Return Pump Question- Need HELP - Page 2

AZDesertRat · 03/29/2007, 09:03 PM

With both drilled holes in the return line and with returns just slightly under the surface you will get a certain amount of water back down in the sump in the event of a power outage. That's why it is important to always keep room in your sump at all times an never fill it past that point you have determined is the worst possible backflow.
If your tank is not drilled with bulkheads installed then you use PVC and elbows to go up and over the rear of the tank and slightly below the surface where it exits. When power goes off water will backsiphon only until the return outlet is exposed to atmosphere and the siphon stops due to sucking air. If you decide you want deeper returns for some reason then you have to rely on either having a huge sump capable of holding much more water from the backsiphonage or you drill small maybe 1/8" holes in the return line again just below the waters surface. Multiple holes are better. The disadvantage to this method is you must always keep the holes clean and try to keep snails and algae away from them. We all know that's not always possible so its a less desirable way to stop backflows. A third option is check valves but valves fail especially in less than pristine water conditions. We know you have to clean the glass off every few days or it gets a build up and the inside of the check valve is no exception to this. As a wastewater treatment plant operator I liken my reef to a WW treatment plant. There are all sorts of slimes and algaes growing inside our tanks as a normal part of the nitrate removal process whether we like it or not. These things get on the flappers and seats of check valves and there is almost nothing you can do about it. Clean it today and there is no guarantee there is not a flake of food or a grain of sand on the valve seat tonight, its not worth the risk to depend on a check valve if you don't have to.

fishgirl7 · 03/30/2007, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by forsaken541
I have this exact setup and here is what I use and have NEVER had an overflow problem. first and foremost do not use the aqualifter pump that comes with these owerflows. A Maxi-Jet 1200 placed right next to the overflow with an airline tubing running from the overflow box to the air intake port on the PH will keep your overflow box working perfectly and at full capacity, just make sure to clean the input screen to keep it clog free. I use a Mag 7 pump from my sump to the tank that runs up over the side of the tank. make sure to frill a hole in the return line just below the water line so that you have a siphon break if the power goes off. This setup has worked without fail for three and a half years now.
Erik

i got a ton of air bubbles in the main tank like that so i took a penguin 660 and ran it into my sump to diffuse the bubbles - i HATE bubbles .

03/29/2007, 09:03 PM	#26
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	With both drilled holes in the return line and with returns just slightly under the surface you will get a certain amount of water back down in the sump in the event of a power outage. That's why it is important to always keep room in your sump at all times an never fill it past that point you have determined is the worst possible backflow. If your tank is not drilled with bulkheads installed then you use PVC and elbows to go up and over the rear of the tank and slightly below the surface where it exits. When power goes off water will backsiphon only until the return outlet is exposed to atmosphere and the siphon stops due to sucking air. If you decide you want deeper returns for some reason then you have to rely on either having a huge sump capable of holding much more water from the backsiphonage or you drill small maybe 1/8" holes in the return line again just below the waters surface. Multiple holes are better. The disadvantage to this method is you must always keep the holes clean and try to keep snails and algae away from them. We all know that's not always possible so its a less desirable way to stop backflows. A third option is check valves but valves fail especially in less than pristine water conditions. We know you have to clean the glass off every few days or it gets a build up and the inside of the check valve is no exception to this. As a wastewater treatment plant operator I liken my reef to a WW treatment plant. There are all sorts of slimes and algaes growing inside our tanks as a normal part of the nitrate removal process whether we like it or not. These things get on the flappers and seats of check valves and there is almost nothing you can do about it. Clean it today and there is no guarantee there is not a flake of food or a grain of sand on the valve seat tonight, its not worth the risk to depend on a check valve if you don't have to.