Chinese LED Lights

[King Nine]

Originally Posted by ReeferSteve78

I have had my 32 inch photon for 4 months and I have to say it was the best purchase I have done considering I spent a lot more for halides fixtures. My corals are growing and doing great and my tank is half Lps and half sps and nothing had been bleached.. I don't go over 60% on the lights and I have them hanging 8inches above water..

What optics are you using? I have 90s on order for mine but someone mentioned that I should go with 120s.

[ivon1955]

I have a 72 Gal Bowfront and right now only have some softies and a small Zoa Frag. I want to be able to do SPS/LPS and Softies at a look of 12000k to 14000k. Will one D120 be enough if centered with no optics under a hood, hung about 6-8 inches off the water? I don't mind my edges being a litte softer lit, as it provides a little depth in my opinion, but if it will be wicked noticeable, then I would go with two. Thank for all the information.

[EZTimes]

Originally Posted by ivon1955

I have a 72 Gal Bowfront and right now only have some softies and a small Zoa Frag. I want to be able to do SPS/LPS and Softies at a look of 12000k to 14000k. Will one D120 be enough if centered with no optics under a hood, hung about 6-8 inches off the water? I don't mind my edges being a litte softer lit, as it provides a little depth in my opinion, but if it will be wicked noticeable, then I would go with two. Thank for all the information.

With one unit it will be a lot softer on the edges, but you could try it and just get a second one later. I think eventually that you will need at least 100LEDs and maybe more so two 16"' or one 32" fixture to cover a 48 x 18 x 22 SPS/LPS/clam tank properly. You could play with the optics a little so the front middle of the tank has 120* optics and the rest 90* optics. Probably the RB 4' optics layout with the back rows all 90*'s would work nicely.

[Zedar]

I was in my local fish store yesterday and spotted the Maxspect Razor R420R M16000.

Its suppose to approximate a 16000K color temperature. The color was perfect IMHO. I have the D120 and the razor looks better IMHO.
So im shooting for the look that the razor achieves.

They're using equal amounts 8000k and 3000k white in a ratio of 2:1 with blues. These are cree LEDS

So I have a few questions.

1. Do cree LEDs look better then bridgelux? I know the Cree has a high CRI. What is the CRI of the bridgelux. does high CRI translate into real world performance?
2. Would using 6500k neutral whites give the same visual as the 8000k mixed with 3000k?

I hope someone with hands on experience can chime in.

Thanks

[loqix]

Originally Posted by kpk

Is there a perfect distance these should be mounted from the tank? I'm working on a light rack and just wondering how tall to make it. Thanks!

I believe this has to do with the degree and optics. I.e: 120, 90 or 60. Also depending on the depth of your tank.... so you don't get shading on the sides.

Can someone help with this question?

[ReeferSteve78]

My lights have 90 degree optic lens on them with a 3:2 ratio and have had great results in my corals..

[kpk]

Originally Posted by loqix

I believe this has to do with the degree and optics. I.e: 120, 90 or 60. Also depending on the depth of your tank.... so you don't get shading on the sides.

Can someone help with this question?

My tank is 48x24x18. I have no idea what optics......

Really just needing a general idea. I'm working on a light rack and wondering how high it should be..

[loqix]

Originally Posted by kpk

My tank is 48x24x18. I have no idea what optics......

Really just needing a general idea. I'm working on a light rack and wondering how high it should be..

If u look a few posts before, you'll see my standard 55g. They are about 6" from the water surface. I think mine are 60 degree. I get some shading if I drop them too low so I have them raised about 8."

I think I needed 90 degree

[goldfin]

Thought I'd share a couple of pics. I'm very pleased with the color. This tank has a large corner overflow, so I centered the 2080 over the back row of rock. I started the tank with a couple of TMC Aquabeam 600 marine blues (12 watt crees on each) and moved those to the front of the tank for the lower light corals on the bottom. I was a little concerned that the front of the tank might look bluer than the back, but the lights all blend nicely -- no discernible color transition. The 2080 is presently set very low (12% blue and 8% white/color) as I'm acclimating the new frags. I did notice some additional color brought out by the broader spectrum on the 2080. Not much of a photographer -- just taken with my phone.

