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08/13/2008, 08:02 PM | #226 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Shelby,NC
Posts: 323
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The cup would no longer be under warranty but it is best just to clean the cup on a regular basis. Too if you mess up the cup they are expensive to replace.
Eric |
08/21/2008, 02:09 AM | #227 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 72
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08/23/2008, 08:35 PM | #228 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 70
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in sump 200 x2aquabees
Just received my in sump 200 today and already pulling out some amazing skimmate. Glad to be a new member!!! This thing has me so excited!!!!!
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10/08/2008, 07:25 PM | #229 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Beechhurst,New York
Posts: 620
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Trying to fine tune my H&S A150-F2000/1 skimmer
talking to fins and reef they recomend water level 1-2" above twist lock. with 200 gph flowing though... So if was wondering what rest are running it at.. 1)water level 2)GPH 3)air valve Thanks John
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Tank-125G Starphire Lighting- 4x 60" Reefbrites Skimmer- H&S A200-1250 MRC Sump Refugium---Circulation Tunze Wave Box---Main Pump - Seq3200 3phase W/ VFD Cooling Current Tank Info: 125 gallon Starphire euro braced |
10/08/2008, 08:48 PM | #230 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Taylors, SC
Posts: 929
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wanna carbon dose and wet skim anyone?
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Just trying to enjoy a delicious slice of reef pie in the suburban jungle. -Scott Current Tank Info: 40 Breeder Dining Room Tank- 2 Kessil A160, Vortech MP10, Tunze Nanostream, Tunze 9004 skimmer, Marineland HOB, Eheim heater 34g Office Honeymoon Shallow Reef |
10/09/2008, 12:08 PM | #231 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Beechhurst,New York
Posts: 620
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Trying to fine tune my H&S A150-F2000/1 skimmer
talking to fins and reef they recommend water level 1-2" above twist lock. with 200 gph flowing though... So if was wondering what rest are running it at.. 1)water level 2)GPH 3)air valve Thanks John
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Tank-125G Starphire Lighting- 4x 60" Reefbrites Skimmer- H&S A200-1250 MRC Sump Refugium---Circulation Tunze Wave Box---Main Pump - Seq3200 3phase W/ VFD Cooling Current Tank Info: 125 gallon Starphire euro braced |
10/31/2008, 05:55 PM | #232 |
Moved On
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 355
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I have a 120g tank and I'm trying to decide between the A110 and the A150. Can anybody help me out?
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10/31/2008, 06:06 PM | #233 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: western washington
Posts: 741
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I'd definitely go w/ the A150. Quite a bit more skimmer for only about $200 more.
I've owned the A110 and I think it is very well sized for a 100gal tank like it is rated for. 100gal sps and I would definitely go A150. I've never owned the A150 but I have owned a A110,A200 2x1260 and a 250 Int. 2x1260 and I can say they are my favorite skimmers. Great value Chad |
10/31/2008, 06:20 PM | #234 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: western washington
Posts: 741
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Irisservice,
I never really paid much attention to where the waterline was on my ext. skimmers. I always would look for the where they scumline was located in the riser tube. If the tank or skimmer are new I would run w/ the skimmer pretty dry for a good week or two as everything will be settling in. as for flow through the A150...max feed on that skimmer is 250gph/1000lph. I set airflow w/ a dwyer air meter but generally I pinch the air w/ the clamp just a bit. After everything is settled I like to skim w/ about the top inch or so of the riser tube dirty. You set that level w/ the wedge pipe. chad |
11/01/2008, 04:59 AM | #235 | |
Es gibt keinen ersatz
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Close to the edge, down by a river
Posts: 3,581
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Quote:
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Just found out that grandpa has a drug addiction. He is addicted to viagra. No one is taking it harder than grandma. |
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11/01/2008, 05:01 AM | #236 | |
Es gibt keinen ersatz
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Close to the edge, down by a river
Posts: 3,581
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Quote:
__________________
Just found out that grandpa has a drug addiction. He is addicted to viagra. No one is taking it harder than grandma. |
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11/01/2008, 07:12 AM | #237 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: France/UK/Switzerland
Posts: 106
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Hi All
I've just joined the club, purchased a used 150/F2001. Only unusual thing about is that the pump connects directly to the skimmer body without a 90-degree hose so is suspended in use. I dont care though it just seems so well built and solid. I havent any instructions for the Aquabee 2001 pump and cant find one online ... does anyone know if they are available on line as I would like to clean it out and check the internals over before commissioning ?
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-Total Newbie - Havent kept a reef tank for 16 years. -Skiing Addict. - Love everything to do with the marine environment Current Tank Info: Watch this space .... |
11/01/2008, 07:56 AM | #238 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Amish Country, PA. USA
Posts: 978
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To clean the Aquabee, do the following;
1. a. soak the impeller and shaft only (no end caps) in 100% vinegar for about an hour b. take a brush and clean the inside of the impeller chamber, i like to use a toothbrush if i don't have anything else available c. remove the air hose and run a pipe cleaner to clear the volute nipple of any salt creep or calcium buildup 2. check the flap that is just above the impeller chamber and make sure it moves back and forth loosely 3. put the pump back together by putting in the shaft first, then the impeller, next the pump cover, and then place the pump in a 5g bucket and run it in some vinegar for about an hour. 4. when done, run the pump in some warm water for a few minutes to flush. Joe
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I put the laughter in slaughter. Current Tank Info: 120 Gallon Oceanic Tech Tank, Two MP40W Gen 2 Vortechs, H & S A-150-F2001 External Skimmer, Oceanic Model 3 Sump, Current Outer Orbit Pro 250 Watt MH/T5 Combo |
11/01/2008, 08:23 AM | #239 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: France/UK/Switzerland
Posts: 106
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Joe Thanks very much, absolutely wonderful .. I ran it for 1/2 an hour in a vinegar solution yesterday.
