My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by ReefWreak

Since the ich is in the tank, if the powder brown is healthy and eating, I'd just keep on feeding healthy foods and leave him alone. Pulling the otherwise healthy fish and treating him for a disease that he'll immediately just pick back up again when he gets back into the display sounds like a waste of time and resources, and will stress him out more than leaving him alone and treating him to an extra helping of selcon or other delicious foods to help him through his current health crisis.

If ich is present in the tank, it's there, and you wont get rid of it unless you keep it fallow and/or treat it directly (hyposalinity, copper, etc). Many/most of us have ich in our tanks, and the fish show it when stressed. As long as they're eating and otherwise healthy, it shouldn't be a problem seeing them through this recent bout.

I think the bigger concern than ich itself if its already in your display and you aren't likely to get rid of it are secondary bacterial infections from fishes scratching on the rocks due to ich causing itching.

And while this is certainly not going to get rid of the ich, do you have a cleaner shrimp that might help the fishes through this stage of the disease? It won't cure it, but it may provide temporary relief when the fishes need it?

Thanks ReefWreak,

What you suggest is exactly what I have been doing.
Continue to wait and not do anything drastic to Tank or Fish. (With hope Power Brown will eventually fight it off).
I wouldn't say he is healthy looking. But acting healthy for sure.

He and all fish will eat as much as I provide. I am feeding a good variety (flake,Pellets, and Frozen Hikari Spirulina Brine Shrimp).
ONE THING I COULD ADD is some NORI on a clip.

Yes, I have a cleaner shrimp.

[ReefWreak]

It sounds like you're doing everything you can and should be doing at this point short of tearing the tank down and QTing everyone/everything.

If you do add nori, I've heard of people soaking it in selcon before feeding it, so that it's particularly nutritious. Just something to think about. Sounds like they're getting plenty of food variety as well which is always good.

[Wally.B]

TOOL SERILIZATION (For Ich) to avoid Cross contamination to other Healthy tank.

Although I practice good techniques to not cross contaminate my two tanks (for everything including Algae, Cyano, fish deseases like ich) what is the best tool sterilization method?

I use separate buckets, hoses. Even so, I rinse hoses and buckets and never use again till they are fully dry. I use buckets that I have labelled dirty and they only are for water extracts.

I use separate labelled cups to extract water from both tanks for water testing (ie I never put water test kit syringes inside both tanks).

But I do use thongs, cutter and tools like that between tanks.
I rinse them with fresh water, then let dry at least a day before using again in other tank.

Is that good enough to avoid an ich transfer? Or is there something better that I can do during this ich outbreak. (Like use Hydrogen Peroxide or vinegar to sterile tools before drying).

[Wally.B]

Nitrate Improvement (SPS TANK) Algae Scrubber?

I don't want to think about the LPS tank an Ich anymore. Not much I can do right now.

However the SPS tank Nitrate level has dropped to > 5ppm, but <10ppm.
That's an improvement over >>>10ppm and <25ppm not so long ago.
Slow drop is good.

I wonder if the ATS waking up is the contributing factor.

We'll see.

[reefmutt]

Hey Wally, as to the scrubber and the cyano, I think you are in the right track with additives. As for lighting, I'd be inclined to keep the intensity but lower photoperiod- not the reverse. The algea loves bright light - not sure one can over light algea but it can (I think) get exhausted from photosynthesizing too long..
Regardless, it seems to be heading in the right direction.. that's good.

[reefmutt]

I have seen ich appear in systems where there was absolutely no additions for months. Fish like the powder brown tang are just susceptible to it.
I think Nori is an excellent idea. Keep him as fat as you can.
I agree with reefwreck 100%
You could also try feeding him some spectrum medicated pellets.. just make sure he eats them all and they done land on the corals. Tricky to do perhaps.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

I have seen ich appear in systems where there was absolutely no additions for months. Fish like the powder brown tang are just susceptible to it.
I think Nori is an excellent idea. Keep him as fat as you can.
I agree with reefwreck 100%
You could also try feeding him some spectrum medicated pellets.. just make sure he eats them all and they done land on the corals. Tricky to do perhaps.

