The Reef Central Corner Club Thread - Page 149

myram · 11/27/2015, 07:19 AM

I got rid of my RBTA and will never own another either. They just move around and sting and kill corals. While they are very beautiful to look at, they are not in my tank.

SaltyDoug · 12/03/2015, 04:06 PM

So I just got my gyre 150 in and after playing with it for a few minutes all I can say is WOW. I think it may have been overkill to get the 150 for my 92. I'm running it on the lowest setting and its moving some serious volume. I don't see myself running it past the 1st or 2nd speed.
I'll have to see how my fish adapt to it they are a bit skiddish after i tested it full blast for just a second hah.

myram · 12/07/2015, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SaltyDoug

So I just got my gyre 150 in and after playing with it for a few minutes all I can say is WOW. I think it may have been overkill to get the 150 for my 92. I'm running it on the lowest setting and its moving some serious volume. I don't see myself running it past the 1st or 2nd speed.
I'll have to see how my fish adapt to it they are a bit skiddish after i tested it full blast for just a second hah.

What placement did you go with?

Cameron2324 · 01/30/2016, 02:38 AM

I would like to be apart of this group I Just bought a 54g Corner with sump picking it up and this weekend set up will be done after I move in may. I am currently running a 55g with 40g sump. I went with the corner tank due to space restrictions in the house we are moving to. I felt that the smaller footprint would allow me to keep my hobby and keep the wife from getting too annoyed. This is my first post on this forum so to introduce my self I am Cameron been in the hobby for almost 20 years I kept African cichlids from age 8 to 25 and started to get into salt 3 years ago started with a 10g Bio cube ( I know the small water volume is not good for a marine beginner but it did teach me some good lessons) now I have the 55g standard rectangle with sump and will be moving to the corner tank in may. I have noticed that there seem to be a lot of flow problems with these creating "sand storms" any help with the positioning the pumps would be helpful. as far as filtration on the tank will be everything transferred from my current tank except the sump which will be a 30g the rest of the equipment is below.

30g sump
550GPH return pump
2 400 GPH hydor powerheads
Fluval 110 Canister filter rated up to 75 Gallons
Aquatop MR-20 Multimedia reactor
9W UV sterilizer
Eshopps PSK 75 Protein Skimmer
2 bulb T5 ballast
Aquatic life edge LED ( not for coral I like the programmable moon lights)

Couple questions I have about the corner tanks

My total flow between all of the Pumps will be around 1500 I plan on having the power heads toward each other to avoid a whirlpool but am trying to avoid the top skimming that I see some people have run into. Also has anyone Tinkered with wave makers in a corner tank?

What is everyone's thoughts on painting the sides if the tank will be along a wall on each side? I cant stand the LFS back grounds so I am either going with paint or just leaving the glass.

If paint is the option what does everyone use I have always used the premade LFS backgrounds (even though I cant stand them)

Looking forward to being apart of the community

Cameron

Cameron2324 · 01/30/2016, 04:01 PM

bump

polaravic · 01/30/2016, 09:32 PM

Hi Everybody,

After maintaining a 100 gal bowfront corner tank for 8 years, I will be upgrading to a 6 ft rectangle.

However, I will try and download some pictures of my rockwork:

http://web1.reefcentral.com/forums/a...76d=1454211076

I hope this works - first time

polaravic

Cameron2324 · 01/31/2016, 11:33 AM

Polar the tank looks great! I like the rockscape! how are you dealing with flow for the tank? Is it run off of a sump if so how big of a sump can you fit underneath the tank?

polaravic · 01/31/2016, 10:49 PM

Flow is difficult. I have two original Maxijet 1200's with a Reeflow adapter which increases and disperses the flow.

I attach them with the rubber suction cups (check weekly and press against the glass to make sure they stay!) They are on the two sides facing almost straight up and at the back of the tank. You can hardly see them.

There is more than enough flow BUT it doesn't reach all of the rock. I swish manually every week to get rid of sediment.

Yes, I do have a 20 gal tall sump off to the side in the cabinet with a Vertex Omega 130 Protein Skimmer, approx 3 ltrs of Hydroton for nitrate reduction (work really well) in a filter bag underneath the return hose. The bag is so full of Hydroton that is sits up by itself in the sump - very convenient.

That all being said, If I wasn't breaking down the tank, I would completely rearrange all the rock:

put it all in the middle like an island with lots of bridges and tunnels.

One Maxi at the back and one Max at the front on opposite sides to disperse/radomize the flow for better circulation.

first try have the pumps flow opposite each other and then in the same direction to circle around the tank.

Maximum flow to all the crevices in the rock is absolutely critical to keep the nitrates from building up on the rocks.

