What to feed...acropora frag

[newclean]

I installed my new (used) 400 watt mh fixture above my 30 gal last night. Lights on, and here are some pics.

The light is 14 inches off the water. I will lower the light 1 inch per week, until it is in a place that I like (8-12" off the water). The photoperiod today is only 4 hours and I will be increasing approx 15 min each day (two notches on the timer).

Sanjay says that this bulb with my magnetic ballast will produce 115 par


I took the shelf out and put the acropora frag in the corner...One day he will bask right under the lamp. I will inch him closer weekly.


Full tank shot with the window shades open. Overkill, I wouldn't have it any other way!

That is my dog, Harley, she is 11 years young and a wonderful companion.

So, I'm juggling 3 acclimation techniques: photoperiod, height above water, and the position of the acro frag. Does anyone have advice about using these techniques in a certain order? I was thinking that I might want to lower the light towards the water before I increase photoperiod or move the frag, because the height of the light will, IMO cause the most shock, and if the frag is out of the beam while I lower the light then the shock could be reduced...do you buy that? At least the sun will stay constant.

Thank you all!
Carson

[captainobvious]

Do a google search for the program called irfanview
Its a freeware fprogram and allows you to do many things with your photos, including shrinking size and chaging dimensions. Its a great tool

Originally posted by newclean
Working on the pics...Any tips for creating a good compression with minimal loss quality? I am using photoshop but its really hard to get the file under 50k so I can post it here. I have to cut the resolution down to avatar and cell phone wallpaper sizes, so im not pleased to show you fuzzy closeups. Maybe photoshop hates zoanthids. Let me try the other shots...so this isnt working. I will look into buying some more bandwidth, if it isnt too much.

[newclean]

Thank you, captain. I am using Ulead Smart Saver 3.0 trial for the next 12 days. These pics are taken with a cell phone though. I will use the freeware after the trial expires. Also, I will get my camera charger within the week...look for quality to improve.

Carson

[Aquarist007]

lowering the light will increase the intensity and depth of pentration of the light. Increasing the photoperiod will just increase the photosythetic time for all inhabitants--including algae

IMO is more important to acclimatize the coral to the strength of light that is getting rather then getting more time for photosynthesis esp when you know now that they feed from the water also---so I would go with lowering the light first and then lengthing the photoperiod
That's just my way--I am sure others would argue another

[plyr58]

I think that the concern with feeding Acropora species is misplaced. If anything, these species to best in environments devoid of Phosphates and nitrates, and it is frankly impossible to prevent these fom entering your tank when you are attempting to heavily feed your coral. Instead, feed the fish a mix of healthy frozen food rinsed in RO to remove anything in the water that it was frozen in and feed your fish. The coral will get the leftovers. My acros do great with very little, if any, targeted feeding.

[newclean]

IMO is more important to acclimatize the coral to the strength of light that is getting rather then getting more time for photosynthesis esp when you know now that they feed from the water also---so I would go with lowering the light first and then lengthing the photoperiod

I agree. I will eliminate the third acclimation type of moving the coral in the tank. Tonight I will move the acro frag to its FINAL position in the tank, that way I don't create unnecessary stress on the animal.

I think that the concern with feeding Acropora species is misplaced. If anything, these species to best in environments devoid of Phosphates and nitrates, and it is frankly impossible to prevent these fom entering your tank when you are attempting to heavily feed your coral. Instead, feed the fish a mix of healthy frozen food rinsed in RO to remove anything in the water that it was frozen in and feed your fish. The coral will get the leftovers. My acros do great with very little, if any, targeted feeding.

I also agree here too. Yesterday I met the owner of a LFS at his store to buy some used lights from him. His shop was closed, but he made a special trip. He keeps acros and he said he never feeds them, he just feeds the fish and gives the acros plenty of light. His acros are just as beautiful as the pics we drool over on the net. He also frags them and every single polyp in his tank is out and brightly colored. So, I am convinced that daily feeding is not needed and later when I have a well established fuge, exploding with microcrustaceans, I will not need to feed at all. For now, I'll give cyclopeez to the tank 3 or 4 times a week (every other day).

Carson

[newclean]

I updated the aquascape in my tank. Since the light is 400 watt and I have a 15" deep tank, I suppose that the acropora will be right at home near the bottom and directly under the light. I had to remove about half of the live rock to accommodate. The light is 9 1/2" from the water and the photoperiod is being increased by about 30 min each day. There are 8 more days left to full acclimation at this rate...it has been 4 days. In 4 days I lowered the light from 14" to 9 1/2" and increased the photoperiod 1 1/2 hours.


I read on drs foster smith about their recommended acclimation procedure. They say to cut the photoperiod by 1/4 and start the coral at the bottom of the tank. Then inch the coral to its final position and afterwards increase the photoperiod...all should take about 2 weeks.

One thing to note is the bleaching that has taken place on the tips of the coral. The bleaching began when I raised the frag onto the shelf with the pc lights (192w odysseya.) The coral seems to be gaining some color, but it could be my imagination...I stare at it so much.

