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03/15/2012, 11:24 AM | #51 |
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Wow, and to think I was ridiculed for talking about an LFS that just tosses anemones into their tanks with nothing but floating a closed bag...I am so confused... Aclimate... Dont Acclimate...(sarcasm)
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03/15/2012, 01:27 PM | #52 | |
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Quote:
As soon as I open the bag I add tank water how much depends on how much is in the bag so it’s a judgment call. I add tank water every 5 minutes and watch them closely to read their stress level and never let them stay in the bag longer than 30 minutes. If I see the stress level escalating rapidly 20 minutes tops for me. I would rather take my chances let them in the tank where the water quality is healthy than leave them in the bag and run the risk of killing them that way. Sk8r will probably have a more informative answer.
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02/01/2016, 05:49 PM | #53 |
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i know this is an old thread, but i think it should be a sticky. this topic is often overlooked, and many beginners should have this info.
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"I glue animals to rocks" Current Tank Info: 36 gallon reef, 65 gallon Caribbean Biotope macroalgae and seagrass tank |
02/01/2016, 06:21 PM | #54 |
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Am I correct in assuming F&S is foster and smith?
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02/01/2016, 06:23 PM | #55 |
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02/01/2016, 06:36 PM | #56 |
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I was doing this over a decade ago. I watched a new LFS want to acclimate everything correctly killing fish in buckets in his store and did some research. He killed some beautiful fish.
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02/01/2016, 06:46 PM | #57 | |
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Quote:
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02/02/2016, 07:43 PM | #58 |
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Wow. This has been really helpful information! I am new to the hobby and am planning on getting my first fish in the next couple days (I think). My whole intention was to put the fish into a smaller bucket and do a drip acclimation, so this awesome to know.
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02/03/2016, 12:13 PM | #59 |
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The central purpose of acclimation, once temperature is at least moderately fixed, is salinity. If you can fix that in advance by pre-setting your quarantine tank, you've got perfect water (salt mixes try to be) at a matching salinity and an ok temperature. This will satisfy most everything the new arrival needs. And your qt, which will be dim, quiet, and clear of other fishes' smells and threats, will be a nice place to hang out and catch a fishy breath for a bit. When he finds out it's also rich in food (after a decent time to relax and get curious---THAT is the cue it's time to offer food)...he's in a good place, unbullied, unnipped, pretty secure, and fed without having to fight for it.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
07/01/2016, 02:36 PM | #60 |
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Attention Moderators!
Can someone please make this thread a sticky?
It is very important information for the life and safety of the critters we like to keep. Let's at least try to make their transition as least stressful as possible.
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Gary 180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels |
07/01/2016, 03:12 PM | #61 |
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+1 for sticky, I never thought of the PH change aspect of acclimation.
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07/27/2016, 08:28 PM | #62 |
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I never realized you could just drop a fish into a QT as long as the salinity is good (after acclimating for temperature of course). That will definitely help in the future, thanks Sk8r!
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08/08/2016, 12:11 PM | #63 |
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I just did a small survey to see what most refers were doing for acclimation. Most were doing very fast acclimation float bag 15 mins release into destination tank. OR they were doing various methods of adding water from destination tank cup / drip but all were doing that VERY FAST.
My Question is.. why are we are working so hard to match our salinity..when so many do freshwater dip? If a fish can survive fresh water dip... then I don't get the WHY we need to be so super exact to .001 for salinity? I float bag 15 mins and place in QT. I do all of this in low light. In fact I almost lost a super small fish b/c the lighting was so low! I think the lights are a bigger factor then we take into account. Neptuen |
08/08/2016, 12:43 PM | #64 |
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Lights on a qt should be used mostly for examination of fish at least once a day if not more often. It's also considerate not to put your qt near the bass speaker of your telly.
I don't freshwater dip anything. Never have. Won't. The 15 min float with the bag closed equalizes temperature, which is good.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
08/10/2016, 02:06 PM | #65 | ||
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It's still hard on the fish, just not as hard as other effective options. Osmotic shock happens rapidly in lower level organisms, and slower in higher organisms. Hence a quick dip. It's still happening to the fish though. Quote:
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08/11/2016, 12:55 PM | #66 | |
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Quote:
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Gary 180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels |
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