Nooo.. look what the tank maitenence guy did!! - Page 2

A.T.T.R · 05/22/2007, 09:01 PM

the real problom is.. if he filled it with water then added salt. he just killed your Lr

AndyB4784 · 05/22/2007, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by A.T.T.R
the real problom is.. if he filled it with water then added salt. he just killed your Lr

Bonebrake · 05/22/2007, 09:32 PM

Test the TDS of your tap water before you do anything drastic. If it is less than 100 ppm don't worry about it if all you're doing is cycling with it. Most people do a large water change at the end of a cycle anyway.

HBtank · 05/22/2007, 10:19 PM

^^^ lol at less than 100 TDS in HB.

Anyways, I would not be using that guy anymore...

Bonebrake · 05/22/2007, 10:26 PM

I'm not too familiar with California being an East Coaster... Is that an extremely urban area? I know you'd be lucky to keep anything alive in Philadelphia on our tap water. It runs anywhere from 200-400 ppm and God only knows what kind of heavy metals, nitrate, ammonia, and other junk is in there!

snulma1 · 05/22/2007, 10:46 PM

I don't think the using of tap water is as big an issue as you think. Most LFS use tap water for their tanks. They just use a conditioner to treat it. Did he do that at least?

NinaStarr · 05/23/2007, 02:23 AM

A.T.T.R, no I added the Lr 2 days after he filled the tank, sorry for the confusion.

Snulma no treatment, just plain old Huntington Beach hose water.

Bonebrake, Huntington Beach isn't that urban of an area compared to Philly. But from my understanding pretty much all of california shares its water sources, because we dont really have any natural sources. I doubt the tap water here has a small amount of tds. I'll test it this weekend.

bluetmax · 05/23/2007, 06:15 AM

My TDS meter reads 13 going into the R.O. unit. This doesn't seem like a big deal, but when I tested the water it contained copper. I would call the guy personally and ask how it was done. If it was indeed tap water I would drain it. Its going to be a pain, but better safe than sorry IMO.

old95er · 05/23/2007, 07:10 AM

have you ever seen the filters from the RO/DI when you change them?? They are full of all sorts of crud that you do not want in the water, drinking or Reef.

I would mix up new water as quickly as possible with RO/DI. Start with the right water and the rest of the tank will be much easier to deal with.

05/22/2007, 09:01 PM	#26
A.T.T.R Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: ft lauderdale Posts: 2,729	the real problom is.. if he filled it with water then added salt. he just killed your Lr __________________ Chris Addicted to the Reef- Current Tank Info: Starting a 20g

05/22/2007, 10:19 PM	#29
HBtank Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 2,957	^^^ lol at less than 100 TDS in HB. Anyways, I would not be using that guy anymore... __________________ 80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia! Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA

05/23/2007, 06:15 AM	#33
bluetmax Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mississippi Posts: 243	My TDS meter reads 13 going into the R.O. unit. This doesn't seem like a big deal, but when I tested the water it contained copper. I would call the guy personally and ask how it was done. If it was indeed tap water I would drain it. Its going to be a pain, but better safe than sorry IMO. __________________ Dustin bluetmax@aol.com Current Tank Info: 60 Gallon SPS dominated mixed reef; 55 Gallon FOWLR; 20 Gallon Mixed Reef; 20 Gallon FOWLR; 10 gallon Mixed Reef

05/23/2007, 07:10 AM	#34
old95er Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Connecticut Posts: 462	have you ever seen the filters from the RO/DI when you change them?? They are full of all sorts of crud that you do not want in the water, drinking or Reef. I would mix up new water as quickly as possible with RO/DI. Start with the right water and the rest of the tank will be much easier to deal with. __________________ Click the red house. . .check out the new 120. . .tell me what you think! Current Tank Info: 120. . .lumenarc stealth x 2, 10k Ushio DE 250w, DIY sump, mag18 return, with refugium,AquaC EV180 with Mag7, Dart /OM 4 way CL, JBJ 1/10hp Chiller, Fishbowl Innovations Moonlightsx2, Oceanus Poseidon ATO fr RO/DI, ozotech poseidon

05/22/2007, 09:32 PM	#28
Bonebrake Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Danville, PA Posts: 519	Test the TDS of your tap water before you do anything drastic. If it is less than 100 ppm don't worry about it if all you're doing is cycling with it. Most people do a large water change at the end of a cycle anyway.

05/22/2007, 10:26 PM	#30
Bonebrake Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Danville, PA Posts: 519	I'm not too familiar with California being an East Coaster... Is that an extremely urban area? I know you'd be lucky to keep anything alive in Philadelphia on our tap water. It runs anywhere from 200-400 ppm and God only knows what kind of heavy metals, nitrate, ammonia, and other junk is in there!

05/22/2007, 10:46 PM	#31
snulma1 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: New York, NY Posts: 2,281	I don't think the using of tap water is as big an issue as you think. Most LFS use tap water for their tanks. They just use a conditioner to treat it. Did he do that at least?

05/23/2007, 02:23 AM	#32
NinaStarr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Orange County & Los Angeles, California Posts: 53	A.T.T.R, no I added the Lr 2 days after he filled the tank, sorry for the confusion. Snulma no treatment, just plain old Huntington Beach hose water. Bonebrake, Huntington Beach isn't that urban of an area compared to Philly. But from my understanding pretty much all of california shares its water sources, because we dont really have any natural sources. I doubt the tap water here has a small amount of tds. I'll test it this weekend.