chinese led lights

[Snausy]

Originally Posted by schulzcm

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the info and work. I've tried to read as much of this thread as possible but it is just way too long!

Anyway I am posting because I am seriously considering purchasing 2 d120s from evergrow. I have come up with a few layouts for my fixture but I am still unsure of how i should handle the white leds. From all the reading i've done, it seems that people are making a shift to neutral whites from cool whites. I would like to incorporate both whites into my led unit but as many have pointed out, evergrow does not offer 4500k bulbs (nw). What mix does everyone recommend since they dont have them. I am concerned about the appearance of the tank, don't want it to be too blue, and the health of my corals. would a mix of ww and cw work?

the first design is what I would ideally like (at least i think I would!) and the second is with cw and ww. Any thoughts and/or critiques? thanks.

I'm getting some with neutral white and Sunny hasn't said anything about not having them. She just confirmed. Are you sure?

[schulzcm]

maybe they do now but if you look back at old posts some folks say that 4500k isn't available. if you look at most builds, even the recent ones, you'll see that no one uses them in their plans. maybe they offer then now..... i hope so.

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by schulzcm

maybe they do now but if you look back at old posts some folks say that 4500k isn't available. if you look at most builds, even the recent ones, you'll see that no one uses them in their plans. maybe they offer then now..... i hope so.

Their neutral whites are 6500k, and the warm whites are 3500k. Basic 14k look requires 2:1 or 3:2 royal blue to neutral white. Mixing cool/neutral/warm becomes a bit more complicated, but Maxspect uses a 2:1:1 royal blue to Cool white to warm white mix for their new 16000k r420r fixture.

[schulzcm]

thanks! so would there cool white be 6500-7000k or 7000-7500k? i would rather do the 1:1 cw:nw. then maybe do a 2:1 blues to whites or close to that.

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by schulzcm

thanks! so would there cool white be 6500-7000k or 7000-7500k? i would rather do the 1:1 cw:nw. then maybe do a 2:1 blues to whites or close to that.

Their standard cool white is around 10-12k.

[Rjiowa]

Originally Posted by bhazard451

I haven't seen Bridgelux Neutral and Warm Whites compared to Cree's yet, but this is how I would make my d120 as of now.

30 Royal Blues
11 neutral/8 warm whites/6 violet 420nm

I haven't seen how this would look yet, but it should create around a 14k like color at 100% each channel.

If you used Cool Whites, you could add in reds and greens. I'm not fond of just cool whites and royal blues due to it creating a lack of color in a lot of coral.

24 Royal Blue 6 violet
18 Cool Whites 4 reds 3 green

Which one do you think would be equivalent to neutral white?

This is what they have listed as white LEDs:
Warm White, Pure White, Cool White(6500-7000K), Cool White(10000k-14000k)
*

[Markbb]

Hello All,

A fascinating thread for sure. I was sure I was going to wait for the maxspect razor but the positive feedback and pricing is compelling for the D120 for sure. Found this specification interesting

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...590696994.html

Questions - Do you recommend any changes here for mixed reef about 30% sps
What type of whites are being used here CW, NW, WW? I did not see it in the spec.
Are the UV LED's something that is becoming more desirable ?

Thanks for the help, I am no expert in lighting and all the changes and developments are making it more confusing then ever.

Thanks Mark

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by Markbb

Hello All,

A fascinating thread for sure. I was sure I was going to wait for the maxspect razor but the positive feedback and pricing is compelling for the D120 for sure. Found this specification interesting

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...590696994.html

Questions - Do you recommend any changes here for mixed reef about 30% sps
What type of whites are being used here CW, NW, WW? I did not see it in the spec.
Are the UV LED's something that is becoming more desirable ?

Thanks for the help, I am no expert in lighting and all the changes and developments are making it more confusing then ever.

Thanks Mark

CW 10-14k is being used unless specified otherwise.
UV Leds (under 420nm) are not desireable. Actinic leds (420nm) are.
You would be better off changing the uvs to 2 more violets, and 2 more royal blues.

The Maxspect R420r is no slouch for the money either. I am very interested in it when it starts getting reviewed. The d120s are the best value option by far though.

[Fish_Freek]

What is evergrow's standard blue led spectrum?

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by Fish_Freek

What is evergrow's standard blue led spectrum?

Their Royal Blue is around ~455nm.

[Fish_Freek]

Is royal blue their standard blue offered if not specified to them when a light is ordered?

[Dobbs1101]

I have to say after reading all these different color combo's and getting very confused, in the end The Evergrow 30b/25w I have currently have hanging/running on my 30g tank looks great. I can dial in any color combo i want. The 14k Phoenix was running is close to the same color I'm running now but the LEDS are much brighter. I have the blue at 50% and white at 40% and the growth and color is awesome. I don't know if I'll ever need to run the light at full power, but this is for a 17'' shallow tank.

