Kessil Club

[madweazl]

Originally Posted by smatter

Every time I blow out my 360 dust gets on the inside of the splash lens. I just take it apart to do it now. It works much better that way anyway. Kessil gave me the go ahead and made a notation on my warranty so I could open it up.

I havent had this happen yet but I have wanted to take them apart to thoroughly clean the fan and heatsink; didn't you have a video or something showing how to disassemble them?

[Thor2j]

Originally Posted by reefinmike

I'm curious... does kessil have an unadvertised two year warranty? I've purchased 4 360we tuna blue lights recently under the impression that they have a two year warranty after reading this referenced a number of times in different threads. The warranty card provided states that it is a one year warranty. I bought them mainly because of all the great reviews. I've read a number of people have had them go out after 2-3 years of use. That did not scare me because even they have to be replaced every other year at $350 a pop, they are still cheaper than running metal halides.

Yes, talked to them many times about it. 2 year unadvertised warranty.

[smatter]

Originally Posted by madweazl

I havent had this happen yet but I have wanted to take them apart to thoroughly clean the fan and heatsink; didn't you have a video or something showing how to disassemble them?

The video wasn't me, but they're easy to get apart. The only requirement is a torx screwdriver. I used to work at The Marine Scene back in the Nineties by the way

[drtrash]

Not sure if this is the right posting but is there a kelvin conversion for kessil logic wheel?

[madweazl]

Originally Posted by smatter

The video wasn't me, but they're easy to get apart. The only requirement is a torx screwdriver. I used to work at The Marine Scene back in the Nineties by the way

Are the screws under the little rubber caps on the lens cover?

[LobsterOfJustice]

I know an exact answer depends on a huge number of factors but in general, what is a reasonable peak percentage for an A360 11” off the water for SPS?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[madweazl]

Originally Posted by LobsterOfJustice

I know an exact answer depends on a huge number of factors but in general, what is a reasonable peak percentage for an A360 11” off the water for SPS?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends on what you're trying to grow under it but at 11" off the water, you've reduced it's PAR potential by a huge margin. My A360s are 5" off the water and still cover a huge area (two provide overlapping coverage on a 48"x18" 75g tank). On an SPS dominant tank, I have intensity maxing out at 75% and that only produces 170 PAR eight inches below the surface, directly under the light. At 11 inches, you can expect that number to be cut in half. At 100% intensity and mounted 5" above the water, max PAR is 205. Again, double the distance from the tank and you're roughly cutting the max PAR in half.

Take advantage of the Kessil's far superior reflector and color blending and move it closer to the water surface.

[ComforablyNumb]

Originally Posted by madweazl

Are the screws under the little rubber caps on the lens cover?

Yes. Then you push in the two tiny tabs on the side of the lamp. It will then open up. Even tho the warranty period is 2 yrs for Canada and US, 1 yr elsewhere, they should last longer than 3 or 4 years.

Mine have been run 12 hrs a day for going on 3 yrs. I would be very disappointed if that is their life span as the LEDS themselves should be good for many many years. I blow mine out with compressed air a couple times year without taking off the cover. Taking it off before blowing it out would be more efficient at getting all the dust out of course.

My experience has been the lamp will shut itself down when over heated (there must be a thermostat inside that regulates that) so it is designed to shut down before any heat damage occurs to the lamp components.

I also run 2 360s on a 4' mixed, 5 inches above avg waterline.

[SonoranReefer]

Thought I'd chime in here as well. I have an AP700 over a 85g 48" tank. It has been doing great. I am disappointed though that it's not controllable through the APEX system, it's not a deal breaker but is disappointing as its Kessils most recent and powerful light! If I ever do upgrade to a big tank it will be hard to not at least consider dare I say it in this thread.. Radion's. But time will tell.

On a side note, is there any rumors of a new generation of Kessils coming out? I believe everything including the current AP700 is at least a few years old at this point. I know the whole if its not broke why fix it mentality but I am genuinely interested is all.