I have learned all this the hard way. It took me a year to get rid of the the red algae on the rocks - used Instant Ocean Nitrate Reducer. It worked to 80% reduction. Then added Hydroton - Wow! I now only clean the glass once a week or every other week and don't need the IO Reducer any more.

A long reply I know but this tank was very difficult to maintain. Now that I have figured it all out, I end up getting rid of it.

But, my new tank is 150 gal with 75 gal refugium and a 50 gal sump in the basement. I can't wait - my dream tank!

polaravic

Cameron2324 · 02/01/2016, 02:21 AM

Nice! congrats on the new tank you should put your build up on here I would love to follow it. I am not starting my 54G corner until may its waiting for me in Michigan I have a 150G rectangle that was my old freshwater tank that I cant put in the house except the basement due to space I cant even put the 55g I currently have in there. My thought is to run my plumbing through the floor and making a fish room in the basement and having my 150 as the sump just for more volume. but then again I have to get the wife to sign off on me having an entire part of the basement and drilling in the floor

.

I may take your idea to put everything in the middle I think I would help to keep the glass clean as well. I have heard that the corner tanks are a completely different animal to care for my personal main concern is the flow issues it presents.

Thank you for the info cant wait to see the new build.

jjadams · 02/13/2016, 11:14 PM

Hello all. I've had a 54 RR corner for 5 years now. Tore it down for a room renovation in the summer. Just not getting into the spirt of a rebuild. I have some concerns about the stand. There seems to be some slop/play in it that may have always been there, but I've never noticed until now. The tank is off the stand btw. I'm hesitant to get it running until I resolve this in some way. Have any of you ever noticed this with yours? It's the black pine stand that most tanks are sold with. Thanks!

Nic33 · 02/29/2016, 05:03 PM

I am completely new to the hobby. My son wants a saltwater tank so we negotiated his purchasing a small freshwater tank on his own. If he can maintain it, maybe Santa Claus will bring him a saltwater tank. So I started investigating saltwater tanks and fell down the rabbit hole. I am officially obsessed. I also realize I have a TON of work to do to be ready by Christmas.

It will be our first real tank so the only space I could negotiate is a corner. I am looking at the 92g corner unit. A few questions to get me started that are specific to corner units:

1. I only have the space in the cabinet to work with. What is a must have and what can go? Do I have a larger sump/refugium and skip some of the other extras? I will probably end up making a custom sump/refugium so need to know what I absolutely must have down there so I can use the rest of the space for that.

2. If I build a stand that has a little more vertical space inside, can I feel free to increase the volume of my sump by going vertical?

3. Lighting/temperature control: I live coastal southern California and have no AC. In the summers it can be in the 80's during the day, but cools off at night. We usually have 1 week a year of 90's. If I went with LED lights, and fans, could I avoid a chiller? I realize lighting is going to be a pain but I am in it for the long haul and our electricity is insanely expensive so don't mind the upfront cost of LED. We actually ran LED through the whole house and went 100% solar as it makes financial sense.

Thanks for your help. I am just starting out and want to get an idea of what equipment I should start researching. I've started reading this entire thread, but it is A LOT to get through.

KeithP · 03/01/2016, 12:14 AM

1. necessities: heater, fan, skimmer or algae scrubber, auto topoff w/ reservoir, rodi, return pump, thermometer, light, power strip, algae cleaner, powerhead, rock, separate quarantine setup.
Nice to have: calcium (kalk reactor or 3 part doser or calcium reactor) auto feeder, controller, refugium, carbon reactor, gfo reactor, bio pellet reactor, filter sock, flood sensor, lots more.
Probably not needed: ozone, uv ,

KeithP · 03/01/2016, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nic33

I am completely new to the hobby. My son wants a saltwater tank so we negotiated his purchasing a small freshwater tank on his own. If he can maintain it, maybe Santa Claus will bring him a saltwater tank. So I started investigating saltwater tanks and fell down the rabbit hole. I am officially obsessed. I also realize I have a TON of work to do to be ready by Christmas.

It will be our first real tank so the only space I could negotiate is a corner. I am looking at the 92g corner unit. A few questions to get me started that are specific to corner units:

1. I only have the space in the cabinet to work with. What is a must have and what can go? Do I have a larger sump/refugium and skip some of the other extras? I will probably end up making a custom sump/refugium so need to know what I absolutely must have down there so I can use the rest of the space for that.

2. If I build a stand that has a little more vertical space inside, can I feel free to increase the volume of my sump by going vertical?

3. Lighting/temperature control: I live coastal southern California and have no AC. In the summers it can be in the 80's during the day, but cools off at night. We usually have 1 week a year of 90's. If I went with LED lights, and fans, could I avoid a chiller? I realize lighting is going to be a pain but I am in it for the long haul and our electricity is insanely expensive so don't mind the upfront cost of LED. We actually ran LED through the whole house and went 100% solar as it makes financial sense.

