 AM   #11
96p993
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I certainly dont want to hijack this thread but along the same lines I have a output question for a closed loop. I have 4 outlets all of the 1" in diameter. I want to be able to direct the flow a bit but without 1" locline Im not how to do this.


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Unread 10/24/2006, 05:07 PM   #12
BruiseAndy
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Lots of reading for anyone who wants to take the time. This includes you bean (I assume you know how to read as you are posting here).

http://www.gouldspumps.com/cat_pf_0001.html


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Unread 10/24/2006, 05:25 PM   #13
BeanAnimal
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Don't be stealing my secret links and passing them out to the world!


I have several more pump theory and operation websites bookmarked of anybody is interested. I used to spend a LOT of time working with a LOT of different types of pumps (parent company I worked for did nothing but pumps!)

Bean


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Unread 10/25/2006, 12:59 AM   #14
TekCat
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Wow!!! that is a bit more than I bargain for )))) I'd have to reread and reread that secret link.

Bean, could you explain for me in lamens terms what is positive displacement pump and what is NOT? I believe we're dealing with NON positive d.pumps.


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Unread 10/25/2006, 07:48 AM   #15
BeanAnimal
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Yes centrifugal pumps are not positive displacement.

On the other hand a PISTON pump is positive displacement. Spur gear pumps are positive displacement, etc.

What does this mean? A postive displacement pump is capable of moving the same amount of material with each cycle or stroke. As head pressure rises, the pump may slow down, but the material per cycle stays the same.

Does that help?


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Unread 10/25/2006, 10:06 AM   #16
TekCat
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Thanks Bean, makes perfect sense.


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