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Unread 12/23/2013, 07:05 AM   #4451
carloriv
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thanks all for your inputs ,but moving back to my choice ,the quantity of bulbs are 4 and that not gonna change ( price issues) the opinion i want is the combination i have to try for a 12k or 14k color for my previous choices what color im closing to with
Bule +
coral+
Blue+
Purple+

and thanks again


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Unread 12/23/2013, 08:12 AM   #4452
rtparty
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Originally Posted by carloriv View Post
thanks all for your inputs ,but moving back to my choice ,the quantity of bulbs are 4 and that not gonna change ( price issues) the opinion i want is the combination i have to try for a 12k or 14k color for my previous choices what color im closing to with
Bule +
coral+
Blue+
Purple+

and thanks again
That combo is too pink for most people. You're better off replacing the purple plus with another coral plus.


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Current Tank Info: 50g Cadlights/Giesemann Spectra (250w Radium, 2 ATI Blue Plus, 2 ATI Actinic)/2 x Vortech MP10wQD/Skimz SN123/Eheim Compact 3000+
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Unread 12/23/2013, 08:42 AM   #4453
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Sorry didn't mean to derail your question. Just a funny observation. I'd really consider not running the purple plus bulb in that config. I ran that exact proposed combo for about 6 months. It's not terrible looking, but it is unnecessarily heavy in the red spectrum. My overall colors improved greatly and algae growth decreased almost immediately when I removed the purple + and replaced it with a 3rd blue+. If you're wanting lower light stuff I'd agree with the 2 blue+, coral+, actinic. Replace the actinic with a second coral+ if you want a bit more high nanometer par and white look.

After using it and closely looking at its average spectrograph on ATIs website, it seems the purple+ bulb is best used as a stand alone "white" bulb amongst blues in a 4 bulb config, or one bulb to supplement the red spectrum in a 6-8 bulb fixture that is heavy handed in the blues. Doesn't seem to be as functional by taking up an entire 1/4 of the light options on a fixture


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Unread 12/23/2013, 01:02 PM   #4454
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Originally Posted by Bpb View Post
Sorry didn't mean to derail your question. Just a funny observation. I'd really consider not running the purple plus bulb in that config. I ran that exact proposed combo for about 6 months. It's not terrible looking, but it is unnecessarily heavy in the red spectrum. My overall colors improved greatly and algae growth decreased almost immediately when I removed the purple + and replaced it with a 3rd blue+. If you're wanting lower light stuff I'd agree with the 2 blue+, coral+, actinic. Replace the actinic with a second coral+ if you want a bit more high nanometer par and white look.
I could not agree with you more here. The Purple plus was a much more useful bulb before the Coral Plus came out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bpb View Post
After using it and closely looking at its average spectrograph on ATIs website, it seems the purple+ bulb is best used as a stand alone "white" bulb amongst blues in a 4 bulb config, or one bulb to supplement the red spectrum in a 6-8 bulb fixture that is heavy handed in the blues. Doesn't seem to be as functional by taking up an entire 1/4 of the light options on a fixture
I personaly do not rely on any manufacturers spectrum graphs. In the past on some manufactureres I have found that they were selling two different bulbs but listing the same same spectrum for both. Onder the legal truth in advertising laws they both fell withiin the legal range of for this spectrum since there is such a broad legal definition of what is legal when it comes to both spectrums and K temperature reporting.

As far as the purple being used as a full spectrum bulb I will puit a thumbs down for that. A full spectrum bulb should look basicly white and the purple plus bulb looks virtualy purple. It has a strong blue and red element to it but does not have a strong green element to it.

If you want a tank that is brighter than with two coral plus bulbs then a combination of the purple plus with an aqua blue special works very well. The aqua ble special is a neart full spectrum bulb but lacks the red. The purple plus adds that red to balance out the spectrum.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/23/2013, 01:20 PM   #4455
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Don't want a wall 'o quotes. You do have a valid point about the trustworthiness of a manufacturers graph. While it's not guaranteed, ATI has been a pretty respected manufacturer, so even if taken with a grain of salt, it's still an ok loose reference. What surprised me most about the purple plus bulb is that it's graph looks nearly identical to the coral+, just with a 0.5 unit bump higher on the red. Still had near identical blue, UV, an green peaks. I found that odd. I didn't think to recommend an aquablue special and purple+. That'll be close to the look of two coral+. I just haven't ever been a fan of the aquablue special bulb. Never looked that great in person for me, and in most pictures.


