AquaIllumination PAR Measurements

[ast]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

I can't speak for Darren, but his 300 is 30" deep. I think that would be a tall order for any 1w based fixture, especially without optics.

Yes, noted, but depends on placement. With a sand bed, he might be 24 to 26" deep and might not plan on much directly on the sand bed.

[ast]

Originally Posted by nivenethan

That exactly. At the time nobody really had a very good feeling how much LED power was needed to penetrate 30" of water and still grow SPS while getting a decent color balance......AND MOST OF ALL....

They are made in the US....better yet....Ames, IA; where I went to college.

AI modules are just quality...pick one up, hold them....they are solid, well built, and clean.

Noted, thanks. Are you keeping SPS at 30" deep though?

[luibove]

Originally Posted by rostato

Wow, I missed a lot over the weekend. I am anxiously awaiting my sol blue upgrade. I really hope I can get more pop out of my corals.

Hi Rostato, I'm planning the same configuration, my tank is 24x24x24 Cube, I read thru you post, Nice setup!, but I have a question, R u adding a second AI Sol to provide better coverage, or is it that 1 AI is insufficient for that type of tank?

[rostato]

It is sufficient for my tank. It would be difficult for your tank unless your aquascape, and corals were concentrated under the light. I get some shading, but this is due in large part to the placement of my overflow, and trhe large rim around the outside of my tank

[luibove]

Originally Posted by rostato

It is sufficient for my tank. It would be difficult for your tank unless your aquascape, and corals were concentrated under the light. I get some shading, but this is due in large part to the placement of my overflow, and trhe large rim around the outside of my tank

Thanx Bud! do you have the 40 deg optics on you current setup?

[ccLansman]

Thanks for the info CalmSeasQuest. When i first switched from a 250W MH over my 55gal to the led fixture I used my par meter to first get readings with the MH. I then tried to match those same par #'s with the LEDs... Suffice to say the coral were NOT happy. The output is definitely not the same. I ended up moving the fixture over a foot off the tank and dimming it down about 30%. I measured again and the par was around 200-250 with the MH about 3/4 down into the water. I have the leds at 100-150 @ 3/4 the way down now and the coral seem much happier. So i agree that there must be some amount of error with par meters and led. The thing i don't understand is the fact that the par meters are supposed to measure light from 400nm-700nm.. I guess with our LEDs being in the 420-440 range its close to the cutoff. How does Sanjay know there is an error %? If the only way of measuring the output is par meter and the par meter is off how was he able to verify his results?

[nivenethan]

Originally Posted by ast

Noted, thanks. Are you keeping SPS at 30" deep though?

[nivenethan]

Originally Posted by ast

Noted, thanks. Are you keeping SPS at 30" deep though?

1-2 inch sandbed. SPS vary from 6" below water to 26" below water. Yes.

[Dark_Reef]

Originally Posted by ccLansman

Thanks for the info CalmSeasQuest. When i first switched from a 250W MH over my 55gal to the led fixture I used my par meter to first get readings with the MH. I then tried to match those same par #'s with the LEDs... Suffice to say the coral were NOT happy. The output is definitely not the same. I ended up moving the fixture over a foot off the tank and dimming it down about 30%. I measured again and the par was around 200-250 with the MH about 3/4 down into the water. I have the leds at 100-150 @ 3/4 the way down now and the coral seem much happier. So i agree that there must be some amount of error with par meters and led. The thing i don't understand is the fact that the par meters are supposed to measure light from 400nm-700nm.. I guess with our LEDs being in the 420-440 range its close to the cutoff. How does Sanjay know there is an error %? If the only way of measuring the output is par meter and the par meter is off how was he able to verify his results?

At MACNA during one of his lectures he was mentioned that he has another meter that is not a par meter. I cannot remember exactly what it is but it is from the college that he works at and it very expensive. I know because I asked him after the lecture where I can get one. He did say they are no longer made.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by ccLansman

Thanks for the info CalmSeasQuest. When i first switched from a 250W MH over my 55gal to the led fixture I used my par meter to first get readings with the MH. I then tried to match those same par #'s with the LEDs... Suffice to say the coral were NOT happy. The output is definitely not the same. I ended up moving the fixture over a foot off the tank and dimming it down about 30%. I measured again and the par was around 200-250 with the MH about 3/4 down into the water. I have the leds at 100-150 @ 3/4 the way down now and the coral seem much happier. So i agree that there must be some amount of error with par meters and led. The thing i don't understand is the fact that the par meters are supposed to measure light from 400nm-700nm.. I guess with our LEDs being in the 420-440 range its close to the cutoff. How does Sanjay know there is an error %? If the only way of measuring the output is par meter and the par meter is off how was he able to verify his results?

Very interesting ccLansman - and supportive of what we've been discussing. Using your numbers, the PAR meter variance would be even higher than our 15%~25% estimates.

Regarding Sanjays comments about PAR meter variance - In our discussion at MACNA, I was pressing for a hard number. His of-the-cuff response was 15%. I don't think it was based on any formal testing. Sanjay mentioned having access to higher quality PAR testing equipment through the university - From this I inferred he had seen differences between those results and our hand-held Apogee's.

The Apogee manual acknowledges some of the variances, Page 6 of the manual contains a chart showing the wavelengths measured by the MQ-200 and page 7 details variances in measuring fluorescent, MH, sodium light sources compared to sunlight with variances of 2%~10% - but certainly nothing close to the differences we're seeing.

[rostato]

Originally Posted by luibove

Thanx Bud! do you have the 40 deg optics on you current setup?

