JP's DIY LED Fixture

[TheFishMan65]

Kcress why not XT-Es?

Multi ups sound good for mixing, but I am not sure they help with wiring if you keep each color on its own driver. Also if one goes bad you have to replace the whole thing not just one star. Better/worse I think is going to me mostly personal choice.

[TropTrea]

Actualy some of the stars with multiple LED's does not sound bad to me when I start doing full tank LED lighting. The difference in pricing could save a lot of cash when your talking 30 or even 60 stars if you can reduce them and still have space. to spare.

[Dirrk]

Originally Posted by TheFishMan65

Kcress why not XT-Es?

Multi ups sound good for mixing, but I am not sure they help with wiring if you keep each color on its own driver. Also if one goes bad you have to replace the whole thing not just one star. Better/worse I think is going to me mostly personal choice.

The XT was a typo ...my bad, all XPE and XGE Cree.

[Dirrk]

they also do reef mixes in 7-up. each LED IS addressable for flexible control options. Sure would be a lot less wire spaghetti. fear not....I'm not on commission....lol. just putting it out there.
I would not even consider LED lighting w/o the help available here. Retail fixtures are too $$$$ and DIY intimidating, even for me as a construction electrician. Solid state electronic fabrication is (was) a little outside my comfort zone. the help available here gives one the confidence to proceed. that's true for aquarium keeping overall.

[TheFishMan65]

all XPE and XGE Cr

You mean XP-G?

A 7 up might look nicer since it would probably have multiple of blue or white. But probably the same number of solder contacts - just some don't leace the start.

[Dirrk]

I must have had a mini stroke.........Yes 3 XP-E Rb +4 XP-G Cw ($43.53)........ or 4 Rb + 3 blue ( all XP-E)$40.52. Mounted on 40 mm disc. Some Optics are available.

It's only three letters..... I don't type much....................same number of contacts...just nice short jumpers for most. Probably needs one of the fancy heat sinks that many folks are wasting ( too harsh?) on spread configurations.

[kcress]

Originally Posted by TheFishMan65

Kcress why not XT-Es?

Hey Fish. I was thinking XR. XTs are new. Thanks for catching that.

[TheFishMan65]

Dirk,

Just a thought, when the LEDs are on they will be to bright to see the wires.

kcress,
No problem just wondering if I missed something. I make mistakes too and everyone once in a while one won't get caught and false info spreads.

[Pierre3512]

Just wanted to thank you kcress, Fishman and all the others, without you I would not have attempted this build,

My fixture is composed or 9 Cree XP-G CW, 9 NW and 36RB mounted on 3 U cnannels of 1.5 in.

Here are a few pics:

DSCN0335.JPG

DSCN0337.JPG

DSCN0352.JPG

DSCN0359.JPG

DSCN0394.JPG


Now the next question is what do you suggest as the best DIY controller.

Again thank you for all the help found on this site and others

[kcress]

You're welcome from all of us!

You've got an exceptionally clean looking build there. Very nicely executed. Kudos.

[badstraw]

I have a few questions..

Im planning to build my fixture using 58 bridgelux leds (29 per module, 28 whites, 24 blues, 6 pinks) and 3 meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers.

Can I wire two strings of 12 LEDs in paralell (24) and 17 in series to each driver?

What could be the best way to conect them, I only have 3 drivers..

Any help would be really appreciated, I wouldn't like to interfere in this awesome thread..

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2110208

thanks ..

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by badstraw

I have a few questions..

Im planning to build my fixture using 58 bridgelux leds (29 per module, 28 whites, 24 blues, 6 pinks) and 3 meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers.

Can I wire two strings of 12 LEDs in paralell (24) and 17 in series to each driver?

What could be the best way to conect them, I only have 3 drivers..

Any help would be really appreciated, I wouldn't like to interfere in this awesome thread..

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2110208

thanks ..

Your driver is rated at 1300 ma between 24 and 48 volts. So you could run two strings of 12 LED's each string drawing 650 ma. With three of these drivers you could actual run 72 LED's total. The important thing is to run the same number of LED on each string no fewer than 8 LEDs per string or more than 12 leads so you know the actual voltage will remain in the 24 to 48 volt range.

[badstraw]

Ohh I see..Thanks for your response I really appreciate your help.. So its ok to connect 2strings of 12 LEDs in parallel for a total of 24 LEDs using a fuse and a resistor to prevent possible damages.