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Unread 12/23/2013, 02:02 PM   #4456
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I don't push ATI because I got one to review. I push ATI because they are the best out there. Nothing else even comes close.

And FYI, I paid for my fixture. You really are a piece of work.
From your initial comments on receiving the fixture for your 20 gallon tank it appeared as though ATI sent it to you for eveluation. If I improperly assumed this I'm very sorry.

For over 20 years I had worked with various manufacturers in new product development and evaluation. Every one I worked for had me sign a confidentuality statement and every time we semnnt out products for evaluation we also had the evaluator sign statements of confidentuality before hand. As I thought you received this light for evaluation I only assumed you signed a simular statement.

Yes I will agree ATI is ne of the best manufacturers out there for T-5 fixtures. I believe this especialy true for the larger tanks of 75 gallons or more. However I also believe that there are other fixtures out there that are much more economical to run for the smaller tanks especaily this that are not very tall like 16" or less in height.

As a prime example I was using much lower cost 4 and 6 tube fixtures on my 40 gallon breeder tanks that I was using as frag tanks. Because of the vheaper reflector dexign I was able to place them 3 to 4 inches above the water line and get PAR readings at the substrate in the 300 plus range with 4 tubes. For me to go with an ATI fixture I would be spending about 50% more on the fixture and have to raise it to around 8" or more above the water line to get the same PAR and light spread. In my case this would be impractical As I have tanks stacked one above another for space savings.

As far as the bulbs themselves are concerned. If yur going to a single manufacturer they are probably the best T-5 bulbs. However this does not mean other brands like GE, KZ and others are garbage. Some examples:

GE6,500K is the most powerful full spectrum bulb out there. The thing is unless you have like a bright tank it is perhaps too powerful . It do think it works great in a 8 bulb fixture. However it does need some added red (purple plus) to complement it.

Korallen Zucht Super Blue is a fantastic blue bulb. The spectrums peak at both 420nm and 460nm compared to the ATI blue that is advertised with simular peaks. However if the two bulbs are put next to each other in a fixture you can see the ATI looks slightly bluregreen compared to the KZ looking slightly blueviolet. The big drawback it the higher price of the KZ bulbs.

Giesmans Aqua pink and KZ's Fuji Purple are very comparable to the ATI Purple Plus with each having vewry slightly different color balances. I would not try and rate any ovf these superior or inferior to another.

Then there are the UV bulbs that have the Atinic White which I think is comparable to the Aqua Blue Special of ATI's and the 454 blue which is also a great blue bulb with a peak at 454 that pops the florescense colors. True that the PAR is slightly lower on these bulbs but everyone is not looking for the highest possible PAR and the further to the blue you move the less accurate most PAR meters are. Price wise the UVL's are usualy the lowest.

Mainly what I'm saying is you need to consider all brands not just one brand. A simple one size or one color fits all does not always work especialy in reef tanks with tousands of different corals out there.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/23/2013, 02:15 PM   #4457
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Dennis,

I've had probably half a dozen companies send me stuff to evaluate. I don't recommend the crap that I don't like. I did sign some stuff for others but can't speak about any of it because I didn't give the product a thumbs up. I sent the stuff back and have never heard from them since.

I value your experience and knowledge on this stuff but your attitude towards me and others has always been off-putting.

I've stated it many times before but I've run so many different bulb combos I can't even remember them all. I worked for a LFS at one point and always tried out different combos to learn what everything did.

I've been a staple to this thread since October of 2008. I understand what each bulb does and how they all work. I still love to tinker and mess around though.

Of course everything isn't one size fits all. But I don't recommend cheap crap that will break down on people. I've ran a ton of cheap fixtures over the years. The LFS I worked at loved the cheap stuff and argued all day that it was all the same.

