ETSS Skimmer Club!

[Nomadic]

Also DPalm, if your going to use your return pump to power your skimmer, the return pump must be large enough to not only give you the proper turnover rate for your main but also enough pressure to drive the skimmer. In addition, to do that you`ll have to Tee off your main return line, use a ball valve(to control the pressure to the skimmer), then a quick disconnect to make servicing the pumps and skimmer much more practical. I used 2 seperate pumps for the return and skimmer along with ball valves and quick disconnects for both pumps and skimmer.

[Nomadic]

saltwaterguy...you can get detailed info on any ETSS skimmer at www.superskimmer.com . Hope that will help more.

[DPalm3]

thanks for the advice Nomadic.
my current system uses a hammerhead for the return but Ts off for the chiller and refugium already so there's not enough pressure for all 4 outlets (return included).
i think im going to start using the iwaki pump

[ostrow]

Dpalm, I run an ETSS 1000 T-ed off a Hammerhead, that runs my whole system -- 16' upstairs to the display, 8' across to fuge and frag tank, UV, carbon and purigen. I have the skimmer on the 1st T before all of those others. And the pump is still throttled back a bit.

If a Hammerhead can run all of that, it ought to be able to run your setup with the 600.

[cnaegler]

Ostrow,
How did you go about modding the 1000 into a 1500?

[jdieck]

Originally posted by cnaegler
Ostrow,
How did you go about modding the 1000 into a 1500?

A larger pump and the taller top raiser of the 1500. Everything else is the same for both.

[cnaegler]

Originally posted by jdieck
A larger pump and the taller top raiser of the 1500. Everything else is the same for both.

So, if i called Gary over at aetech, i could get the 1500 top, taller riser tube. The only thing i worry about with that is that i have the older model ETSS 1000 with a 1 1/4" output. Do you guys think that'll handle the extra flow from the input of a bigger pump(panworld 250 OR Iwaki 100 RLT) OR do ya'll think that the panworld 200 (hi-pressure, 1750 GPH) will work. I'm already having to gate the pump output back to keep my level down so i'm thinking that i could always open it a little more for the taller riser tube. Whatcha guys think?

[jdieck]

Originally posted by cnaegler
So, if i called Gary over at aetech, i could get the 1500 top, taller riser tube. The only thing i worry about with that is that i have the older model ETSS 1000 with a 1 1/4" output. Do you guys think that'll handle the extra flow from the input of a bigger pump(panworld 250 OR Iwaki 100 RLT) OR do ya'll think that the panworld 200 (hi-pressure, 1750 GPH) will work. I'm already having to gate the pump output back to keep my level down so i'm thinking that i could always open it a little more for the taller riser tube. Whatcha guys think?

The output will handle the higher flow from the larger pump although I will try to run it with the 200 you already have (IMO it will run fine) and yes Gary can sell you the top. A side note: Although the flanges and riser diameter are the same, the holes in the flanges are usually cut as a matched pair so Gary will need the measurement of the distance between oposing center holes for the flange screws just to insure that the new flange at the bottom of the riser will match.

[cnaegler]

Well, I e-mailed gary at AETech. He says i would need to ship him the skimmer so they could replace the parts/gate valve with a 1 1/2 one. He's also recommending that i use at least a 1/3 hp Iwaki 100 or even better a 1/2 hp Iwaki.
That's about $200.00 in shipping, not to include replacement parts/ labor and the cost (?) of a new pump. Not to include the power to run such a beast. Just seems like alot of money for something i'm not so sure of. My current 1000 seems to be working fine for now.

[ostrow]

Originally posted by cnaegler
Well, I e-mailed gary at AETech. He says i would need to ship him the skimmer so they could replace the parts/gate valve with a 1 1/2 one. He's also recommending that i use at least a 1/3 hp Iwaki 100 or even better a 1/2 hp Iwaki.
That's about $200.00 in shipping, not to include replacement parts/ labor and the cost (?) of a new pump. Not to include the power to run such a beast. Just seems like alot of money for something i'm not so sure of. My current 1000 seems to be working fine for now.

Major PITA to ship, plus, guaranteed something would break. Would he charge yo umore to fix what breaks?