What I'm saying is all the color combo's, red this, green that, etc... is almost irrelevant because you can dial in almost any color you want with the controller or knobs unless you plan on running at full power. JMO - but if UV, red and green do nothing for growth, for me, it's not worth sacrificing the extra bulbs.

I have been looking and reading for months now and the only thing I would do different is 34b / 17w / 4violet. The white on the Evergrow is really bright but 2:1 might be too blue. I added the violet for that reason and extra pop.
I think I'm going to get the following for the next 2 lights I purchase for my 120g http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...593824789.html Still not 100% sure though.

I have given up on Twilight with controller, thanks to Bhazard. Controller would be nice but on my 120g I presently run 2- T5 actinic bulbs and 2- 250w MH and they are controlled with my Apex. no slow ramp up and all the SPS corals I have in my 120g look great and I get crazy growth. (2-T5 actinics on then 45min later MH1 comes on, 30min later mh2 comes on and the just opposite at night)

I may be wrong or way off base. please let me know, I'm learning just like the rest of us.

Just my 2Cents

[Slayer311]

Originally Posted by Dobbs1101

I have to say after reading all these different color combo's and getting very confused, in the end The Evergrow 30b/25w I have currently have hanging/running on my 30g tank looks great. I can dial in any color combo i want. The 14k Phoenix was running is close to the same color I'm running now but the LEDS are much brighter. I have the blue at 50% and white at 40% and the growth and color is awesome. I don't know if I'll ever need to run the light at full power, but this is for a 17'' shallow tank.

What I'm saying is all the color combo's, red this, green that, etc... is almost irrelevant because you can dial in almost any color you want with the controller or knobs unless you plan on running at full power. JMO - but if UV, red and green do nothing for growth, for me, it's not worth sacrificing the extra bulbs.

I have been looking and reading for months now and the only thing I would do different is 34b / 17w / 4violet. The white on the Evergrow is really bright but 2:1 might be too blue. I added the violet for that reason and extra pop.
I think I'm going to get the following for the next 2 lights I purchase for my 120g http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...593824789.html Still not 100% sure though.

I have given up on Twilight with controller, thanks to Bhazard. Controller would be nice but on my 120g I presently run 2- T5 actinic bulbs and 2- 250w MH and they are controlled with my Apex. no slow ramp up and all the SPS corals I have in my 120g look great and I get crazy growth. (2-T5 actinics on then 45min later MH1 comes on, 30min later mh2 comes on and the just opposite at night)

I may be wrong or way off base. please let me know, I'm learning just like the rest of us.

Just my 2Cents

I have a slight issue with your response in that you have never tried the red or green to see what benefit you will get from it. I don't believe I have seen anyone claim to have improved growth from adding just red or green, but rather improved color spectrum. And really, if you are only running your lights at 50%, what would it hurt to replace a few blues or whites with red / green / cyan / violet and maybe drive them at 55% power instead? You would gain a fuller spectrum and likely your reds would pop more, your green would pop more, and all your corals would florescence more with the addition of the violet. Just my 2 cents. No one is trying to confuse things, rather just provide our corals with the fullest most realistic spectrum possible. I aim to replace my t5's in which I run 5 different color bulbs myself and love my coloration and will be providing every color LED I can.

[Dobbs1101]

That's the exact response I was looking for. I really don't know what I'm talking about and your probably right. It's just that I'm very confused, itching to pull the trigger, and what you said makes perfect sense.. Hey, I'm not trying to steer anyone the wrong way at all. Please don't take me the wrong way.

After reading your response your right, if I'm only running the light at 50% it does make sense to add a few red/green and see if it makes a difference. I guess there's no real set in stone perfect ratio of colors.

The only point I was making from my observation is that you have many options with any of these light by just changing the % of white and blue knobs/controller. Be it 20k or 10k. Do allot of people run these lights at 100%?? That's a good question I would like to know.

hmm.. now I'm going to rethink what to do. I don't really have any idea what the reds or greens might provide. You know, it might be beneficial to add the red/green for pop and if I don't like them I could always switch them out.

I'll just go back to lurking... Sorry for any thing I said wrong...I didn't mean to throw a wrench into the very active conversation...I've learned allot but obviously not enough yet ...lol

[nynick]

Don't think anyone has learned enough yet about LEDs, we should all throw stuff out there even if it might be wrong. Good to challenge conventions especially on something that is developing this fast.

Chances are that 3 years from now we will revisit this thread for a good laugh but right now it is some very good insight. Hard to beat first hand experience and observations from 100+ users. I would be very surprised if people from all top of the line LED companies aren't following this thread.

Besides, show me someone who has learned enough and I will show you a moron.

[ali1]

Originally Posted by Dobbs1101

I have to say after reading all these different color combo's and getting very confused, in the end The Evergrow 30b/25w I have currently have hanging/running on my 30g tank looks great. I can dial in any color combo i want. The 14k Phoenix was running is close to the same color I'm running now but the LEDS are much brighter. I have the blue at 50% and white at 40% and the growth and color is awesome. I don't know if I'll ever need to run the light at full power, but this is for a 17'' shallow tank.

