The T5 Q&a Thread - split

[Tron_954]

Ryan, what are you switching to & y?

[rtparty]

Going to an ATI LED powermodule. It is the 4x24w plus the LEDs.

I'll probably go 2 blue,1 actinic and either a coral plus or purple plus.

I will decide my final lineup when I see what the LEDs do.

[FlyPenFly]

Any thoughts on why the ATI over the Pacific Sun?

The Pac Sun module seems a lot more controllable with their iphone/android/web software with bluetooth and wifi. Also the Pac Sun is kind of better looking and their LED setup is cutting edge. The reflectors look really great and are probably on PAR (pun intended) with ATI.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by FlyPenFly

Any thoughts on why the ATI over the Pacific Sun?

The Pac Sun module seems a lot more controllable with their iphone/android/web software with bluetooth and wifi. Also the Pac Sun is kind of better looking and their LED setup is cutting edge. The reflectors look really great and are probably on PAR (pun intended) with ATI.

First and foremost: I'm reviewing the ATI.

Secondly, I hate pacific sun with a passion because of their old distributor. Without going into a ton of detail, they told me I should be banned because I called them out for false advertising. Of which, I had all the proof in the world they were knowingly advertising false information just to bump sales.

[Tron_954]

Bastards...

[overexposed]

Good day everyone. I'm looking for some advice about T5 tubes to run that will complement my DIY LED system. The LED fixtures are "full spectrum" meaning that I've got neutral whites, royal blues, OCWs (red, green and blue on a single chip), and violets. The result is a fairly balanced 20k look and decent blending with the use of 103 point light sources.

I'm keeping a 90 gallon SPS tank and wanted to add a bit more light in the blue spectrum. I chose to install a single T5 bulb on either side of the LED heatsinks, instead of adding more royal blues, hoping they would provide more "broad" coverage to compliment the point sources.

Got a ballast off of a local reefer but it is unmarked so I have no idea what it is. Anyways, I've been trying a couple of random bulbs that I managed to acquire from other reefers. ATI Purple+, Coralife Actinic, CurrentUSA Actinic, and a 6400k bulb (can't remember the brand).

I would like to add bulbs that have high par and lots of blue/purple. Well, maybe not purple because the Purple+ I added resulted in too much red/white (due in part to my OCW LEDs I think). I like the look of having the two actinics installed, but I know they are pretty crappy bulbs that don't put out much PAR. Looking for recommendations! Possibly 2 Blue+ bulbs??

Oh and I'm running the bulbs at the peak of my lighting schedule, coming on just after the white LEDs peak and ending just before the whites dim. The LEDs run from about noon till 9, with a half hour to one hour ramp up/down on each colour.

[FlyPenFly]

Originally Posted by rtparty

First and foremost: I'm reviewing the ATI.

Secondly, I hate pacific sun with a passion because of their old distributor. Without going into a ton of detail, they told me I should be banned because I called them out for false advertising. Of which, I had all the proof in the world they were knowingly advertising false information just to bump sales.

I do wish they had a 4x 24 watt available instead of only 2x on their smaller fixture. I think I'm planning to switch out next year for the Pac Sun from my 8 bulb sunpower.

I'm going to add 2x GLO Single T5 HO Fixtures to my 8 bulb so I can get some light in shooting perpendicular mounted on the tank, pretty great they can be angled. I'll probably be running UVL Actinics or more blue pluses, not sure yet in those.

[FlyPenFly]

Originally Posted by overexposed

Good day everyone. I'm looking for some advice about T5 tubes to run that will complement my DIY LED system. The LED fixtures are "full spectrum" meaning that I've got neutral whites, royal blues, OCWs (red, green and blue on a single chip), and violets. The result is a fairly balanced 20k look and decent blending with the use of 103 point light sources.

I'm keeping a 90 gallon SPS tank and wanted to add a bit more light in the blue spectrum. I chose to install a single T5 bulb on either side of the LED heatsinks, instead of adding more royal blues, hoping they would provide more "broad" coverage to compliment the point sources.

Got a ballast off of a local reefer but it is unmarked so I have no idea what it is. Anyways, I've been trying a couple of random bulbs that I managed to acquire from other reefers. ATI Purple+, Coralife Actinic, CurrentUSA Actinic, and a 6400k bulb (can't remember the brand).

I would like to add bulbs that have high par and lots of blue/purple. Well, maybe not purple because the Purple+ I added resulted in too much red/white (due in part to my OCW LEDs I think). I like the look of having the two actinics installed, but I know they are pretty crappy bulbs that don't put out much PAR. Looking for recommendations! Possibly 2 Blue+ bulbs??

Oh and I'm running the bulbs at the peak of my lighting schedule, coming on just after the white LEDs peak and ending just before the whites dim. The LEDs run from about noon till 9, with a half hour to one hour ramp up/down on each colour.