[SRAD750C]

Originally Posted by redlazer

I have a question I would like to have two Kessil A160 Tuna blues over my 4ft 90gl fowlr aquarium, but I wouldn’t like it if I could with a spectral controller set them for at night to work as moon lights? Also is there anyway to automate to after a certain time to dim down as moonlights?

They won't dim down far enough to serves as moonlights, according to Kessil rep.

[SRAD750C]

Originally Posted by mymini

Hi, I am looking for new lights where the display portion of my tank. I have an older acrylic tank with the sump in the back and therefore only giving the display portion of the measurements. The display tank is 48 L x 10 wide (front to back of display) x 12 h (water line to top of sand). Currently I have 2 black boxes. I mostly have mushrooms, zoas, duncans, candy cane etc. I currently have 2 black boxes on top - right above the water line. I like the shimmer of Kessil's. Given how shallow my tank is I am thinking A80's about 4" above the water line and near or at full intensity. I believe I would need 2 or maybe 3 if I get too much shadows. Or, will there be light shining outside of the tank on the floor unless I hang much higher? Given the depth is why I am speaking of A80 and not 160's or so. But, I need advice.

Get A360WE, A80's won't provide enough light if you want to grow SPS.

[jtgrimes]

How is the growth on this? What is your schedule,
24/7 or opposite of DT? Mine comes in today!

Originally Posted by madweazl

Picked up a Kessil H80 for the refugium. The previous lights lit up the entire stand and algae really appreciated it; maintenance on the skimmer and carbon reactor were starting to become a pain so I wanted to find a solution to cut back on this. I relocated the carbon reactor from the back wall of the refugium chamber to the return chamber of the sump and was able to lower the new light far enough to eliminate light creep into the skimmer chamber and return chamber completely while illuminating the entire refugium area (if the mount would allow it, I could drop the light four more inches and still have adequate spread). Hopefully the growth remains the same (or better) with the Kessil.

[brad65ford]

Sorry for this question if it has been asked but I'm trying my 160 again on my system over different types of sps's getting 200-300 par, about 550 par at the water surface, prior I was running Oprhek's seeing similar par numbers. I've tried 20-40% color intensity though they seem to like 5% color and 50% intensity with other colors do not. Has anyone been successful with 0 or 5% color on Kessil growing sps's or do they need more white percentage of light?

[Left Coast DJ]

I really want to join this club. But my wallet is fighting me!

[madweazl]

Originally Posted by brad65ford

Sorry for this question if it has been asked but I'm trying my 160 again on my system over different types of sps's getting 200-300 par, about 550 par at the water surface, prior I was running Oprhek's seeing similar par numbers. I've tried 20-40% color intensity though they seem to like 5% color and 50% intensity with other colors do not. Has anyone been successful with 0 or 5% color on Kessil growing sps's or do they need more white percentage of light?

When you say "they seem to like 5%," who/what are you referring to? My tank is mostly acropora; I run the color at 65% (ramps from 0% to 65% for two hours at startup and shutdown) and intensity is at 85% (ramps from 0% to 85% over six hours and back down for 12 hour total photo-period).

[choss]

I love my Kessils but on my new build went best of all worlds to ensure proper SPS growth. I have a Giesemann Spectra (250 W Radium bulb, 4X24WT5) plus 2 Kessil A360WEs. The combo is stunning in person. Here is a short video - enjoy.

[Xandernfs]

Is there a thread where we can see others lighting schedules for the ap700?

[madweazl]

Originally Posted by Xandernfs

Is there a thread where we can see others lighting schedules for the ap700?

Dana Riddle did some testing and stated Setting 2 had the best PUR and PAR with the light mounted 9" above the surface.