Cool. He is a pellet lover. Doesn't know what to do with the Nori. (He seems to only eat Pellets since that is what he was fed in store)

But I didn't know about the Spectrum Medicated Pellet (Ick Shield)

https://www.bigalspets.com/ca/new-li...html?sku=62614

Just called big Als and they can order them. I have to wait till Tuesday for next ship in date.

That is exactly what I need.

May Kill two birds with one stone. The Green Palys that are overtaking my tank slowly are the only ones that tend to catch left over Pellets. LET THEM EAT (any left overs)!

MANY THANKS FOR THIS!!!!

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

I think Nori is an excellent idea. Keep him as fat as you can.

Didn't take long for the Algae Blenny to find and STUFF himself on the Nori.

I used to feed him Nori, but then stopped, so he would take care of Tank Algae.



However the Tang is constantly watching the Blenny eat, and may eventually learn from him.



Btw. The Brown Tang isn't as bad looking as he was this morning. All kind of covered in a Slime/Web. That's why I panicked.
He just woke up (since Kids going to school again. I fed tank early).

Appears he shakes the stuff off, after he get moving in the tank. It must be the mucus that is fighting off the Ick Parasite. (Freaked me out)

But those med Pellets are coming soon.

[reefmutt]

There was a contributor to mhucasey's (matt) Build thread who was a biologist I think. His name was reefvet- haven't seen him around for a while.. anyways, he said that nori is metabolized by the fish and produces aspartic acid- a beneficial amino acid for the corals.. it is what is contained in several amino acid supplements available on the market like the Julian sprung amino supplement. It's all that is in there. Just a little FYI..
I bet if you keep adding the nori, the tang will come around to eating it..

[sensei]

Wally,

The best thing is to treat all fish in that tank with TTM and leave the tank fishless 72 days to get rid of ich once and for all. TTM is really easy to do.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by sensei

Wally,

The best thing is to treat all fish in that tank with TTM and leave the tank fishless 72 days to get rid of ich once and for all. TTM is really easy to do.

I looked up TTM, and found this.
https://www. r e e f 2 r e e f.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655

Going to analyze this further.

Sounds like I have to catch all my fish.
Originally I was thinking that will be impossible (to catch the Algae Blenny).
But if he loves Nori, maybe not impossible after all.

However I did order the Med Pellets, and see how that goes.

[Wally.B]

New SPS Tank FRAG (Can't Stop Staring at it) Forest Fire Digitata

So when I went looking for Pellets, I came across a Frag I couldn't leave in the store.

When I brought it home, have to say I've never been so stunned by a Frags initial looks.

A Forest Fire Digi. Not an Fancy coral that will WOW the High End Acro experts.
Placed it Very Low down since it's not a high light coral. Secluded a bit to not get hit by high circulation.

This is 3 minutes after Mounting and placing in tank. The Polyp's haven't even come out.

I'll get a better photo once it acclimatizes, but this gived you an idea compared to my other Frags.

(I probably don't need to point it out to anyone)



If I can get it to grow, it will be a nice addition to the Tank.

[ReefWreak]

Nothing wrong with nice colored Montiporas! Forest fire is a great one and if you like that color combo, the Chili Pepper Monti Cap is a nice red/green contrasting SPS that is easy to keep and keep colored up (not to mention the cool scrolling of monti caps).

I'm glad the blenny is considering nori now. As mentioned, it would be ideal if now you can catch all of the fishes, run the tank fallow for 72 days, and treat them all gently through hyposalinity in a QT or just do TTM (though TTM is quick, and you'll need to leave the display without fishes for 72 days, so almost no reason to rush through).

It's so great that our hobby has advanced to the point now where not only is it achievable to have a tank free of ich, but it's pretty easy and not an expensive process either.

Just remember to TTM/quarantine all new fishes going forward too (another reason to consider QT for corals too, in theory they could transfer ich between tanks).