Thanks for your help. I am just starting out and want to get an idea of what equipment I should start researching. I've started reading this entire thread, but it is A LOT to get through.

2. Yes.

3. Chiller is probably not required but hard to say for sure. Will the tank get sun? Is it in the more temperature stable part of the house? A controller can shut off lights and turn on fans when it is too hot. You can keep the tank cooler like 77 so it can gain a few degrees without killing things. You can insulate the back. A waterfall algae scrubber with a fan can probably survive 90 degree temps easily but you will need a good size auto top off reservoir. A fan for venting the hood would help too.

Nic33 · 03/01/2016, 01:03 PM

Thanks Keith.

I will run the RODI from the kitchen, outside the house and down to a storage reservoir just on the other side of the exterior wall from the tank. I plan to have a separate QT that I only pull together when needed. Maybe keep a filter w/floss just sitting in my sump? I'll do a sump/refugium with skimmer, LR, algae, etc. If I want to try out an algae scrubber, I assume I could just pull out the skimmer and there would be enough room in the sump to build it. I could always make the refugium smaller.

I will leave enough space for a chiller and/or one or two of your other "nice to haves". My location is on the south side of the house, next to some French Doors, but doesn't get any direct light due to exterior shading. It is fairly temperature stable (as much as you can be without AC) and I can always use a fan in the room to circulate air. I plan to install a fan in the cabinet and at least one fan in the hood. I still have no clue how I am going to do the lighting/canopy etc. If I can make it through one summer without a chiller, great. I will just use that reserved space for something else.

Does anyone know of people who place any equipment outside? I could build a cabinet outside by my water storage and pass everything through a conduit in the wall. Just a thought.

KeithP · 03/01/2016, 05:59 PM

I think it is common to have some equipment in an adjacent cabinet or an adjacent room. Chillers are big and you wouldn' t have much space for other things. If you have a canopy, you might put it above but it will be more efficient low.

My list is certainly not all inclusive and some will debate what is required. If you have a small number of smaller fish and only hardy soft corals, you could omit the sump and a lot of expensive equipment.

Nic33 · 03/25/2016, 12:27 PM

Just finished reading through all 186 pages. That was certainly a feat. I had to skim some of it so bear with me if I repeat things that have already been explained.

I picked up a 92 bowfront off of craigslist with stand and sump for $400. Rear corner overflow with Durso and return line. The tank and stand could use some cleaning and paint. That is the first order, then I am going to attempt to build and tray to line the entire inside of the stand - maybe 2 inches tall. It will be in a exterior corner of the house so I will plumb a drain that goes outside in case of larger mishap.

My goal is a mixed reef with minimal rockwork that leaves plenty of room for lots of fish.

Here is my plan thus far with questions at the end.

Current Sump - 15 gallon - rip out 7" sock holder and put in 4". add baffles to separate skimmer from small refugium and refugium from return. Bubble trap. After I am up and running for a year and know what I am doing better, I might make a custom sump for more volume.

Skimmer - I like the look of less rock and there is only so much I can fit in my sump so should I oversize the skimmer a bit. Get something rated for heavy load 150 gallon ish? Can your skimmer be too big?

Return Pump - the overflow is rated only to 600gph so I am thinking Jebao DCT-4000 pump. That will give me up to 2 meters of head pressure and still get 600 gph.

Power heads - I am thinking 2 Jebao WP-25. Yes, I know that is a lot of Chinese but the reliability isn't that bad and at the price I can buy backups of everything ans still be ahead of the game.

Return - I know some people use a sea swirl. It is currently mounted with the 2 fan shaped flex lines. With the WP's, I am hoping it isn't necessary.

ATO - I will put a small reservoir outside the house and use the Auto Aqua or something similar.

Water Changes - automatic daily water changes with water reservoir outside the house. I'm not sure if I should just go two of the Tom Aquatics auto lifter pumps or a DOS. Any thoughts? I would control with a reef control system.

Temperature control - 2-250w heaters. We have no AC but live in coastal CA so summer temps rarely get above the mid 80's. I will go ahead and put in a couple fans in the canopy.

Control System - This is where I am going to spend a bit of money. I have two young kids so know I need to try and make everything as easy as possible to start with. I will get an Apex with all the modules I need to do the following:
1) Backup the ATO
2) Control Automatic water changes
3) Control powerheads, return pump and skimmer. For feedings, dial back flow and turn off skimmer.
4) Control lighting
5) shut down some equipment in case of power failure and shift to UPS
5) Shut down all appiicable equipment and notify me in case of deviation in pH, water level, temp, etc.