[Seaweed Brain]

Hello all. I just recently set up a new light combo and I'm wondering if I'm overdoing it a bit. I have an older Kessil 150w tuna blue over a 20gallon mixed reef. I added a reefbrite to give extra blue, coverage, and to add more of a dawn/dusk feel to the tank. the reefbrites come on first and are on the longest, about 10 hours total, then the kessil comes on about an hour and a half after and is on for about 7hours total. Kessil goes off first, then reefbrites.. My corals are doing ok, but not spectacular and I've been wondering if its just a little too much. Any input will be helpful and appreciated, Thanks

[dtapke]

Feel free to get mad at me, but I just got a Kessil a160we tuna for my 24g nanocube and I'm wondering the age old "how bright" question. As well as the color setting.

I didn't buy the 100 controller to get better control of the light, but currently running it on a new tank, 4-5 shrooms and a kenya tree is all thats in there. Don't want to over light them, or under light them.

I played around with how high off the tank to suspend it and am currently about 3-4" distance from water to the light, and that seems to be the closest i can run it and get a good pattern across the whole tank.

Should i invest in the light controller? I've been running it blue for an hour at 30% brightness or so in the morning while i make coffee etc, then before i leave for work turn it to about 80-90% of the white end of the color spectrum and about 60-70% brightness. then an hour before lights off i turn it back full blue and dim (adjusting a bit at a time).

probably 12-13 hours of light time.

[dtapke]

hm can't edit posts, i should note the shrooms are at the bottom, and the kenya is halfway up

[slief]

Originally Posted by dtapke

Feel free to get mad at me, but I just got a Kessil a160we tuna for my 24g nanocube and I'm wondering the age old "how bright" question. As well as the color setting.

I didn't buy the 100 controller to get better control of the light, but currently running it on a new tank, 4-5 shrooms and a kenya tree is all thats in there. Don't want to over light them, or under light them.

I played around with how high off the tank to suspend it and am currently about 3-4" distance from water to the light, and that seems to be the closest i can run it and get a good pattern across the whole tank.

Should i invest in the light controller? I've been running it blue for an hour at 30% brightness or so in the morning while i make coffee etc, then before i leave for work turn it to about 80-90% of the white end of the color spectrum and about 60-70% brightness. then an hour before lights off i turn it back full blue and dim (adjusting a bit at a time).

probably 12-13 hours of light time.

You’d be doing yourself a huge service by spending some time reading this thread as you would get an actual perspective of what others are using and how far they have them from the water. That said, 3-4” from the water is RIDICULOUSLY close to the water IMO. You should never run any light that close to the water. At least not if you want them to last. I personally wouldn’t run them any closer than 8”.

That said, again, reading would help you out and would have given you a good idea of what others are running but I would start with about 60% color and about 50% power. Since you don’t have the controller which is certainly helpful, I would just use the dials and run it that way for about 8 hours a day. Watch your corals and see how they do.

[dtapke]

@slief, just reading back a few posts I find information stating that 5" is pretty good, and realistically stating that the close the lamp to the light, the more light can be provided to the tank. I see no benefit to keeping the light further from the water? It's far enough that no splashing will get to it which i would imagine being the main risk.

As far as reading the whole thread. this thing is like 3000 posts long, i went back a few pages and there was a bunch of folks just getting in ****ing matches with each other about stuff and very little actual discussion of ideal lighting conditions etc. It'd be nice if Kessil would provide some more info on their recommendations for things, but I understand lighting is a complex thing to work with.

Originally Posted by madweazl

Depends on what you're trying to grow under it but at 11" off the water, you've reduced it's PAR potential by a huge margin. My A360s are 5" off the water and still cover a huge area (two provide overlapping coverage on a 48"x18" 75g tank). On an SPS dominant tank, I have intensity maxing out at 75% and that only produces 170 PAR eight inches below the surface, directly under the light. At 11 inches, you can expect that number to be cut in half. At 100% intensity and mounted 5" above the water, max PAR is 205. Again, double the distance from the tank and you're roughly cutting the max PAR in half.

Take advantage of the Kessil's far superior reflector and color blending and move it closer to the water surface.