[sensei]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

I looked up TTM, and found this.
https://www. r e e f 2 r e e f.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655

Going to analyze this further.

Sounds like I have to catch all my fish.
Originally I was thinking that will be impossible (to catch the Algae Blenny).
But if he loves Nori, maybe not impossible after all.

However I did order the Med Pellets, and see how that goes.

yes, that is the best thread for TTM IMO.
I have done easilly more than 50 times and it has never failed for me.
I belive you have around 4 or 5 fish in that tank, so you can do all of them at same time

good luck

[Wally.B]

My thoughts are with the People of Turks and Caicos.

They just got hit by Hurricane Irma, and possibly another storm on the way.

The Island is beautiful and after a week there the Hotel Staff at "The Sands" were like Family, so I think of them and hope all is as best as can be.

I got these Flora Photo's just on the Hotel Property, and know things are not the same.



The Island got hit Directly By The Eye at 2am this morning and at this point all communication is lost, and I haven't heard anything on news yet.





This Photo I took a couple of week ago, looking out into Turks Sunset is kind of special, since it kind of represents to me an image of the Storm that was brewing and on the way to the Island.




My thoughts and prayers are with them all, and all places that have, or will be affected.

[Wally.B]

Forest Fire Digitata Frag (Next Day) Lights Come on, and some PE today.

Yeah, I'm still obsessed with it's Striking Beauty.
I've seen them before, but never one like this with such Green Tips.



When I walk into my office, it stands out 20-30 feet away.

Never been so pleased before with a Frag Purchase.
Maybe it will look tacky when it gets bigger. Too overwhelming.

Might as well enjoy the moment. With my luck, it won't be around for long.

[Wally.B]

...Double Post

[Wally.B]

Algae Scrubber (Speeding up) Macro & Hair Algae Growing

Boring stuff, seeing Algae Grow, but for my record in case this happens again:

The photo Period must be good. 20 Hours ON. 95% Intensity.

I see both Macro Algae linking both screens, and Hair Algae on the Airline Hose. The Virgin screen is showing darkening.



I'm not measuring Nitrate Yet since I have about 3-4 Tests Left on My Salifert Kit.

Seems that Salifert (Nitrate only) is out of stock Everywhere.
All stores, and online in Canada backordered.
I had to go online and get one from West Coast.

[sachabud]

Hello,

I am in France, your thread of discussion is very interesting. Is it possible to have the code of the Dosing / Water Change controller?

Thanks in advance and continue this thread , which is very informative.

Sacha

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by sachabud

Hello,

I am in France, your thread of discussion is very interesting. Is it possible to have the code of the Dosing / Water Change controller?

Thanks in advance and continue this thread , which is very informative.

Sacha

Sacha. I will PM you and we can exchange emails.
Sure I can assist you, but I think just giving you over 1000 lines of complex code that took 1 year to write needs some discussion.

[reefmutt]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Forest Fire Digitata Frag (Next Day) Lights Come on, and some PE today.

Yeah, I'm still obsessed with it's Striking Beauty.
I've seen them before, but never one like this with such Green Tips.



When I walk into my office, it stands out 20-30 feet away.

Never been so pleased before with a Frag Purchase.
Maybe it will look tacky when it gets bigger. Too overwhelming.

Might as well enjoy the moment. With my luck, it won't be around for long.

Dayum!!! Wally, nice pic!!
Great detail and clarity.
No such thing as tacky and overwhelming when it comes to sexy corals

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Dayum!!! Wally, nice pic!!
Great detail and clarity.
No such thing as tacky and overwhelming when it comes to sexy corals

Thanks Matt,
The Corals get's the credit for looking so HOT!
But you get the credit for my improved Photo Skills.
The PHoto Tips/Tricks you shared on your thread really help.
For this photo, I still shot thru glass, but when you mentioned putting lense flat against glass, I thought about it.
So rather than shooting from an angle on a mini tripod like before, I put the camera on a few books (Perpendicular to tank). That helped get me focus across the whole frag.

More nice photo's to come as I continue to improve my skills. But need more healthy corals.
On that topic.....

