SC Aquariums Owners Thread - Page 100

KJoFan · 11/20/2017, 08:13 PM

Or, for that matter, I could also go with a 100g that's 60x21x21, but would I regret less depth, even if only 3" less?

cincyjim · 11/21/2017, 06:13 AM

If it was me, I'd go with the 150g. I love the 5 foot length of it. Lots of swimming room and you get a better spread for the rock and corals. I read that you mentioned you won't have much in the way of help to move things. The SCA 150g tank weighs about 325lbs, so you will need to consider how you are going to get help to move the tank onto the stand much less into the house. I bought two of those dollies from Lowe's to move the tank into the house and myself and two guys moved it onto the stand. Just a thought on the labor help part. As far as the SCA stand and canopy go, SCA provides a really nice set but if you could make one it would definitely be cheaper. I bought the SCA stand and canopy because I just don't have the time to get things done in a timely manner. A steel stand would be sweet but again you would have to do the finishing and fine tune the look. If time isn't a factor, then I would build it. I would recommend that you get a canopy for this size tank as the light pollution coming into the room it in sits can get bad. The SCA stand is 36" high and the 150g tank is 24" high, so that's 5 feet without the light being over it. I'd say you are right about the equipment to support either size tank but of course that depends on the quality of that equipment.

KJoFan · 11/21/2017, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cincyjim

If it was me, I'd go with the 150g. I love the 5 foot length of it. Lots of swimming room and you get a better spread for the rock and corals. I read that you mentioned you won't have much in the way of help to move things. The SCA 150g tank weighs about 325lbs, so you will need to consider how you are going to get help to move the tank onto the stand much less into the house. I bought two of those dollies from Lowe's to move the tank into the house and myself and two guys moved it onto the stand. Just a thought on the labor help part. As far as the SCA stand and canopy go, SCA provides a really nice set but if you could make one it would definitely be cheaper. I bought the SCA stand and canopy because I just don't have the time to get things done in a timely manner. A steel stand would be sweet but again you would have to do the finishing and fine tune the look. If time isn't a factor, then I would build it. I would recommend that you get a canopy for this size tank as the light pollution coming into the room it in sits can get bad. The SCA stand is 36" high and the 150g tank is 24" high, so that's 5 feet without the light being over it. I'd say you are right about the equipment to support either size tank but of course that depends on the quality of that equipment.

I probably would end up just purchasing the stand as my skills aren't that great and I want it to look decent.

My current fixture is the 15" Reefbrite MH pendant. I'd go for the double 36" pendant for the 150g tank. Would that work in a canopy or would I need to leave it open?

I could round up some moving help if needed, just wouldn't be hobbyists. But, that's ok as long as they have strong backs and ideally only needs to be moved around once and done. In the house, onto the stand.

cincyjim · 11/22/2017, 06:12 AM

I think that would work but I would get the dimensions of it to be sure. The canopy that SCA builds has an opening in the top that is 45"Lx12.5"W. I rest my light fixture on top of that opening and my Reef Brites are mounted inside the top of the canopy. Should you get the SCA 150g, get a 1/4" yoga mat to place on top of the stand so the tank has a flat even surface. There will be a thin Styrofoam pad that comes with the tank but I threw it away as I thought it was packing material. Steve (SCA) told me to get the yoga mat which was better anyway.

I checked Amazon and didn't see the yoga mat that I bought. The important part is that it is no more than 1/4". I bought a brown one and trimmed the excess with an X-acto knife. It squishes down to the point you can't even see it's there. I actually bought two of them and used one for the interior of the cabinet for my sump and other equipment to rest on.

KJoFan · 11/22/2017, 09:05 AM

The Reefbrite fixture with the led strips is listed as 14.75” wide so would not fit according to your dimensions. Hmm.

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cincyjim · 11/22/2017, 09:26 AM

The measurements I provided were the opening in the top of the canopy so you could mount the light on the inside of the canopy. The canopy total size will be that of the tank itself (60"x24" by 12" high). My apologies if I confused you any.

KJoFan · 11/22/2017, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cincyjim

The measurements I provided were the opening in the top of the canopy so you could mount the light on the inside of the canopy. The canopy total size will be that of the tank itself (60"x24" by 12" high). My apologies if I confused you any.

Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification and dimensions. Seems like the lights would work then.

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michael.lemke · 11/24/2017, 10:37 PM

Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!

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Xxero · 11/24/2017, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michael.lemke

Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice!

dickeybrazil · 11/25/2017, 09:07 AM

I like the clean look of the stand. What is it made out of? Was it a custom order? I haven't seen white as an option on their site.

