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Unread 11/24/2009, 09:24 PM   #26
stevek480
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Flemington, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teesquare View Post
That is truly a localized issue...I mean that - without truly seeing your set up , it is not possible to answer that.
But I have never had anything like that happen - because I do not allow it!
Seriously - if you bracket, or attach it in a way to prevent anything like it coming out of the sump - that is the way you should always do things like that IMHO.

BTW - it can be heated with a heat gun, or filled with hot sand and flexed into position, allowed to cool - then it has a bit of "memory" for the way you have set it's shape.
T
Ok, thanks for the info. I'm really just planning right now so I just kind of have an idea of the setup in my head. Good to know about the shaping!


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Unread 11/24/2009, 09:34 PM   #27
teesquare
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: western NC
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sjames:Let's qualify these remarks - shall we?
"its not all that flexible"....If you have a 90 degree bend, and you are using 1-1/2'' flex PVC - you should plan on 16-18'' of bend radius. You can bend it quite bit tightter with application of heat - but this is an "easy" to achieve bend.

"you wont get a good glue joint" - this depends entirely on your use of the methods I describe above in this thread on how best to glue flex PVC. As well, if you plan it well, you should be able to cut, dry fit, then do most of your glueing - allow it to set/cure BEFORE you put it under stress. Make sense? good!
Look - guys - flex PVC offers too many advantages to poo-poo just because you have not studied how it's differences must be adjusted for. I mean - we are all smarter than pipe - right?
T


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Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system
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Unread 11/24/2009, 09:57 PM   #28
sjames
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: PA
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sure, its like most things, you get out of it what you put in, but I'm betting most are not plumbing picasso's and wont fill them with hot sand and other tricks to get better bends.

for me, is used it where i needed gentle bends, and made sure not to fight the factory coil set.


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Unread 11/24/2009, 10:06 PM   #29
teesquare
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Location: western NC
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I certainly understand your viewpoint. I have a very "anal-retentive" methodology that has been forced on me by having to clean up a lot of water - many times thru the years.
But if you choose to try flex -PVC - lay it out in the sun, or in a warm room for a day or so ahead of time, if you want to not fight it as much in the straight runs.
I go to the inside most coil for "pre-curved" pieces like the fellow that posted his drain might plumb into his sump. That way most of the work is done for you.
T


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Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system
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Unread 11/24/2009, 10:35 PM   #30
somdinwong
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i tries it twice and seen no benefit. i am not a master plumber so that being said the rigid stuff is easier to work with


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Unread 11/24/2009, 10:57 PM   #31
teesquare
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Location: western NC
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Nor do I consider myself a master plumber. But - I do use a calculator....
And we cannot ignore the laws of physics - right?
If your system requires several elbows, that could be eliminated via the use of flex-PVC - you get more flow, thus a greater turnover rate thru the tank. Not hard to understand...
But - if you are talking about tanks smaller than 100 gallons - maybe it is not worth it? I tend to do large systems.
It saves me time, ait is quiter, and it increses flow. It is worth it to me.
T


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Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system
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