Kessil AP 700 Owners Gather Here!

[gus6464]

Originally Posted by ktownhero

Yes, discounting violates the agreement... That's the definition of not being allowed to do something. You're not disagreeing with me.

Also what you described is *not* price fixing. Price fixing is when competitors agree to sell their products at certain prices to control the market. Totally different thing that's not applicable here.

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You said that ecotech forbids retailers from discounting and that is not true. They can discount to their hearts content the only thing is dealing with the possible repercussions of it. I say possible because most manufacturers could care less if a retailer is violating MAP. They might act like they do but in the end if a retailer is doing it on the down low they won't lift a finger as they are selling units.

[ktownhero]

Originally Posted by gus6464

You said that ecotech forbids retailers from discounting and that is not true. They can discount to their hearts content the only thing is dealing with the possible repercussions of it. I say possible because most manufacturers could care less if a retailer is violating MAP. They might act like they do but in the end if a retailer is doing it on the down low they won't lift a finger as they are selling units.

This is silly, you're not even disagreeing with me.

[Confuse]

How do we update the firmware again? Gotta hook up my computer to the light, right?

[bif24701]

Originally Posted by Confuse

How do we update the firmware again? Gotta hook up my computer to the light, right?

What ever program or app that you use will determine and update the light automatically.


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[gus6464]

How long did it take for you to get the email with the beta info? I shot an email to them 2 days ago and haven't heard back yet. Unless someone can send me the email with the links if they already got it.

[bif24701]

Originally Posted by gus6464

How long did it take for you to get the email with the beta info? I shot an email to them 2 days ago and haven't heard back yet. Unless someone can send me the email with the links if they already got it.

I have not gotten and email either,


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[bif24701]

When I requested the iPhone beta I think it was a few days


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[Confuse]

I sent my request yesterday, but I don't expect them to respond over the weekend. Hopefully by Monday.

[Enterprise7]

I have had 2 units on my Reefer 450 since January. I have had a lot of SPS issues with color loss and birdsnest plain dying. I am currently at 8" above the water with 28% max intensity. I tried using the seneye to set it, but that was a epic fail as I was up around 70% and fried a lot of stuff. I was just about to go to T5, but I figured I would give the forums a try. I see the new diffusion kits. Are they worthwhile? I was running the deep blue mostly, but have changed to a middle blue for now. My anemone is happy, and the zoas are only doing so so.

Any suggestions?

[vhuang168]

I would look else where other than the lights for your sps issues. There have been plenty of tanks with successful sps growth n color for the lights to be the unknown.

Do the acros have polyp extension but bleached? What are your water parameters exactly?


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[Enterprise7]

I have growth and polyp extension. Just very poor color. My Red Setosa and a Yellow/Green Acro do well,but all the others are essentially brown. I have German Blue digi that usually grows well that is only doing so so. When this first started to happen, I did a lot of water changes and testing and could not find anything outside of low iron that could have caused this. I also changed the RO/DI filters at the time. I have bought 2 acros over the summer and both lost color within a week and the light is the main culprit.

I will do another round of water testing. At first I wanted to blame the water as it started when I started to do NOPOX dosing, but I only do 5ml a day with 120 gallons of volume and I have no algae issues at all. Coraline is growing slowly, but the coral color remains poor. If I knew what PAR to aim for I would try that again, but trying for typical SPS numbers led to bleaching.

[gus6464]

Originally Posted by Enterprise7

I have growth and polyp extension. Just very poor color. My Red Setosa and a Yellow/Green Acro do well,but all the others are essentially brown. I have German Blue digi that usually grows well that is only doing so so. When this first started to happen, I did a lot of water changes and testing and could not find anything outside of low iron that could have caused this. I also changed the RO/DI filters at the time. I have bought 2 acros over the summer and both lost color within a week and the light is the main culprit.

I will do another round of water testing. At first I wanted to blame the water as it started when I started to do NOPOX dosing, but I only do 5ml a day with 120 gallons of volume and I have no algae issues at all. Coraline is growing slowly, but the coral color remains poor. If I knew what PAR to aim for I would try that again, but trying for typical SPS numbers led to bleaching.

What color setting?

[Enterprise7]

I have spent the most time at the bluest setting. I am currently in the middle of the blue settings as it looks a little better for my spouse.

[gus6464]

Originally Posted by Enterprise7

I have spent the most time at the bluest setting. I am currently in the middle of the blue settings as it looks a little better for my spouse.

Are you using the ipad or the phone app? Are you able to modify the red and green with whatever color setting you choose?

[bif24701]

Originally Posted by Enterprise7

I have growth and polyp extension. Just very poor color. My Red Setosa and a Yellow/Green Acro do well,but all the others are essentially brown. I have German Blue digi that usually grows well that is only doing so so. When this first started to happen, I did a lot of water changes and testing and could not find anything outside of low iron that could have caused this. I also changed the RO/DI filters at the time. I have bought 2 acros over the summer and both lost color within a week and the light is the main culprit.