Quote:

Originally Posted by michael.lemke

Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

michael.lemke · 11/25/2017, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dickeybrazil

I like the clean look of the stand. What is it made out of? Was it a custom order? I haven't seen white as an option on their site.

The stand is hard wood. It’s all custom. They will do pretty much whatever you want. I️ wanted the look of a Red Sea reefer but deeper and without the internal overflow. Talk to Steve. He’ll help ya out.

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Bracka345 · 11/25/2017, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michael.lemke

Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really nice. Whats the dimensions?

michael.lemke · 11/25/2017, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bracka345

Really nice. Whats the dimensions?

66x30x22 thanks!

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KJoFan · 11/26/2017, 11:12 AM

For my current 66g was plumbed as a herbie with a cepex ball valve on the main drain and one on the return. Even though they are the highest quality ball valves I found it difficult to fine tune the plumbing. So, for the 150g I'm going to switch to the spears gate valve. Do I need one on the return AND one on the main drain?

soulpatch · 11/26/2017, 11:20 AM

I would put one on both.

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FLSharkvictim · 12/06/2017, 11:23 AM

Here is a update on my SC Custom Rimless 150 with a 20'' Synergy External Overflow box which will run 1.5'' drains and 1'' returns to 3/4''. I'm going to float the canopy so you will not be able to see my Hydra HD 52 and my Two Hydra twenty sixes. I am about ready to start the plumbing on this bad boy!

KJoFan · 12/11/2017, 04:54 PM

Got my 150 in the house today with some help from some co-workers. I had the foam pad on the stand but as the tank was being slid on it just pushed it off. So, it's on the stand without any pad under it. Am I doomed or just carry on? I don't know how two of us would ever lift it again to get something under it.

KJoFan · 12/11/2017, 06:33 PM

Next question...I purchased an RO Varios 6 for my return pump but have the opportunity to purchase a used Waveline DC10000 Gen 2...would this be a better option?

I did purchase the Triton sump though am not necessarily sold on going Triton just yet, I just wanted a big refugium area.

I've read of some issues and significant head loss with the Varios pumps and might be nice to try to get the required 10x turnover Triton wants.

Thoughts and opinions?

soulpatch · 12/11/2017, 07:01 PM

I honestly do not see the appeal to Triton method. Spend a ton on elements and such to keep water at certain levels and if one item happens to crash then the system quickly falls apart like what happened to D2Mini and many others.

I run a large refugium but rely on calcium reactor and water changes. Set it and forget it IMHO...

soulpatch · 12/11/2017, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJoFan

Got my 150 in the house today with some help from some co-workers. I had the foam pad on the stand but as the tank was being slid on it just pushed it off. So, it's on the stand without any pad under it. Am I doomed or just carry on? I don't know how two of us would ever lift it again to get something under it.

You are not doomed persay but the pad protects against imperfections in the stand that could cause pressure points. Also required for his warranty.

Personally I would go with a yoga mat or neoprene pad but I would have something under there.

jar41 · 12/11/2017, 07:04 PM

Can you guys compare them to Red Sea or Waterbox? I am going to buy a new tank really soon!

KJoFan · 12/11/2017, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulpatch

I honestly do not see the appeal to Triton method. Spend a ton on elements and such to keep water at certain levels and if one item happens to crash then the system quickly falls apart like what happened to D2Mini and many others.

I run a large refugium but rely on calcium reactor and water changes. Set it and forget it IMHO...

I agree, not sold on it either. I really just wanted the large fuge area for growing macros, but that's probably about it.

will the Varios cut it or should I be looking at the Waveline either way?

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulpatch

You are not doomed persay but the pad protects against imperfections in the stand that could cause pressure points. Also required for his warranty.

Personally I would go with a yoga mat or neoprene pad but I would have something under there.

I think I'm going to pick up some suction cups. Two of us should be able to lift each end and get something slid under there that way. Even if we have to cut it in half in the middle I believe it should be fine. The middle isn't generally where the pressure points are anyway. Seem like a solid plan?

Chicagoreef2016 · 12/14/2017, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulpatch

I honestly do not see the appeal to Triton method. Spend a ton on elements and such to keep water at certain levels and if one item happens to crash then the system quickly falls apart like what happened to D2Mini and many others.

I run a large refugium but rely on calcium reactor and water changes. Set it and forget it IMHO...