[slief]

Originally Posted by dtapke

@slief, just reading back a few posts I find information stating that 5" is pretty good, and realistically stating that the close the lamp to the light, the more light can be provided to the tank. I see no benefit to keeping the light further from the water? It's far enough that no splashing will get to it which i would imagine being the main risk.

As far as reading the whole thread. this thing is like 3000 posts long, i went back a few pages and there was a bunch of folks just getting in ****ing matches with each other about stuff and very little actual discussion of ideal lighting conditions etc. It'd be nice if Kessil would provide some more info on their recommendations for things, but I understand lighting is a complex thing to work with.

Kessil really can’t give that kind of advice. Every tank is different and what works in for tank won’t work for the next. in the next. For example, low nutrient tanks typically do better with less intensity. High nutrient tanks seem to do better with higher intensity. Clearer water tends to have an impact on PAR just as a sand bed vs bare bottom. Height above the tank, depth of tank, height of aquascape, surface agitation, types of coral, frags grown under LED vs wild colonies, vs frags grown under halide vs T5 etc. If you’re following what I am saying, there are a lot of unknowns with each tank and it’s a liability for a manufacturer to make suggestions like that because every tank is different. If you use their suggestions and kill your coral, who are you going to blame? These lights are MUCH more powerful than most new to them realize and recognizing corals response when you’ve gone too far or not far enough is critical.

Then there is the fact that everybody talks about PAR yet where corals get their needed photosynthetic radiation happens to be a spectrum that most par meters don’t read well and actually looks dim to the human eye. At the end of the day, it’s been my experience with these lights, that you are better off having them further from the water and gaining the additional spread and really has an insignificant impact on the corals due to any PAR losses from having them higher. The benefits outweigh the negatives by having the lights higher. The Kessils do just fine for growing corals and very few of us ever needed to exceed 75% intensity. As for color, they will grow coral under any range from 0-100. The whiter you go, the more algae you will grow. Yea it will look brighter but that’s not going to improve corals growth. Just algae growth.

[makers marc]

Originally Posted by slief

Kessil really can’t give that kind of advice. Every tank is different and what works in for tank won’t work for the next. in the next. For example, low nutrient tanks typically do better with less intensity. High nutrient tanks seem to do better with higher intensity. Clearer water tends to have an impact on PAR just as a sand bed vs bare bottom. Height above the tank, depth of tank, height of aquascape, surface agitation, types of coral, frags grown under LED vs wild colonies, vs frags grown under halide vs T5 etc. If you’re following what I am saying, there are a lot of unknowns with each tank and it’s a liability for a manufacturer to make suggestions like that because every tank is different. If you use their suggestions and kill your coral, who are you going to blame? These lights are MUCH more powerful than most new to them realize and recognizing corals response when you’ve gone too far or not far enough is critical.

Then there is the fact that everybody talks about PAR yet where corals get their needed photosynthetic radiation happens to be a spectrum that most par meters don’t read well and actually looks dim to the human eye. At the end of the day, it’s been my experience with these lights, that you are better off having them further from the water and gaining the additional spread and really has an insignificant impact on the corals due to any PAR losses from having them higher. The benefits outweigh the negatives by having the lights higher. The Kessils do just fine for growing corals and very few of us ever needed to exceed 75% intensity. As for color, they will grow coral under any range from 0-100. The whiter you go, the more algae you will grow. Yea it will look brighter but that’s not going to improve corals growth. Just algae growth.

Slief,

So ive had my 2 x Ap700 mounted 12 inches above the water line for 5 months on my 180g, which makes it a total of 22 inches from my highest placed acro frag. It maxes out at 80% for 3 hrs midday, total run time is 14 hrs daily.

I mounted it higher for more spread and less shading initially. Just read Dana Riddle's review on the unit https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2018/3/aafeature.

Using the sample par/pur map attached he provides, he mentions that only the areas with 100+ par/pur will be strong enough to grow sps corals. So that would be the blue, green, and purple areas.

Does his argument fall under the "par can't be truly measured for LEDs?" If so, is his argument valid?

Im trying again, to decide whether I lower my unit or not. Thanks.