Would you ar anyone else be able to point me at online dismantling instructions ? .. I have a tendency to break things or have leftover parts on reassembly if left to my own devices!
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-Total Newbie - Havent kept a reef tank for 16 years. -Skiing Addict. - Love everything to do with the marine environment Current Tank Info: Watch this space .... |
11/01/2008, 10:50 AM | #240 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Amish Country, PA. USA
Posts: 978
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To dismantle;
Turn the pump upside down and, with your hand, turn the cover off the pump----left to loosen, right to tighten (it should pop right off with less than a quarter turn). When it's open, I always have to use a needle-nose pliers to pull the impeller out of the shaft. That magnetic force is strong! There's not much more to it than that........ One more thing...You should have the RED end caps. If yours are black, order two red ones from FinsReef (in the sponsor forums here at R/C.) Or you may want to order directly from H & S... I just noticed you're in Europe...How typically "American" of me! Let us know how you make out! Joe
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I put the laughter in slaughter. Current Tank Info: 120 Gallon Oceanic Tech Tank, Two MP40W Gen 2 Vortechs, H & S A-150-F2001 External Skimmer, Oceanic Model 3 Sump, Current Outer Orbit Pro 250 Watt MH/T5 Combo Last edited by Joe; 11/01/2008 at 10:56 AM. |
11/23/2008, 01:02 PM | #241 |
Aka lemmywinks
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Harrisburg, NC
Posts: 8,017
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I still have this 200a-1260 model and am quite happy with it. I want to hopefully increase the performance and was thinking about plumbing my drain to go directly to the skimmer.
Right now I have a mag 5 (I think) feeding the skimmer. My drain doesn't flow a ton so I wouldn't want that to be the only method to feed the skimmer. Here is two drawings below to show my ideas. Which do you think is better, method 1 or method 2? My concerns about method 1 is the main pump sucking any bubbles from the drain. The concern about method 2 would be the pump feeding the skimmer pushing water towards the drain backing it up.
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
11/23/2008, 06:31 PM | #242 |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: western washington
Posts: 741
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I would run drain directly through the skimmer. It is a A/Ext model ?? Then have the skimmer drain into the sump and the return pump back up to the tank. How many drains do you have on your tank?
Max flow through the A150 is 250gph/1000lph. If you only have one drain I would split it and have a ball valve on the skimmer side and have remainder flow to sump. You will need to be able to have back pressure on the ball valve feeding the skimmer to get consistent feed rate. Chad |
11/23/2008, 07:19 PM | #243 |
Aka lemmywinks
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Harrisburg, NC
Posts: 8,017
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It is an external 200 series model. My tank has two drains but both are plumbed together. What is the flow through on the 200 series?
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
11/23/2008, 08:20 PM | #244 |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: western washington
Posts: 741
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A200 is 1500lph so roughly 375gph as a max. I would split the 2 drain lines and lower the Durso (???)/standpipe by a inch or so and add a ball valve and hose barb fitting and go directto the skimmer body.
Chad |
11/23/2008, 11:18 PM | #245 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Barrington il
Posts: 1,002
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hey whats the up side to having it directly plumed to the skimmer?? in using maxi 600 on my a150f2000 and i think it does ok....never tried anything else had this skimmer since february
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~Mario Current Tank Info: 4x2x2 120 gallon SPS/LPS reef ,40 gallon sump/fuge, H&S skimmer A150-F2001, 2x250 MH, 4x65 CF, Knopp HD calcium reactor,2x Vortech MP40W, 2x Koralia #3, AC JR / 30x20x12 frag tank |
12/08/2008, 02:34 PM | #246 |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 65
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I am finally a member of the club. But I have a few questions, hopefully someone can answer. I have the H&S 110 f2000 model on a 55g with 20g slump heavily stocked tank. It’s only a week old and it may need some time to break-in but just to make sure. I’ve been having a problem with losing foam during feeding and/or when I stick my hands in the tank. It also takes while for it to foam to the top again (about 2 or 3 hours sometimes). Is this normal?
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12/08/2008, 02:37 PM | #247 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Shelby,NC
Posts: 323
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Yes it is normal for any skimmer. When you add something to the water it can and usually does collapse the foam head for a while. Nothing to worry about.
Eric |
12/08/2008, 02:55 PM | #248 | ||
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Quote:
I looked through your site and couldn't find the impeller shaft for the aquabee pumps ? Do you have any impeller shaft for my model and does it come with the RED end caps? |
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12/08/2008, 03:06 PM | #249 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Shelby,NC
Posts: 323
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We do not list most parts online. You will need to call us directly that way we can ensure you get the correct part the first time. Yes all the shafts come with the red bushings now and we have all shafts instock.
Eric |
12/09/2008, 07:49 AM | #250 |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 463
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I have an A110-2000 that Ive had for a few years now. it's been sitting in storage but I set up a new tank with a 50g total volume and it just isn't performing as it used to. It's been clean and ran through vinegar, had air intake cleaned and everything.
The bubble production is still very fine but it isn't making too much bubble and very poor skimmate. I'm on day 5 of use now and still very little foam. Should I let it run a bit longer or anyone have any other suggestions? The aquabee is bit loud as well =( |
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