Cycle new tank in hypo until all fish are added?

wkp42 · 09/17/2019, 10:43 AM

Can you start a display tank in hypo, add only rock and sand, and cycle the tank successfully in hypo? Simply trying to start nitrogen cycle in hypo over an 8 week period. Then could all the fish you plan to add be slowly introduced (straight into hypo from the LFS) until everyone is in tank? Then let them all live in hypo display tank for a couple of months? Now 4-5 months into it I’m asking if you would have a cycled parasite free display tank, just in hypo. Then slowly raise salinity over next 2 weeks. Then slowly add the inverts and corals? Essentially can your brand new display tank be the quarantine tank (hypo only) and then converted to full salt reef tank?

Michael Hoaster · 09/17/2019, 03:19 PM

I wouldn't.

Hypo salinity only works for ICH, so you leave your fish open to lots of other ailments.

You could use your display to quarantine fish before you add sand and rock, and treat for other issues, plus hypo for ICH. But afterwards you'd want to break the tank down to disinfect it before using as a display. Skip this step and you open yourself up to disease in your display. You don't want that!

Lots of folks, myself included, have tried to minimize the QT issue. This has lead me to kill more fish than I would ever admit. In my experience, fish are more fragile than ever. Their arrival in your home is the most critical point in their lives. I have finally gotten the hint that I have to put more effort than ever into QT. Now I kill much fewer fish and I'm confident that I can QT just about anything successfully.

Dmorty217 · 09/19/2019, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael Hoaster

I wouldn't.

Hypo salinity only works for ICH, so you leave your fish open to lots of other ailments.

You could use your display to quarantine fish before you add sand and rock, and treat for other issues, plus hypo for ICH. But afterwards you'd want to break the tank down to disinfect it before using as a display. Skip this step and you open yourself up to disease in your display. You don't want that!

Lots of folks, myself included, have tried to minimize the QT issue. This has lead me to kill more fish than I would ever admit. In my experience, fish are more fragile than ever. Their arrival in your home is the most critical point in their lives. I have finally gotten the hint that I have to put more effort than ever into QT. Now I kill much fewer fish and I'm confident that I can QT just about anything successfully.

+1 get a 20gL or 40g breeder or two and get some meds on hand. There are several great books available that are filled with great info on diseases and ailments along with proper treatment(s)

Sk8r · 09/20/2019, 07:02 PM

No, and this is why: the parasites you want to get rid of, like ich, drop into the sandbed, and wait. ROck and sand is where they prepare a new assault. Now, hypo is not their favorite condition, but they have a resting mode (encysting) where they might be able to tough it out and wait for better conditions and a fish. It MIGHT work, but the possibility is there. ANd you aren't dealing with flukes or other problems including bacterial infection. Your best bet is to do your fish-conditioning in an absolutely bare glass tank, changing out water and sterilizing and drying out tank and the filter (plus adding new medium) to a new tank every 2 days for about 10 days. 2 small tanks, which can be packed away when not in use, and a little spare equipment, and you're good to go. Continue to observe your fish for a number of days to be sure there's no other issue, and to be sure the fish is eating well. This puts the least stress on the fish while assuring the ich parasite doesn't make it to your tank. This method is called the 'tank transfer method' or TTM, and you can google it for more info.

09/17/2019, 10:43 AM	#1
wkp42 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Posts: 65	Cycle new tank in hypo until all fish are added? Can you start a display tank in hypo, add only rock and sand, and cycle the tank successfully in hypo? Simply trying to start nitrogen cycle in hypo over an 8 week period. Then could all the fish you plan to add be slowly introduced (straight into hypo from the LFS) until everyone is in tank? Then let them all live in hypo display tank for a couple of months? Now 4-5 months into it I’m asking if you would have a cycled parasite free display tank, just in hypo. Then slowly raise salinity over next 2 weeks. Then slowly add the inverts and corals? Essentially can your brand new display tank be the quarantine tank (hypo only) and then converted to full salt reef tank?

09/17/2019, 03:19 PM	#2
Michael Hoaster Registered Seaweedist Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 5,807	I wouldn't. Hypo salinity only works for ICH, so you leave your fish open to lots of other ailments. You could use your display to quarantine fish before you add sand and rock, and treat for other issues, plus hypo for ICH. But afterwards you'd want to break the tank down to disinfect it before using as a display. Skip this step and you open yourself up to disease in your display. You don't want that! Lots of folks, myself included, have tried to minimize the QT issue. This has lead me to kill more fish than I would ever admit. In my experience, fish are more fragile than ever. Their arrival in your home is the most critical point in their lives. I have finally gotten the hint that I have to put more effort than ever into QT. Now I kill much fewer fish and I'm confident that I can QT just about anything successfully. __________________ As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance, our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018

09/20/2019, 07:02 PM	#4
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	No, and this is why: the parasites you want to get rid of, like ich, drop into the sandbed, and wait. ROck and sand is where they prepare a new assault. Now, hypo is not their favorite condition, but they have a resting mode (encysting) where they might be able to tough it out and wait for better conditions and a fish. It MIGHT work, but the possibility is there. ANd you aren't dealing with flukes or other problems including bacterial infection. Your best bet is to do your fish-conditioning in an absolutely bare glass tank, changing out water and sterilizing and drying out tank and the filter (plus adding new medium) to a new tank every 2 days for about 10 days. 2 small tanks, which can be packed away when not in use, and a little spare equipment, and you're good to go. Continue to observe your fish for a number of days to be sure there's no other issue, and to be sure the fish is eating well. This puts the least stress on the fish while assuring the ich parasite doesn't make it to your tank. This method is called the 'tank transfer method' or TTM, and you can google it for more info. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.