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#276 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: RI
Posts: 1,085
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I steer clear of antifreeze. Lets see, less heat transfer and poisonous. No thank you!
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#277 |
Moved On
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 55
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Where can you get the plastic bulkhead piece?
Woudl it be useful to have a bulkhead AND overflow? That way, you can drain water for water changes and have an overflow... |
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#278 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 102
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I get my bulkhead fittings from plumbingsupply.com. These are heavy duty fittings. You can get schedule 40 or schedule 80 bulkhead fittings, but I prefer the idea of a more heavy duty fitting that the schedule 40 since I do not want to tear the tank down to replace a faulty one later. Be sure to match the hole saw to the required dimension of the bulkhead hole requirement before drilling.
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#279 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 102
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I believe a coast-to-coast type weir overflow serviced by bulkheads feeding a sump with any partial water change or top off occuring at the sump is the best way to go.
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#280 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 254
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Quote:
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#281 |
Moved On
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 55
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you realize that schedule 40 is heavier duty than schedule 80 right?
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#282 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: North Royalton, Ohio
Posts: 1,104
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Quote:
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John Janda C-SEA Vice-President 2013-2014 Signature spanked, regrettably removed. Current Tank Info: 55 Gal. mixed reef w/10 gal sump/refuge Euroreef cs6-2+, GEO 618Bowman Calcium Reactor, GEO Kalk Reactor, AC2 controller,4-110W VHO W/Icecap 660, Phoneix 14K 150W HQI. Unified 120 Gal.,120 Gal.,75Gal,75Gal Sump/refugium in progress. |
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#283 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Reading, PA
Posts: 542
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this is a dumb question, and completely off the topic, but what does "HTH" stand for? I keep seeing it over and over.
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______________________ 220g mixed reef |
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#284 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Reading, PA
Posts: 542
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this is a dumb question, and completely off the topic, but what does "HTH" stand for? I keep seeing it over and over.
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______________________ 220g mixed reef |
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#285 |
Alleged Lounge Moron
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: BigSkyCountry
Posts: 459
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HTH = Hope That (or This) Helps
HTH, ![]() From the RC main page, left column, near the bottom, reefkeeping acronyms: http://reefcentral.com/modules.php?s...&eid=2<r=all (just so happens HTH isn't there)
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"Outliving our pets is the price we pay for the unconditional love they give us" ~Barto's Mom~ AUGUST 2009 TOTM! Current Tank Info: no more fish tanks, nothing, nada, gone! |
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#286 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 102
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dtarnanth- you were asking how many holes you can expect with a hole saw from Lau. Of course, the glass thickness makes a difference. I started drilling yesterday on my 130 and 300. The 70mm hole saw put two holes in the 130 at 1/2 inch thick and three in the 300 at 5/8 inch thick. The fifth hole that was in the 300 took about two hours. The next hole was with a new hole saw on the 300 and only took 25 minutes. I am going at 500-1000 rpm with plenty of water from a squirt bottle and not too much pressure. At the price of these hole saws, I will spend the money to get more hole saws to take less time than worry about how many holes I can get from each one.
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#287 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Reading, PA
Posts: 542
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ah, thanks. i was just asking because I was wondering if I should just go ahead and get another one. I guess I'll see how it goes.
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______________________ 220g mixed reef |
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#288 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 1,136
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by my 3rd hole thru 1/2" glass the first bit was very tired. luckily i had another new one handy to do the fourth.
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#289 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Co. Waterford Ireland
Posts: 240
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Placed my order with Lau - can't wait to get the bits and to start drilling.
This thread is great and have given me the confidence to do the drilling. Not going for the test one first as I need 4 holes from 1 bit. Will let you know how I get on.
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BallaBooyeaH - reefing in Ireland Current Tank Info: New 90 in progress |
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#290 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 1,136
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If you can make a template with a piece of plywood it really helps. you'll need a regular holesaw bit for the plywood. Then just clamp the ply to the tank to get the hole started. Really helped for me, no freehanding required!
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#291 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Co. Waterford Ireland
Posts: 240
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Goldstripe - Where did you get them inlet strainers? Are they threaded?
Intresting - I am looking at just using a rounded gate - Yours look great. I need one for a 2" bulkhead. Where are they from?
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BallaBooyeaH - reefing in Ireland Current Tank Info: New 90 in progress |
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#292 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 1,136
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Quote:
The ball valves are Hayward True Union valves. Aquatic Eco has them as well. I got lucky and found those 4 on ebay for 1/2 the price. I have seen 2" models on ebay as well. |
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#293 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 2,025
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I have a 55gal AGA and I got my bits from Lau(45mm & 60mm).
Should I do the coast to coast overflow? Is the c-t-c needed in a 55? And if I do should I drill two holes for the overflow or would 1 be enough? Thanks in advance
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A HOUSE isn't a HOME without saltwater on the floor! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire, I-Tech 200 Skimmer, Snapper, Tunze |
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#294 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 1,136
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Quote:
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#295 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 2,025
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I like that idea, but I'm affraid of the external boxes leaking or worse yet falling off......
__________________
A HOUSE isn't a HOME without saltwater on the floor! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire, I-Tech 200 Skimmer, Snapper, Tunze |
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#296 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 1,136
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silicone is what's holding your tank together. It wouldn't fall off if you did it right. I understand what you mean though. I was worried when I siliconed my internal overflow in. I worried that the silicone would not hold the weight of the glass but it is unbelievably strong.
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#297 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New York City
Posts: 287
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Goldstrip,
I'm working on a similiar design on a 90 gallon with a calfo overflow and a closed loop. Are your returns coming over the top? If so why not just drill some returns below the overflow. This is what I was considering. I'm will be using 2 1-1/2" holes in the overflow and 2 1" returns. For the closed loop, I will have 2 1" drains with 2 3/4" returns. The sump will be run by a mag7 and the closed loop a mag12. Each return will be split and loc-line used to direct flow. What do you think? |
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#298 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jville, FL
Posts: 1,136
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Quote:
As far as your drains and returns, sounds great. Mag 7 with 2 1.5" drains will be silent and you could close 1 drain completely and still have no worries about overflowing the tank. I have an Iwaki MD70 return pump and I can almost close one drain completely. Are you drilling for the closed loop? I suspect that you are. On a 90 you may want a tad more flow than a Mag12. If you like mags, think about stepping up to the 18. If you're not sold on the mags, there are plenty of other options. I chose a Dart but that may be too much in a 90, although you could make it work great. Have you looked at Oceans Motions units? They are great for closed loops because they alternate the current. Again, it depends on your budget constraints. This is why my 150 has taken me a year to put together. Money and also planning and research. |
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#299 | |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Reading, PA
Posts: 542
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Quote:
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#300 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New York City
Posts: 287
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Those pumps are just what I have on hand. I suppose I can set it up and if I find that I need more I can always upgrade them. For my drains do you think I need to make the external durso or are they large enough that it wouldn't be necessary? They drains would probably never be below the water line considering the amount of flow going trhough them.
i have not started to drill but when you mentioned drilling the returns in the overflow, would you then use loc-line to go over the overflow and point back down? Could you explain further. Just curious, I thought I would need to drill below the overflow but like your scenario better if I can hide some of the returns. |
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