I find ATI stuff will work on ANY tank. People upgrade tanks all the time. Buying right the first time saves a ton of money down the road. Again, that is experience talking. Not a "I heard from a friend's brother's sister in law once removed" situation.

I say to always go to 6+ bulbs if the tank allows. 4 bulb combos suck to fight with. Again, been there and done that too many times.

Thanks for your knowledge and help in here.


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Unread 12/23/2013, 03:39 PM   #4458
TropTrea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtparty View Post
I've been a staple to this thread since October of 2008. I understand what each bulb does and how they all work. I still love to tinker and mess around though..


Quote:
Originally Posted by rtparty View Post
Of course everything isn't one size fits all. But I don't recommend cheap crap that will break down on people. I've ran a ton of cheap fixtures over the years. The LFS I worked at loved the cheap stuff and argued all day that it was all the same. .
have been on various lighting treads going to to around 2000 some were realy fiulled with garbage information. And had worked in the RD as well as Quality control for a lighting manufacturer for 19 years. So I learned to be very finickile on lighting.


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Originally Posted by rtparty View Post
I find ATI stuff will work on ANY tank. People upgrade tanks all the time. Buying right the first time saves a ton of money down the road. Again, that is experience talking. Not a "I heard from a friend's brother's sister in law once removed" situation..
Having had a pet strore specializing in Aquatics I also have a very different attitude. The average customer comes in with a budget. Say he wants to have a 45 gallon reef tank and only wants to spend $1,500. Then you talk about a quality light fixture that will cost hom $1,000, add a skimmer for $300 and you only have $200 left for the rest. So you talk him into downsizing to a smaller tank where everything with decient quality can fir in his budget.

Lighting is interesting this way on reefs. Let;s take the 30" series of tanks with the bottom being a 20 gallon, then the 29 gallon and finaly the 37 gallon. He can start with the 20 gallon tank to keep initial cost down. For the 20 gallon tank you want to give him about 100 watts of light, for the 29 gallon about 145 watts and for the 37 about 185 watts if your working with all T-5's. So he can get a 4 bulb decient quality fixture for $250 for his 20 gallon tank or go up to anywhere up to $1400 for a top of the line fixture that would handle the entiore range. Your also looking at the same difference between skimmers etc so the 20 gallon could cost him anywhere between $1000 and $3000 to compoletly set up. Chances are if he wanted a larger tanks and could spend the $3,000 he would fork out the $3,100 right away and go with the 37 gallon tank.

From experience I can usderstand where the differnce with your past employeer falls. If he stocks $1,000 light fixtures he has a lot of cash tied up in something that moves very slowly. Then you have the differnece in mark up between manufacturers. I handled 3 brands of light fixtures and the more expensive ones had less of mark up compared to the cheaper ones. As an example I could sell a $200 light fixture and a $500 light fixture and my profit was virtualy the same if I sold them both at manufacturers suggest list price.


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I say to always go to 6+ bulbs if the tank allows. 4 bulb combos suck to fight with. Again, been there and done that too many times..
Prior to the Coral Plus bulb comming out I would agree with you. You could always throw in a couple atinics to reduce your PAR when you had something like a 20 gallon long tank. But today it can be much more effecient using a 4 bulb fixture.



Quote:
Originally Posted by rtparty View Post

Thanks for your knowledge and help in here.



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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/23/2013, 04:13 PM   #4459
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Originally Posted by Bpb View Post
Don't want a wall 'o quotes. You do have a valid point about the trustworthiness of a manufacturers graph. While it's not guaranteed, ATI has been a pretty respected manufacturer, so even if taken with a grain of salt, it's still an ok loose reference. What surprised me most about the purple plus bulb is that it's graph looks nearly identical to the coral+, just with a 0.5 unit bump higher on the red. Still had near identical blue, UV, an green peaks. I found that odd. I didn't think to recommend an aquablue special and purple+. That'll be close to the look of two coral+. I just haven't ever been a fan of the aquablue special bulb. Never looked that great in person for me, and in most pictures.
I think the Aqua Blue Plus with the Purple Plus is a tad brighter than 2 coral plus and much closer to 3 coral plus bulbs on a 6 or 8 bulb fixture with all the others being blue plus. However for brightness you cannot beat the GE 6,500K with a pair of purple plus to remove the green tint.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/23/2013, 09:57 PM   #4460
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Ok im setting up a frag tank 48x24x24 with mainly zoa and paly. some sps I would keep near the top. I have an 8x54w ATI sunpower fixture. I also have two 48inch 454 led strips that r 30watts each. will be mounted in front and back of ati fixture.