That is a lot, and a lot of work. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

KeithP · 03/25/2016, 03:13 PM

Most fish like rocks. Having less rock does not mean less fish. When you dive or snorkel in the ocean the fish mostly stay where the rock is. Limiting rock does make the tank look nice and show off the fish you have more since they can't hide so do whatever makes you happy.

Since your tank only has 2 pipes in the overflow, you should consider a Herbie style overflow and/or hook up a level sensor as backup to avoid overflows.

I am no skimmer expert but I believe it has to be WAY oversized to actually cause a problem but it will use more energy for no added benefit beyond a certain point. Get one that experienced reefers with a similar size tank like. You could also consider an algae scrubber or algae reactor instead. When made properly and maintained, they are quite effective.

600 gph is not much flow. I think you will be better off with one return nozzle. You can split it later if you think it is blasting too much water in one place. I put in multiple nozzles with valves but ended up closing the valve so only one runs.

DOS is more accurate but more expensive. Cheaper pumps can work but you will need to be more careful to monitor salinity which will change over time. Wish I could speak from experience, I have the DOS but my baby has occupied too much time so it is not connected to the mixing tank or drain yet.

Apex is really nice for your listed desires. ORP and salinity are interesting but not very useful for me. A pH probe in my Kalkreactor is useful and temperature is essential.

You didn't mention lighting. Pick a good one if the tank didn't come with it. I am running 2 Radions placed near the front aimed at an angle toward the back and still think I would be better off adding a T5 strip to fill in the shadows a little. The radions are overkill and would have better coverage as 3- one cluster lights instead of two double cluster lights.

Good luck

KeithP · 03/25/2016, 10:31 PM

uploadfromtaptalk1458965528629.jpg
This is my 92. Yes that is a working porthole.

uploadfromtaptalk1458965730973.jpg
It sits on heavy duty stage casters although they are rated to carry 50% more than the tank weight, the compress the floor grain so I wish I had used another caster assembly.

uploadfromtaptalk1458965946977.jpg
Looks cool open. 40 breeder sump on lower right. 13 gal tank goes behind the porthole. RODI and salt mixer on the lower left. There is space for a light box on the right but the curved glass makes this less visible. The upper left is net and scraper and baster storage.

uploadfromtaptalk1458966019030.jpg
The casters allow access to hidden electrical and miscellaneous stuff. The skimmer is also accessed from the back. Since the skimmer is not under the tank, it leaves height to add a swabbie and for easier maintenance.

uploadfromtaptalk1458966131306.jpg
Food and test equipment drawers

I have a one year old and that is delaying a number of improvements I have planned.

Nic33 · 03/25/2016, 10:46 PM

Forgot the lighting. Wanted to go led so was thinking about either picking up some used AI/radions or going the Chinese black box route. I was thinking if I went the black box route I could get 3 so I would have good coverage but just run them at low power.

Your cabinet is amazing. I like the way your canopy opens. I was trying to figure out the best way to rig that. What is you canopy height? If I went with 3 fixtures I may have to mount them a little higher.

Nic33 · 03/25/2016, 10:50 PM

Did you extend your cabinet out behind the tank? How did you fit 53 gallons down there? I love the integrated storage.

For skimmer I am now thinking aquamaxx q2. Small footprint for the rated ability and good quality from what I can see.

I have a 3 and 1 year old so I feel your pain. Doing all of this late night does not make for the best work.

Nic33 · 03/25/2016, 10:54 PM

Oh and I also have hardwoods so am a little worried. If you didn't have to move your tank for access would you still go the casters route. I suppose it makes it easier to clean spills as you don't have to worry about water that creeps under it.

I will be monitoring salinity that way if the is a big deviation I can shut down the ato in case that is the cause. I can not afford another flood. We had one caused by a washer two years ago, hence all new hard woods throughout the house.

KeithP · 03/26/2016, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nic33

Forgot the lighting. Wanted to go led so was thinking about either picking up some used AI/radions or going the Chinese black box route. I was thinking if I went the black box route I could get 3 so I would have good coverage but just run them at low power.

Your cabinet is amazing. I like the way your canopy opens. I was trying to figure out the best way to rig that. What is you canopy height? If I went with 3 fixtures I may have to mount them a little higher.

My canopy is a bout 6'3" I think. With 3 lights, coverage would be good at almost any height. Mine are on slides so I can move them for access. Kessils would also be an excellent choice. With PG&E electric prices, efficient lights pay for themselves.

KeithP · 03/26/2016, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nic33

Did you extend your cabinet out behind the tank? How did you fit 53 gallons down there? I love the integrated storage.

For skimmer I am now thinking aquamaxx q2. Small footprint for the rated ability and good quality from what I can see.

