240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense)

[shutiny]

I am truely impressed!!! Would you ever consider doing some private consulting works?

[gone feral]

I've just finished reading this part 2 thread and am so thoroughly impressed....the design, photos. I couldn't not give props.
Now to go and read thru part I and the weatherson.com. So much for work this afternoon...Thanks Joseph

[weatherson]

shutiny: Thank you and you have an email.

gone feral: Congrats on reading all of this "half" of the split thread but now you have quite a bit more to read if you want to finish the whole thread. Part one is substantial, to say the least. A tip... my website is a much condensed version if you don't have a couple of days to read the thread. Good luck and sorry in advance to having contributed to your lack of productivity.

Joseph

[gone feral]

Joseph, I can't find the flexible PVC pipe that you used on the CL system - stuff that will fint into the slip fittings. Where should I look?
And I wondered about the CL suction holes in the rear glass - is this glass tempered and who drilled it? I have a 175 bfront by Oceanic that I would like to drill but not sure if I have to special order it like that or can drill it myself.
sorry if you have covered this already but I only made it to page 30 in the first thread yesterday.
thanks

[armygreen11]

You can get flexible PVC tubing in 1" and 1.5" sizes at Lowes if you have one of them near you. I think aquatic ecosystems sells it too. www.aquaticeco.com

The back glass of your oceanic isn't tempered (95% sure) but the bottom almost certainly is, so you can drill the back if you know how. You'll either need a diamond hole saw of the appropriate size for the bulkheads you want to use and a drill press, or a good dremel, a rotozip tile bit, and nerves of steel. Some LFSs will drill tanks for ~$10-$20/hole.

[gone feral]

Thanks armygreen11
I suppose for the cost a few more $$ I will try to get it professionally done.

To weatherson or any other veterans....I posted a thread in Equipment to try and get more info on the components and set up of the rather advanced control system (ACII or III) and the associated hardware weatherson (et al...tlp) but got no response. If it's not too far off subject, I would really appreciate some guidance as to how the gear is hooked up....the controller, X10, probes, neptune switch boxes, filters etc. Some sort of schematic dwg generic or one from someone's setup would be invaluable. Even after scouring the various forums and net, it's still not clear enough to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance

[gone feral]

weatherson...where are you?!

More photos please...I finished the first thread finally, even got paid for it!

I got help on the control system thread so disregard that i suppose.

Armygreen11, you are correct, the rear glass is not tempered in the Oceanic tank...the 175 bfront anyhow.

[Ehydo]

Originally posted by gone feral
Joseph, I can't find the flexible PVC pipe

Look in Home Depot where they sell rubber tubing. It usually is mixed in with that. Most of the employees do not know what it is or what you can use it for.

[melev]

Home Depot and Lowes tends to stock it at head-height or higher. It is referred to as SpaFlex as well, and is white. Wander around the plumbing dept and you should see it.

[jarhed]

Originally posted by Ehydo
Look in Home Depot where they sell rubber tubing. It usually is mixed in with that. Most of the employees do not know what it is or what you can use it for.

.... nor do they know what their names are, nor can they add 2 + 2, nor do they realize that there are customers waiting in the isles for help cutting chain or spaflex, ...... but I digress...

Lowes has it too. It's usually hidden up top like Melev says. I pretty much just pulled out a knife and cut my own after waiting 20 minutes and pressing the call button for someone to come cut it for me. They hate that, but too bad. Guess I have to do their job for them. Take it to the counter and they'll have to run back and get the price and measure it for you. Hate to say it, but it's most likely what your going to have to do in either store.

[bigreddog]

Well, I just finished reading this half of the thread and all I can say is... Oh my god!

You have done some amazing work and the photos are incredible. I almost went back and read the first half of the thread but decided to tour your website instead. Very nice site too. You've given me plenty of ideas for future upgrades to my system. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[weatherson]

First of all, sorry it's taken so long to get back here but I had my computer go down and have been working on it as of late. BSOD and everything.

gone feral: Looks like everyone gave you the regular, local places to look for Spaflex hose so I will just add the online sources I know of.

Aquatic Eco Systems - Black Spa Flex

Aquatic Eco Systems - White Spa Flex

Savko - White Spa Flex

Plumbing Supply - White Spa Flex

I'm sure there are more but these are the sites I have used and been very satisfied with.

As to how the ACII is installed, it's fairly straight forward. The controller sends control signals through the power lines via a module connected to it by a short phone line. This module is plugged in to the AC lines at an outlet. Then, you place control modules with specific addresses between the equipment to be controlled and an AC outlet. They receive the control signals through the AC lines. That's basically all there is to it. You can get further information from the Neptune website with their owners manuals in PDF format HERE.

bigreddog: Thanks for the kind words and I'm pleased you enjoyed yourself and were able to find some information you can use. You are very welcome.

