John's Noob ?'s thread. . .PLZ Help if BOLD - Page 2

Palting · 08/26/2010, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdSnyder

I havent ever heard of this dumping ammonia in the new tank stuff. Whats up with that???

That's old, I mean REALLY old process of starting the cycling. That was before live rock, where there was nothing live in the tank at all in the begining. I started my first saltwater tank 20 years ago, and it was old even then.

Mavrk · 08/26/2010, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palting

That's old, I mean REALLY old process of starting the cycling. That was before live rock, where there was nothing live in the tank at all in the begining. I started my first saltwater tank 20 years ago, and it was old even then.

Yeah, and yet adding a shrimp still seems to be popular advise. I think my first tank was 20 years ago also. Back then the advise was to stick a damsel fish in there to start the cycling. Wow, have I learned a lot since then!

lcs · 08/26/2010, 03:58 PM

Quote:

That was before live rock, where there was nothing live in the tank at all in the begining.

It still holds today, depending on what rock a person uses upon set up. For example, I used about 40# of MarcoRocks and 15# of live rock. I added a shrimp and took it out when the ammonia reached 2ppm - enough to give the resident bacteria on the LR something to grow on, but hopefully not enough to kill everything on it.

It would have been interesting if I hadn't added anything and see what the ammonia level would have been with the die-off that more than likely occured from the purchase of the LR to getting it into the tank.

Scuba_Steve · 08/26/2010, 04:42 PM

I have always used mostly dry rock, and a little live. Never added a shrimp, or ammonia... And I never have a problem with stocking later on because I didnt have enough bacteria survive. I used that type of advise back when I had freshwater, and IMO thats where that advise should stay. A G4 should be a decent skimmer for your tank. Just look up the various mods you can do to it to push it a little further.

tzzhc4 · 08/26/2010, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdSnyder

I havent ever heard of this dumping ammonia in the new tank stuff. Whats up with that???

The idea is to kick start the nitrogen cycle in the tank by adding a small amount of straight ammonia. It will act as food for bacteria. You can do the same by adding some food, live rock or a hardy fish (damsel or what not). Personally I use live rock.

~JSG~ · 09/01/2010, 06:50 PM

Ok I just completed my first 25% water change and my tank smells like when i go to the Aquarium lol. . .Good? Bad? anywho, my questions today are. . .in the first week of my tank i flipped over several pieces of "dead" rock that i got as a base starter for my live and before even adding the live i noticed purple algea? Corline? lol spelling? ok what does that mean? Also, I have an Oceanic Aqualight Pro Series 72", what type of corals or fish or whatever can this support, and what type of bulbs should i get if i plan on doing LPS/SPS tank if that light system will support it even? Thanks ahead of time and i look forward to hearing from all of you nice folks!

~JSG~ · 09/02/2010, 05:59 AM

Shameless bump

~JSG~ · 09/02/2010, 03:11 PM

anyone? help?

~JSG~ · 09/02/2010, 10:45 PM

So is gfo and kalkwasser required for a mixed reef tank, and well can anyone answer my previous ?'s? Thx

Hermes` · 09/03/2010, 01:27 AM

There not required but either have their benefits. GFO for removing Phosphates from the water, and Kalkwasser to raise the concentration of calcium in the water, a good thing for animals and plants that use calcium for their skeletons. The hydroxide interacts with dissolved carbon dioxide to form bicarbonate, and together with any remaining hydroxide ions, this raises the alkalinity, thereby buffering pH and inhibiting acidification.

~JSG~ · 09/03/2010, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ~JSG~

Ok I just completed my first 25% water change and my tank smells like when i go to the Aquarium lol. . .Good? Bad? anywho, my questions today are. . .in the first week of my tank i flipped over several pieces of "dead" rock that i got as a base starter for my live and before even adding the live i noticed purple algea? Corline? lol spelling? ok what does that mean? Also, I have an Oceanic Aqualight Pro Series 72", what type of corals or fish or whatever can this support, and what type of bulbs should i get if i plan on doing LPS/SPS tank if that light system will support it even? Thanks ahead of time and i look forward to hearing from all of you nice folks!

Thanks for your help Hermes', any insite on the above questions?

Milky3 · 09/03/2010, 01:24 PM

Hey jsg what part of south texas do you live

philosophile · 09/03/2010, 01:50 PM

The purple stuff is probably not coralline, unless it was always there to begin with. I'm betting its cyanobacteria. Is it slimy and can you easily rub it off? Just part of the new cycling process.

~JSG~ · 09/03/2010, 02:32 PM

Actually tried scraping it off with my fingernail and it didn't come off. I know it didn't arrive on the rock it's on b/c it was a dead bleached color dry base rock ?

