Reduced Photoperiod for Cyano (Kessil A360)

[Yellow Eyes]

I am currently battling a Cyano outbreak, most likely because it is a fairly new tank. I have already done (and will continue to do) what Sk8r has suggested with the 3 day lights outs for 3 months. I have done one month so far and the cyano seemed to come back with a vengeance. I have about 2 weeks until I do the 3 day blackout again, but until then I read about reducing the photoperiod.

My current photoperiod is based on the Neptune Apex season table, with a total of 4 hour ramp up and 4 hour ramp down. Now I reduced my photoperiod to 5 hours in the afternoon/evening and I just wanted to see what others might have done and to check my apex graph to make sure I am not ramping up/down too fast. The max power for my Kessil A360 lights is 45% currently.

How long can I keep a 5 hour photoperiod without hurting my corals (LPS: hammer, torch, frogspawn etc)?

[Sk8r]

I wish I could help you, but I have no experience with the LEDs. What I do know is that those particular corals are partially dependent on taking in food---Cyclopeeze is good---but also they depend heavily on their photosynthetic cells, meaning light---but HOW much light is necessary for the cells to function well, I don't know, except to say they grow and reproduce best high up in the tank under bright light. If you see them getting pale, that means they're losing some of that capability. Time might tell, but somebody who's really studied these species might know that answer without having to test to see. All I know is what's worked for me, but that says nothing about limits and tolerances.

[wcarterh]

Yellow, do you also have good flow (no dead zones) and controlling phosphates?

I can't help with Kessils. I have a Vertex. You might check for something showing the PARS, if you don't have a PAR meter. I know BRS did a study on a few LED's.

[Yellow Eyes]

Yeah it seems like pretty good flow, the cyano is definitely rocking a lot, it is growing quick and becoming long and stringy (like 6"+). I will do the 5 hour photoperiod until friday, and then go back to normal, and then Thursday next week I will do a 3 day blackout for month #2 right before a water change.

The corals thus far are opening same as always.

[SonRK]

I use a Maxspect Razor 160W 27" on my Nuvo 30L, so it's a shallow tank.

I run it as high as ...50% whites? 65% blues at the max. I too am suffering from Cyano.

I am pretty sure I have decent flow because my Torch coral is constantly swaying in the sand bed. I also just recently found out that Cyano has like...long stringy hairs. Those are swaying around too, some violently, so it can't be flow.

So my issue must be light / excessive nutrients ._.

[wcarterh]

Cyano can be a pain in the rear.

SonRk, I run a Vertex Illumina. I still have yet to do a par reading myself, everything seems to be thriving, on a 8 hour per day cycle (plus moon cycle) at the same settings. Though this is what I can find in comparison:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...2192708&page=2
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...2088048&page=4

Though Someone whose played with lighting more than me will need to chime in on what the exact pars should be. The actual numbers will be lower due to not running at 100% plus most par meters from what I've read have a hard time with the blues.

[GilliganReef]

My lesson with cyano is get a GFO reactor and get your phos down. Quickest way to win the battle. I tried lowering light period and I have about 2,000-2,200 in gph flow in 40b tank. Won't make a difference going that direction. GFO and 25% water changes weekly until you win.

[firemountain]

How "new" is your tank? I have 2 Kessil 360we on their controller. I was very conservative on my photoperiod while my CUC was in place, and before any corals or fish. I started to add some LPS ( Torch,Scolymia, Yumas) after about 4 months. My first fish only went in a few weeks ago. My photoperiod is approx. 10 hrs, with the max currently at like 45 color, 55 intensity. It was a lot lower in the beginning, but would increase my numbers every week or so, to get where I am now.

Now I just added my first SPS last month, which needs a lot more light. I have been ramping up slowly, and now I am starting to get some cyano. Gonna start running GFO to keep it in check.

Point being...I would probably go no higher than like 25 color, 30/35 intensity. i believe that is where I was before I added corals, and didn't have any algae issues. There are guys here that know these lights a lot better than me, hopefully they can chime in. I can only give you what I experienced. Hope this helps. Username "Slief" is probably your best source for Kessils....he just added like 8 lights to his tank. He definitely can give you insight, probably better than my response, esp. since I don't run an Apex yet

[Sapelo]

+1 run GFO

[scottduncan1234]

try testing your phosphates 4 times one day say 1) when lights first come on, 2) noon or at highest light power, 3) dusk lights ramped down or close to off and then midnight...if there is a time when your phosphates are spiking then try to balance that with a decrease in light power unless the spike is at night then maybe increase refuge light power or run GFO reactor

[shesacharmer]

I've done lights out two months in a row...the first time it came back with a vengeance. I suck it out with a turkey baster almost daily. Water changes every other day. GFO/GAC mixed in a reactor. I've even dosed hydrogen peroxide (don't try this at home) and I've added chemiclean twice. My cyano isn't healthy but it isn't gone. I finally bought a pair of jebao rw 8's for more flow. Holy flow!! My LPS are very plssed off right now...but the cyano reappears immediately. Phos and Nitrates remain testing at zero. You just have to keep throwing everything at it and eventually it does die back.

[GilliganReef]

Originally Posted by shesacharmer

I've done lights out two months in a row...the first time it came back with a vengeance. I suck it out with a turkey baster almost daily. Water changes every other day. GFO/GAC mixed in a reactor. I've even dosed hydrogen peroxide (don't try this at home) and I've added chemiclean twice. My cyano isn't healthy but it isn't gone. I finally bought a pair of jebao rw 8's for more flow. Holy flow!! My LPS are very plssed off right now...but the cyano reappears immediately. Phos and Nitrates remain testing at zero. You just have to keep throwing everything at it and eventually it does die back.

If you are having Cyano, you have phos, so your testing kits are wrong. Trust me I was living in the world of ignorance of no Phos. I use salifert testing and it should 0 for last 8 mos. I started my Cyano and GHA issue 6 mos ago. I finally brought my water into my LFS who uses Hannah for Phos. Came back .15, so you have it doubled checked somewhere else.

[GilliganReef]

Also I have been doing 30% water changes last couple weeks and have been helping out marvelously. Right before your water change siphon all the cyano and algae into your filter sock. Then work on siphoning the old water out. This way helps remove more algae and debris. Trust me doing this after the first time you will notice a huge difference.

[wcarterh]

+1 GilliganReef, except it could be phosphates, nitrates, and or N2 it is feeding off of. Most likely the first and/or second.