I will do another round of water testing. At first I wanted to blame the water as it started when I started to do NOPOX dosing, but I only do 5ml a day with 120 gallons of volume and I have no algae issues at all. Coraline is growing slowly, but the coral color remains poor. If I knew what PAR to aim for I would try that again, but trying for typical SPS numbers led to bleaching.

Coral health and color are so much more tightly related to water chemistry and stability that lighting really doesn't even matter all that much as long as they are appropriate. You really should investigate further and time. Some corals need time as well.

Be my guest to change lights but it is very unlikely to be your problem. In fact it is more probable that you are misusing the lights (sorry no offense meant).

AP700 fixtures are some of the most powerful ever made for hobbiest. You may be over doing it, you said your colors are bleached, that's a big clue.

I don't dare take mine over 70% and that took 3 months to acclimate too. Slowly taking it from 30%. Still I have to put some montis very low or in shaded areas or they bleach in a day.

Get a PAR meter, aim for 200-300 in the middle of your tank.

Also, after a coral was bleached it can take months to recover.




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[bif24701]

Originally Posted by Enterprise7

I have had 2 units on my Reefer 450 since January. I have had a lot of SPS issues with color loss and birdsnest plain dying. I am currently at 8" above the water with 28% max intensity. I tried using the seneye to set it, but that was a epic fail as I was up around 70% and fried a lot of stuff. I was just about to go to T5, but I figured I would give the forums a try. I see the new diffusion kits. Are they worthwhile? I was running the deep blue mostly, but have changed to a middle blue for now. My anemone is happy, and the zoas are only doing so so.

Any suggestions?

You went to 70% too fast. The zoes and anemone are doing ok because they didn't get fried. Most likely because they are mounted lower or shaded. Middle blue is ok, didn't really matter the spectrum so much. If you want colors, the more blue the better. Diffusion kits just lower the amount of skimmer, that's all.

What are the dimensions or your tank? Nutrients?
ALK?

High light needs higher food amounts.

Many things can cause corals to lose color but I think you fried yours. Take it slow this time, go up no more than 5% per week until you hit the sweet spot (~200-300ish). Corals can take months to recover faster being fried, it can kill coral.

I just got a monti frag pack, all of my red ones are doing well but the green one fried when I mounted it and almost killed it. Be more careful and go slow.

On top of all that, none of it will matter if you do not keep your water chemistry correct, appropriately levels met, and stable.

Good luck!


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[bif24701]

Originally Posted by Enterprise7

I have growth and polyp extension. Just very poor color. My Red Setosa and a Yellow/Green Acro do well,but all the others are essentially brown. I have German Blue digi that usually grows well that is only doing so so. When this first started to happen, I did a lot of water changes and testing and could not find anything outside of low iron that could have caused this. I also changed the RO/DI filters at the time. I have bought 2 acros over the summer and both lost color within a week and the light is the main culprit.

I will do another round of water testing. At first I wanted to blame the water as it started when I started to do NOPOX dosing, but I only do 5ml a day with 120 gallons of volume and I have no algae issues at all. Coraline is growing slowly, but the coral color remains poor. If I knew what PAR to aim for I would try that again, but trying for typical SPS numbers led to bleaching.

What number have you tried? How are you measuring PAR? Where are the corals mounted? Brown/dark corals could be from too much nutrients and pale corals could be from not enough. COULD be.

To be 100% honest I love my Kessil AP700s and will not give them up if I was paid too. My friend and local club member is the owner and founder of SBreef lights, cost much less and will grow coral with color just as well, I have seen it. Keep trouble shooting, check equipment, maybe a magnet is rusting in your tank. Stray voltage, ALK swings, nutrients, PESTS, many possibles.

In my very humble opinion, changing lights will not fix the problem.


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[hitawaah]

I am setting up my 300 (96X24X30)gallon tank now. I have read this entire thread and I have just purchased the kessil AP700 to go along with my 4 Radion xr30w pros. At the time of buying the radions I hadn't heard much about the 700. That being said I am gonna put the kessil right in the middle and run the radions on the outside. I am using a canopy and am planning on mounting the kessil 7" off the top of the water and the radions about 9" off. That will leave about 3"of space from the canopy for the radions and 5 inches of space for the kessil. I'm not trying to get off topic(with the radions) just want to know if what I'm about to do with the kessil seems ok (overheating issues, too close to the water, possible cooking corals) It seems to me the kessil is awesome for some people and other people have problems consistantly with it. I will be eventually getting SPS when my tank is completely cycled (I have about 400 lbs of dry rock pukani and marco that I will be seeding) and the parameters are staying solid, I know not to rush the process. Thanks for taking the time to read this any suggestions are greatly appreciated as this will be my first full reef tank, I have had FOWLR and fish only for about 20 years off and on.