I have a 3 and 1 year old so I feel your pain. Doing all of this late night does not make for the best work.

I actually have 88 gal of tanks below although they will never hold that much water. There is a 20 for RODI storage, and 15 for salt mix. Yes the corner the tank sits in had extra space so I added about 4" on one side and 12" on the other.

I am still trying to tune my Vertex skimmer which is my first. Here it is on a stand I made. I have since added an Avast Swabbie but should have spent the time adjusting the skimmer. I have a nutrient problem and just added a chaeto sandwich to try and keep the chaleto growing instead of floating and dieing

uploadfromtaptalk1458979007964.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1458979356163.jpg

KeithP · 03/26/2016, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nic33

Oh and I also have hardwoods so am a little worried. If you didn't have to move your tank for access would you still go the casters route. I suppose it makes it easier to clean spills as you don't have to worry about water that creeps under it.

I will be monitoring salinity that way if the is a big deviation I can shut down the ato in case that is the cause. I can not afford another flood. We had one caused by a washer two years ago, hence all new hard woods throughout the house.

The casters I bought were quite expensive. The last big tank I had was 55 gallons and rolled off its stand crushing two others during the Loma Prieta earthquake. I moved out of my room for a month while it dried, was inspected and recarpeted. These 92s are much wider and more stable if you have a good stand so I was probably over reacting with the casters. The access in back was a natural result of adding casters, not the other way around, although it has allowed me to pack a lot more in without having a fish room. I spent a lot of time finding ways to maximize space.

I have had several spills which made the flooring swell but it seems to dry out back to the way it was. Having casters does make mopping up easier and more complete. My spills were all RODI or its waste line which I tried to catch in a bucket in the beginning because of the drought. The few saltwater drips have not been a problem at all. You should probably assume the floor will need to be refinished when the tank is moved some day.

My RODI is behind the fridge on the other side of the wall from the tank. It is plumbed through the wall and I have a sewer connection for the tank too.

uploadfromtaptalk1458980935847.jpg

Nic33 · 03/26/2016, 08:00 AM

If I used both pipes in the overflow for the herbie I would have to run an external return over the top. If I lived anywhere else I wouldn't worry. But with it being so close to the wall in the case of an earthquake I am afraid the line would get broken and I would be pumping water onto the floor. Is that a crazy concern? I was hoping with a stable stand I could make it through a quake without breaking the entire tank but I would see that return as a weak spot.

I'm going to steal a lot from your design! Love the sliding rails for the lights. It's going to take me some time to fully digest all the info you have given me.

11/27/2015, 07:19 AM	#3701
myram #347, 19 years Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Biddeford, ME Posts: 1,714	I got rid of my RBTA and will never own another either. They just move around and sting and kill corals. While they are very beautiful to look at, they are not in my tank.

12/03/2015, 04:06 PM	#3702
SaltyDoug Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 140	So I just got my gyre 150 in and after playing with it for a few minutes all I can say is WOW. I think it may have been overkill to get the 150 for my 92. I'm running it on the lowest setting and its moving some serious volume. I don't see myself running it past the 1st or 2nd speed. I'll have to see how my fish adapt to it they are a bit skiddish after i tested it full blast for just a second hah.

01/30/2016, 02:38 AM	#3704
Cameron2324 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 29	I would like to be apart of this group I Just bought a 54g Corner with sump picking it up and this weekend set up will be done after I move in may. I am currently running a 55g with 40g sump. I went with the corner tank due to space restrictions in the house we are moving to. I felt that the smaller footprint would allow me to keep my hobby and keep the wife from getting too annoyed. This is my first post on this forum so to introduce my self I am Cameron been in the hobby for almost 20 years I kept African cichlids from age 8 to 25 and started to get into salt 3 years ago started with a 10g Bio cube ( I know the small water volume is not good for a marine beginner but it did teach me some good lessons) now I have the 55g standard rectangle with sump and will be moving to the corner tank in may. I have noticed that there seem to be a lot of flow problems with these creating "sand storms" any help with the positioning the pumps would be helpful. as far as filtration on the tank will be everything transferred from my current tank except the sump which will be a 30g the rest of the equipment is below. 30g sump 550GPH return pump 2 400 GPH hydor powerheads Fluval 110 Canister filter rated up to 75 Gallons Aquatop MR-20 Multimedia reactor 9W UV sterilizer Eshopps PSK 75 Protein Skimmer 2 bulb T5 ballast Aquatic life edge LED ( not for coral I like the programmable moon lights) Couple questions I have about the corner tanks My total flow between all of the Pumps will be around 1500 I plan on having the power heads toward each other to avoid a whirlpool but am trying to avoid the top skimming that I see some people have run into. Also has anyone Tinkered with wave makers in a corner tank? What is everyone's thoughts on painting the sides if the tank will be along a wall on each side? I cant stand the LFS back grounds so I am either going with paint or just leaving the glass. If paint is the option what does everyone use I have always used the premade LFS backgrounds (even though I cant stand them) Looking forward to being apart of the community Cameron

01/30/2016, 04:01 PM	#3705
Cameron2324 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 29	bump

01/31/2016, 11:33 AM	#3707
Cameron2324 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 29	Polar the tank looks great! I like the rockscape! how are you dealing with flow for the tank? Is it run off of a sump if so how big of a sump can you fit underneath the tank?