What I'm saying is all the color combo's, red this, green that, etc... is almost irrelevant because you can dial in almost any color you want with the controller or knobs unless you plan on running at full power. JMO - but if UV, red and green do nothing for growth, for me, it's not worth sacrificing the extra bulbs.

I have been looking and reading for months now and the only thing I would do different is 34b / 17w / 4violet. The white on the Evergrow is really bright but 2:1 might be too blue. I added the violet for that reason and extra pop.
I think I'm going to get the following for the next 2 lights I purchase for my 120g http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...593824789.html Still not 100% sure though.

I have given up on Twilight with controller, thanks to Bhazard. Controller would be nice but on my 120g I presently run 2- T5 actinic bulbs and 2- 250w MH and they are controlled with my Apex. no slow ramp up and all the SPS corals I have in my 120g look great and I get crazy growth. (2-T5 actinics on then 45min later MH1 comes on, 30min later mh2 comes on and the just opposite at night)

I may be wrong or way off base. please let me know, I'm learning just like the rest of us.

Just my 2Cents

Can you show pics of your setup. I'm also leaning towards the evergrow d120, but now deciding if I should change the color layout or the default layout will suffice.

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by ali1

Can you show pics of your setup. I'm also leaning towards the evergrow d120, but now deciding if I should change the color layout or the default layout will suffice.

You'll tire of the default layout within a few months. It just doesn't provide the same color pop that a mixture of multiple color whites and violets would.

Red and Green is still subjective. Since they cannot be controlled individually on these (yet) and are tied to a blue or white channel, you cant really dial them in.

I have reds, greens, cyans, cool blues, and violets on a separate string in my DIY Nova, and they don't really change the overall color of the tank much when turned on/off or when I play around with the intensity (30w of colors vs 150w of whites and blues). The tank looks like a christmas tree when its the only channel on though.

[Dobbs1101]

Here's a picture of my 30g with D120. Not sure if it was on 100% both blue or white. I can snap another tonight.



Here is my 120g with 250w MH and 2 Atinic t5. Older pictures but I'll snap some new ones tonight. these were taken right after I built the wall unit around the tank.

[noneedforleads]

I just purchased the D120's replacing a current outer orbit (metal halide and T5) fixture. So far so good. Ill let you guys know how it works out!

[225reef]

I read this whole thread today it took a little over 10 hours ( I have alot of spare time lol ) so what i got out of this is I need at least 3 or 4 fixtures with 60 degree optics to get the punch to the bottom of a 30 in deep tank. I am just not 100% sure which fixture i want to go with.

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by 225reef

I read this whole thread today it took a little over 10 hours ( I have alot of spare time lol ) so what i got out of this is I need at least 3 or 4 fixtures with 60 degree optics to get the punch to the bottom of a 30 in deep tank. I am just not 100% sure which fixture i want to go with.

How big is the tank? What color look are you going for? Is it in a canopy or open water?

[225reef]

Originally Posted by bhazard451

How big is the tank? What color look are you going for? Is it in a canopy or open water?

The tank is 72 L x 24 W x 30 T, I have a canopy on the tank. I am looking for aleast 14k or little bluer.

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by 225reef

The tank is 72 L x 24 W x 30 T, I have a canopy on the tank. I am looking for aleast 14k or little bluer.

You might not need optics inside a canopy. If you do get them, get 90 degree optics.. as the spread of a 60 is very narrow unless you hang it 10" above the water or more.

2:1 royal blue with an even mixture of cw:nw:ww and 4 or 6 violet 420nm leds can give a great 14k+ look.

[225reef]

so should i just go with the d120

[Hoity]

Originally Posted by bhazard451

You might not need optics inside a canopy. If you do get them, get 90 degree optics.. as the spread of a 60 is very narrow unless you hang it 10" above the water or more.

2:1 royal blue with an even mixture of cw:nw:ww and 4 or 6 violet 420nm leds can give a great 14k+ look.

I have just received my 4 Twilight lights to hang over my 9ft tank. I have 20k and 14k whites and 3 different blues with a couple of reds and green and one uv.

Initial observation after putting two up alongside my 250w MH is the following:
1. Dimming feature is pretty cool, you can transition from one level to the next seamlessly.
2. The colour is very white compared to the MH ( MH lamp is 5yrs old)
3. With 60 degree optics and the light running across the tank 2'6" wide i have the light at approx 20" above the tank to get some decent spread. May have to remove them.
4. The shimmer in the tank is fantastic, although after the MH it looks a little artificial, this maybe due to the spread, I seem to have more shadows with LED than with MH, less spill of light outside the tank which supports the narrow beam theory. I still need to sort through the different levels/intensities on the different channels etc.

Will post some more details with pictures when i get all 4 up and working.
Cheers