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#351 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Haines City, FL
Posts: 455
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I am on the verge of switching to LEDs as well and eyeing the "black boxes." I'm admittedly leaning towards the AquariumLED website rather than ebay, if nothing but for the customer service.
One of my local shops sells some very popular custom ordered fixtures and priced me a 180W setup (3w bulbs) in a 14K spectrum for $299. I figure I'd need 3 of them as I'm lighting a 7' 230g softie reef. Am I correct in understanding that this would merely be a few more bulbs in the assembly? (60 vs 40, right) And is 120W enough? Is 180W too much? Here I finally thought I had "lighting" figured out, and I have a whole new system to learn... I'm currently running 3 250W Phoenix 14K moguls on Lumenmax Elite reflectors, and the bulbs are, ahem, older than I'd care to admit, but I love the coloring. The thing I am most concerned about is getting the color right. I've run everything from 6500 Iwasakis to 20K Radiums (well, for a short while), +/- actinic VHOs, and I don't want to be unhappy with the color. I plan to suspend them on chains in the canopy. I have 11" of space, and figure that a small fan in the canopy blowing across the vertically mounted fans in the fixtures should ventilate it enough. Any input appreciated. I have been waffling on the tank for quite a bit lately, and figured I needed a big change. |
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#352 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Glendale
Posts: 696
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If you go back a couple of pages, you'll see my comments and pictures. I used to run 250 radiums under a lumenbrite reflector (coralvue ballast) and switched to the 120watt 20k aquarium leds. The led color is not an issue for me; its a little bit whiter than the radiums but i like how it looks. The leds don't appear to be as intense as the MH, but spread is actually better. My tank is 24" deep and the leds are fine for that depth so far (although its still early for me).
If you have MH now, then heat obviously won't be an issue. Not cool to the touch, but not hot either. |
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#353 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Loveland, Colorado
Posts: 142
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I had five of these 120w 1w panel. Three over my 210g (30" depth), two over my 75g. I started them at 15" otw on the 210g and 24" otw on the 75g. I moved them down in 3" increments weekly over the 75g and from 15" to 7" otw on the 210g after apx 2 months.
8 hour cycles on both. I may have had other tank issues going on as the 210g has only been set up for a total of about 4 months. The corals and fish were moved from one 125g (main), into a temporary holding 125g while the 210g was installed in place of the original 125g. This process took about 10 days. The 75g has been set up for over 2 years and was using 4 t5ho bulbs in an aquamedic fixture. Sorry for all the back story. When the 210g was initially stocked and ready to run I had definately noticed some die off due to the move. I was quickly surprised when sps that I thought were totally dead seemed to come back to life. Zoas popped LPS seemed happy. This trend continued for about a month. Growth stopped, zoas, even the ones at the top, started getting 2" long stalks and were really reaching for the light. Tips on the sps that had gotten color were now turning white. I thought the lights were too intense so I tried lowering corals. Death continued. Things that weren't dying, weren't growing either. Did some reading and found that the corals might not be bleaching but might actually be "browning out" due to lack of light. Tried moving several corals, up, down, probably too much. All my chalices are now gone. All but one acan is gone (it went from a bright red to now an orange-its only half alive). In 4 months I went from extremely happy with my leds to distraught. Maybe its not them? maybe its the "penetration". I ordered a new panel with 3w leds and 80 degree optics. While it was being made i decided to try metal halides. Three days in and I'm not happy with the color (possible bulb issue, possible burn in) but my corals are already getting puffier. The 75g had a more drastic result. Lost two anemones almost right away. Got frustrated and left the leds where they were. Some green leather loves it and grew like mad same with kenya, xenya not so much. One rainbow nem doesn't seem to mind although he was moving around alot more then with the t5s indicating un happy. I'm currently breaking this tank down due to expected increase in operation costs of the 210g with halides. I can't positively tell you that the LED panels caused everything to die that did. I can't tell you why some of my friends with these exact same panels are having great results. I can't tell you I won't get mad with my electric bill and go back to LED. The 210 is newer, maybe thats the reason? The 75g had been established for a long time, maybe too established? I have no clue. I can tell you that the varied results from different keepers had/has me nervous enough to go back in time and try halides. I can also tell you that merely three days in and I am noticing an improvement in coral apperance (much like I had when I initially went to LED). Could be that I am just looking for something to blame and the LED panels seemed like a good target. I honestly do not know, I just wanted to share my story as I see alot of people jumping on this train. Just be careful people. Sorry if you feel my post is out of line. |
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#354 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 6,361
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Quote:
Lol. Trying to figure out how many LEDs I need over my 220 Corey |
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#355 | |
Registered Member.