~JSG~ · 09/03/2010, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Milky3

Hey jsg what part of south texas do you live

Kingsville,TX

Palting · 09/03/2010, 02:52 PM

If you flipped over the rock and noticed the purple color, that is just discoloration of the rock from sitting on the substarte or base. Certainly not coraline. BTW, you can spell it coraline or coralline, but not corline

. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coralline_algae

The oceanic 72" aqualight pro is simillar to my light. You can keep pretty much anything in there with those 3 150W MH and 8 actinics.

philosophile · 09/03/2010, 02:55 PM

coralline takes a while to grow.... I'm not sure how much growth you're seeing since we don't have pics.... If its little spots, all over, then its very possible that its coralline.

Hermes` · 09/03/2010, 02:56 PM

Is yours the 150w or the 250w version. Here's a link of someone who tested 250w bulbs. He tested color of bulbs w/ & w/o actinics, power consumption with different ballasts, Lamp heat due to ballasts, and PAR. http://cnidarianreef.com/G180/lamps.php

~JSG~ · 09/03/2010, 03:11 PM

Thanks you all, well kinda bummed that it isn't the purple stuff but glad that the lights will work out, being the 150w version I was afraid I was going to be a lil underlit

Palting · 09/03/2010, 03:18 PM

I want to make sure I am not giving you the bum steer here. I looked back on the thread and could not see it. What are your tank dimensions?

~JSG~ · 09/03/2010, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palting

I want to make sure I am not giving you the bum steer here. I looked back on the thread and could not see it. What are your tank dimensions?

Can't remember off the top of my head but length is 7ft by ~30" tall by ~30"

~JSG~ · 09/18/2010, 12:08 PM

Ok so I got an API nitrate, nitrate, and ammonia test kit. I was just looking for some input on how well this kit works or if anyone has any advice?

Palting · 09/18/2010, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ~JSG~

Can't remember off the top of my head but length is 7ft by ~30" tall by ~30"

If it's truly 30" deep, then even the 150 MH won't go that deep. You'll need 250 or even 400 w MH.

~JSG~ · 09/19/2010, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palting

If it's truly 30" deep, then even the 150 MH won't go that deep. You'll need 250 or even 400 w MH.

Well i went and took a measurement of my tank height and i found that it is actually only 24" deep

so then that means that my lights are good? IDK?

Also, I just took my readings of Nitrite, Nitrate and Ammonia and PH

PH 8.0 a little low i know

NH3/NH4= .25ppm

NO2= 0ppm

NO3= 5.0ppm

How do i fix these readings? Any suggestions ANYONE?

Palting · 09/19/2010, 05:50 PM

Yep, your lights should be fine at 24"

Nothing to fix, yet. You are still cycling, bud. Your ammonia is still being broken down, and your pH is on the low side because of the cycling producing acids. Once you finish the cyycle and start regular water changes, things should settle down and start correcting itself.

08/26/2010, 04:42 PM	#29
Scuba_Steve Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Pooler, Ga Posts: 1,342	I have always used mostly dry rock, and a little live. Never added a shrimp, or ammonia... And I never have a problem with stocking later on because I didnt have enough bacteria survive. I used that type of advise back when I had freshwater, and IMO thats where that advise should stay. A G4 should be a decent skimmer for your tank. Just look up the various mods you can do to it to push it a little further. __________________ 40g DIY AIO. DT Size is 27"x18"x17" SCA-301 skimmer, DIY ATS 4"x4" 1 cube setup, Ocean Revive 120w LED, Quiet One 3000, Jager 150w TBS Rock

09/03/2010, 01:27 AM	#35
Hermes` Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: CA Posts: 67	There not required but either have their benefits. GFO for removing Phosphates from the water, and Kalkwasser to raise the concentration of calcium in the water, a good thing for animals and plants that use calcium for their skeletons. The hydroxide interacts with dissolved carbon dioxide to form bicarbonate, and together with any remaining hydroxide ions, this raises the alkalinity, thereby buffering pH and inhibiting acidification. __________________ German... Current Tank Info: 55g Mixed, Apex, Octopus 110 recirc

09/03/2010, 02:52 PM	#41
Palting Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 6,912	If you flipped over the rock and noticed the purple color, that is just discoloration of the rock from sitting on the substarte or base. Certainly not coraline. BTW, you can spell it coraline or coralline, but not corline . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coralline_algae The oceanic 72" aqualight pro is simillar to my light. You can keep pretty much anything in there with those 3 150W MH and 8 actinics. __________________ Anything I post is just an opinion. One of many in this hobby. Believe and follow at your own risk of rapid and complete annihilation of all life in your tank :) Current Tank Info: Incept 3/2010, 150 RR, 50g sump, 20g fuge, 150w 15K MH x3, T5 actinics x8, moonlight LED x6, 1400gph return, Koralia 1400 x4, 300 g skimmer, 4 tangs, 2 mandarins, 2 perc, 6 line, 3 cardinals, 2 firefish, SPS, LPS, zoas, palys, shrooms, clam

