New tank - i might be mis-informed - Page 2

Chiya · 05/22/2010, 05:25 AM

Hi,

Thanks for the comments and concern.

Floowid is right, my canister filter is my only pump.
I'd try to take a picture of the entire set up and post it up soon.

Before that, I'll try to describe it in words.

My canister filter is a Ehiem 2028 (1050 Lph or approx 280 gph)
And a hang on skimmer (rated @ 300g/h).
So far the filter is working as a pump to push the water through the chiller & skimmer.

And I also have a Koralia nano in the tank..

So the inlet of the filter is on the left front and the outlet of the skimmer is on the right back.
Koralia on left back..
I'll most probably shift the position of the filter inlet to the back once the tank finishes cycling..

Cheers,
Ryan

jchase1970 · 05/22/2010, 08:26 AM

I used a hydrometer for a long time and then people on here scared me enough that I spent the money on a refractometer and when I compare the too the hydro is always right on the money.

If you use a hydro you need to make sure of a few things.

fill the water slowly try to keep out the bubble. You will most likely get bubble in it. You have to get the bubble of the needle, this is what most people fail to do and it gives them a higher reading because it floats the needle, you can use a plastic tiewrap and slide it in beside the needle to make the bubble come off.

make sure your needle swings freely in the water, sometimes try stick when adjusting under water pressure but they seem to move freely when we swing it back and forth in the air. in the air we are using alot more force to move the needle then what it will have in the water under it's own weight.

Clean the hudro after each use. You need to rinse it out with freshwater and get all the salt off the needle and out of the hydro. so the next test wont introduce extra salt.

The main reason to have refract is that you can easy and fast check any water level. Check your tank with just a few drops of water, you don't have to put anything in the tank and risk adding something you dont want. You can check the salt level in your bag that your fish comes home in and see how off and how much acclamation you may have to do. You do have to calibrate a refractometer and they will get off a bit after awhile.

If your lfs checks water for free or for a small charge, you can keep using the hydro and take a water sample in once a month or so and have him check it just to verify your results for piece of mind. Good to do this with any meter really, that way is your readings do match you can check the device for what is wrong with it.

Chiya · 05/23/2010, 02:05 AM

Thanks JC,

I'd never have thought of the issue of bubbles in the hydrometer.

Anyway, just an update..

Nitrites level at <0.02
Nitrate at <1.0
pH at 7.50
Salinity 1.021

Am I ready for some clean up crew? Any suggestions?

My stocking list for this tank will be a couple of clowns and a fire goby..
Wanted a mandarin but after some 'extensive' reading, I'll leave mandarins to the experts..

Any hardy clowns for a beginner? I've read that maroons are very aggressive.. When can I safely put in my final tank inhabitants?

Appreciate any help and advice given.

Cheers,
Ryan

drew1 · 05/23/2010, 09:05 AM

Plastic hydrometers can have more problems than bubbles. Use them with caution - most are good, occasionally one is way off - consistantly. But refractometers need recalibration too.
Concerning whether you are ready got a CUC? You want nitrites at 0. They are still toxic to life. Usually nitrites drop to 0 pretty quickly though, so you are probably close. Maroons have a reputaton for being mean/territorial. Mine is as sweet as can be and gets along fine with everyone in the tank. Put the mandarin on the list for once the tank is mature. They aren't too hard if you have an established ecosystem in the tank. Healthy population of pods is essential. Just go slow and be willing to adapt. For the clowns try to get some that were tank raised. Their survival rate is better, plus it's better for our hobby. Have fun!

05/22/2010, 08:26 AM	#27
jchase1970 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Newburgh, Indiana Posts: 409	I used a hydrometer for a long time and then people on here scared me enough that I spent the money on a refractometer and when I compare the too the hydro is always right on the money. If you use a hydro you need to make sure of a few things. fill the water slowly try to keep out the bubble. You will most likely get bubble in it. You have to get the bubble of the needle, this is what most people fail to do and it gives them a higher reading because it floats the needle, you can use a plastic tiewrap and slide it in beside the needle to make the bubble come off. make sure your needle swings freely in the water, sometimes try stick when adjusting under water pressure but they seem to move freely when we swing it back and forth in the air. in the air we are using alot more force to move the needle then what it will have in the water under it's own weight. Clean the hudro after each use. You need to rinse it out with freshwater and get all the salt off the needle and out of the hydro. so the next test wont introduce extra salt. The main reason to have refract is that you can easy and fast check any water level. Check your tank with just a few drops of water, you don't have to put anything in the tank and risk adding something you dont want. You can check the salt level in your bag that your fish comes home in and see how off and how much acclamation you may have to do. You do have to calibrate a refractometer and they will get off a bit after awhile. If your lfs checks water for free or for a small charge, you can keep using the hydro and take a water sample in once a month or so and have him check it just to verify your results for piece of mind. Good to do this with any meter really, that way is your readings do match you can check the device for what is wrong with it. __________________ Tri-State Reef Club Serving the Indiana,Kentucky,Illinois Tri state area.

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05/22/2010, 05:25 AM	#26
Chiya Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 65	Hi, Thanks for the comments and concern. Floowid is right, my canister filter is my only pump. I'd try to take a picture of the entire set up and post it up soon. Before that, I'll try to describe it in words. My canister filter is a Ehiem 2028 (1050 Lph or approx 280 gph) And a hang on skimmer (rated @ 300g/h). So far the filter is working as a pump to push the water through the chiller & skimmer. And I also have a Koralia nano in the tank.. So the inlet of the filter is on the left front and the outlet of the skimmer is on the right back. Koralia on left back.. I'll most probably shift the position of the filter inlet to the back once the tank finishes cycling.. Cheers, Ryan

05/23/2010, 02:05 AM	#28
Chiya Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 65	Thanks JC, I'd never have thought of the issue of bubbles in the hydrometer. Anyway, just an update.. Nitrites level at <0.02 Nitrate at <1.0 pH at 7.50 Salinity 1.021 Am I ready for some clean up crew? Any suggestions? My stocking list for this tank will be a couple of clowns and a fire goby.. Wanted a mandarin but after some 'extensive' reading, I'll leave mandarins to the experts.. Any hardy clowns for a beginner? I've read that maroons are very aggressive.. When can I safely put in my final tank inhabitants? Appreciate any help and advice given. Cheers, Ryan

05/23/2010, 09:05 AM	#29
drew1 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 189	Plastic hydrometers can have more problems than bubbles. Use them with caution - most are good, occasionally one is way off - consistantly. But refractometers need recalibration too. Concerning whether you are ready got a CUC? You want nitrites at 0. They are still toxic to life. Usually nitrites drop to 0 pretty quickly though, so you are probably close. Maroons have a reputaton for being mean/territorial. Mine is as sweet as can be and gets along fine with everyone in the tank. Put the mandarin on the list for once the tank is mature. They aren't too hard if you have an established ecosystem in the tank. Healthy population of pods is essential. Just go slow and be willing to adapt. For the clowns try to get some that were tank raised. Their survival rate is better, plus it's better for our hobby. Have fun!