DIY Tank (Dialup beware), Step by Step - Page 11

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 12:51 AM

I just went back to look at Chris's blue box (that didn't sound right did it?) What are the dimentions on that?

dattack · 02/28/2005, 12:55 AM

Hey Adrinal,
What are you using as an edge guide for larger pieces?

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 01:02 AM

I have one of those 4 foot steel rulers I have been testing with. I have only practiced on scrap so far. I imagin I will be looking for an 8' fence now though so I can just crank it down on either end of my NEW FANCY TABLE (I am holding back my excitement as you can see).
I was just planning to look for something like Chris has. Pretty much a ruler or level or something from the HD or Sears or Menards.

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 01:18 AM

Would this work for a top on a center over flow tank?

AJP · 02/28/2005, 10:06 AM

Hey I am sure this has been asked, but what would be some tanks I could make out of 48"x48"x1/2" I want to only use this and not buy any extra. Is this possible?

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 10:20 AM

one sheet?

4'x1'x8' for a prop tank.
See the begining of this thread for a regular tank.

What you can do is use Excel. Click on the upper right corner and then right click on the top and set width to 1.
Right click on the left side and set hight to 8.
Then select 1-a to p-32. Thats your sheet.
Fill it with a color, any color. Then you can cut and paste pieces away. (this is representing increments of 3"). It works for most rectangular pieces.

AJP · 02/28/2005, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by adrinal
one sheet?

4'x1'x8' for a prop tank.
See the begining of this thread for a regular tank.

What you can do is use Excel. Click on the upper right corner and then right click on the top and set width to 1.
Right click on the left side and set hight to 8.
Then select 1-a to p-32. Thats your sheet.
Fill it with a color, any color. Then you can cut and paste pieces away. (this is representing increments of 3"). It works for most rectangular pieces.

Ok that excel stuff just confused me. I don't think I can get a 4'x1'x8' out of a sheet of 48"x48" I am looking to make a simple cube style tank, not to deep. Wanting to do it with just one piece if possible.

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 10:31 AM

oops 48 by 48

Chatouille · 02/28/2005, 10:32 AM

Quote:

I just went back to look at Chris's blue box (that didn't sound right did it?) What are the dimentions on that?

I went 10-1/2"L x 6-1/2"w x 9" tall for my box, with 1" long x 3/8" teeth. (Those dimensions are outside measurements, material used was 1/2" thick.) I Have enough room to put my hands in, even with my wide top edge.

Quote:

I imagin I will be looking for an 8' fence now though so I can just crank it down on either end of my NEW FANCY TABLE (I am holding back my excitement as you can see).

Are you sure you don't want to go with a 4' fence, and feed your material from side to side, instead of down the 8' length? Just make sure that whatever way you decide to go... the fence is high enough that your piece doesn't slip up and over it, and that it is wide enough/rigid enough that it doesn't flex when your piece is fed through.

You should be excited, it's a great lookin table. You've got plenty of work area now, and that just makes things all the easier. You do realize that after you let ppl know in your reef club about the table, you *will* be puttin some hours on it.

(I see lot's of frags commin your way

)

When I did my table... I had thought about something simillar that I could just drop in either a small router table, or small table top saw into, depending on what I needed. Kinda serve a dual purpose. BUT unfortunately, time, space, and $$$ didn't allow for it.

looks GOOD!

Chris

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 10:36 AM

I got 2'x2'x1 on Excel...

AJP · 02/28/2005, 10:38 AM

is that 1 foot or 1 inch?

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Chatouille
[B]

Are you sure you don't want to go with a 4' fence, and feed your material from side to side, instead of down the 8' length? Just make sure that whatever way you decide to go... the fence is high enough that your piece doesn't slip up and over it, and that it is wide enough/rigid enough that it doesn't flex when your piece is fed through.

Oh Now I see, thats what he was getting at. Right! Well, I see no reason I can't be set up to do both

Quote:

Originally posted by Chatouille

You should be excited, it's a great lookin table. You've got plenty of work area now, and that just makes things all the easier. You do realize that after you let ppl know in your reef club about the table, you *will* be puttin some hours on it. (I see lot's of frags commin your way )

Hmm, I had not thought of that extra bonus

Quote:

When I did my table... I had thought about something simillar that I could just drop in either a small router table, or small table top saw into, depending on what I needed. Kinda serve a dual purpose. BUT unfortunately, time, space, and $$$ didn't allow for it.

When I went looking for the house the first thing I would do is hit the basement. Check if the "family room" would house a pool table, then see if the garage would work for me.
That landed me a rambler with a 2 deep 2 wide garage and a nice large basement. I left many a home after just looking at the basement. The realters were like... don't you want to see the kitchen or bedrooms or something???
I am not too handy with the tools yet and have a huge mess out there getting the tank building set up. The wife can't figure why I have to let her car get snowed on in the parking lot with it being so big

Chris [/QUOTE]

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 10:53 AM

AJP, This is what I came up with for the 48"x48" piece.