1. What would be the best combo of bulbs?
2. What duration would u run the 2 channels?
3. What 2 bulbs would u put in the 2 bulb channel?

I was thinking 5 blue plus and 3 coral plus
Or
5 blue plus, 2 coral plus, 1 purple plus.

What do u guys think?


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Current Tank Info: System 1... 100 gal Zoa tank I built, 30 gal Ric Yuma shroom tank, 30 gal mix tank my sons,40 gal softie tank, 40 gal nem tank, two 40 gal LPS tank. System 2... 240 gal SPS display attached 100 gal frag SPS only tank.
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Unread 12/24/2013, 12:32 AM   #4461
TropTrea
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Originally Posted by rogergolf66 View Post
Ok im setting up a frag tank 48x24x24 with mainly zoa and paly. some sps I would keep near the top. I have an 8x54w ATI sunpower fixture. I also have two 48inch 454 led strips that r 30watts each. will be mounted in front and back of ati fixture.

1. What would be the best combo of bulbs?
2. What duration would u run the 2 channels?
3. What 2 bulbs would u put in the 2 bulb channel?

I was thinking 5 blue plus and 3 coral plus
Or
5 blue plus, 2 coral plus, 1 purple plus.

What do u guys think?
With a frag tank I would be more concerned with growth than color. So in that case I would go with only 2 coral plus bulbs and the other 6 bulbs would be Blue Plus bulbs. However noting that the only corals your thinking of keeping are Zoa's and Paly's I have had better luck with these corals onder much less light than you will getting. So you want to iether put a screen between the tank and the light or position the light fairly high above the tank.

If you want to go brighter than the two coral plus bulbs then a combo of an Aqua Blue Special and a Coral plus will make things even brighter, and you will still have 6 Blue Plus bulbs for super growth.

For timing under ideal conditions you would run the 2 bulbs for 12 hours. This would assure a 50/50 light dark cycle which is the best for coral growth. A simple pair of Blue Plus bulbs is what most people run for this sysle however a few prefer a combo a bit pinker with a sipurple plus and blue plus.

As far as the timing on the other bulbs this is very touchy as different corals especialy in the zoa family have different lighting needs. Satrt with a 6 hour cycle and watch the corals closely. If you see brownng shorten the cycle, it hou need more coral growth increase the time.

Note I'm not running an ATI fixture but with 8 tubes on a 120 gallon I'm running the mid days now down to 4 1/2 hours and have not seen any decrease in growth but have noticed better color than when my period was longer.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/26/2013, 05:51 AM   #4462
rogergolf66
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Originally Posted by TropTrea View Post
With a frag tank I would be more concerned with growth than color. So in that case I would go with only 2 coral plus bulbs and the other 6 bulbs would be Blue Plus bulbs. However noting that the only corals your thinking of keeping are Zoa's and Paly's I have had better luck with these corals onder much less light than you will getting. So you want to iether put a screen between the tank and the light or position the light fairly high above the tank.

If you want to go brighter than the two coral plus bulbs then a combo of an Aqua Blue Special and a Coral plus will make things even brighter, and you will still have 6 Blue Plus bulbs for super growth.

For timing under ideal conditions you would run the 2 bulbs for 12 hours. This would assure a 50/50 light dark cycle which is the best for coral growth. A simple pair of Blue Plus bulbs is what most people run for this sysle however a few prefer a combo a bit pinker with a sipurple plus and blue plus.

As far as the timing on the other bulbs this is very touchy as different corals especialy in the zoa family have different lighting needs. Satrt with a 6 hour cycle and watch the corals closely. If you see brownng shorten the cycle, it hou need more coral growth increase the time.