[Nomadic]

no..that should not be the case. His packing may well be foam injected. The gives max protection. If so, UPS will then cover the cost of dammage due to the method of packing. Checking with Gary on that would be a good thing

[jdieck]

Originally posted by cnaegler
Well, I e-mailed gary at AETech. He says i would need to ship him the skimmer so they could replace the parts/gate valve with a 1 1/2 one. He's also recommending that i use at least a 1/3 hp Iwaki 100 or even better a 1/2 hp Iwaki.
That's about $200.00 in shipping, not to include replacement parts/ labor and the cost (?) of a new pump. Not to include the power to run such a beast. Just seems like alot of money for something i'm not so sure of. My current 1000 seems to be working fine for now.

My 1000 had a 1-1/2" valve so I did not have to send it. Sorry for the confusion.

[ostrow]

Originally posted by Nomadic
no..that should not be the case. His packing may well be foam injected. The gives max protection. If so, UPS will then cover the cost of dammage due to the method of packing. Checking with Gary on that would be a good thing

Gary ships that way, yes. But last I checked, most hobbyists lack the equipment to foam-inject a package! UPS doesn't have that at their shops either.

[rigleautomotive]

a garbage bag and a couple cans of spray foam will work

[cnaegler]

Originally posted by rigleautomotive
a garbage bag and a couple cans of spray foam will work

I imagine that would work but i still would have to deal with the actual cost of shipping, which i would imagine to be approx. $100.00 each way (?) I checked on a 1/2 HP Iwaki pump.... $596.00 for the pump, plus i'm sure extra weight on the shipping.
It has a 3- phase, 230v motor. I can just see the meter wheel flying out of the case!
The whole reason i asked about upgrading to a 1500 was because i was going to upgrade my tank to a 375 (96 x 36x 25) or 450 (96 x 48 x 25) when i build the new house and I was trying to save some cash by simply (ha-ha) upgrading what i have.
As a side note, i think you guys are awesome for all your help and input. That's why i hang out here on RC.

[rigleautomotive]

no problem ,glad to help

[DPalm3]

Originally posted by ostrow
Dpalm, I run an ETSS 1000 T-ed off a Hammerhead, that runs my whole system -- 16' upstairs to the display, 8' across to fuge and frag tank, UV, carbon and purigen. I have the skimmer on the 1st T before all of those others. And the pump is still throttled back a bit.

If a Hammerhead can run all of that, it ought to be able to run your setup with the 600.

wow. the hammerhead is a powerful pump. I had everything T-ed off but the ball valve on the skimmer was closed and all of the outlets (chiller, return, and refugium) had perfect pressure before i added the skimmer. now when i add the skimmer, i would think that i'll be losing all of the pressure and flow rates that i had. i just can't decide if i should keep it on the maine line of plumbing or set up a seperate pump (my iwaki) for the skimmer.

[rigleautomotive]

i really like running them on there own pump if practical.they are easier to keep adjusted in most cases with a constant pressure and when you add a few variables in there its possible for the skimmer to not get proper pressure.

[diverdick]

+1 rugleautomotive

[llebcire]

I ran a Reef Devil deluxe on my previous system for quite a while an it consistantly pulled dark smelly skimmate.

System was a 75g w/30g fuge & a 100g Rubbermaid sump.

Granted, the system was running for years before I added the ETSS and had a heavier load, but I can't get it dialed in on my new tank.

It was in the sump b4, now it's next to the sump/fuge


Running Rio 2500+ @ 792gph and it isn't consistant. Initially, I thought that I had made a mistake with the right angle, but this is the piece that ships with the skimmer for the outlet.

It skimms, then dies off and I need to clean it - been cleaned several times and the system has only been up since March. Cleaned it a week ago and ended up with it over running with clear water - installed an adjustment valve on the pump and it seems to be better - now a week later I can run the pump @ full output. Strange.

Thinking I need more of a load and to leave it alone for a while.

-Eric

[llebcire]

Originally posted by reef_only
It would be nice if you can share some pics of the mod and silencer thing.

