Building light hood, would like advice.

ERICinFL · 01/12/2006, 11:45 PM

I'm in the process of building a DIY light hood for my 112gal tank. I'm currently running 390watts of PCs and I'm basically going to double my wattage and add MHs. My current lights sit about 2-3 inches off the top of my tank and they keep my soft corals growing just fine. I'm looking to get into LPS corals and perhaps a clam or two. Now, my tank is 30in. deep and I've already got two 110watt, T12, dual actinics ready to go. I'm currently planning to add two, 250watt, 10k MHs with electronic ballasts. Should I go with two 400s instead? I live in FL and my tank usually stays right around 80F, that is why I'm currently planning the 250s (to keep heat at a minimum). If I stay with the 250s, what would be the max height off my tank that you'd recommend. I'm thinking 6-7in, to try and keep heat down and I'll place whatever LPS I get in the middle and top positions in the tank. I don't have a canopy over my tank, so I'm trying to design a hood that will keep light washover to a minimum (though I understand it will be significantly brighter than my current set up). Any and all quips, comments and suggestions are welcome. Thank you.

WorldNation · 01/13/2006, 12:51 AM

by hood, do u mean canopy?

if so, i would build like a 12in high one and put in 3 400watt 20k MH's. install 2-4 4" fans (1-2 on each side).

ERICinFL · 01/13/2006, 01:01 AM

No, I do mean hood, like Current's "Outer Orbit".

tkeracer619 · 01/13/2006, 01:05 AM

Im in the same boat as you.

I have a 73" long tank am using 3 250W MH's and 2 72" 180W VHO actinics. I have 4 powerheads that pipe water out of the tank into the hood and down into there proper spot. they only show about half to 3/4 inch of nozzle in the water but from the viewing angle you wont see it. The tank is sort of low but makes for much easier maintenece. O yeah I have both long sides and one short side viewable.

I want the hood to be open at the top to let the heat out and am probably going to put acrylic panels over the top of the tank to reduce any chances of fish getting in my overflow and to keep the moisture in. I would hang the halides inside the hood so you can adjust the height. Seal with several coats and paint the inside of your hood white. I am going to install matching doors in the front of the top so it matches the bottom of the stand and gives me plenty of room to dig around in there. I think if it comes down to it and i have to really get in there i will just unplug the halides and sit them on the couch for a few minutes. Just like shop class in middle school

WorldNation · 01/13/2006, 11:51 AM

the largest current usa i think is either a 150 or 250 watt MH. for a 30in high tank though, i dont think thats worth it.

it'll be enough for LPS and Clams and some sps(some monties). but i dont think its worth it if youre doing MH's.(on a 30in high tank)

ERICinFL · 01/13/2006, 12:31 PM

That's not what I'm getting, I was just trying to give you an idea of what it will look like when I'm done. So do you think I should go with 400s?

WorldNation · 01/13/2006, 11:53 PM

yupers, 400watt will create a much more beautiful aquarium

*nods*

01/12/2006, 11:45 PM	#1
ERICinFL Rejisturd Mimbur Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Brevard County, FL Posts: 1,346	Building light hood, would like advice. I'm in the process of building a DIY light hood for my 112gal tank. I'm currently running 390watts of PCs and I'm basically going to double my wattage and add MHs. My current lights sit about 2-3 inches off the top of my tank and they keep my soft corals growing just fine. I'm looking to get into LPS corals and perhaps a clam or two. Now, my tank is 30in. deep and I've already got two 110watt, T12, dual actinics ready to go. I'm currently planning to add two, 250watt, 10k MHs with electronic ballasts. Should I go with two 400s instead? I live in FL and my tank usually stays right around 80F, that is why I'm currently planning the 250s (to keep heat at a minimum). If I stay with the 250s, what would be the max height off my tank that you'd recommend. I'm thinking 6-7in, to try and keep heat down and I'll place whatever LPS I get in the middle and top positions in the tank. I don't have a canopy over my tank, so I'm trying to design a hood that will keep light washover to a minimum (though I understand it will be significantly brighter than my current set up). Any and all quips, comments and suggestions are welcome. Thank you. __________________ Ummmm... yeah... don't touch the Mag Float. Sorry kids, your college fund is gone, but the tank looks SWEET right? Current Tank Info: 150gal mixed reef. ER CS135, 65gal sump/fuge with a Mag12 return. (2) Korillia 4s, (1) modded MJ1200, two SunSun 3200gph powerheads. 250+lbs LR.

01/13/2006, 01:01 AM	#3
ERICinFL Rejisturd Mimbur Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Brevard County, FL Posts: 1,346	No, I do mean hood, like Current's "Outer Orbit". __________________ Ummmm... yeah... don't touch the Mag Float. Sorry kids, your college fund is gone, but the tank looks SWEET right? Current Tank Info: 150gal mixed reef. ER CS135, 65gal sump/fuge with a Mag12 return. (2) Korillia 4s, (1) modded MJ1200, two SunSun 3200gph powerheads. 250+lbs LR.

01/13/2006, 01:05 AM	#4
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Im in the same boat as you. I have a 73" long tank am using 3 250W MH's and 2 72" 180W VHO actinics. I have 4 powerheads that pipe water out of the tank into the hood and down into there proper spot. they only show about half to 3/4 inch of nozzle in the water but from the viewing angle you wont see it. The tank is sort of low but makes for much easier maintenece. O yeah I have both long sides and one short side viewable. I want the hood to be open at the top to let the heat out and am probably going to put acrylic panels over the top of the tank to reduce any chances of fish getting in my overflow and to keep the moisture in. I would hang the halides inside the hood so you can adjust the height. Seal with several coats and paint the inside of your hood white. I am going to install matching doors in the front of the top so it matches the bottom of the stand and gives me plenty of room to dig around in there. I think if it comes down to it and i have to really get in there i will just unplug the halides and sit them on the couch for a few minutes. Just like shop class in middle school __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

01/13/2006, 12:31 PM	#6
ERICinFL Rejisturd Mimbur Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Brevard County, FL Posts: 1,346	That's not what I'm getting, I was just trying to give you an idea of what it will look like when I'm done. So do you think I should go with 400s? __________________ Ummmm... yeah... don't touch the Mag Float. Sorry kids, your college fund is gone, but the tank looks SWEET right? Current Tank Info: 150gal mixed reef. ER CS135, 65gal sump/fuge with a Mag12 return. (2) Korillia 4s, (1) modded MJ1200, two SunSun 3200gph powerheads. 250+lbs LR.

01/13/2006, 12:51 AM	#2
WorldNation Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 463	by hood, do u mean canopy? if so, i would build like a 12in high one and put in 3 400watt 20k MH's. install 2-4 4" fans (1-2 on each side).

01/13/2006, 11:51 AM	#5
WorldNation Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 463	the largest current usa i think is either a 150 or 250 watt MH. for a 30in high tank though, i dont think thats worth it. it'll be enough for LPS and Clams and some sps(some monties). but i dont think its worth it if youre doing MH's.(on a 30in high tank)

01/13/2006, 11:53 PM	#7
WorldNation Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 463	yupers, 400watt will create a much more beautiful aquarium nods