Note I'm not running an ATI fixture but with 8 tubes on a 120 gallon I'm running the mid days now down to 4 1/2 hours and have not seen any decrease in growth but have noticed better color than when my period was longer.
Ok well instead of putting a shade screen could we just adjust the bulbs for lower par if u think that is to much light? What about putting 2 actinic bulbs in the fixture? Would that make u feel better on to much light? If so what ratio would u go with then?

Remember I do have some sps going in this tank but they will be at the top of the tank and the zoa, and pally will be at the bottom.

I added a purple since not as much coral plus to have some purple in it, or would u go 1 actinic? Or is there a reason why screen would be better then actinic?

2 actinic, 1 purple, 1 coral plus 4 blue plus?

Roger


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Current Tank Info: System 1... 100 gal Zoa tank I built, 30 gal Ric Yuma shroom tank, 30 gal mix tank my sons,40 gal softie tank, 40 gal nem tank, two 40 gal LPS tank. System 2... 240 gal SPS display attached 100 gal frag SPS only tank.
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Unread 12/26/2013, 08:02 AM   #4463
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I could not agree with you more here. The Purple plus was a much more useful bulb before the Coral Plus came out.







I personaly do not rely on any manufacturers spectrum graphs. In the past on some manufactureres I have found that they were selling two different bulbs but listing the same same spectrum for both. Onder the legal truth in advertising laws they both fell withiin the legal range of for this spectrum since there is such a broad legal definition of what is legal when it comes to both spectrums and K temperature reporting.



As far as the purple being used as a full spectrum bulb I will puit a thumbs down for that. A full spectrum bulb should look basicly white and the purple plus bulb looks virtualy purple. It has a strong blue and red element to it but does not have a strong green element to it.



If you want a tank that is brighter than with two coral plus bulbs then a combination of the purple plus with an aqua blue special works very well. The aqua ble special is a neart full spectrum bulb but lacks the red. The purple plus adds that red to balance out the spectrum.

I finally settled on my new 8 bulb combo after ordering several extra bulbs to play with different spectrums . I changed from an old combo of 5 blue plus, 1 purple plus, 1 coral plus, and 1 GE 6500. I wanted to go bluer but still bright.

I surprisingly did not like 5 blue plus, 2 coral plus, and 1 purple plus. It looked flat to me and my tatse.

I then tried 4 blue plus, 1 purple plus, 1 coral plus, 1 aqua blue special, and 1 ATI actinic. Liked it better but not quite there. Seemed a bit too white and missing.....something.

I have settled on 4 blue plus, 2 purple plus, 1 aqua blue special, and 1 ATI actinic. The look is blue enough for me and still bright. Coral color is also represented well. I agree that the aqua blue special seems to need a big red boost and my tank looks much better when using the 2 purple plus instead of including a coral plus in the mix. This surprised me as I do like the coral plus bulb but personally did not with the aqua blue special. Some may not like the inclusion of the actinic in the mix instead of another blue plus but I am testing it out, even with a TEK fixture. Growth has not been an issue for me and I even need to darken coral pigment on some pieces.

Before settling on my final combo, I tried each of them for several days to let my eyes adjust to the look and not be shocked into not liking the initial change.

Joe


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Unread 12/26/2013, 11:22 AM   #4464
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Ok well instead of putting a shade screen could we just adjust the bulbs for lower par if u think that is to much light? What about putting 2 actinic bulbs in the fixture? Would that make u feel better on to much light? If so what ratio would u go with then?

Remember I do have some sps going in this tank but they will be at the top of the tank and the zoa, and pally will be at the bottom.

I added a purple since not as much coral plus to have some purple in it, or would u go 1 actinic? Or is there a reason why screen would be better then actinic?

2 actinic, 1 purple, 1 coral plus 4 blue plus?

Roger
While I have niot experienced it myself I have read several articles on where excessive atinic light (420nm and shorter) can cause burning in some corals. I stoped using atinic Bulbs many years ago when I switched to the Blue Plus Bulbs.