01/31/2016, 10:49 PM	#3708
polaravic Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada Posts: 74	Flow is difficult. I have two original Maxijet 1200's with a Reeflow adapter which increases and disperses the flow. I attach them with the rubber suction cups (check weekly and press against the glass to make sure they stay!) They are on the two sides facing almost straight up and at the back of the tank. You can hardly see them. There is more than enough flow BUT it doesn't reach all of the rock. I swish manually every week to get rid of sediment. Yes, I do have a 20 gal tall sump off to the side in the cabinet with a Vertex Omega 130 Protein Skimmer, approx 3 ltrs of Hydroton for nitrate reduction (work really well) in a filter bag underneath the return hose. The bag is so full of Hydroton that is sits up by itself in the sump - very convenient. That all being said, If I wasn't breaking down the tank, I would completely rearrange all the rock: put it all in the middle like an island with lots of bridges and tunnels. One Maxi at the back and one Max at the front on opposite sides to disperse/radomize the flow for better circulation. first try have the pumps flow opposite each other and then in the same direction to circle around the tank. Maximum flow to all the crevices in the rock is absolutely critical to keep the nitrates from building up on the rocks. I have learned all this the hard way. It took me a year to get rid of the the red algae on the rocks - used Instant Ocean Nitrate Reducer. It worked to 80% reduction. Then added Hydroton - Wow! I now only clean the glass once a week or every other week and don't need the IO Reducer any more. A long reply I know but this tank was very difficult to maintain. Now that I have figured it all out, I end up getting rid of it. But, my new tank is 150 gal with 75 gal refugium and a 50 gal sump in the basement. I can't wait - my dream tank! polaravic

02/01/2016, 02:21 AM	#3709
Cameron2324 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 29	Nice! congrats on the new tank you should put your build up on here I would love to follow it. I am not starting my 54G corner until may its waiting for me in Michigan I have a 150G rectangle that was my old freshwater tank that I cant put in the house except the basement due to space I cant even put the 55g I currently have in there. My thought is to run my plumbing through the floor and making a fish room in the basement and having my 150 as the sump just for more volume. but then again I have to get the wife to sign off on me having an entire part of the basement and drilling in the floor . I may take your idea to put everything in the middle I think I would help to keep the glass clean as well. I have heard that the corner tanks are a completely different animal to care for my personal main concern is the flow issues it presents. Thank you for the info cant wait to see the new build.

02/13/2016, 11:14 PM	#3710
jjadams Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 9	Hello all. I've had a 54 RR corner for 5 years now. Tore it down for a room renovation in the summer. Just not getting into the spirt of a rebuild. I have some concerns about the stand. There seems to be some slop/play in it that may have always been there, but I've never noticed until now. The tank is off the stand btw. I'm hesitant to get it running until I resolve this in some way. Have any of you ever noticed this with yours? It's the black pine stand that most tanks are sold with. Thanks!

02/29/2016, 05:03 PM	#3711
Nic33 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 24	I am completely new to the hobby. My son wants a saltwater tank so we negotiated his purchasing a small freshwater tank on his own. If he can maintain it, maybe Santa Claus will bring him a saltwater tank. So I started investigating saltwater tanks and fell down the rabbit hole. I am officially obsessed. I also realize I have a TON of work to do to be ready by Christmas. It will be our first real tank so the only space I could negotiate is a corner. I am looking at the 92g corner unit. A few questions to get me started that are specific to corner units: 1. I only have the space in the cabinet to work with. What is a must have and what can go? Do I have a larger sump/refugium and skip some of the other extras? I will probably end up making a custom sump/refugium so need to know what I absolutely must have down there so I can use the rest of the space for that. 2. If I build a stand that has a little more vertical space inside, can I feel free to increase the volume of my sump by going vertical? 3. Lighting/temperature control: I live coastal southern California and have no AC. In the summers it can be in the 80's during the day, but cools off at night. We usually have 1 week a year of 90's. If I went with LED lights, and fans, could I avoid a chiller? I realize lighting is going to be a pain but I am in it for the long haul and our electricity is insanely expensive so don't mind the upfront cost of LED. We actually ran LED through the whole house and went 100% solar as it makes financial sense. Thanks for your help. I am just starting out and want to get an idea of what equipment I should start researching. I've started reading this entire thread, but it is A LOT to get through.