I am trying to determine if Triton or ATI Essentials are worth it; in theory it makes sense to me. But my Aquavitro Salinity salt has trace elements in it, so if I have a regular water change schedule then it would appear I am doing the same thing. That being said plenty of experienced reefers have crashes who aren't doing Triton or ATI, explained and unexplained. Not sure one experienced reefers failure would drive me away from trying something new. The upside I do see of Triton or ATI is the testing they provide, certainly a step forward with information as to what is in our tanks over whatever method I have access to now. Just my 2 cents.

By the way, at least in the picture that stand looks pretty nice.

soulpatch · 12/15/2017, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chicagoreef2016

I am trying to determine if Triton or ATI Essentials are worth it; in theory it makes sense to me. But my Aquavitro Salinity salt has trace elements in it, so if I have a regular water change schedule then it would appear I am doing the same thing.

Potentially but likely not the exact same elements that your corals are using if you want to really dive into the triton method.

Quote:

That being said plenty of experienced reefers have crashes who aren't doing Triton or ATI, explained and unexplained. Not sure one experienced reefers failure would drive me away from trying something new.

Stating a single name as an example does not mean only one has had issues. Searching on here as well as numerous other sites will show that the triton method is very easy to have failure with. They rely HEAVILY on the refugium and should you have one strain of algae go then you start a domino effect in the tank.

Quote:

The upside I do see of Triton or ATI is the testing they provide, certainly a step forward with information as to what is in our tanks over whatever method I have access to now. Just my 2 cents.

I agree the testing is great but you can do that without getting into their element system... You can find out if you have metals in your system or if your salt is not providing enough iodine or potassium and such and suppliment as needed.

The choice is yours but there is too much chatter at the moment of issues surrounding the triton method.

ggdowski · 12/15/2017, 10:56 AM

I've been using the triton method for a few months. I was warned about chasing parameters.

A few things...
1. If you are already dosing 2part -- you probably should be doing as much chemical testing as you would be doing if you did the triton method. Many crashes are simply because you are driving the car blindfolded. In some ways, the triton method forces you to do what you probably should be doing anyway.

2. Many folks use a refugium without using a triton dosing scheme. Either you rely on a refugium --- or you are wasting your time creating one.

3. The triton method never said you can't do a water change. You certainly can and will at some point. I'm not convinced you have to do their water tests, to execute the methodology.

4. IMO -- the goal is to heavily reduce water changes. Most people believe that 20% water changes are sufficient. If you didn't like the flavor of coke and you took out 20% and replaced it with water -- it would still taste like coke. That is my problem with water changes. We rely on them --- only to find ourselves driving blindfolded believing we have corrected a problem that was only 20% resolved with a water change.

When people ask for help here --- the first question is always what are your water parameters. In many cases, those parameters look normal. Perhaps we don't always measure what is needed -- that is where the triton and ATI chemical testing can help. I suspect some of the faithful 20% water changers out there -- at some point will consider running one of those tests.

11/21/2017, 06:13 AM	#2477
cincyjim Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 1,147	If it was me, I'd go with the 150g. I love the 5 foot length of it. Lots of swimming room and you get a better spread for the rock and corals. I read that you mentioned you won't have much in the way of help to move things. The SCA 150g tank weighs about 325lbs, so you will need to consider how you are going to get help to move the tank onto the stand much less into the house. I bought two of those dollies from Lowe's to move the tank into the house and myself and two guys moved it onto the stand. Just a thought on the labor help part. As far as the SCA stand and canopy go, SCA provides a really nice set but if you could make one it would definitely be cheaper. I bought the SCA stand and canopy because I just don't have the time to get things done in a timely manner. A steel stand would be sweet but again you would have to do the finishing and fine tune the look. If time isn't a factor, then I would build it. I would recommend that you get a canopy for this size tank as the light pollution coming into the room it in sits can get bad. The SCA stand is 36" high and the 150g tank is 24" high, so that's 5 feet without the light being over it. I'd say you are right about the equipment to support either size tank but of course that depends on the quality of that equipment. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: SCA 150G, 5 inch sand bed, 2 Tunze 6095s, ReefBreeders v2+ 50" with 2 all Blue Reefbrites, and Continuous Water Change System

