250 gallon build thread

[logiktest]

What I was getting at was simply reversing the fuge, and elevating the crate. The Cheato would only need seconds to hop in the overflow, and the frags would likely be happier closer to the light anyway. Plus, I'm not sure how well a gravel vac would work for you if the crate was full of frags.

[michealprater]

Great points! Will definately take a look, Just have to cut out where the overflow is on the bottom sheet, space it up with some pvc pcs and move the divider to the other end. Thanks a lot!

[michealprater]

For those of you that are following closely, here is a couple of threads that involve the quarantine tank. Did not want to bog the build thread down with the debate.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1547256

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1547287

[michealprater]

OK Mike, I took your advice. Looks good.



Here is a pic of the 46 gallon quarantine. This was my first saltwater tank nearly 13 yrs ago! Still holding water, but not sure for how long. Should make it as a qt for awhile.


Temp is getting close finally!

[logiktest]

Well, thats what I'm here for... to make you do things twice.

I think it will work better for you now. That 46 looks good too. As for the temperature, I don't think I'm even running that hot this time of year. Whatever you've been raising the temperature for, its ready now.

[michealprater]

I was going to try to get up closer to 80-81 or so. Is that too high? Remember I dont have halides over it yet.

[logiktest]

Well, if you imagine the "ideal" temp to be 78*F, then yes, starting at 80-81 is too high. Especially before halides. How far from the water will your MH pendants hang? And how many pendants are you going with now?

While the tank is cycling is a good time to figure out how much temp your pumps and lighting system add to your tank.

I'm running steady 76/75 day/night right now. A little higher than 78, or a little lower than 78 is fine. Stability is the key.

[michealprater]

For years I have always gone with the theory that 82 degrees is closer to tropical waters, but I am not dead set on it.

I am going to have 4 250s. and 8 54w t5 actinics.

[maxxII]

Mike,

If this is for frags:



Then I would suggest raising it a few inches higher and putting a powerhead underneath so that you get good flow in a gyre style, (think race track with the flow being circular) and detrtus cant build up under there.

Nick

[spooda420]

+1

multi power heads... get the detritus moving around.

[Tater11]

tank is looking good man..

[michealprater]

I planned on putting an MJ1200 in there , but I do not want the flow too high since my macro will be in the right compartment. For it to be benificial, the flow cannot be too high to keep contact time up. I will just direct the flow towards the frag side.

First off, I have to get the electrical done in the room. Right now I am running everything off of power strips, and I cannot add anything else until I have hardwired recepticals.

Also, quick question on the detrius, considering all of the live rock will be in the sump and the display, how much detrius will actually make it to that fuge? The return will be from the right side of the sump.

[maxxII]

More detritus will build up than you think is possible. two maxi jet mods on either side blowing under from the side closest to the fuge, and one more on the top, blowing towards the chaeto will help keep that from collecting.

Will your fuge drain to the sump or the tank? How is it being fed?

Nick

[michealprater]

fed and drained into the sump. Easiest way to do it.

[maxxII]

Had to scan through the thread to find the pic of the sump....

I'm assuming the left side is going to be the first compartment of the sump (meaning raw water from tank in here), and right side is going to be the last compartment, (meaning water returned to tank from here)?

If this is the case, I would suggest having water pumped to the fuge and back from the first compartment. I would also set up some sort of way to use filter socks in the first compartment, (you dont need to use them, but its easier to plan for them and not use them, then not play for them and decide later you want to use them.) I think they are useful on occassion. I would also place some narrow egg crate and possibly some narrow sponges (Fluval type), to slow down the flow through the sump and use the first compartment of the sump as a detritus settling area.

What is your flow rate through the sump? What is the flow rate you plan for the fuge? Chaeto does best when it has current tumbling it around, exposing all sides to light. A slow flowrate through the fuge but a couple of powerheads creating flow, which would be needed for SPS frags, keep detritus in suspension until it got pulled into the sump where you could remove it, and tumble the chaeto seems like a good solution.

Nick

[michealprater]

Had to scan through the thread to find the pic of the sump....

I'm assuming the left side is going to be the first compartment of the sump (meaning raw water from tank in here), and right side is going to be the last compartment, (meaning water returned to tank from here)?