03/01/2016, 12:14 AM	#3712
KeithP Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Walnut Creek, near San Francisco Posts: 39	1. necessities: heater, fan, skimmer or algae scrubber, auto topoff w/ reservoir, rodi, return pump, thermometer, light, power strip, algae cleaner, powerhead, rock, separate quarantine setup. Nice to have: calcium (kalk reactor or 3 part doser or calcium reactor) auto feeder, controller, refugium, carbon reactor, gfo reactor, bio pellet reactor, filter sock, flood sensor, lots more. Probably not needed: ozone, uv ,

03/01/2016, 01:03 PM	#3714
Nic33 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 24	Thanks Keith. I will run the RODI from the kitchen, outside the house and down to a storage reservoir just on the other side of the exterior wall from the tank. I plan to have a separate QT that I only pull together when needed. Maybe keep a filter w/floss just sitting in my sump? I'll do a sump/refugium with skimmer, LR, algae, etc. If I want to try out an algae scrubber, I assume I could just pull out the skimmer and there would be enough room in the sump to build it. I could always make the refugium smaller. I will leave enough space for a chiller and/or one or two of your other "nice to haves". My location is on the south side of the house, next to some French Doors, but doesn't get any direct light due to exterior shading. It is fairly temperature stable (as much as you can be without AC) and I can always use a fan in the room to circulate air. I plan to install a fan in the cabinet and at least one fan in the hood. I still have no clue how I am going to do the lighting/canopy etc. If I can make it through one summer without a chiller, great. I will just use that reserved space for something else. Does anyone know of people who place any equipment outside? I could build a cabinet outside by my water storage and pass everything through a conduit in the wall. Just a thought.

03/01/2016, 05:59 PM	#3715
KeithP Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Walnut Creek, near San Francisco Posts: 39	I think it is common to have some equipment in an adjacent cabinet or an adjacent room. Chillers are big and you wouldn' t have much space for other things. If you have a canopy, you might put it above but it will be more efficient low. My list is certainly not all inclusive and some will debate what is required. If you have a small number of smaller fish and only hardy soft corals, you could omit the sump and a lot of expensive equipment.

03/25/2016, 12:27 PM	#3716
Nic33 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 24	Just finished reading through all 186 pages. That was certainly a feat. I had to skim some of it so bear with me if I repeat things that have already been explained. I picked up a 92 bowfront off of craigslist with stand and sump for $400. Rear corner overflow with Durso and return line. The tank and stand could use some cleaning and paint. That is the first order, then I am going to attempt to build and tray to line the entire inside of the stand - maybe 2 inches tall. It will be in a exterior corner of the house so I will plumb a drain that goes outside in case of larger mishap. My goal is a mixed reef with minimal rockwork that leaves plenty of room for lots of fish. Here is my plan thus far with questions at the end. Current Sump - 15 gallon - rip out 7" sock holder and put in 4". add baffles to separate skimmer from small refugium and refugium from return. Bubble trap. After I am up and running for a year and know what I am doing better, I might make a custom sump for more volume. Skimmer - I like the look of less rock and there is only so much I can fit in my sump so should I oversize the skimmer a bit. Get something rated for heavy load 150 gallon ish? Can your skimmer be too big? Return Pump - the overflow is rated only to 600gph so I am thinking Jebao DCT-4000 pump. That will give me up to 2 meters of head pressure and still get 600 gph. Power heads - I am thinking 2 Jebao WP-25. Yes, I know that is a lot of Chinese but the reliability isn't that bad and at the price I can buy backups of everything ans still be ahead of the game. Return - I know some people use a sea swirl. It is currently mounted with the 2 fan shaped flex lines. With the WP's, I am hoping it isn't necessary. ATO - I will put a small reservoir outside the house and use the Auto Aqua or something similar. Water Changes - automatic daily water changes with water reservoir outside the house. I'm not sure if I should just go two of the Tom Aquatics auto lifter pumps or a DOS. Any thoughts? I would control with a reef control system. Temperature control - 2-250w heaters. We have no AC but live in coastal CA so summer temps rarely get above the mid 80's. I will go ahead and put in a couple fans in the canopy. Control System - This is where I am going to spend a bit of money. I have two young kids so know I need to try and make everything as easy as possible to start with. I will get an Apex with all the modules I need to do the following: 1) Backup the ATO 2) Control Automatic water changes 3) Control powerheads, return pump and skimmer. For feedings, dial back flow and turn off skimmer. 4) Control lighting 5) shut down some equipment in case of power failure and shift to UPS 5) Shut down all appiicable equipment and notify me in case of deviation in pH, water level, temp, etc. That is a lot, and a lot of work. Any thoughts? Thanks!