11/22/2017, 06:12 AM	#2479
cincyjim Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 1,147	I think that would work but I would get the dimensions of it to be sure. The canopy that SCA builds has an opening in the top that is 45"Lx12.5"W. I rest my light fixture on top of that opening and my Reef Brites are mounted inside the top of the canopy. Should you get the SCA 150g, get a 1/4" yoga mat to place on top of the stand so the tank has a flat even surface. There will be a thin Styrofoam pad that comes with the tank but I threw it away as I thought it was packing material. Steve (SCA) told me to get the yoga mat which was better anyway. I checked Amazon and didn't see the yoga mat that I bought. The important part is that it is no more than 1/4". I bought a brown one and trimmed the excess with an X-acto knife. It squishes down to the point you can't even see it's there. I actually bought two of them and used one for the interior of the cabinet for my sump and other equipment to rest on. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: SCA 150G, 5 inch sand bed, 2 Tunze 6095s, ReefBreeders v2+ 50" with 2 all Blue Reefbrites, and Continuous Water Change System

11/22/2017, 09:26 AM	#2481
cincyjim Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 1,147	The measurements I provided were the opening in the top of the canopy so you could mount the light on the inside of the canopy. The canopy total size will be that of the tank itself (60"x24" by 12" high). My apologies if I confused you any. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: SCA 150G, 5 inch sand bed, 2 Tunze 6095s, ReefBreeders v2+ 50" with 2 all Blue Reefbrites, and Continuous Water Change System

11/26/2017, 11:20 AM	#2490
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	I would put one on both. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

12/11/2017, 07:01 PM	#2494
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	I honestly do not see the appeal to Triton method. Spend a ton on elements and such to keep water at certain levels and if one item happens to crash then the system quickly falls apart like what happened to D2Mini and many others. I run a large refugium but rely on calcium reactor and water changes. Set it and forget it IMHO... __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

11/20/2017, 08:13 PM	#2476
KJoFan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 236	Or, for that matter, I could also go with a 100g that's 60x21x21, but would I regret less depth, even if only 3" less?

11/22/2017, 09:05 AM	#2480
KJoFan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 236	The Reefbrite fixture with the led strips is listed as 14.75” wide so would not fit according to your dimensions. Hmm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

11/24/2017, 10:37 PM	#2483
michael.lemke Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: greeley co Posts: 395	Just received my custom 190ish and the build quality is fantastic on the tank! The stand is just ok. Overall very happy!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

11/26/2017, 11:12 AM	#2489
KJoFan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 236	For my current 66g was plumbed as a herbie with a cepex ball valve on the main drain and one on the return. Even though they are the highest quality ball valves I found it difficult to fine tune the plumbing. So, for the 150g I'm going to switch to the spears gate valve. Do I need one on the return AND one on the main drain?

12/11/2017, 04:54 PM	#2492
KJoFan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 236	Got my 150 in the house today with some help from some co-workers. I had the foam pad on the stand but as the tank was being slid on it just pushed it off. So, it's on the stand without any pad under it. Am I doomed or just carry on? I don't know how two of us would ever lift it again to get something under it.

12/11/2017, 06:33 PM	#2493
KJoFan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 236	Next question...I purchased an RO Varios 6 for my return pump but have the opportunity to purchase a used Waveline DC10000 Gen 2...would this be a better option? I did purchase the Triton sump though am not necessarily sold on going Triton just yet, I just wanted a big refugium area. I've read of some issues and significant head loss with the Varios pumps and might be nice to try to get the required 10x turnover Triton wants. Thoughts and opinions?

12/11/2017, 07:04 PM	#2496
jar41 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Chicago Posts: 140	Can you guys compare them to Red Sea or Waterbox? I am going to buy a new tank really soon!

12/15/2017, 10:56 AM	#2500
ggdowski Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Brighton/Pittsford, NY Posts: 494	I've been using the triton method for a few months. I was warned about chasing parameters. A few things... 1. If you are already dosing 2part -- you probably should be doing as much chemical testing as you would be doing if you did the triton method. Many crashes are simply because you are driving the car blindfolded. In some ways, the triton method forces you to do what you probably should be doing anyway. 2. Many folks use a refugium without using a triton dosing scheme. Either you rely on a refugium --- or you are wasting your time creating one. 3. The triton method never said you can't do a water change. You certainly can and will at some point. I'm not convinced you have to do their water tests, to execute the methodology. 4. IMO -- the goal is to heavily reduce water changes. Most people believe that 20% water changes are sufficient. If you didn't like the flavor of coke and you took out 20% and replaced it with water -- it would still taste like coke. That is my problem with water changes. We rely on them --- only to find ourselves driving blindfolded believing we have corrected a problem that was only 20% resolved with a water change. When people ask for help here --- the first question is always what are your water parameters. In many cases, those parameters look normal. Perhaps we don't always measure what is needed -- that is where the triton and ATI chemical testing can help. I suspect some of the faithful 20% water changers out there -- at some point will consider running one of those tests.