I have 40 degree optics. I kinda wish I could have gotten the 70 degree optics with the upgrade kit in order to play with placement of them.

[reefsurfing]

Ok so my new Sol Blue modules are mounted over my 90 gallon AGA tank. I need to fine tune my light tree for optimal coverage but im very very happy with the results. I do not have a controller as of yet so everythings at full blast 100% blue/white. My corals have been moved to the darkest corners and I am lowering my photo period to maybe 3-4 hours a day until I receive my controller.

anyway heres the video, enjoy...

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by reefsurfing

Ok so my new Sol Blue modules are mounted over my 90 gallon AGA tank...

Great Job AJ, those will work great on your tank. Once you extend the parallel section of the light tree and spread them out, you'll have great coverage. It appears you have a LOT of PAR at the substrate (definitely want hide your Frags for a while, probably issue sun-block to the clowns as well )

I've found that as a rule of thumb with the AIs, if it looks bright, it's not too much PAR, it's way too much.

Congrats and keep us posted!

[CalmSeasQuest]

I just received the SOL Blue pucks to upgrade my AIs...


16 W/B/RB pucks along with tiny, paper spacers that are fitted below the optics.

The pucks appear to very high quality, The dies are mounted on a heavy aluminum plate.

This gives you an idea as to the thickness.

I'm not sure if I'll have an opportunity to get them installed tonight, but most assuredly within the next few days - more pics and PAR numbers will follow.

[txbonds]

Looks good.

Did they come with the 70 degree optics for the outer LED's to mimic the way the new ones are coming?

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

I just received the SOL Blue pucks to upgrade my AIs...

I'm not sure if I'll have an opportunity to get them installed tonight, but most assuredly within the next few days - more pics and PAR numbers will follow.

[Logzor]

How many of these units would it take to properly cover a 48x30x24 tank? I was thinking 4 but after seeing some pictures, maybe 3 would work?

[scubasteve06]

Man calmseas you've got me thinking about saving up even more money and forgoing my skimmer upgrade to a ATB to getting AI modules for my tank! Agh stop it!!! The skimmer I have now works good don't get me wrong but I want it all!

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by txbonds

Looks good.

Did they come with the 70 degree optics for the outer LED's to mimic the way the new ones are coming?

They ship without optics, although I believe you could order the 70 degree lenses if desired. I want to stick with the 40's as my tank dimensions are small, and I like the ability to have the light hung well above the tank. For larger tanks, the 70s are a real benefit.

Originally Posted by Logzor

How many of these units would it take to properly cover a 48x30x24 tank? I was thinking 4 but after seeing some pictures, maybe 3 would work?

Define "properly" ?

AI says 1 per 12". Many of us have established one unit raised can cover far more territory, but I think your 30" depth prevents you from rotating the units lengthwise. It also depends on your tolerance for shaded area, and whether you have livestock in every nook-and-cranny in the back and sides of the tank. I'd start with three, mounted traditionally about 12"~14" above the tank to start. If you didn't like to coverage, it's simple (cost aside) to just slide on another unit later.

[ccLansman]

Sorry guess i should have mentioned im using a apogee corrected for electric lighting not sunlight. Is that what you guys are also using?

[Dark_Reef]

Originally Posted by Logzor

How many of these units would it take to properly cover a 48x30x24 tank? I was thinking 4 but after seeing some pictures, maybe 3 would work?

I would put 4, two rows parallel with the tank.

I have 4 over a 36x36x27, It give you more coverage and you can turn them down. Any less and you will have dark areas unless you put them high or have your corals in the middle.

[rostato]

Originally Posted by Logzor

How many of these units would it take to properly cover a 48x30x24 tank? I was thinking 4 but after seeing some pictures, maybe 3 would work?

I think 3 would work. Just don't plan on growing SPS at the sand bed, and plant your corals accordingly.

[rostato]

Oh, and I got my upgrade in the mail today too. Very excited, but also sick as a dog, so I will not be able to install them today unless I get a wild hair up my @#$

[rostato]

Alright, I decided to suck it up and install the upgrade. I have to say, the AI LED units quality is second to none. The craftsmanship is amazing. trhese things are built like tanks.

So here are some pics of the upgrade process. This way, there is no confusion, or worries for people who might think they cannot do the upgrade. If you cannot do this upgrade, you should not be in this hobby

You need 2 tools, to do the upgrade, and maybe 30 minutes max. It took me 30 to take down the fixture, do the upgrade while taking pictures, and re hang the unit. Also, keep in mind I have a nasty flu

The tool you need are a 5/64" allen wrench, and a #1 phillips head screwdriver.

Start by taking off the cover with the allen wrench



Then you'll see this...



Start removing the optics...



All optics removed



Then remove the fan wires




Then there are two screws to removed the circuit board



I had to remove a sticker to get to one of the screws

[rostato]

Now there are 3 screws in each puck. I am not going to show the removal of those, but it's easy. Some of the pucks needed a little twist to come off the board.

Here is the heat sink without the pucks


Now install in reverse order. I took pictures of the re-installation, but it is entirely unnecessary to post.


Don't forget to install the paper sleeves over the pucks and between the optics...



Also, the pucks should fit like in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAAya-7qdCU

Here they are on my zero edge light tree


Here is my new light schedule for the profilux. I am hopeing to get AWESOME color all day, and still give the corals enought PAR. I only wish I had access to a PAR meter. The red line is the blue LED's, and the black is the white LED's

[rostato]

I hate photobucket. It always turns my pictures sideways. Anyway, I am off to sleep off this flu. Tomorrow, I will post a video if the different light settings.