24"x24" Top/ Bottom

24"x12" sides

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Chatouille
I went 10-1/2"L x 6-1/2"w x 9" tall for my box, with 1" long x 3/8" teeth. (Those dimensions are outside measurements, material used was 1/2" thick.) I Have enough room to put my hands in, even with my wide top edge.

What was the lip on your tank, again? I guess your getting about a 3" hole for your hand. I hate to eat up so much realstate in a prop tank tank

I am already upset that the tanks will only be 24" wide. I would think 30" would maximise the use of lights, but 2 rows of 24" wide with a 4" space inbetween work... 2x30"+4" is just a tad too big

. I think I am going to just use a 4' strip of pvc pipe for the over flow. Its a bit ugly, but it eats up virtually no grow space!

AJP · 02/28/2005, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by adrinal

AJP, This is what I came up with for the 48"x48" piece.

24"x24" Top/ Bottom

24"x12" sides

Ok looks good, I think I may just give this a try.

lingwendil · 02/28/2005, 11:58 AM

I plan on making a tank for my senior project in high school by june, I plan on a 24" cube. Would 1/2" thick work? For another project I want to build a 8.5" tall, 12" wide, By 9" deep, would 1/8" thick work?

SUMMERS · 02/28/2005, 12:07 PM

The half inch would be good for the 24" cube. You could get away with a small flange on the top (eurobrace style) of probably 3".

I would recommend 1/4" on the other tank. 1/8" would work with a good flange on top but 1/4" is not much more and would be more resistant to bowing.

Chatouille · 02/28/2005, 12:24 PM

AJP,

You could also make a 24"x 16"x 16" tank if 12" isn't tall enough for you. (little scrap leftover)

Quote:

What was the lip on your tank, again?

I have a 3-3/4" perimeter brace.

I remember something from one of the Stockman threads. Instead of an overflow box, Ken drilled the bottom of his tank and ran PVC pipe up... at the top, he used something like a 4" x 1" reducer bushing so that it formed like a cup with a pipe comming in from the bottom. I don't remember if he use teeth around the edge of the "cup" or not to keep junk out. Inside, he naturally used a "Stockman" stand pipe. If you go this route... you can tweak the cup height for your water lvl to desired height. Just make sure you glue it afterwards so that it's sealed incase of power failure. (so it can only drain what's in the cup.)

Just an idea anyways....

Chris

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 12:39 PM

Ya, thats a good Idea as well, I was thinking of something like that. I could even brace part of it to the top with a number of methods. I am still thinking the long pipe will give me the greatest surface area, with least coral space stolen. If I can make it perfect (easer said than done, I know) water would be entering from both sides of the pipe. Theoretically, that would make my overflow gate 96" long!

Chatouille · 02/28/2005, 01:50 PM

The only concern that I would have going with your method is if the drain were to become clogged somehow. I would definately go with 2 seperate drain lines if you go that route. Each one capable of keeping up with your return pump incase one were to clog. Better safe than sorry.

Chris

adrinal · 02/28/2005, 02:17 PM

oh I will have Two 1-1/2" bulkheads for the drain no mater what I do.

lingwendil · 02/28/2005, 04:45 PM

For my smaller design I plan on using cast 1/8" with a brace, my LPS (local plastic shop, Tap) said that 1/8" would be fine.

adrinal · 03/07/2005, 04:01 PM

Quick update, I still havent been able to make a cut. I think the stuff I am practicing on is 1/4" extruded... not positive though. I can get small pieces through, NP. But anything over a foot ends up getting sucked into the bit a tad. I am going to review the threads and see if I can make a go of it later this evening.

adrinal · 03/07/2005, 04:15 PM

There are only 3 things I can find different than this:

1) I am standing 90 degrees different. So, he is pushing to the side and forward. I am pulling and moving it through to the side.

2) His acrylic is coated with paper (so is my cast, I just haven't touched that yet

3) His arms are slightly more hairy.

Chatouille · 03/07/2005, 05:52 PM

hmmmm...

A featherboad would help keep your piece against the fence.

Could clamp a fence/guide across the width of the table instead of the length, and give that a shot. I'm trying to picture the way you are doing it, and it seems like it would be more difficult.

You could always shave your arms a few times... that could help with the hair thing

Chris

02/28/2005, 11:58 AM	#266
lingwendil Man who sold the world Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Oakley, behind enemy lines in communist occupied California. Posts: 254	I plan on making a tank for my senior project in high school by june, I plan on a 24" cube. Would 1/2" thick work? For another project I want to build a 8.5" tall, 12" wide, By 9" deep, would 1/8" thick work? __________________ LED snob. Unapologetic Luxeon Rebel and Bridgelux Vero fanboy. Every time a fluorescent or halide fixture is scrapped, an angel gets its wings.