[King Nine]

I'm double posting this from the reefbreeder thread. Just want opinions :-) :

Ok here is my maxspect rail system. I was planning on using the slide on rail brackets, screwing them to the new photons, and then using the short side of the elbow joints instead of the high side of them.(if you don't know much about maxspect rails the elbows are designed to be used either direction) If I do that I would have to hacksaw a little over an inch off one of the pipes and I don't want to do that. So I came up with this idea. I'm just looping the hanging kit over the rail and not using the long hanging wire. This will put the lights almost exactly 5" above the water. Is 5" a good hiegth with my 90 optics?

[Ron Reefman]

Assuming your tank is 6' long and you are getting IT2040's (Photon16's), right?

You are getting 3 of them, right? And the tank is 21" deep, so you should be good with 90 degree lenses... I think. I might have opted for an IT2060 (Photon24) for the middle fixture. But that's being overly cautious.

I'd still consider getting 120 degree lenses for all the non blue and white leds (including UV, violet, red & green) as well as all the moonlights. That would give you much better color spread from those few colors and more even moonlights which are a bit like spotlights.

[King Nine]

Originally Posted by Ron Reefman

Assuming your tank is 6' long and you are getting IT2040's (Photon16's), right?

You are getting 3 of them, right? And the tank is 21" deep, so you should be good with 90 degree lenses... I think. I might have opted for an IT2060 (Photon24) for the middle fixture. But that's being overly cautious.

I'd still consider getting 120 degree lenses for all the non blue and white leds (including UV, violet, red & green) as well as all the moonlights. That would give you much better color spread from those few colors and more even moonlights which are a bit like spotlights.

Ron you are right on all the above. When I spoke with Logan at Reefbreeders I expressed concern with the optics on the red LEDs. He told me that the red and moonlights all come with 120s on them which made me happy. So you think a 5" gap should be good?

I'm planning on putting them up today if I can figure out how to program them. I'm also waiting to get a PAR meter from a friend so I can check out what I have now with the T5s before puttting these guys on. Seeing as I've never checked the PAR before what numbers should I be looking to achieve?

[Ron Reefman]

The 5" gap should be fine.

Cool that RB has switched to using the 120 degree lenses on the moonlights and red leds. I'd want them on any leds other than blue or white. So UV and violet, unless you have a lot of violet leds (I've seen some ordered with a lot of them).

Whatever PAR you find from your t5's, set the leds about 10-20% lower for starters. The lenses make these lights burn/bleach corals easier than t5's or MH's. Then start ramping them up about 5%-10% every week or 2. Faster at first and slower later on.

There is no fixed target as it depends on so many factors. On my 55g with 2 D120's I get 200 at 21" (the bottom) and 1000 just barely under the water surface. That's at 100% blue and 65% white. I don't remember my PAR values on my IT2080's on the 180g DT but I run 90% blue and 40% white for 5 hours at mid day. I do a long slightly blue tinted sunrise for 4 hours and an even bluer 5 hour sunset. I've been running that power setting for 2 months and I'll probably bump it up a bit after I swap out some white leds for blues and violets and swap lenses from 90's to 120's on all but the blue and white leds.

[Lpoole]

Anyone use the 120w led dimmable on ebay? Let me know what you think of them.

[monkiboy]

Originally Posted by Lpoole

Anyone use the 120w led dimmable on ebay? Let me know what you think of them.

they are the same evergrow or greensun fixtures just more expensive. there are more and more resellers every week.

[palawan]

reefbreeders is another one.

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by ivon1955

I have a 72 Gal Bowfront and right now only have some softies and a small Zoa Frag. I want to be able to do SPS/LPS and Softies at a look of 12000k to 14000k. Will one D120 be enough if centered with no optics under a hood, hung about 6-8 inches off the water? I don't mind my edges being a litte softer lit, as it provides a little depth in my opinion, but if it will be wicked noticeable, then I would go with two. Thank for all the information.