I would go with 2 Blue+ or UVL Actinics which actually put out a lot of PAR.

Keep in mind though, PAR is important but PUR is the true stat you need to worry about.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by Tron_954

Bastards...

That's the short of it and I don't care to post the details in here.

I wouldn't use their stuff personally but lots of people do with success.

The new distributor seems much more capable of doing their job.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by overexposed

Good day everyone. I'm looking for some advice about T5 tubes to run that will complement my DIY LED system. The LED fixtures are "full spectrum" meaning that I've got neutral whites, royal blues, OCWs (red, green and blue on a single chip), and violets. The result is a fairly balanced 20k look and decent blending with the use of 103 point light sources.

I'm keeping a 90 gallon SPS tank and wanted to add a bit more light in the blue spectrum. I chose to install a single T5 bulb on either side of the LED heatsinks, instead of adding more royal blues, hoping they would provide more "broad" coverage to compliment the point sources.

Got a ballast off of a local reefer but it is unmarked so I have no idea what it is. Anyways, I've been trying a couple of random bulbs that I managed to acquire from other reefers. ATI Purple+, Coralife Actinic, CurrentUSA Actinic, and a 6400k bulb (can't remember the brand).

I would like to add bulbs that have high par and lots of blue/purple. Well, maybe not purple because the Purple+ I added resulted in too much red/white (due in part to my OCW LEDs I think). I like the look of having the two actinics installed, but I know they are pretty crappy bulbs that don't put out much PAR. Looking for recommendations! Possibly 2 Blue+ bulbs??

Oh and I'm running the bulbs at the peak of my lighting schedule, coming on just after the white LEDs peak and ending just before the whites dim. The LEDs run from about noon till 9, with a half hour to one hour ramp up/down on each colour.

2 blue plus, 2 kz superblue or 1 blue and 1 coral plus.

The kz blue bulbs seem to be a touch more blue and less green than the blue plus.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by rtparty

Going to an ATI LED powermodule. It is the 4x24w plus the LEDs.

I'll probably go 2 blue,1 actinic and either a coral plus or purple plus.

I will decide my final lineup when I see what the LEDs do.

That is powerful sounding fixture considering it is only for a 24" wide tank. The LED's alone should be able to handle a 37 gallon tank and then the T-5's will boast that. While I'm not big on Atinica I think you will end up running something like 3 Atinics and a coral plus or blue plus.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by overexposed

Good day everyone. I'm looking for some advice about T5 tubes to run that will complement my DIY LED system. The LED fixtures are "full spectrum" meaning that I've got neutral whites, royal blues, OCWs (red, green and blue on a single chip), and violets. The result is a fairly balanced 20k look and decent blending with the use of 103 point light sources.

I'm keeping a 90 gallon SPS tank and wanted to add a bit more light in the blue spectrum. I chose to install a single T5 bulb on either side of the LED heatsinks, instead of adding more royal blues, hoping they would provide more "broad" coverage to compliment the point sources.

Got a ballast off of a local reefer but it is unmarked so I have no idea what it is. Anyways, I've been trying a couple of random bulbs that I managed to acquire from other reefers. ATI Purple+, Coralife Actinic, CurrentUSA Actinic, and a 6400k bulb (can't remember the brand).

I would like to add bulbs that have high par and lots of blue/purple. Well, maybe not purple because the Purple+ I added resulted in too much red/white (due in part to my OCW LEDs I think). I like the look of having the two actinics installed, but I know they are pretty crappy bulbs that don't put out much PAR. Looking for recommendations! Possibly 2 Blue+ bulbs??

Oh and I'm running the bulbs at the peak of my lighting schedule, coming on just after the white LEDs peak and ending just before the whites dim. The LEDs run from about noon till 9, with a half hour to one hour ramp up/down on each colour.

It is hard to tell exactly what your LED balnce is because we have no idea on the wattage of each color or the effeciency of each chip. The range of LED effeciency between brands and series now range from about 70lm to 120 lm per watt.

However I have doing a combinatons now and have found that the ATI blue plus work good with LED builds using a 4 watt blue to 1 watt neutral white ratio. The KZ blue might also be a good bet depending on your present color balance. But LED's lack in the 480 to 500 nm range and the ATI isstronger there while the KZ is stronger in the 440 to 455 range. You might try one of each?

[overexposed]

Thanks for the feedback guys. More details of the LEDs, all driven by MW LDD drivers:

-19 Royal Blue / Neutral White Cree XTE 3-ups (2x RB, 1x NW per chip) - 9w @ 1000ma (light intensity: NW:130lm RB:575mW flux @ 350mA according to spec sheet)
-6 True Violets (405 peak) - 3w @ 700ma
-10 Hyper Violets (430 peak) - 3w @ 700ma
-11 Ocean Coral White (Red, Teal, Cyan) - 9w @ 500ma

Unfortunately I don't know the brands for the violets or OCWs, nor their efficiency.... but I do have the spectral charts.