02/28/2005, 12:07 PM	#267
SUMMERS Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 857	The half inch would be good for the 24" cube. You could get away with a small flange on the top (eurobrace style) of probably 3". I would recommend 1/4" on the other tank. 1/8" would work with a good flange on top but 1/4" is not much more and would be more resistant to bowing. __________________ With a Router and a Table saw you can make anything for your tank.

02/28/2005, 04:45 PM	#272
lingwendil Man who sold the world Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Oakley, behind enemy lines in communist occupied California. Posts: 254	For my smaller design I plan on using cast 1/8" with a brace, my LPS (local plastic shop, Tap) said that 1/8" would be fine. __________________ LED snob. Unapologetic Luxeon Rebel and Bridgelux Vero fanboy. Every time a fluorescent or halide fixture is scrapped, an angel gets its wings.

02/28/2005, 12:51 AM	#251
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	I just went back to look at Chris's blue box (that didn't sound right did it?) What are the dimentions on that?

02/28/2005, 12:55 AM	#252
dattack Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 4,992	Hey Adrinal, What are you using as an edge guide for larger pieces?

02/28/2005, 01:02 AM	#253
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	I have one of those 4 foot steel rulers I have been testing with. I have only practiced on scrap so far. I imagin I will be looking for an 8' fence now though so I can just crank it down on either end of my NEW FANCY TABLE (I am holding back my excitement as you can see). I was just planning to look for something like Chris has. Pretty much a ruler or level or something from the HD or Sears or Menards.

02/28/2005, 01:18 AM	#254
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	Would this work for a top on a center over flow tank?

02/28/2005, 10:06 AM	#255
AJP Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Kansas Posts: 2,652	Hey I am sure this has been asked, but what would be some tanks I could make out of 48"x48"x1/2" I want to only use this and not buy any extra. Is this possible?

02/28/2005, 10:20 AM	#256
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	one sheet? 4'x1'x8' for a prop tank. See the begining of this thread for a regular tank. What you can do is use Excel. Click on the upper right corner and then right click on the top and set width to 1. Right click on the left side and set hight to 8. Then select 1-a to p-32. Thats your sheet. Fill it with a color, any color. Then you can cut and paste pieces away. (this is representing increments of 3"). It works for most rectangular pieces.

02/28/2005, 10:31 AM	#258
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	oops 48 by 48

02/28/2005, 10:36 AM	#260
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	I got 2'x2'x1 on Excel...

02/28/2005, 10:38 AM	#261
AJP Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Kansas Posts: 2,652	is that 1 foot or 1 inch?

02/28/2005, 10:53 AM	#263
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	AJP, This is what I came up with for the 48"x48" piece. 24"x24" Top/ Bottom 24"x12" sides

02/28/2005, 12:39 PM	#269
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	Ya, thats a good Idea as well, I was thinking of something like that. I could even brace part of it to the top with a number of methods. I am still thinking the long pipe will give me the greatest surface area, with least coral space stolen. If I can make it perfect (easer said than done, I know) water would be entering from both sides of the pipe. Theoretically, that would make my overflow gate 96" long!

02/28/2005, 01:50 PM	#270
Chatouille Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: NB, Canada Posts: 215	The only concern that I would have going with your method is if the drain were to become clogged somehow. I would definately go with 2 seperate drain lines if you go that route. Each one capable of keeping up with your return pump incase one were to clog. Better safe than sorry. Chris

02/28/2005, 02:17 PM	#271
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	oh I will have Two 1-1/2" bulkheads for the drain no mater what I do.

03/07/2005, 04:01 PM	#273
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	Quick update, I still havent been able to make a cut. I think the stuff I am practicing on is 1/4" extruded... not positive though. I can get small pieces through, NP. But anything over a foot ends up getting sucked into the bit a tad. I am going to review the threads and see if I can make a go of it later this evening.

03/07/2005, 04:15 PM	#274
adrinal Moved On Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 764	There are only 3 things I can find different than this: 1) I am standing 90 degrees different. So, he is pushing to the side and forward. I am pulling and moving it through to the side. 2) His acrylic is coated with paper (so is my cast, I just haven't touched that yet 3) His arms are slightly more hairy.

03/07/2005, 05:52 PM	#275
Chatouille Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: NB, Canada Posts: 215	hmmmm... A featherboad would help keep your piece against the fence. Could clamp a fence/guide across the width of the table instead of the length, and give that a shot. I'm trying to picture the way you are doing it, and it seems like it would be more difficult. You could always shave your arms a few times... that could help with the hair thing Chris