I have a 4 ft long 60 gallon. 2 are needed. One will light 24 inches well at 4 inches off the water and 30 or so at 8 inches.

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by Chicago

Channel 1：35K-10pcs, 65K-12pcs, 10K-12pcs, 450-6pcs, 460-4pcs, 520-2pcs, 630-1pcs, 660-1 .
Channel 2：450-22pcs, 440-12pcs, 460-10pcs, 400-2pcs, 420-2pcs.
Channel 3: 450nm-3

anyone get this layout yet.. looking for feed back.. thinking im about to place order

I would add in 480nm, 500nm, 590nm, and more 420, 630, and 660.
This will make it more full spectrum and mimic the sun better.

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by DavidinGA

QUESTION

I just got my two reefbreeder photon32's hung and turned on for the first time tonight. Everything looks good except when I power them off I see the blue little light stays lit on the touch screen and I hear a higher pitch whistle sound that is coming from inside both units... Is this normal?

I unplugged the two units for now since it doesn't seem like they should be making this noise when they are turned off.

Oh, and it is definitely not the fans running that I hear as I checked that. It is coming from inside the units and the noise stops when I unplug them (obviously but just to clarify it is the lights making the noise). The sound is coming from the far left side of the unit (does it on both units).

Oh, and when the lights are ON the sounds goes away....




Anyone hear these sounds? Solution? Is it broken? Is it normal?


?????

Sounds like the power supplies.

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by Reefinginabox

I have two 2080 that I have had for about a month and I have had three LEDs stop working. Is there somewhere in the states I send them in for repair.

I have done a lot of Mods on my D120's. Your LED's probably died because they got too hot. I installed heatsinks into mine and it has lowered the tempature.
I'm not sure if the 2080's have them but the D120 Evergrow do not. How high did you have the 2080's cranked up?

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by jg93

Quick optics question on the D120 - going to hang one over a 60 gallon 24x24x24 cube - which optics should I choose?

Thanks!

60 degree optics are the way to go. More par to the bottom of the tank plus you don't need to use as much power which will lower the LED heat and increase their lifespan.

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by dixiedog

Where you can buy Evergrow fixtures direct from China?

I'd be more than willing to forgo Reefbreeders' US warranty, if there were a significant savings to be had.



(sorry if this has been asked, I admit I didn't read the whole thread!)

Aliexpress

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by dixiedog

Thanks for the info, Ron!

I was hoping for a different answer - not for the savings, really, but because I'm a little put off by the RB's lack of communication skills. When you contact a company with your finger on the 'buy' button and get no response, it makes you wonder how quickly they respond to warranty issues!

I bought some LED's from RF (Logan). My order was missing some LED's. Logan shipped the missing ones out to me and sent 6 extra LED's besides the ones that were missing. Top Notch. I will order from him in the future!

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by Chicago

what do you think about this layout

90 degree optics and 120.. 120 are the dotted red lines.

I would add another 630, 660, and get 2 590's off of ebay and install them. Also add a lot more 420's. If you look at the suns output at 1 meter and 10 meters UV 390 - 430 is about 1/2 the strength of the blues. Do coral need that? Thats the question. But I think full spectrum is the key without major dips. You may want to also install some 405nm and 500nm in there too.

[unitedbga]

Originally Posted by loqix

I saw this ratio posted in one of the 105 pages a few weeks ago, (lol) but now I cant find it. Anyways, i'm interested in this ratio but, Ive read many different things on the different color whites. Cool Whites, Neutral whites and Warm Whites. Can you guys please help me decide what would be the best??

Also, channel-wise, should I get the Violets to turn on with the Royal Blues? or should I just have whites alone? and colors on a separate channels?

your advise would be highly appreciated.

Thanks guys!

3500 to 6500 kelvin will give you a full range and strong output. 3500 gives you more red and 6500 gives you more yellow. 10k and up has much less yellow and red but you pick up some more green and blue bandwidth. It is important to have a variety so you don't have dips.