[FlyPenFly]

Any thoughts on if cycling on/off t5 twice a day instead of once shortens bulb life? Let's say at least an hour between a cycle

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by FlyPenFly

Any thoughts on if cycling on/off t5 twice a day instead of once shortens bulb life? Let's say at least an hour between a cycle

With proper ballasts that utilize soft start, I doubt you see anything significant but I have never tried that before.

[jwilliams860]

hey Lighting gurus, quick bulb question.

Im setting up a 150g 48x 30 x 24.

i have a 10 bulb powermodule, I used to have a powermodule over my old tank but some of the bulbs have changed since then so figured id ask here and see what ya think. No specific corals per say going in will be a mix of LPS, sps, softies, anenome.

Here is what I was thinking, but def open to suggestions.

1 blue plus
2 coral plus
3 purple plus
4 blue plus
5 coral plus
6 daylight
7 blue plus
8 purple plus
9 coral plus
10 blue plus

Thanks alot

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by jwilliams860

hey Lighting gurus, quick bulb question.

Im setting up a 150g 48x 30 x 24.

i have a 10 bulb powermodule, I used to have a powermodule over my old tank but some of the bulbs have changed since then so figured id ask here and see what ya think. No specific corals per say going in will be a mix of LPS, sps, softies, anenome.

Here is what I was thinking, but def open to suggestions.

1 blue plus
2 coral plus
3 purple plus
4 blue plus
5 coral plus
6 daylight
7 blue plus
8 purple plus
9 coral plus
10 blue plus

Thanks alot

Way too much red with 5 coral and purple plus together.

I'd go with 5 blue, 2 actinic and 3 coral plus. Just spread them out so nothing is clumped together.

[Tron_954]

Listen to what Ryan says, I tried just one of each with 2 blues and the P+ and C+ does have a lot of red... makes my brown look red lol...

[TropTrea]

[QUOTE=overexposed;22033874]Thanks for the feedback guys. More details of the LEDs, all driven by MW LDD drivers:

-19 Royal Blue / Neutral White Cree XTE 3-ups (2x RB, 1x NW per chip) - 9w @ 1000ma (light intensity: NW:130lm RB:575mW flux @ 350mA according to spec sheet)
-6 True Violets (405 peak) - 3w @ 700ma
-10 Hyper Violets (430 peak) - 3w @ 700ma
-11 Ocean Coral White (Red, Teal, Cyan) - 9w @ 500ma

Unfortunately I don't know the brands for the violets or OCWs, nor their efficiency.... but I do have the spectral charts.
\[QUOTE]

I am assuming these are spectrum charts from the manufacturer of the fixture. Since there is no truth in advertising on spctrum charts I hold them with a grain of salt.

I do like the idea of the 430nm "violets" But every wave lenght specific LED I have seen is very narow wave lenght. The half strenght frequency is always 5 nm or less + and - of the peak frequency. Also the peak frequency is usualy + or - 1% or less of the advertised frequency which does not sound like much but when you look at the numbers like a 405 nm violet could peak anywhere between 401 and 409, or a 430 nm could peak between 425.7 and 434.3.

The use of light in wavelenghts under 420 nm is very debatable. Some claim they are not benificiial, and some even claim anything under 400 is even detremental. Yet other's claim they are important. I personly use them very sparngly on a 120 gallon tank I have 4 running at 2 Watts each, and on a 40 gallon I have 2 running at 2 Watts each.

Ifyour running all these LED's at full power you have 318 Watts of LED lighting. With even LED's prodiucing only 70lm per watt you have enough light for a tank between 150 gallons and 200 gallons dependent on the corals your keeping. With moire effecient LED's like the CREE's you have even more light.

Where I am concerned is the so called ocean Coral White that look like they are producing a lot of red light. Yes a little red goes a long way in enhancing the reflective reds in a tank. But several studies have shown that excessive red light is one main cause of the bleaching of some corals. Red light also stimulates the growth of CYno Bacteria and allows it to flourish in even water that is low in phosphates and nitrogen compoinds.

On the4 430 nm "violets" I love that idea to a limited extent and would love finding some of these chips. Any clues as where they come from?

And finaly the original question If you are going to add T-5's I would go with the ATI Blue Plus. However I want you to be cautious as your totlal amount of light is probably very strong to say the least. If you do not have dimming now you may want to consider it and the LDD Drivers can be dimmed using PW signal.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by FlyPenFly

Any thoughts on if cycling on/off t5 twice a day instead of once shortens bulb life? Let's say at least an hour between a cycle

Yes but nothing that you notice if you hange the bulbs at least once year. Each restart is probably equal to about 10 minutes of run time as far as bulb degradation goes. Having proper cooling as the bulbs are running is much more important.

