Going Bigger...Need Advice

[BadgeNC]

Looking for advice on my tank move. My current tank (60G, HOB skimmer, no sump) has been up and running for about a year and a half and doing great. Have quite a few LPS, softies in there now and some small fish. It's upstairs in our bonus room,

I just got a 120G with 40G trigger sump and putting it downstairs in my office. I'm going to be using all new equipment on the 120G, so I can have both running for a while and make the move slowly (it that would be better).

A few questions:

1. I have new Tropic Eden sand for the 120G. It seems about 50/50 on rinsing it, but if I rinse, should I make sure to use RODI, or is tap OK?

2. I'll be adding some extra dry-rock in to supplement the existing 50-60lbs I have in the 60G. Should I put this in the 120G, add the sand, then cycle the 120G first for a few weeks, or could I just put it in, along with the sand, and then add the existing live rock from the 60G? (worried about a small cycle if any of the live rock is covered/dies).

3. Is there any benefit from adding the existing water from the 60G? Or am I OK in just matching the parameters as closely as possible in the 120 before adding anything.

4. Should I "seed" the 120G sand using some from the 60G? My concern is that the 60G is finer (CaribSea original grade) and a little darker/dirtier than the the new Tropic Eden sand.

5. Would it be better to move all the corals/fish over at the same time, or slowly add rock/corals first then the livestock?

6. Are there any "supplements" I should have on hand to make this smoother and avoid any issues? Like removing ammonia should I have a small spike, start-up bacteria to help establish the biofilter, etc?

Thanks a bunch!!

[homer1475]

I moved from a 32 biocube to an 80 rimless with sump.

Moving over water has little effect as there is very little within the actual water column. There is a small amount of bacteria in the water column, but its a moot point.

You most certainly rinse the sand, and tap is fine for this, unless you want a sand storm in your tank anytime you disturb the sand bed? The general process is to dump some sand in a 5 gallon bucket, put in a garden hose to the bottom, turn it on and let the crap overflow. Of course you want to do this outside.

I started with all dry rock and moved none of the rock from my biocube over(full of pests). What I did was cycle the new tank, just like a new tank, but I added a couple cups of the old sandbed and mixed it up with the new sandbed. This basically adds some micro fauna and bacteria to jump start the cycle.
Then after the new tank fully cycled, I started by adding all my coral over(0 bioload in corals) at one time, then the fish, like 1 or 2 every couple days.

Never had an ammonia spike and everything is still doing well.

Some things you might want to have on hand, Prime or amequel to help if you have an ammonia spike.

If your moving all the rock over, I wouldn't hesitate to just dump everything in at once. The rock you have now can keep up with your bioload and your not adding any more bioload, just more water volume. I don't think it would be an issue at all.

[BadgeNC]

Thanks homer! Any other tips from those who have done a similar move?


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[itz frank]

Originally Posted by BadgeNC

Thanks homer! Any other tips from those who have done a similar move?


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I went from 60 cube to 130 5ft.

IMO, I'd cycle the rock in the tank if you can and then add to it after you've cycled the additional rock. I added dry sand to my tank AFTER the cycle.

What I did was cycle the liverock in the tank in the garage and then moved it into the room that replaced the 60 cube.

Being that you can have both run for a short time, I think this is best. I had no cycle upon breaking down the 130 cycled, breaking down the 60 cube, and replacing everything into the new tank with NSW for the first fill. The only issue that might occur from cycling in the new tank is that your nitrates will be quite high at the end and you alk will be really low. That's why I drained and did a full NSW fill.

All fish went into the new tank without acclimation for temp or salinity. 0 Losses.

[thegrun]

I moved up from a 50 to a 120 about a year and a half ago (mixed reef) and didn't lose any livestock during the transfer although I broke a few nice big SPS colonies.