I will continue to update this thread with pics to see the coral color up completely. I will post 4 or 6 days worth of color up pics combined into one picture, so I don't run out of space on RC.

Thanks,
Carson

[Aquarist007]

Originally posted by newclean
I updated the aquascape in my tank. Since the light is 400 watt and I have a 15" deep tank, I suppose that the acropora will be right at home near the bottom and directly under the light. I had to remove about half of the live rock to accommodate. The light is 9 1/2" from the water and the photoperiod is being increased by about 30 min each day. There are 8 more days left to full acclimation at this rate...it has been 4 days. In 4 days I lowered the light from 14" to 9 1/2" and increased the photoperiod 1 1/2 hours.


I read on drs foster smith about their recommended acclimation procedure. They say to cut the photoperiod by 1/4 and start the coral at the bottom of the tank. Then inch the coral to its final position and afterwards increase the photoperiod...all should take about 2 weeks.

One thing to note is the bleaching that has taken place on the tips of the coral. The bleaching began when I raised the frag onto the shelf with the pc lights (192w odysseya.) The coral seems to be gaining some color, but it could be my imagination...I stare at it so much.

I will continue to update this thread with pics to see the coral color up completely. I will post 4 or 6 days worth of color up pics combined into one picture, so I don't run out of space on RC.

Thanks,
Carson

IMO its not bleaching---it is new growth on the tips

[Aquarist007]

Imo there is no set procedure with regards to time etc for acclimitazing the corals
every tank is different---you need to research your lights and tank depth and find where the lumens max out in the tank--from there you plan your acclimitization time for each specific coral you purchase

[newclean]

I used sanjay's site to work out the par (or equivalent "PPFD") for bulbs with a 400 watt magnetic ballast. Only problem is that he has only used one type of magnetic "standard" ballast and I doubt that is what I have. I need to check the brand of the ballast...It's on my list of things to do. Well, he says 104 PPFD for my xm 15000k bulbs, which is pretty high on the list and the bulbs are also inexpensive, well relatively, $60.

I want to house SPS corals only in this tank...maybe even no fish.

I will wait for about a month, maybe longer, to see where the sweetspot is for lighting this particular frag. I will steadily increase the photoperiod, because as of last night, photoperiod is the only variable left to adjust, since I lowered the lights to 9 1/2" which for some reason feels like the right light. Maybe because I have peered into so many reef tanks recently. I'll trust my instinct now, but if the coral doesn't color up or demonstrate growth in the next month then I will doubt the distance between the lamp and the water. I'm just scared that I will end up learning voodoo husbandry if I try to manipulate too many variables.

So, the frag is in his spot, and the light is in its spot, now I just add 30 min to each photoperiod and take pictures and WRITE DOWN my observations. All the while struggling to maintaining perfect water quality...sounds like a job description.

I will have the first batch of pictures in 2 to 4 days, depending how often I need to update to produce a discernible image.

[Aquarist007]

look forward to the updates

good luck

[tmz]

I agree, white tips on coral are ussually growth tips.

[newclean]

Here are pictures from the past 5 days, only 4 of them but, they show some compelling evidence of growth.

Day 4


Day 5


Day 6


Day 8


Observing for the past week, I noticed that smaller polyps were becoming visible closest to the tips. After comparing the pictures, I am confident that the acropora is healthy and growing, even though it is being acclimated to new mh now, and its photoperiod is not yet maximized.

Look at these...the same pics, just not compressed


Although, growth is obvious, and the animal is taking well to the conditions of my aquarium (which I obsess about), and the acropora is beautiful and exotic looking, he is brown. He may never color up, and that is fine, and this coral will always be my favorite. I am proud that I have the careful and reasonable mentality to succeed in the care of this coral, and others, and I will continue to do so. So, I want to maximize his color, but not at the expense of his health, if there is such a thing. Do you folks have suggestions?

BTW, any idea what kind of acropora this is?

I will only buy frags that are identified from now on....well, unless I find one that is about to die, like the one I got on Monday....his progress in also being documented with pictures...to be continued.

Thanks all,
Carson

[tmz]

It's very healthy. Color is a bit of an enigma especially since we don't know where on the reef this coral originated. SPS generate color from pigments they develop to protect them from the sun's rays. For example,blue pigments are associated with melanin, the same stuff we produce to get a tan. Additionaly, the zooxanthelae contribute to browning, since most of them are brown. In a sense the browner it is the healthier it is. I have purchased some fairly brown corals and kept them in high light and flow and in some cases after several months bingo nice color in others not.

[Aquarist007]

good job newclean--that coral is doing really well

[vr697getta]

nice set up
just one question is that a Panther Grouper and is it in your tank
i see you want to upgrade to a larger tank and thats good that fish can grow to over 1.5 feet
but it is a awesome though

[Peter Eichler]

Originally posted by newclean
I think I'm feeling it now. I will continue to feed cyclopeez and no longer phytoplankton (good thing because I left it out of the fridge last night) and supplement with other fresh frozen and dry foods. When the animals in the system mature and diversify and grow to maximize the efficient renewal of nutrients, I will feed less, and maintain an environment that is less friendly to pathogens.