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 117
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Quote:
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#356 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fox Valley Wisconsin
Posts: 236
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Quote:
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stuck between..."wanting to know everything" and "too lazy to learn" Current Tank Info: It's getting there |
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#357 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 359
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Quote:
"I bought them from ebay, here is the link" http://www.ebay.com/itm/140647717867...84.m1497.l2649
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Peter Current Tank Info: Scribbled angel, blond naso tang, purple tang, fowleri tang, percula clown. /f - SRO 3000 INT skimmer |
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#358 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fox Valley Wisconsin
Posts: 236
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Quote:
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stuck between..."wanting to know everything" and "too lazy to learn" Current Tank Info: It's getting there |
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#359 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Posts: 159
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sorry guys just saw this, I guess they removed that link, here's the ones I got http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-NEW-120-...#ht_5974wt_904 |
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#360 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Tracy CA.
Posts: 1,353
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Just an update on these lights.
My RBTA, Blue Tenuis, Green Birdsnest and Hammer are all doing fine under my black box of LED's, so far. ![]()
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Kevin The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. Current Tank Info: CADlights Artison II 165g, 50g sump,Aquamaxx Q-3 Skimmer, AI Hydra 26 HD. |
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#361 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,070
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Quote:
LOL. I like pics, let's see some. I'd also be willing to borrow a chinese LED set up for someone. That way you all could have an unbiased tester report to you. PM for my address you can ship two of them to me right away ;-).
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"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken" - Colonel Sanders Current Tank Info: 75 w/ 20 sump |
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#362 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Posts: 159
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Morning guys,
Figured id post a pic of my new addition, since it was waiting on me when the lights cut on this morning, it is 30" below the leds ![]() |
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#363 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,183
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Quote:
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#364 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,070
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Quote:
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"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken" - Colonel Sanders Current Tank Info: 75 w/ 20 sump |
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#365 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Tracy CA.
Posts: 1,353
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Quote:
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__________________
Kevin The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. Current Tank Info: CADlights Artison II 165g, 50g sump,Aquamaxx Q-3 Skimmer, AI Hydra 26 HD. |
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#366 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 317
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Quote:
![]() http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2123253 Quote:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2048765 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&postcount=112 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...php?p=19146499 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...71&postcount=3
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Bill Current Tank Info: 180 gallon zoo |
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#367 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 149
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What do you guys think about these? Saw them on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/170736938850...84.m1555.l2649
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#368 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 317
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That is the eshines fixture, with a higher price.
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Bill Current Tank Info: 180 gallon zoo |
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#369 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 149
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#370 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 317
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Quote:
With Cree and controller 385 Bridgelux without controller 128 Cree without controller 219
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Bill Current Tank Info: 180 gallon zoo |
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#371 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 329
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Does anyone have a tank picture of the 120w led with 30 blue and 25 whites? I would love to see these before I commit to a purchase. I have personally seen the 120w 1 watt led with 1:1 blue/white ratio and thought it was a little too blue for my taste. I've been eyeing these on Ebay but having a tough time deciding which manufacturer to choose from.
Thanks. |
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#372 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Benicia CA
Posts: 195
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Interesting thread. There is an individual on here that stated heat sink. He/She is on the money in regards to these units. HEAT is the number 1 enemy with LEDS. I have a buddy on the hydroponic side that actually have units similar to these units but are custom 135 watt unit and a 400 watt unit. He did the ratio of spectrums needed for growing and the wattage used on kill-a-watt showed only a 60 watt usage.
The thing that he ran into was the fans after R&D would start making a larger humming sound, like bad. I can't imagine these fixture being near humidity and saltwater especially enclosed. Second thing would be the heat exchange when cooling these over driven leds. This would significantly decrease the efficacy of the lights. I thought of getting fixtures made but the right way would be to have cree leds being used and LEGIT 2-3 watt LEDS with optics and dimmable. After seeing the price I shyed away since these units have to be bought in bulk. |
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#373 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 114
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I use these over FW tank in my office.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110773729818...ht_1642wt_1016 ![]() ![]() My SW tank at home gets only THE BEST though! Ecoxotic Panorama currently with whole bunch of stunners (otherwise nothing grows). Getting Radions next week though. ![]() |
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#374 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Posts: 159
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Quote:
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#375 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,761
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Just ordered 3 of the 120 3w 14k off of aquariumleds.com
I have zero corals up and running, so I should be a good tester. Looking to mount using adjustable shelving components, hopefully I can cram the power cable in the bracket then run back side down thru the wall for a clean build, if I can figure out how to slide the tank back a few foot so I can the drill into the wall....any suggestions on that??!? lol Mock up I made (my crappy Photoshop but it is to scale! hehe): ![]() Cut this into 3 12" sections: ![]() Need 3 of these (the 14"). Makes it easier to raise light up and down etc. ![]()
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135g mixed reef (retired) http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2132815 Current 40g reef http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2483250 Current Tank Info: 40g bare bottom reef |
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Tags |
equipment, led, lighting |
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