1. Assuming this is dry sand you definitely want to wash it or you will be fighting the fines (dust) for several days. Use tap water and then a final rinse in RO/DI water. I dump 5-10 pounds of sand into a 5 gallon bucket, sick in the garden hose at full flow and swish it around until the water runs clear, which takes a lot of water. If it's live sand I would rinse it in saltwater to get at least some of the fines out.
2. There is a slight risk of a new cycle with dry rock, although slim. I cycled the extra rock in a separate Brute trash can before the big transfer.
3. Use as much clean water as possible from your old tank to lessen the shock of different water parameters, but once the water from the 60 starts to get murky from the detritus stop transferring it. Try to match salinity, temperature, alkalinity and pH as much as possible in that order. If you can have both tanks up at the same time make 15% water changes/transfers between the two tanks for a few days before the final move.
4. If you are moving rock from the 60 into the 120 the base rock at sand level in your 60 will have everything you need to seed the new tank in it. If not I would take a couple of cups from the 60, pile it up in one spot for a few days, then you can level out the sand.
5. I just moved them all at once (well rock and corals first, then fish but all in the same day). Keep track of what fish you moved, some fish will hide in the sand and need to be found. Moving the fish all on the same day seems to help lessen the territorial bouts, if you do decide to move them over a few days move the most aggressive fish last.
6. Yes you should have a bottle of Amquel or any of the other ammonia neutralizing products on hand just in case, but don't dose unless needed. I kept on of the ammonia badges in the tank for the first week, although I never had an ammonia spike.

The transfer itself takes a lot longer than you would think, plan on a long day. Best of luck and let us know how things work out!

[BrettDS]

1. I would suggest rinsing the sand first. However, that said, I have never rinsed sand before adding it... mostly because I'm too impatient, and every time I've done so I regretted it and told myself that I will rinse the sand first next time. If you don't rinse it can just release a lot of fine particles that will cloud the water and can take a day or two to settle down. Even trying to arrange the rockwork will kick up the fines again and can make the tank too cloudy to see what you're doing.

2. I don't see any need to pre-cycle the new tank. Most of the beneficial bacteria lives on the live rock and when you move that over the new tank will be cycled. There shouldn't be any die off to speak of from moving rock from one take to another in the same house.

3. There's not a good reason to transfer any water from the old tank. Like you said, try to match the water chemistry and temp as closely as possible and just acclimate the livestock as you would if you had just purchased them.

4. Personally I would seed the sand with a cup or two of sand from the old tank. If you're too worried about a color difference then just put it in the back behind some of the rocks where it will be hidden.

5. I would move everything at once.

6. Might not hurt to have some amquel on hand and test for ammonia frequently after the move just to be on the safe side, but I don't think you'll need it. When I moved to a new house I upgraded my 75G to a 220G at the same time. After the move I ran ammonia tests twice a day for the first few days, then once a day for a week or two just to be safe, but I never saw any measurable ammonia.

Good luck with the upgrade

[cleverbs]

Originally Posted by BadgeNC

Looking for advice on my tank move. My current tank (60G, HOB skimmer, no sump) has been up and running for about a year and a half and doing great. Have quite a few LPS, softies in there now and some small fish. It's upstairs in our bonus room,

I just got a 120G with 40G trigger sump and putting it downstairs in my office. I'm going to be using all new equipment on the 120G, so I can have both running for a while and make the move slowly (it that would be better).

A few questions:

1. I have new Tropic Eden sand for the 120G. It seems about 50/50 on rinsing it, but if I rinse, should I make sure to use RODI, or is tap OK?

Shouldnt really matter. I dont rinse sand all the time it may be a bit cloudy for a day but who cares.

2. I'll be adding some extra dry-rock in to supplement the existing 50-60lbs I have in the 60G. Should I put this in the 120G, add the sand, then cycle the 120G first for a few weeks, or could I just put it in, along with the sand, and then add the existing live rock from the 60G? (worried about a small cycle if any of the live rock is covered/dies).

I would just add it. No need to cycle prior. You shouldnt really see any mini cycle. If you use Pukani or other rock that is known to leech PO4 could cause some algae issues but thats it.

3. Is there any benefit from adding the existing water from the 60G? Or am I OK in just matching the parameters as closely as possible in the 120 before adding anything.

Just make new water and move it over. Make sure salinity is the same. I wouldnt add any water from the other tank it really wont help.

4. Should I "seed" the 120G sand using some from the 60G? My concern is that the 60G is finer (CaribSea original grade) and a little darker/dirtier than the the new Tropic Eden sand.

No need. The live rock should be enough for seeding the sand

5. Would it be better to move all the corals/fish over at the same time, or slowly add rock/corals first then the livestock?

I would just do a single move. all live rock all fish all coral.

6. Are there any "supplements" I should have on hand to make this smoother and avoid any issues? Like removing ammonia should I have a small spike, start-up bacteria to help establish the biofilter, etc?

I dont see why would would have an ammonia spike. THe rock isnt going to be out of the water that long. It can be out for an hour or two without any die off IME.

Thanks a bunch!!