Anyone Using LED Spotlights to supplement Metal Halides? - Page 2

fredknack · 03/18/2009, 01:37 AM

Thanks FishTruck for taking the time to post those beautiful and very informative pictures. Posts like that are what makes forums like this very helpful.

I agree with what you mentioned about adding lights for the sake of looks rather than just for coral growth. I am new to this but it seems like the halides should provide plenty of light for the corals and that the LEDs can then be used to adjust the color to your liking and extend the period of time that you can enjoy the tank. That is probably over simplified but I currently only have 400 watt halides and it would make a positive difference to me.

With that said if the developers of your bulbs are most concerned with a red light to grow big 'flowers' then it is worth investigating.

I do remember running across this article that mentions the 'Red Light Theory' that might be interesting:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/12/aafeature1

evilc66 · 03/18/2009, 08:54 AM

Wakeskater02, you need to rethink what you know about LEDs, because most everything you stated was wrong.

Directionality is a good thing. We take an omnidirectional light source like MH, and try to make it into a directional light source with reflectors. Why not take one step out of the process?

Also, shimmer is caused from a point source, not from "the way that sea water bends the UV light that comes from MH's". UV light is below the visible spectrum, so how would you see that? Its created from the light refracting from a point source on the surface distrubances. ANY point source of light, include LEDs and incandescant bulbs will cause shimmer.

I agree that UV is good for our corals, but it is not the only deciding factor. Photosynthetic corals rely on light in the 450nm range (blue) for the majority of their growth. There are two different chlorophylls (A and B). One reacts more to red light, one reacts more to blue light. Also, red is a long wavelength and gets filtered out sooner than blue. Thats why corals use it more. There are some benefits to UV on some corals, and UV LEDs can be added to arrays to more accurately simulate a MH light output.

GSMguy · 03/18/2009, 10:23 AM

That looks great fishtruck.

FishTruck · 04/13/2009, 08:48 PM

Well, as a quick update.... I was really getting to like the LED supplementation from the UFO.

It really looked best with all the lights on...

but... bummer the UFO LED light konked out last night. Not cheap. I am sending it back with an RMA for an exchange. Hopefully, it was a fluke and not the effect of being over saltwater. There was no splash or spray that I can see, and the fans still come on, so I am not sure what happened.

If the next one proves to be more durable, I will buy two more for the ends of the tank. If not, I may be in for a DIY project soon.

To recap, I would say that blue LEDs stand up to metal halides at a watt to watt ratio of about 1 watt LED to 4 to 8 watts metal halide. No problem.

arc eye · 04/13/2009, 08:54 PM

Thank you for the posts and reviving my thread!...................you're right though, those lights ain't cheap.

hyl768s · 04/16/2009, 04:51 PM

Your post is in violation of the terms and conditions of use of this web site and has been edited. Further violations will result in revocation of your posting privileges.

03/18/2009, 01:37 AM	#26
fredknack Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 112	Thanks FishTruck for taking the time to post those beautiful and very informative pictures. Posts like that are what makes forums like this very helpful. I agree with what you mentioned about adding lights for the sake of looks rather than just for coral growth. I am new to this but it seems like the halides should provide plenty of light for the corals and that the LEDs can then be used to adjust the color to your liking and extend the period of time that you can enjoy the tank. That is probably over simplified but I currently only have 400 watt halides and it would make a positive difference to me. With that said if the developers of your bulbs are most concerned with a red light to grow big 'flowers' then it is worth investigating. I do remember running across this article that mentions the 'Red Light Theory' that might be interesting: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/12/aafeature1 __________________ 3 years reef. 140 Gallon in-wall reef. 50 gallon planted aquarium. 12 Gallon Biocube Current Tank Info: 50 gallon planted, 140 gallon in wall reef.

03/18/2009, 10:23 AM	#28
GSMguy Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Northern New Mexico Posts: 17,420	That looks great fishtruck. __________________ Nick. Conehead. Shallow Reef club. Current Tank Info: 48"x27"x14" Envision Acrylic rimless, 6x39w ATi Sunpower, Custom ATB Deluxe Skimmer, 4x tunze nano stream,ATB flowstar 1500, ACJR, Tunze osmolator.

04/13/2009, 08:48 PM	#29
FishTruck Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 805	Well, as a quick update.... I was really getting to like the LED supplementation from the UFO. It really looked best with all the lights on... but... bummer the UFO LED light konked out last night. Not cheap. I am sending it back with an RMA for an exchange. Hopefully, it was a fluke and not the effect of being over saltwater. There was no splash or spray that I can see, and the fans still come on, so I am not sure what happened. If the next one proves to be more durable, I will buy two more for the ends of the tank. If not, I may be in for a DIY project soon. To recap, I would say that blue LEDs stand up to metal halides at a watt to watt ratio of about 1 watt LED to 4 to 8 watts metal halide. No problem. __________________ Department of Redundancy Department. Current Tank Info: Established 2009 - 300 gal acrylic mostly sps, radion LEDs

04/13/2009, 08:54 PM	#30
arc eye Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,147	Thank you for the posts and reviving my thread!...................you're right though, those lights ain't cheap. __________________ Out of hobby. Current Tank Info: Out of hobby

04/16/2009, 04:51 PM	#31
hyl768s Moved On Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 21	Your post is in violation of the terms and conditions of use of this web site and has been edited. Further violations will result in revocation of your posting privileges. Last edited by BlueCorn; 04/16/2009 at 06:53 PM.

03/18/2009, 08:54 AM	#27
evilc66 Registered Member. Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 245	Wakeskater02, you need to rethink what you know about LEDs, because most everything you stated was wrong. Directionality is a good thing. We take an omnidirectional light source like MH, and try to make it into a directional light source with reflectors. Why not take one step out of the process? Also, shimmer is caused from a point source, not from "the way that sea water bends the UV light that comes from MH's". UV light is below the visible spectrum, so how would you see that? Its created from the light refracting from a point source on the surface distrubances. ANY point source of light, include LEDs and incandescant bulbs will cause shimmer. I agree that UV is good for our corals, but it is not the only deciding factor. Photosynthetic corals rely on light in the 450nm range (blue) for the majority of their growth. There are two different chlorophylls (A and B). One reacts more to red light, one reacts more to blue light. Also, red is a long wavelength and gets filtered out sooner than blue. Thats why corals use it more. There are some benefits to UV on some corals, and UV LEDs can be added to arrays to more accurately simulate a MH light output.