Like you told me the meanwell works in the 24 to 48 volt range, but I've read that you could force it to 52.8 V, but if the LEDs light up at 3.2 v (3.2 x 17= 54.4) how come its possible to connect 17-18 LEDs in series to one driver? It doesn't make any sense

(Ray from aquastyleonline told me that you could connect 18 LEDs in series to one driver)

Maybe Im not understanding ...

Is it better if I connect 24 LEDs in parallel to one driver, 24 LEDs in parallel to the second driver, and then the last 10 in series to the third driver?

Is that the best connection available that I can get with only 3 drivers and 58 LEDs?

[kcress]

18? Not likely.
Forcing? Are you going for the shortest lifetime of a driver award?

Do you want your leds to only dim a few percent before going out?


When you mix the parallel strings you need to keep the same count of each type in two parallel strings.

Keeping this in mind uniformly distribute the counts over your three drivers.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by badstraw

Ohh I see..Thanks for your response I really appreciate your help.. So its ok to connect 2strings of 12 LEDs in parallel for a total of 24 LEDs using a fuse and a resistor to prevent possible damages.

Like you told me the meanwell works in the 24 to 48 volt range, but I've read that you could force it to 52.8 V, but if the LEDs light up at 3.2 v (3.2 x 17= 54.4) how come its possible to connect 17-18 LEDs in series to one driver? It doesn't make any sense

(Ray from aquastyleonline told me that you could connect 18 LEDs in series to one driver)

Maybe Im not understanding ...

Is it better if I connect 24 LEDs in parallel to one driver, 24 LEDs in parallel to the second driver, and then the last 10 in series to the third driver?

Is that the best connection available that I can get with only 3 drivers and 58 LEDs?

First off your driver is 1,300 ma so unless your using 5 watt LED's you do not want to run them that hot. running two strings in parrellel to each other would divide that load to 650 ma per string. If that calls for 3.2 Volts per LED then with 12 LED's you would be running at a hair over 38 volts. If you ran two strings of 18 LEDS then you would be running about 57.6 Volts. Since the driver is rated at a max of 48 volts chances are it might not be able to deliver 57.6 volts or even if it delivered 52.8 volts its life span would be considerably shortened.

Now running 24 LED's in parallel with the 1,300 ma driver would mean that your running 54 ma on each LED at well under 3 volts and with the driver adjusted to run between 24 and 48 volts there is no telling how it would handle this. My suspicion is it would be very unstable try to pump out more voltage and probably fry the whole works.

With the last 10 in series on the third drive this should work if you have LED's that can run at 1,300 ma. The power supply will probably be running at a little over 3.4 volts per LED for a total of 4.4 watts per LED. If these are three Watt LEDs chances are they will have very short life expectancy measurable in minutes if not seconds.

You have 58 LED's total with them all running the similar power ranges. You have 3 drivers so you can split them up 20 on the first driver, 20 on the second driver, and 18 on your third driver.

Drivers 1 and 2 get two separate string of 10 LEDs in series to each other with a 1 ohm resistor and 1 amp fast blow fuse. These two strings are then connected in parallel to each other. The actual driver then produces 1,300 ma to each but each string receives 650 ma. Each LED will use 3.2 Volts and the driver will be putting out roughly 32 Volts. Each LED will be running 650ma at 3.2 Volts so they will running at roughly 2.08 Watts.

With the third driver you do everything exactly l;ike you did for the prior two only you have 9 LED's per string. The difference will be automatically compensated by the driver which will put out roughly 29 Volts rather than the 32 it did on the other strings. Again your LEDs will be running at 2.08 Watts each.

Your total wattage will be around 120 Watts for this fixture. It should be able to handle a 60 gallon tank very easily with the highest light demanding corals you can find.

[badstraw]

Wooow sounds great!! Thank you for your kind explanation... So drivers 1 and 2 get two separate strings of 10 LEDs in series connected in parallel at the end (20 LEDs each driver) , then the third driver would run two strings of 9 LEDs in series connected in parallel at the end (18 LEDs in total).

Should I adjust the sv1 knob for the voltage? or the driver adjusts the voltage automatically...
And... what about the current, Should I put a multimeter and adjust it to 1300 mA?

I'll post pictures once my kit arrives home...