Waiting for scrubber to bring down Nitrates.

Also I gave up on the 250W MH setting after a couple of weeks. Dropped to 175W for next while. Can't hurt much, and will help with tiny cyano outbreak.
All that light is fueling Film Algae on glass a lot. Maybe now slowing down with Scrubber kicking in.
250W x2, + 2x T5 is Just too intense in my opinion for 65Gallon space.
I think some corals don't like it since most are at the same depth in my tank. Tank is so bright, and I can see particulates way more than with just T5's on.
The Red Planet started Receeding at base (which is opposite of what it is suppose to do) . Showing burnt white tips too. Even thought ALK, P is stable.
I know this is contrary to what the PAR meter told me to get 350PARS.
Mid Intensity Lighting 200-300PARS (not Low) isn't a bad thing to restore Coral Health. Even the Acros.
Let Light Demanding Corals reach up to Higher PARS.

[Wally.B]

My Theory on (250W MH) Why Lighting is Too Intense

Here are my thoughts why I think 175W might be better, even though PAR meter says I need 250W, and Fixture Low @ 8".

-> Not much Lower than 250W, but better than 150W
-> I NOW have T5's on at same time as MH lights (before they were staggered)

-> Going back 3 years, the tank did well on 150W Bulbs, before I changed Ballast to Variable to handle 250W bulbs.
-> Back then my SPS corals grew (many varieties). Hardly any bleached, but were pale since I didn't have enough nutrients (fish). I now have nutrients.

-> I don't have colonies that are large and spread out to absorb all this light, it bounces off glass.... (Why waste all this electricity)
----> I am basically MOSTLY lighting up the Water Column (The Pariticulates, the Cyano floating, etc)

-> My MH light fixture has tight reflectors
-> Water Surface is turbulent and I noticed that PAR meter would swing in intensity with Surface circulation on (so maybe there are short burst hot spots caused by ripples which are like a Magnifying Glass)
-----> Too bad the PAR meter doesn't capture PEAKS.

-> All the corals doing well during 250W setting are slightly lower down

-> At Higher End of Lighting Intensity (it appears there is less forgiveness, for any instability). so is it a contributing factor to the Burn Tips, and Bleached Corals.
----> Why do top Tip burn (I know one factor is alk swing, but why?) It is thin tip that is more sensitive to Alk Swing, or is it the tip that is closer to light, OR IS IT BOTH !!
----> Why do bases recede (putting aside bugs, etc). Are bases not more exposed to light, than Vertical parts of Coral.

Matt, on your thread there was a recent post, that one successful tip for SPS is Lower Lighting, and more Frequent Water changes. I'm going that why for a while (As scrubber brings Nitrate down to the Low Level of P that I am holding right now).

[reefmutt]

Hey Wally, not necessarily lower lighting intensity but actually same intensity with shorter photoperiod...
However, I don't think you reducing from 250 to 175 would be a bad thing right now.
I think Ed had mentioned only needing about 6-8 hrs mh.. you could go longer with the t5- maybe another 2 hours on either side...
But with mh and t5, it's rarely a cause of burnt tips.. so, not sure where that's coming from.. I think some water changes can never hurt..

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Hey Wally, not necessarily lower lighting intensity but actually same intensity with shorter photoperiod...
However, I don't think you reducing from 250 to 175 would be a bad thing right now.
I think Ed had mentioned only needing about 6-8 hrs mh.. you could go longer with the t5- maybe another 2 hours on either side...
But with mh and t5, it's rarely a cause of burnt tips.. so, not sure where that's coming from.. I think some water changes can never hurt..

I still have MH 6 hours, T5's around 8 Hours. 1 hours break on T5's in middle.

Doing 175W just for a short while (more for Cyano control, since very VERY little, so don't want it to spread).

No new burned tips except for Red Planet (talking about the past for the others) which was probably caused by the Drastic P drop, and then the N rise with scrubber shutting down. (Instability).

Now things are stable, and if things stay that way (fingers crossed), I'll go back to 250W.