[overexposed]

Originally Posted by TropTrea

I am assuming these are spectrum charts from the manufacturer of the fixture. Since there is no truth in advertising on spctrum charts I hold them with a grain of salt.

I do like the idea of the 430nm "violets" But every wave lenght specific LED I have seen is very narow wave lenght. The half strenght frequency is always 5 nm or less + and - of the peak frequency. Also the peak frequency is usualy + or - 1% or less of the advertised frequency which does not sound like much but when you look at the numbers like a 405 nm violet could peak anywhere between 401 and 409, or a 430 nm could peak between 425.7 and 434.3.

The use of light in wavelenghts under 420 nm is very debatable. Some claim they are not benificiial, and some even claim anything under 400 is even detremental. Yet other's claim they are important. I personly use them very sparngly on a 120 gallon tank I have 4 running at 2 Watts each, and on a 40 gallon I have 2 running at 2 Watts each.

Ifyour running all these LED's at full power you have 318 Watts of LED lighting. With even LED's prodiucing only 70lm per watt you have enough light for a tank between 150 gallons and 200 gallons dependent on the corals your keeping. With moire effecient LED's like the CREE's you have even more light.

Where I am concerned is the so called ocean Coral White that look like they are producing a lot of red light. Yes a little red goes a long way in enhancing the reflective reds in a tank. But several studies have shown that excessive red light is one main cause of the bleaching of some corals. Red light also stimulates the growth of CYno Bacteria and allows it to flourish in even water that is low in phosphates and nitrogen compoinds.

On the4 430 nm "violets" I love that idea to a limited extent and would love finding some of these chips. Any clues as where they come from?

And finaly the original question If you are going to add T-5's I would go with the ATI Blue Plus. However I want you to be cautious as your totlal amount of light is probably very strong to say the least. If you do not have dimming now you may want to consider it and the LDD Drivers can be dimmed using PW signal.

WOW thank you for the incredibly detailed reply!! You are correct about the total wattage being over 318. I do have the LDD drivers hooked up to an Arduino controller and thus the LEDs are on a dimming schedule. All LEDs peak at 100% for at least 3 hours except for the whites which I max out at 50%. I'm keeping mostly SPS (acros and montis) with just 3 LPS and 1 softie so I am basically going after MH level lighting.

The fixture itself is DIY, and the spectral graphs came from the distributor of the chips. I have been in contact with the distributor to find out who makes the chips but he wouldn't divulge that information due to the fact that he has the phosphors for the diodes mixed especially for them. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post the name of the company who sells them as I seem to remember them being on the ban list here. But I'll PM you the website (and anyone else who is interested).

I have the option of wiring the OCW channels seperately, but right now I have them in series. Perhaps I will look at splitting them out so I can lower the red and green output but keep the blue.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by overexposed

WOW thank you for the incredibly detailed reply!! You are correct about the total wattage being over 318. I do have the LDD drivers hooked up to an Arduino controller and thus the LEDs are on a dimming schedule. All LEDs peak at 100% for at least 3 hours except for the whites which I max out at 50%. I'm keeping mostly SPS (acros and montis) with just 3 LPS and 1 softie so I am basically going after MH level lighting.

The fixture itself is DIY, and the spectral graphs came from the distributor of the chips. I have been in contact with the distributor to find out who makes the chips but he wouldn't divulge that information due to the fact that he has the phosphors for the diodes mixed especially for them. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post the name of the company who sells them as I seem to remember them being on the ban list here. But I'll PM you the website (and anyone else who is interested).

I have the option of wiring the OCW channels seperately, but right now I have them in series. Perhaps I will look at splitting them out so I can lower the red and green output but keep the blue.

If they are using the old 495nm chip they used to sell as a green on the Ocean chipo thereis no need to dim that one. But you do want to consider cutting back on the red considerably.

With a controler I would peak it around 70% power on almost everything then back off even more some of them to meet your viewing pleasure. You may want to even turn the red channel off completly then unless it looks to green in your eye.

[quantim0]

What ATI bulbs are equivalent to the Gesiemann aqua pink? I got a used 8 bulb fixture with two aqua pink, 1 purple +, 3 blue +, 2 actinic +.

[DiscusHeckel]

Having followed Big E's footsteps, I have recently replaced all my existing six T5 tubes with (1:1) ATI coral + and ATI blue + combination. Both the reflective and the fluorescent colours look absolutely superb, especially oranges, greens and blues.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by quantim0

What ATI bulbs are equivalent to the Gesiemann aqua pink? I got a used 8 bulb fixture with two aqua pink, 1 purple +, 3 blue +, 2 actinic +.

Purple plus is the closest. That's a ton of red for 8 bulbs.