03/25/2016, 03:13 PM	#3717
KeithP Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Walnut Creek, near San Francisco Posts: 39	Most fish like rocks. Having less rock does not mean less fish. When you dive or snorkel in the ocean the fish mostly stay where the rock is. Limiting rock does make the tank look nice and show off the fish you have more since they can't hide so do whatever makes you happy. Since your tank only has 2 pipes in the overflow, you should consider a Herbie style overflow and/or hook up a level sensor as backup to avoid overflows. I am no skimmer expert but I believe it has to be WAY oversized to actually cause a problem but it will use more energy for no added benefit beyond a certain point. Get one that experienced reefers with a similar size tank like. You could also consider an algae scrubber or algae reactor instead. When made properly and maintained, they are quite effective. 600 gph is not much flow. I think you will be better off with one return nozzle. You can split it later if you think it is blasting too much water in one place. I put in multiple nozzles with valves but ended up closing the valve so only one runs. DOS is more accurate but more expensive. Cheaper pumps can work but you will need to be more careful to monitor salinity which will change over time. Wish I could speak from experience, I have the DOS but my baby has occupied too much time so it is not connected to the mixing tank or drain yet. Apex is really nice for your listed desires. ORP and salinity are interesting but not very useful for me. A pH probe in my Kalkreactor is useful and temperature is essential. You didn't mention lighting. Pick a good one if the tank didn't come with it. I am running 2 Radions placed near the front aimed at an angle toward the back and still think I would be better off adding a T5 strip to fill in the shadows a little. The radions are overkill and would have better coverage as 3- one cluster lights instead of two double cluster lights. Good luck

03/25/2016, 10:31 PM	#3718
KeithP Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Walnut Creek, near San Francisco Posts: 39	uploadfromtaptalk1458965528629.jpg This is my 92. Yes that is a working porthole. uploadfromtaptalk1458965730973.jpg It sits on heavy duty stage casters although they are rated to carry 50% more than the tank weight, the compress the floor grain so I wish I had used another caster assembly. uploadfromtaptalk1458965946977.jpg Looks cool open. 40 breeder sump on lower right. 13 gal tank goes behind the porthole. RODI and salt mixer on the lower left. There is space for a light box on the right but the curved glass makes this less visible. The upper left is net and scraper and baster storage. uploadfromtaptalk1458966019030.jpg The casters allow access to hidden electrical and miscellaneous stuff. The skimmer is also accessed from the back. Since the skimmer is not under the tank, it leaves height to add a swabbie and for easier maintenance. uploadfromtaptalk1458966131306.jpg Food and test equipment drawers I have a one year old and that is delaying a number of improvements I have planned.

03/25/2016, 10:46 PM	#3719
Nic33 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 24	Forgot the lighting. Wanted to go led so was thinking about either picking up some used AI/radions or going the Chinese black box route. I was thinking if I went the black box route I could get 3 so I would have good coverage but just run them at low power. Your cabinet is amazing. I like the way your canopy opens. I was trying to figure out the best way to rig that. What is you canopy height? If I went with 3 fixtures I may have to mount them a little higher.

03/25/2016, 10:50 PM	#3720
Nic33 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 24	Did you extend your cabinet out behind the tank? How did you fit 53 gallons down there? I love the integrated storage. For skimmer I am now thinking aquamaxx q2. Small footprint for the rated ability and good quality from what I can see. I have a 3 and 1 year old so I feel your pain. Doing all of this late night does not make for the best work.

03/25/2016, 10:54 PM	#3721
Nic33 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 24	Oh and I also have hardwoods so am a little worried. If you didn't have to move your tank for access would you still go the casters route. I suppose it makes it easier to clean spills as you don't have to worry about water that creeps under it. I will be monitoring salinity that way if the is a big deviation I can shut down the ato in case that is the cause. I can not afford another flood. We had one caused by a washer two years ago, hence all new hard woods throughout the house.

03/26/2016, 08:00 AM	#3725
Nic33 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 24	If I used both pipes in the overflow for the herbie I would have to run an external return over the top. If I lived anywhere else I wouldn't worry. But with it being so close to the wall in the case of an earthquake I am afraid the line would get broken and I would be pumping water onto the floor. Is that a crazy concern? I was hoping with a stable stand I could make it through a quake without breaking the entire tank but I would see that return as a weak spot. I'm going to steal a lot from your design! Love the sliding rails for the lights. It's going to take me some time to fully digest all the info you have given me.