ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[africangrey]

I don't really understand why people are installing reefbrite to their sunpower, for the color pop or shimmering? If it's shimmering I would op for a single point source like Kessil over the reefbrite's multi point source.

[hbrochs]

Originally Posted by africangrey

I don't really understand why people are installing reefbrite to their sunpower, for the color pop or shimmering? If it's shimmering I would op for a single point source like Kessil over the reefbrite's multi point source.

I'd be adding for both the color pop and shimmer.

I have a 4 foot long tank, so not sure one Kessil would do the trick.

Then if I buy two Kessils, will look odd I think (the cosmetics of the light rather thank the contents of the tank).

Also two kessils I think are more $ than two reef brites.

[Logzor]

Originally Posted by africangrey

I don't really understand why people are installing reefbrite to their sunpower, for the color pop or shimmering? If it's shimmering I would op for a single point source like Kessil over the reefbrite's multi point source.

The Reefbrites are great options to add to a T5 fixture because they add a lot of color with the royal blue LEDs that T5's just can't deliver. The shimmer is minimal unless only the LEDs are on. If your T5 fixture is covering most of the aquarium then there is no good way to add single point source fixtures, plus the Reefbrites can bolt right on to ATI fixtures in some cases. They're also a great option if you have a wide aquarium and your T5 tubes have insufficient coverage, the Reefbrites can tilt to the desired angle to significantly increase coverage.

I really liked how they looked on my old T5 light before I got the Powermodule. However now I'm much happier with the reflectors removed! Way better light spread that looks more like the Reefbrites (see my previous post).

[africangrey]

Thanks for the clarifications guys, I am in the middle of choosing either a Powermodule or a Sunpower and need a decision soon before the black friday next week. So if you were doing to do this all over again would you choose Sunpower + reef brite or powermodule for a full SPS system.

[illjoshlli]

Originally Posted by Logzor

OK guys here it is. I went ahead and removed one of the metal LED reflectors. Remember each of these clusters are 75w which is the same power as the old AI Sol Blues. You could argue that you can almost light the entire tank just with the LEDs. Having said that it's a lot of LED power in a very compact module. What you get is a beam of concentrated light right under the LEDs that is much higher than the rest of the tank.

Check out how the hot spot goes away after removing the reflector. Crazy. There is a piece of cardboard over the top of my tank so I can demonstrate the difference (and not lose the hex screws). Posted from my phone...sorry for the gigantic photos...

Interesting. I didn't realize it was so easy to take that off. I believe the Optics are 90° and the LEDs without them are around 115°-130°. THis would reduce their ability to hit the bottom of the tank hard but give you better spread. How is the bleed into your room? I woudl think it'd be pretty bad. However, you could than lower the light....

Maybe this weekend when I get some time I'll measure the PAR before/after.

[Logzor]

Originally Posted by africangrey

Thanks for the clarifications guys, I am in the middle of choosing either a Powermodule or a Sunpower and need a decision soon before the black friday next week. So if you were doing to do this all over again would you choose Sunpower + reef brite or powermodule for a full SPS system.

I would choose the combo if I did it again but if you like the sleek look then go with the Hybrid. Make sure you get the XHO blue Reefbrites if you go that route.

[Logzor]

It took me no time at all to remove the reflectors and they popped right off. Just be really careful that you don't lose the hex bolts!

What's interesting is that there are actually no optics! I'll take a close up picture later but it's just a piece of metal that focuses the LEDs. I would agree though that the focus is probably 90° based on how the reflector is designed. I guess naturally a LEDs sends light 180° without any kind of reflector or optic? If that is correct then that's what you get without the reflector, just a little LED square without anything around it.

You would expect light bleeding into the room but it doesn't happen because the LED modules are further up into the fixture, so any light spillage it blocked by the T5 reflector and bulbs.

I think the light spread has more value than focusing the LEDs. The PAR hot spot it just too great especially when considering our T5s alone produce substantial PAR. It's VERY easy to forget that EACH module is 75w of LEDs.

Originally Posted by illjoshlli

Interesting. I didn't realize it was so easy to take that off. I believe the Optics are 90° and the LEDs without them are around 115°-130°. THis would reduce their ability to hit the bottom of the tank hard but give you better spread. How is the bleed into your room? I woudl think it'd be pretty bad. However, you could than lower the light....

Maybe this weekend when I get some time I'll measure the PAR before/after.

[biecacka]

This could be especially helpful for those that just use the T5 for color or something other than their primary source of light.

Corey

[Logzor]

Originally Posted by biecacka

This could be especially helpful for those that just use the T5 for color or something other than their primary source of light.

Corey

Definitely. I like it because if I want I could now run more actinic and increase the LED power without harming my corals (hopefully). I need to borrow our clubs PAR meter and test the difference. As it stand I've found that I can't increase the LEDs to over 20% without negative impacts, other users have similar reports but curious if people have had success running them higher.

[soverjas]

Originally Posted by rtparty

4 bulb will be plenty.

I'd personally run a 6 bulb Sunpower but it's not my money and tank

I debated and decided to go with the power module. Came down to the light going on sale and me not being a DYI guy on supplementing LED strips and I also appreciate less cords.