09/03/2010, 02:56 PM	#43
Hermes` Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: CA Posts: 67	Is yours the 150w or the 250w version. Here's a link of someone who tested 250w bulbs. He tested color of bulbs w/ & w/o actinics, power consumption with different ballasts, Lamp heat due to ballasts, and PAR. http://cnidarianreef.com/G180/lamps.php __________________ German... Current Tank Info: 55g Mixed, Apex, Octopus 110 recirc

09/03/2010, 03:18 PM	#45
Palting Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 6,912	I want to make sure I am not giving you the bum steer here. I looked back on the thread and could not see it. What are your tank dimensions? __________________ Anything I post is just an opinion. One of many in this hobby. Believe and follow at your own risk of rapid and complete annihilation of all life in your tank :) Current Tank Info: Incept 3/2010, 150 RR, 50g sump, 20g fuge, 150w 15K MH x3, T5 actinics x8, moonlight LED x6, 1400gph return, Koralia 1400 x4, 300 g skimmer, 4 tangs, 2 mandarins, 2 perc, 6 line, 3 cardinals, 2 firefish, SPS, LPS, zoas, palys, shrooms, clam

09/01/2010, 06:50 PM	#31
~JSG~ Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 156	Ok I just completed my first 25% water change and my tank smells like when i go to the Aquarium lol. . .Good? Bad? anywho, my questions today are. . .in the first week of my tank i flipped over several pieces of "dead" rock that i got as a base starter for my live and before even adding the live i noticed purple algea? Corline? lol spelling? ok what does that mean? Also, I have an Oceanic Aqualight Pro Series 72", what type of corals or fish or whatever can this support, and what type of bulbs should i get if i plan on doing LPS/SPS tank if that light system will support it even? Thanks ahead of time and i look forward to hearing from all of you nice folks!

09/02/2010, 05:59 AM	#32
~JSG~ Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 156	Shameless bump

09/02/2010, 03:11 PM	#33
~JSG~ Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 156	anyone? help?

09/02/2010, 10:45 PM	#34
~JSG~ Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 156	So is gfo and kalkwasser required for a mixed reef tank, and well can anyone answer my previous ?'s? Thx

09/03/2010, 01:24 PM	#37
Milky3 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Harlingen ,Tx Posts: 148	Hey jsg what part of south texas do you live

09/03/2010, 01:50 PM	#38
philosophile Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 1,149	The purple stuff is probably not coralline, unless it was always there to begin with. I'm betting its cyanobacteria. Is it slimy and can you easily rub it off? Just part of the new cycling process.

09/03/2010, 02:32 PM	#39
~JSG~ Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 156	Actually tried scraping it off with my fingernail and it didn't come off. I know it didn't arrive on the rock it's on b/c it was a dead bleached color dry base rock ?

09/03/2010, 02:55 PM	#42
philosophile Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 1,149	coralline takes a while to grow.... I'm not sure how much growth you're seeing since we don't have pics.... If its little spots, all over, then its very possible that its coralline.

09/03/2010, 03:11 PM	#44
~JSG~ Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 156	Thanks you all, well kinda bummed that it isn't the purple stuff but glad that the lights will work out, being the 150w version I was afraid I was going to be a lil underlit

09/18/2010, 12:08 PM	#47
~JSG~ Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 156	Ok so I got an API nitrate, nitrate, and ammonia test kit. I was just looking for some input on how well this kit works or if anyone has any advice?

09/19/2010, 05:50 PM	#50
Palting Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 6,912	Yep, your lights should be fine at 24" Nothing to fix, yet. You are still cycling, bud. Your ammonia is still being broken down, and your pH is on the low side because of the cycling producing acids. Once you finish the cyycle and start regular water changes, things should settle down and start correcting itself. __________________ Anything I post is just an opinion. One of many in this hobby. Believe and follow at your own risk of rapid and complete annihilation of all life in your tank :) Current Tank Info: Incept 3/2010, 150 RR, 50g sump, 20g fuge, 150w 15K MH x3, T5 actinics x8, moonlight LED x6, 1400gph return, Koralia 1400 x4, 300 g skimmer, 4 tangs, 2 mandarins, 2 perc, 6 line, 3 cardinals, 2 firefish, SPS, LPS, zoas, palys, shrooms, clam

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