Thank you all!

I'd suggest picking up some DT's oyster eggs if you really want to feed your SPS. Cyclopeeze in most cases probably has too large of a micron size to be useful for many SPS.

[newclean]

I hit the reset form button...thought it was a preview post button....so short and sweet

Peter,

I'm right on top of that...pick it up Monday.

vr697getta,

Yes. I know, I know, I know. Building 166 gal....hope he will coexist with sps.

capn_hylinur,

thanks for the kind words.

tmz,

We'll see...

TY,
C

[newclean]

When I feed cyclpeeze, both acro frags string a mucus from various polyps, and I see small clumps along the mucus string, where I suppose some of the cyclpeeze got snagged. The mucus blows off within a couple hours.
Is the animal showing a feeding response? If so, is the animal benefiting?

I have a second acro frag that was dying in the LFS tank. The frag was loose, and propped between rock cracks in the LFS tank. I super glued (gel) the base of the frag to a oyster shell.


I notice that the second frag has some completely dead tissue around its base (lower left in picture). There is just white skeleton in the dead areas.

Should I seal those by applying super glue all over them? Will the frag contract diseases through its unsealed skeleton?

Thank you,
Carson

[Aquarist007]

Originally posted by newclean
When I feed cyclpeeze, both acro frags string a mucus from various polyps, and I see small clumps along the mucus string, where I suppose some of the cyclpeeze got snagged. The mucus blows off within a couple hours.
Is the animal showing a feeding response? If so, is the animal benefiting?

I have a second acro frag that was dying in the LFS tank. The frag was loose, and propped between rock cracks in the LFS tank. I super glued (gel) the base of the frag to a oyster shell.


I notice that the second frag has some completely dead tissue around its base (lower left in picture). There is just white skeleton in the dead areas.

Should I seal those by applying super glue all over them? Will the frag contract diseases through its unsealed skeleton?

Thank you,
Carson

i would snip the dead branch off with a pair of snipping pliers--you don't want to leave dead tissue on a healthy coral

[tmz]

Natural shading as the coral grows can cause some areas to die out.or it could be stn(slow tisuue necrosis) which can become rtn (rapid tissue necrosis)Watch it closely if it starts to spread , cut it about a quarter of an inch above the death into healthy tissue and administer a lugol's or tmpc dip.

I've seen mine put out mucous nets when I stir up the detrius or when I feed. As long as you have some good flow, I don't think I'd worry. If the mucous lingers it may be come a source for infection.
I don't know for sure if the coral is feeding but it seems so.

[Aquarist007]

Originally posted by tmz
Natural shading as the coral grows can cause some areas to die out.or it could be stn(slow tisuue necrosis) which can become rtn (rapid tissue necrosis)Watch it closely if it starts to spread , cut it about a quarter of an inch above the death into healthy tissue and administer a lugol's or tmpc dip.

I've seen mine put out mucous nets when I stir up the detrius or when I feed. As long as you have some good flow, I don't think I'd worry. If the mucous lingers it may be come a source for infection.
I don't know for sure if the coral is feeding but it seems so.

what is that mucous net--defensive mechanism---I thought they relied on touching another coral for killing the competition

[newclean]

Okay, thats what I was afraid of....

I will snip it and dip it. There will be two tiny frags, and about 15% of its healthy tissue will have to be discarded.

I can use super glue or epoxy putty. Which should I use? How do I prevent the same thing from happening right where I snipped it?

Also, before I do this....What about just covering and sealing the dead tissue with super glue? Isn't this what I will do when I frag it, just on a smaller region?

Thank you very much,
Carson

[Aquarist007]

Originally posted by newclean
Okay, thats what I was afraid of....

I will snip it and dip it. There will be two tiny frags, and about 15% of its healthy tissue will have to be discarded.

I can use super glue or epoxy putty. Which should I use? How do I prevent the same thing from happening right where I snipped it?

Also, before I do this....What about just covering and sealing the dead tissue with super glue? Isn't this what I will do when I frag it, just on a smaller region?

Thank you very much,
Carson

I would just make sure I snipped below the level of necrosiss
as far as gluing the frag down--your call on expoxy or super glue
I would not add super glue etc to the wound area--why burn more good tissue
As far as placing it back in the same position--how did you acclimatize this coral in the first place?

[tmz]

Again, unless it is progressing you don't have to cut it. The way fragging sometimes prevents spreading is by getting ahead of the necrosis by cutting away good tissue which you hope is not yet infected.
I have read about using epoxy in the wild to save infected porites. A ring of expoxy is placed into good tissue ahead of the infection. I tried this once on a stylopora with success. The spread stopped wether the expoxy did that or it was coincidence is hard to prove.