If this is the case, I would suggest having water pumped to the fuge and back from the first compartment. *why is this? wouldnt that encourage more detrius in the fuge?* I would also set up some sort of way to use filter socks in the first compartment, (you dont need to use them, but its easier to plan for them and not use them, then not play for them and decide later you want to use them.) I think they are useful on occassion. *already planned on filter socks, unfortunately my tight budget has not allowed me to do the yet.* I would also place some narrow egg crate and possibly some narrow sponges (Fluval type), to slow down the flow through the sump and use the first compartment of the sump as a detritus settling area. *I have some eggcrate in between the last two baffles to try to slow down the flow an eliminate micro bubbles, can be removed at any time*

What is your flow rate through the sump? *no clue, but the return pump is 3600gph* What is the flow rate you plan for the fuge? *no clue, I have not decided* Chaeto does best when it has current tumbling it around, exposing all sides to light. A slow flowrate through the fuge but a couple of powerheads creating flow, which would be needed for SPS frags, keep detritus in suspension until it got pulled into the sump where you could remove it, and tumble the chaeto seems like a good solution. *pretty much exactly what I planned*

Nick [/B]

I entered in answers to all the question above in between the asterisks.

[maxxII]

*why is this? wouldnt that encourage more detrius in the fuge?*

Maybe, but you're getting the rawest water from the tank here. Unless you're gravity feeding your skimmer, its getting fed from here as well. I guess in hindsight, it makes sense to pull water from the rear compartment and gravity drain it to the first one, giving the skimmer another shot at it. The powerheads in the fuge/frag tank are to help prevent detritus build up...

What is your flow rate through the sump? *no clue, but the return pump is 3600gph*

Anything more than 10x turnover through the sump sounds alot like a toilet flushing 24/7. I find between 4-6x turnover works best for me.

What is the flow rate you plan for the fuge? *no clue, I have not decided*

Slower flow gives the chaeto more time to pull nitrates/phosphates from the water column.

Nick

[michealprater]

Originally posted by maxxII
Maybe, but you're getting the rawest water from the tank here. Unless you're gravity feeding your skimmer, its getting fed from here as well. I guess in hindsight, it makes sense to pull water from the rear compartment and gravity drain it to the first one, giving the skimmer another shot at it. The powerheads in the fuge/frag tank are to help prevent detritus build up...



Anything more than 10x turnover through the sump sounds alot like a toilet flushing 24/7. I find between 4-6x turnover works best for me.

with the 1 1/2 overflows coming out of that large of a display, and a 75 gallon sump, I have no clue how to achieve that low of a turn over and I definately will not throttle the pump back.



Slower flow gives the chaeto more time to pull nitrates/phosphates from the water column.

It will be a very slow flow.

Nick

[michealprater]

skimmer was kind of leaking, so I just installed inside the fuge. Now it is acting as the return pump. This may work perfect. It just hit me, I will post pics later.

[michealprater]

here it is, so far, it has worked perfectly. Now I am just thinking of plumbing in a 10 gallon for cheato.

[michealprater]

OK, I had to build a stand for the skimmer because I was told it had to have the gate valve all the way out of the water to properly work. If the gate valve is under water it creates a siphon through the unit and the contact time is drastically reduced.

Here is a new pic. I am not sure if I will keep the pipe on their or not, it really serves no function.


Because I used my macro compartment in my fuge, I need another spot for macro. This is where I am going to just plumb in a 10 gallon, just for cheato.

[michealprater]

I also realized last night when I was working barefoot, that there is some stray voltage in the tank. Now I have to go through the pain staking process of testing each component with a volt meter. I really hope it isnt the mag 36 or reefflo dart. I am thinking it may be a heater.

[michealprater]

I was busy again and I took pics.

I got the 10 gallon macro tank plumbed in already!


Here is a beautiful mangrove that was given to me by aquarius77. It will find a home in the macro tank when the return is plumbed.


Got the work bench started, just need a top and some shelves!


Got the dehumidifier in place and a hose plumbed to the floor drain.

[oneoffcustom]

I must say, this whole time i thought you were doing a 250 gallon display tank. I now see that all this work has been for a planted 10 gallon tank. Wow you must really love nanos to do a 250 gallon sump 75 gallon fuge and 70 gallon frag tank for just a measly 10 gallon display. The craftsmanship of that stand is phenomenal. I am thinking of building this exact setup. Nano tank of the year award goes to you, and i will deffinatly be tagging along for this one.

[michealprater]

Yup, you know how much of a "nano lover" I am. LOL