[badstraw]

I received my order today, I got 3 Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers, 58 bridgelux leds (28 whites, 24 blues, 6 pinks) 58 (60degree) lenses, powercords, wires, connectors, a 10 DC adapter, 3 potentiometers, and heatsink plasters.









I think I have a new set up, What do you think guys?

• 1st Module:

Driver 1: 10 Whites (PARALLEL)
Driver 2: 10 Blues (PARALLEL)
Driver 3: 4 Whites 2 blues 3 pinks (PARALLEL)

• 2nd Module:

Driver 1: 10 Whites (PARALLEL)
Driver 2: 10 Blues (PARALLEL)
Driver 3: 4 Whites 2 blues 3 pinks (PARALLEL)

Now I have a few questions..

Should I adjust the sv1 pot to change the voltage to 32 volts to connect 20 LEDs in parallel ? or the driver adjusts the voltage automatically...

And... what about the current, Should I measure the current with a multimeter and adjust it to 1300 mA? (to get 650mA each string)

Is it possible to dim the LEDs using 3 drivers, 3 potentiometers and only one 10 DC Adapter?

I would really appreciate any help..

[Dirrk]

Originally Posted by badstraw

Now I have a few questions..

Should I adjust the sv1 pot to change the voltage to 32 volts to connect 20 LEDs in parallel ? or the driver adjusts the voltage automatically...

And... what about the current, Should I measure the current with a multimeter and adjust it to 1300 mA? (to get 650mA each string)

Is it possible to dim the LEDs using 3 drivers, 3 potentiometers and only one 10 DC Adapter?

I would really appreciate any help..

I don't see any resistors to allow you to check current easily....nor do I see fuses, both a MUST have for parallel builds, IMHO.
current will split,but the strings need to be balanced. kcress and others have shown this several times.....Be sure to gently turn svr 2 all the way down (as rec. by MW) before powering up.

I'm pretty sure one 10v wallwart will power the dimming of all 3.
Looks like you are ready to rock.

[badstraw]

great! I thought it wasn't possible to power 3 potentiometers with a single adapter.
And it seems that I have to adjust only the current..

here are my wiring diagrams.. take a look:







Are they ok?

[kcress]

Yeah! Nice graphic!

[Dirrk]

I don't see why you are not using at least 12 LEDs per string, on the whites and the blues- you have them, right. I don't have the specs on the Bridgelux, but I think 12 would still have you well below 48v. you haven't mounted them yet, right?
The 10v wart just supplies a small signal voltage to the Meanwell, so I'm thinking you can power all three. right Kcress?

be sure to check that the total Fv on each string. they must be very close. Don't just use the data sheet numbers. Thefishman detailed this I think. Balance is critical to the success of any series-parallel setup.

[Chalu]

Originally Posted by kcress

Those meter pics are good. Thanks.

Set your meter to diode test. That's the funny symbol on "2K".

Then measure an unpowered LED with it. Stick it across the two LED soldered wires. Look at the LED as you do this. Try it reversed too.

One way should light the LED dimly. Note the polarity that works. Try it and get back to us.

I got this meter from Radioshack... http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103176

using the diode test, the LED does not light up either way. the display shows .0F reading both ways. Also when doing the continuity test using the short option, it displays "open" both ways. btw the string is not hooked up to a driver... what should I be doing?

When testing Using two AA batteries, both the tests are a pass... however does not give me the confidence to power the string on

[kcress]

Some cheap meter diode tests are too anemic to light our LEDs. Yours probably fits that category. The two battery test is just fine! DO all the same tests - just use the batteries instead.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by kcress

Some cheap meter diode tests are too anemic to light our LEDs. Yours probably fits that category. The two battery test is just fine! DO all the same tests - just use the batteries instead.

This does not necessarily mean it is a cheap meter. When the meter tests ohm's or diodes it puts a minimal amount of voltage between the leads. High quality meters like my fluk are not pushing enough voltage to give resistance reading on many LEDs. When I do the diode test in a dark room I barely see the light from the LED but in a lite room it is hard to detect. Yet when I set 50ma LED's that are designed to run on 1 or 2 volts I get good resistance reading actually in both directions.

Until the hit there trigger voltage most Diodes and LED's will register as open in each direction. Different diodes and LEDs have different trigger voltages some may be in the mili volts other may be considerably higher.

[S2minute]

Yes , i had bought the SAME meter. It diden't work for LEDS. I had to go back and buy the 42 function one that SAID for LEDS lol