I do not know what your overhead space is but yur better off raising the lights to reduce the total amount. Another option you may want to consider is sumply using the six bulb circuit and not turn on the other two bulbs.

Yhe issue with running dimmable T-5's is a very touchy situation. When I worked in quality control for florescent lighting some of the things we tested for was operation under reduced power. Between differnet bulbs we saw some drasticly different results. But all the ones we had a shift in the spectrum to some extent. With slight reduction of power we did see slight gains in the live of the bulbs though. I personlay would not recommend dimming unless I was able to study with a spectrum anylizer the specific bulb that was being dimmed.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/26/2013, 11:32 AM   #4465
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I have settled on 4 blue plus, 2 purple plus, 1 aqua blue special, and 1 ATI actinic. The look is blue enough for me and still bright. Coral color is also represented well. I agree that the aqua blue special seems to need a big red boost and my tank looks much better when using the 2 purple plus instead of including a coral plus in the mix. This surprised me as I do like the coral plus bulb but personally did not with the aqua blue special. Some may not like the inclusion of the actinic in the mix instead of another blue plus but I am testing it out, even with a TEK fixture. Growth has not been an issue for me and I even need to darken coral pigment on some pieces.

Before settling on my final combo, I tried each of them for several days to let my eyes adjust to the look and not be shocked into not liking the initial change.

Joe
Yes I will agree that a Blue Plus and Aqua blue Special combination lacks the red. It is a lot of personal color choice how much red needs be added with the use of bulbs like the purple plus, ot the Kiji Purple. I poerfer to keep it to a minimium as excessive red can cause issues as well.

The big thing is you have enough Blue Light to keep your corals happy, and that the overall color balance is making you happy. I like your idea of letting your eye adjust to a color change and not just popping something in and saying I don't like it. I poersonaly have made changes and not liked it because it was a drastic change but after a few days started loving it.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/26/2013, 11:41 AM   #4466
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While I have niot experienced it myself I have read several articles on where excessive atinic light (420nm and shorter) can cause burning in some corals. I stoped using atinic Bulbs many years ago when I switched to the Blue Plus Bulbs.

I do not know what your overhead space is but yur better off raising the lights to reduce the total amount. Another option you may want to consider is sumply using the six bulb circuit and not turn on the other two bulbs.

Yhe issue with running dimmable T-5's is a very touchy situation. When I worked in quality control for florescent lighting some of the things we tested for was operation under reduced power. Between differnet bulbs we saw some drasticly different results. But all the ones we had a shift in the spectrum to some extent. With slight reduction of power we did see slight gains in the live of the bulbs though. I personlay would not recommend dimming unless I was able to study with a spectrum anylizer the specific bulb that was being dimmed.
Ok so what hight would u recommend I run this fixture at over 120 gal 24 deep?


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Unread 12/26/2013, 12:04 PM   #4467
TropTrea
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Ok so what hight would u recommend I run this fixture at over 120 gal 24 deep?
If your keeping your LED strips going I would start with about 15" above the water line. If your not using the LED strips you vcan go with about 12" above. Watch your corals very carefully it you wee then bleaching then imediatly raise the lights an added 3". If everything is looking healthy after 2 weeks and you want more growth then drop them one inch max at a time.

Zoos are very touchy when it comes to light. I love them but have a hard time with them. It seemjs to me some varieties simply hate all the light I have on my tank and some seem to want more. However some people told me my zoo problems could be chemical war fair in the tank.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/27/2013, 04:38 PM   #4468
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Hi guys I have a T5 question! I currently run a 36" MH fixture that is 2 150watt mh and 4 T5's I like the fixture but have the chance to pick up an 36" 8 bulb T5 aquaticlife with timer I'm wondering if it would be better for my 65gal 36x19x24 tank? Thanks in advance!


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Unread 12/27/2013, 08:04 PM   #4469
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Originally Posted by carloriv View Post
thanks all for your inputs ,but moving back to my choice ,the quantity of bulbs are 4 and that not gonna change ( price issues) the opinion i want is the combination i have to try for a 12k or 14k color for my previous choices what color im closing to with
Bule +
coral+
Blue+
Purple+

and thanks again
I've been running this combo for the past year. It is quite red looking, and I won't be using this combo again.