[gus6464]

Originally Posted by hitawaah

I am setting up my 300 (96X24X30)gallon tank now. I have read this entire thread and I have just purchased the kessil AP700 to go along with my 4 Radion xr30w pros. At the time of buying the radions I hadn't heard much about the 700. That being said I am gonna put the kessil right in the middle and run the radions on the outside. I am using a canopy and am planning on mounting the kessil 7" off the top of the water and the radions about 9" off. That will leave about 3"of space from the canopy for the radions and 5 inches of space for the kessil. I'm not trying to get off topic(with the radions) just want to know if what I'm about to do with the kessil seems ok (overheating issues, too close to the water, possible cooking corals) It seems to me the kessil is awesome for some people and other people have problems consistantly with it. I will be eventually getting SPS when my tank is completely cycled (I have about 400 lbs of dry rock pukani and marco that I will be seeding) and the parameters are staying solid, I know not to rush the process. Thanks for taking the time to read this any suggestions are greatly appreciated as this will be my first full reef tank, I have had FOWLR and fish only for about 20 years off and on.

You are going to need ventilation on that canopy. A couple of fans will do it.

[bif24701]

Originally Posted by hitawaah

I am setting up my 300 (96X24X30)gallon tank now. I have read this entire thread and I have just purchased the kessil AP700 to go along with my 4 Radion xr30w pros. At the time of buying the radions I hadn't heard much about the 700. That being said I am gonna put the kessil right in the middle and run the radions on the outside. I am using a canopy and am planning on mounting the kessil 7" off the top of the water and the radions about 9" off. That will leave about 3"of space from the canopy for the radions and 5 inches of space for the kessil. I'm not trying to get off topic(with the radions) just want to know if what I'm about to do with the kessil seems ok (overheating issues, too close to the water, possible cooking corals) It seems to me the kessil is awesome for some people and other people have problems consistantly with it. I will be eventually getting SPS when my tank is completely cycled (I have about 400 lbs of dry rock pukani and marco that I will be seeding) and the parameters are staying solid, I know not to rush the process. Thanks for taking the time to read this any suggestions are greatly appreciated as this will be my first full reef tank, I have had FOWLR and fish only for about 20 years off and on.

Mounting should be fine for cooling
Please, go slow. If you suspect a problem research it before making changes, at least if it isn't obvious. Changes are not good for SPS.

Also. Setting the lights too high will kill corals in hours! Acclimation need to be taken seriously and slow. Also get a good PAR meter if you can afford it, the Seneye is good for setting up LEDs.

The apps for the Kessil at launch wasn't really ready, now they have fixed the issues and have made them great lights.

Good luck and come back with pictures.




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[bif24701]

Originally Posted by gus6464

You are going to need ventilation on that canopy. A couple of fans will do it.

Oh yes, if it's completely enclosed especially!


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[hitawaah]

Originally Posted by gus6464

You are going to need ventilation on that canopy. A couple of fans will do it.

Yes I forgot to mention most of the back of the canopy is open and I have 4 Ice cap fans that have temp. guages to kick them on and off. Thanks for the input.

[hitawaah]

Originally Posted by bif24701

Mounting should be fine for cooling
Please, go slow. If you suspect a problem research it before making changes, at least if it isn't obvious. Changes are not good for SPS.

Also. Setting the lights too high will kill corals in hours! Acclimation need to be taken seriously and slow. Also get a good PAR meter if you can afford it, the Seneye is good for setting up LEDs.

The apps for the Kessil at launch wasn't really ready, now they have fixed the issues and have made them great lights.

Good luck and come back with pictures.
Yes I am reading as much as I can about coral and clams(I know I'm a year away from getting my first maxima). My first rule is nothing good happens fast in a reef tank. After the tank has cycled I am going to put a couple of fish in it before I even think about corals. I do not want to kill anything because of lack of knowledge or carelesness when there is so much to read and learn on these forums.
I am very glad to hear the issues with the kessil have been fixed I was a little worried about that.



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[hitawaah]

Also is seneye better than the apex or the apogee par meters?

[gus6464]

Originally Posted by hitawaah

Also is seneye better than the apex or the apogee par meters?

Apogee SQ-500/520 right now is the best one that doesn't cost a fortune (LiCor LI-192).

SQ-500 requires a control box or a multimeter. Theatrus sells a cheap circuit board that attaches to a cheap multimeter that does the conversion for you.

SQ-520 is the same as the 500 but it has a USB connector at the end to connect to your computer. With this one you need to have a computer with you at all times to get a reading or a cheap windows tablet.

It really depends on what you want to spend. If you want to drop under $200 I would go for either the Apogee SQ-420 or the Seneye. Both of these options require a computer though.