Joseph

[gone feral]

Thanks Joseph....this thread has advanced my knowledge and understanding immensely I feel. Hat's off to you for your generosity and patience.
chris

Looking forward to new photos!!!

[gone feral]

Thanks all, especially Joseph, this thread has greatly advanced my knowledge and understanding of how to do things right without going broke. Hats off to you for your generosity and patience....looking forward to more of your photography too
chris

[gone feral]

oops

[weatherson]

Chris: You are very welcome. You are very welcome.

Joseph

[chrisT]

Joseph,

You have an awesome tank, and the manner you go about documenting the construction and your many inventions is invaluable to us new reefers. Thanks!

I was wondering when you made the modification to your overflow teeth did this lower your water level, and on your light box have you had to replace the acrylic sheilds yet?

[weatherson]

chrisT: Thank you very much for the kind words. I'm pleased you were able to gain from my documentation.

When I altered the weirs by first removing most of the teeth, the tank's water level lowered just slightly. In fact, it did so less than I preferred so I then put the Dremel back into service and lowered the bottom level of the weirs and this did the job. The reason I wanted the tank water level lower by about 3/8" was that I had always been able to see the top edge of the removable back panel and more importantly, to help prevent the splashing of the underside of the tank's top glass braces (calcium buildup issue). This all worked quite well.

No, there is no reason to have replaced the acrylic shields. They have not discolored or changed in any other way that would require replacement. I do have to periodically clean them though.

Joseph

[weatherson]

I'd discussed this prior several times in this thread but thought I would add an image to better explain what I sometimes struggle(d) to get across. It's the means in which I leveled my tank stand and is very simple in use. With larger tanks, it's not always practical to use a common level and especially when you consider the very small bubble level most utilize. Slight differences in the bubble position can mean relatively large variances in height. This technique uses water and our friend, gravity to do a better job. And, before you throw your hand up to proclaim the latest and greatest consumer laser levels, bare in mind most of these still rely on bubble levels. Anyway, this technique uses a clear hose of a length a couple feet longer than the span of the area to be leveled. Then, simply add water to the hose ensuring all air is removed except for about a foot at either end. This also sometimes involves two people but clamps can be fabricated to hold the hose ends in place. Hold the first end of the hose with the end with air about a foot above the point of reference. The water line within should be within an inch or so of this point but thee is no need to get it precisely there yet. With this end held in place, move the other end of the hose up or down until the other end's water level lines up exactly with the top surface that is your reference point. Once allowed to level and stabilize, the water level at the second end of the hose will be at an exact height to that of the opposite end. This second end can then be moved on to other points needing leveling and then by following the same procedure. Hope this helps explain this a little better along with the following diagram I made to visually represent this for further clarity.



Joseph

[melev]

Joseph, we used to use water levels to level 80' x 24' mobile homes. It works nicely for huge spans.

[Mickey]

Joseph:

How far below the bracing is your water level?

I've got some issues with my water level that I'm trying to work out. Tank is very slightly out of level because the floor settled a one side (in spite of having a support beam installed in the basement). I'm tempted to try to jack up one side 1/4 inch or so but husband says that's a bad idea and could cause lots of other problems with the house. Sorry for the digression.

It's always a pleasure reviewing your thread.

Mickey

[weatherson]

Marc: I used this technique to level the pergola I built in our back yard too. It's a very handy way to get things at the same height relative to the earth.

Mickey: It depends on which side of the tank you measure the gap between the water and the braces and which closed loop is on at that time. I actually have high pressure sides of the tank when the closed loop of the opposite side is on. I was amazed to find this but it was there. Typically though, the water is about 3/4" from the glass top supports. Sorry to hear of your settling floor.

I should also note that I increased my return flow at the same time I lowered my weirs. This was one of the reasons I converted the stock returns to drains and added a new return over the tank. This extra flow also slightly raised the water level within the tank and required further reduction in height of the weirs. Now I have my return pump (Sequence 4300) wide open compared to the 3/4 open I used to run. This along with the closed loops provides a huge amount of flow in the tank.

Joseph

[NuclearReefs]

Originally posted by melev
Thanks. I don't believe I've ever heard of anyone dimming their VHOs before. And I love the new look of their site.

This isnt true marc.. I told you about the solar dimmer before. I even remember telling you that A to T Lamps wouldnt sell them because they arent UL Listed.. The solar 1000 have x-10 modules like your Aqua Controller as well.. At least they used to. We had some of the first ones at the store I managed in atlanta years ago.. and this is what the additional 4 plug outlet on a 430/660 ice cap are for.... :P~

[NuclearReefs]

System looking awsome BTW Joseph,, Im back tracking trying to catch up . this is my first night at home before 11:30 pm in 12 weeks....

Nathan

[RGibson]

Joseph do you know of anyone who has chech the watts used on a 6200 tunze stream powerhead ?