I'm thinking of replacing the purple plus with either an Aquablue or another coral+. I'd love to try the GE 6,500K, but they're not available locally.


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Unread 12/27/2013, 10:34 PM   #4470
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Ready to replace the bulbs in my AquaticLife T5 Quad fixture. What bulbs would you recommend? I was thinking (2) Blue+, (1) Aquablue Special, and (1) Actinic White. Would a Coral Plus be better than the Actinic White? I have LPS and some softies in a 65 gallon. Look forward to your reply.


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Unread 12/27/2013, 11:33 PM   #4471
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Ready to replace the bulbs in my AquaticLife T5 Quad fixture. What bulbs would you recommend? I was thinking (2) Blue+, (1) Aquablue Special, and (1) Actinic White. Would a Coral Plus be better than the Actinic White? I have LPS and some softies in a 65 gallon. Look forward to your reply.
I would think the Aqua Blue Special would be to white in a 4 bulb fixture for most people. And the so called Atinic White in combination with any other fuller spectrum bulb would also add to the whiteness. This only leaves you two bulbs to handle the blue end of your spectrum.

I would recommend a combination using the ATI Blue Plus or KZ's Super Blue with either one or two Coral Plus bulbs dependent on how white you want to go. The nice thing with the coral plus is that it is 1/2 a Blue Plus plus adds a little full spectrum to whiten things up.


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/27/2013, 11:41 PM   #4472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdm2476 View Post
Hi guys I have a T5 question! I currently run a 36" MH fixture that is 2 150watt mh and 4 T5's I like the fixture but have the chance to pick up an 36" 8 bulb T5 aquaticlife with timer I'm wondering if it would be better for my 65gal 36x19x24 tank? Thanks in advance!
I made the switch about 8 years ago. Prior I was running 2 400 Watt MH's plus 4 65 Watt Compacts for a total of over 100Watts of power. Then I switched to 8 54 Watt T-5's with only 432 Watts of lighting. The wife noticed an improvement in the electric bill right away and my corals actualy started improving.

The bulb combination I love for the six bulb combo is
1 GE 6,500K
2 ATI Purple Plus
5 ATI Blue Plus Bulbs


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Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons
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Unread 12/28/2013, 12:54 AM   #4473
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Thanks. Also when swapping out the bulbs do I have to change my normal lighting schedule and slowly acclimate my corals to the new bulbs?


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Unread 12/28/2013, 12:45 PM   #4474
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I have a question for you guys. I just bought a used 8x54w powermodule for a steal of a deal.. The unit is in great shape except the reflectors are hurting.

I quickly polished the front one and it really didn't do much to it other than make the discoloration shiny lol. My question is on the discoloration of the metal. It seems like almost all of them have a green hue to them and others have splotches of red. Will they change the spectrum of the light by adding a green or red hue to it?

He mentioned someone tried to help him by cleaning them and ruined the finish. My other question is it seems to be a Chrome coating vs what I thought was just polished aluminum. Does anybody know if that's the case? If they are just polished I know I can with a little elbow grease and power tools get them back as they are in perfect shape other than the coating.

I'm just exploring all the options before I drop $200 on new ones from Reefgeek. I'm not in a rush to get it on as my sunpower is still on the tank..

Here's a pic for reference. And on a side note this thing is soooooo much heavier than my 6x39w sunpower it's probably double hoping my brackets will hold it lol.




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Unread 12/28/2013, 01:42 PM   #4475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TropTrea View Post
I made the switch about 8 years ago. Prior I was running 2 400 Watt MH's plus 4 65 Watt Compacts for a total of over 100Watts of power. Then I switched to 8 54 Watt T-5's with only 432 Watts of lighting. The wife noticed an improvement in the electric bill right away and my corals actualy started improving.



The bulb combination I love for the six bulb combo is

1 GE 6,500K

2 ATI Purple Plus

5 ATI Blue Plus Bulbs

Math seems off


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