After I bought it i went to get my bulbs from my LFS. I just toss the same combo of 6 Bulbs I ran for years in my cart then was like oh wait I only get to use four. I put the Kz fiji bulb back and think I will run with 2 Blue plus 2 coral plus. I picked up one actinic to play with.

[JPMagyar]

EDIT: My original post was in error. I skipped the video segment showing that it is necessary to feed the end cap into and thru the body.

Replaced the ballast today. A couple notes:

1) You must remove the metal cover that comes with the replacement ballast. It does not fit otherwise because the tolerance is so small. The original ballast had the cover removed as well.

2) The video calls for securing the lock nut inside the hood with a 7 mm wrench so you can free the torque screw holding the ballast in place. I found locking needle nose pliers to be infinitely easier and made breaking the screw free easier as well.

All in all including taking down the lights and rehanging them the project took me 3 hours. The job is time consuming but otherwise not difficult.

[biecacka]

Logzor, where are you in relation to Columbus Ohio?

Corey

[Logzor]

Originally Posted by biecacka

Logzor, where are you in relation to Columbus Ohio?

Corey

I'm about 1.5 hours away right off of I-71 in the Cincinnati area.

[Mikebuurskov]

My pc and the ballast from the lamp tells That the med Chanels is 72.3° so they dont start at all. And lamp is off the tank so its not hot at all.

Firmware is updated.

Its a powermodule 8x39w and 2x75

[hbrochs]

After six weeks with the 6 bulb t5 Sunpower I've come to the realization that my tank likes the t5 better than the hybrid. I've ordered a couple of royal blue t5 bars to attach to the Sunpower.
Gonna sell my Powermodule.


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[h3dgehog]

Originally Posted by hbrochs

After six weeks with the 6 bulb t5 Sunpower I've come to the realization that my tank likes the t5 better than the hybrid. I've ordered a couple of royal blue t5 bars to attach to the Sunpower.
Gonna sell my Powermodule.


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Can you elaborate what you mean by you tank liking the t5 better than the hybrid?

[h3dgehog]

Would a 10 bulb 24" PM have bettwe or worse or comparable par penetration compared to a 250W radium bulb in a good reflector?

I figured the PM would have less penetration compared to 250 watts of light coming from a single source.

[hbrochs]

My rockwork is kinda centered down the four foot length of my tank. This brings my sps pretty high right under the leds (which are centered on the Powermodule). I feel like I was always walking the line with burning my corals with the Sunpower. I'm not great at programming the leds on the Powermodule so I'd just raise the fixture if it looked like the corals needed that.
With the Sunpower, I've been able to slowly lower the fixture to about 8 inches over the water and my corals seem to be growing faster.

I feel like the royal blue led bars in the front and back of the Sunpower will give nice dawn and dusk actinic pop.
Will give an update when I get those hooked up.


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[h3dgehog]

Originally Posted by hbrochs

My rockwork is kinda centered down the four foot length of my tank. This brings my sps pretty high right under the leds (which are centered on the Powermodule). I feel like I was always walking the line with burning my corals with the Sunpower. I'm not great at programming the leds on the Powermodule so I'd just raise the fixture if it looked like the corals needed that.
With the Sunpower, I've been able to slowly lower the fixture to about 8 inches over the water and my corals seem to be growing faster.

I feel like the royal blue led bars in the front and back of the Sunpower will give nice dawn and dusk actinic pop.
Will give an update when I get those hooked up.


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So in other words, the LEDs in the PM were too powerful/concentrated that it caused issues?

[hbrochs]

Yes, I feel like the leds were too powerful in my shallow reef where my SPS was mounted high.


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[Logzor]

Originally Posted by hbrochs

Yes, I feel like the leds were too powerful in my shallow reef where my SPS was mounted high.


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See my post above removing reflectors, no official response from ATI yet. I think it could help some users with this issue.

[biecacka]

H3dgehog, where are you finding a 10 bulb unit at?

Corey

[h3dgehog]

Correction. I menat 8 bulb unit.

I get some monster par with my 250W radium bulb and was looking to the ATI PM for better spread (hate how some of my SPS colonies are growing towards the center and not branching out evenly). However, I don't want to add even more par than what my Radium bulb puts out because I don't want to have my lights hanging any higher.

[biecacka]

What sort of numbers are you getting from your radium? Not to derail the thread. But I run a radium in my tank, 24 inches deep and 12 inches off the water. I was going to try to borrow a par meter to see.
Back to the topic, yes an 8 bulb fixture makes more sense than a 10 bulb. Maybe a different reflector could even out your spread though?

Corey

[h3dgehog]

Originally Posted by biecacka

What sort of numbers are you getting from your radium? Not to derail the thread. But I run a radium in my tank, 24 inches deep and 12 inches off the water. I was going to try to borrow a par meter to see.
Back to the topic, yes an 8 bulb fixture makes more sense than a 10 bulb. Maybe a different reflector could even out your spread though?

Corey

Last I had my radium ~7" from the water surface with a ~19" tank height, I think I got ~400 par on the sandbed.

Between the 4 bulb vs 8 bulb ATI PM, is 8 bulb the way to go? Only thing is that the fixture would go over the tank since the tank dimensions are a bit smaller.