From AETech:

"Both air and waste containers hook up to the E.T.S.S.® with 3/4 in tubing to their respective hose barbs.
The waste container must be placed below the drain fitting on the skimmer to allow water to drain freely into it. The air inlet hose can be run to any convenient spot. Including running it to a remote location (such as to draw air from outside a window etc.) if desired. Up to 30 ft. of ¾ in hose can be used for the air intake.
Note: Three or more feet of proper tubing attached to the air intake totally silences it, without any loss in performance. This applies to all ETSS filters."

I used 3' of tubing and it made it quiet with no effect on the skimmer.

A.E. Tech ETSS Owner's Manual

[llebcire]

Originally posted by thecichlidpleco
Finally got my 600(older version), but have two different sources saying that a mag 5 or 7 should be used and another saying that a mag 12(the etss manual) should be used. Which is suggested?

[Nomadic]

I never used a mag 12 so i could not recommend...i have used a 3 mdq-sc. It was supposed to be a 4 but, i stuck with it. That pump had a little rubber stopper on top so like 2 drops of household lube oil could be added every 6 months to the housing. The pump ran hot, however it never did fail and served as a good backup pump after finally replaced.
After that, i used a Iwaki 55-RLT,(which we never tryed before), and my setup became a test. The 600 took on a life of it`s own with that pump...ummm it was a bit much . After that, a Gen-x PCX-40. It ran cool and was a stable pump in Garys arsenal. I currently use that Gen-x PCX-40 on my "patent pending" 600 heh . I would recomend that OR an Iwaki 40 RLT(jap model) if you can get it. You may just have to wire the plug on that one but, it`s a high quality pump for the $.
I also run a Iwaki 70 RLT for my return to the main, tee off to the 150 cryptic refuge and tee off to my Rowa-phos reactors. Hope that helps .

[cnaegler]

Originally posted by llebcire
I ran a Reef Devil deluxe on my previous system for quite a while an it consistantly pulled dark smelly skimmate.

System was a 75g w/30g fuge & a 100g Rubbermaid sump.

Granted, the system was running for years before I added the ETSS and had a heavier load, but I can't get it dialed in on my new tank.

It was in the sump b4, now it's next to the sump/fuge


Running Rio 2500+ @ 792gph and it isn't consistant. Initially, I thought that I had made a mistake with the right angle, but this is the piece that ships with the skimmer for the outlet.

It skimms, then dies off and I need to clean it - been cleaned several times and the system has only been up since March. Cleaned it a week ago and ended up with it over running with clear water - installed an adjustment valve on the pump and it seems to be better - now a week later I can run the pump @ full output. Strange.

Thinking I need more of a load and to leave it alone for a while.

-Eric

Same thing mine does. What a PITA! It has a mag 7 feeding it in a compartment in my sump where the level never changes so i can't figure out what the deal is. About the time it starts foaming good, it's time to clean the riser tube. It seems like all the gunk builds up in the riser tube rather than makes it to the cup. I may sell this one and get a different skimmer to see if i can get better results that way.
I have an ETSS 1000 on my 180 and it does a heck of a job so i don't know whats up.

[rigleautomotive]

Originally posted by llebcire
I ran a Reef Devil deluxe on my previous system for quite a while an it consistantly pulled dark smelly skimmate.

System was a 75g w/30g fuge & a 100g Rubbermaid sump.

Granted, the system was running for years before I added the ETSS and had a heavier load, but I can't get it dialed in on my new tank.

It was in the sump b4, now it's next to the sump/fuge


Running Rio 2500+ @ 792gph and it isn't consistant. Initially, I thought that I had made a mistake with the right angle, but this is the piece that ships with the skimmer for the outlet.

It skimms, then dies off and I need to clean it - been cleaned several times and the system has only been up since March. Cleaned it a week ago and ended up with it over running with clear water - installed an adjustment valve on the pump and it seems to be better - now a week later I can run the pump @ full output. Strange.

Thinking I need more of a load and to leave it alone for a while.

-Eric

The pump you are driving it with is not consistent or strong enough to keep it stable.that skimmer runs great with a pressure rated pump like a iwalki 20rlt or a blue line HD20.I know the manual says they can be ran with a mag pump but they never reach full potential until you put a pressure rated pump on them