New to reefs and saltwater

[dcombs44]

Lighting is not that important for fish, but depending on coral is vital. Most coral that we keep are photosynthetic, similar to plants, but different. Corals have zooxanthellae, a type of algae living within them. These algae require light to survive, and the coral derives energy from the algae within. Certain coral need more intense light to fuel the algae.

Most live sand is probably aragonite sand. Aragonite is a calcium rich sand that is safe for aquariums. Just don't buy sand from the hardware store because you don't know what's in it and it can be high in silicates and other unwanted elements.

A powerhead or two for added flow is an excellent suggestion. Water movement will help insure that fish poo and such remain suspended in the water rather than on your sand bed. If it's in the water, then you will remove some of it with water changes and it has a better chance of being skimmed by the protein skimmer. If it's on the sand bed, it can lead to nitrate issues.

Moving a tank is a chore. Moving a small tank is less of a chore, but can still be stressful for you and the animals. Just search out advice hear prior to moving so you can be prepared and do it right.

I'll see if I can't dig up some good articles for you to read.

Try these to start:

http://www.thetipsbank.com/marine.htm (disregard watts per gallon. Outdated methodology)

http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic23945-9-1.aspx

[Floowid]

Moving a tank tends to disrupt a lot of stuff, like the sand and live rock, the stuff that is doing the bulk of your filtration. If it means just moving down the hall it may not be a really big deal, but if you say you are going to be moving 2 or 3 times over the course of a year, your tank will never truly have time to settle in and be stable. I understand the desire to have a reef tank, and to have it now... I am not trying to put you off the hobby, but with the constraints you are under (small tank, no experience, lots of moving) you have a real steep hill to climb. I have seen it before, you may be looking at a year of frustration. I guess I am just saying that you need to consider just how difficult this will be for you, and please don't let the experience sour you to what can be a very enjoyable hobby.

[bassplaya12]

I know freshwaters aren't nearly as sensitive but we've been moving those with good success. I'm assuming there's a "proper" way to move a reef tank. I know it's not good for it but it does have to be done.

[bassplaya12]

Which power head do you recommend?

Originally Posted by dcombs44

Lighting is not that important for fish, but depending on coral is vital. Most coral that we keep are photosynthetic, similar to plants, but different. Corals have zooxanthellae, a type of algae living within them. These algae require light to survive, and the coral derives energy from the algae within. Certain coral need more intense light to fuel the algae.

Most live sand is probably aragonite sand. Aragonite is a calcium rich sand that is safe for aquariums. Just don't buy sand from the hardware store because you don't know what's in it and it can be high in silicates and other unwanted elements.

A powerhead or two for added flow is an excellent suggestion. Water movement will help insure that fish poo and such remain suspended in the water rather than on your sand bed. If it's in the water, then you will remove some of it with water changes and it has a better chance of being skimmed by the protein skimmer. If it's on the sand bed, it can lead to nitrate issues.

Moving a tank is a chore. Moving a small tank is less of a chore, but can still be stressful for you and the animals. Just search out advice hear prior to moving so you can be prepared and do it right.

I'll see if I can't dig up some good articles for you to read.

Try these to start:

http://www.thetipsbank.com/marine.htm (disregard watts per gallon. Outdated methodology)

http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic23945-9-1.aspx

[dcombs44]

http://premiumaquatics.com/store/mer...de=Koralia-evo

[dcombs44]

For lighting you could do something like this:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...4&pcatid=13734

It won't allow you to keep everything, but will allow you nearly all soft and polyp corals and some LPS.

You could also do 2 of these and maybe stretch your limits a bit farther.

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...0&pcatid=16770

Price comes out about the same.

[dcombs44]

For water changes, you'll probably want to steer away from plain tap water.

There are a few different options for top-off water and water changes.

1) Water will evaporate from your tank. You will need to replace the evaporated water daily using fresh (no salt) water. RO/DI or reverse osmosis deionization filtered water is preferred. Some fish stores sell it for .20 to .50 a gallon, you can buy a filter of your own for $100-$200, you can buy jugs of distilled water from the store, or you can use a reverse osmosis machine at Wal-Mart or similar. This is typically much cleaner and safer to use in your tank than treated tap water.

2) You also need to have a salt mix available or buy premixed salt water. There are many types of salt being used. For your purposes and for a person on a budget, Instant Ocean will probably be fine. You can buy a 150 gallon bucket for $30 to $40. Fish stores will sell premixed for $1 to $5 a gallon depending on where you get it. You'll need this for your weekly water changes. If you mix your own, you'll need to mix it at least a day in advance and use a calibrated refractometer or hydrometer to be sure that the salinity is at a level of 1.026 SG or 35 ppt.

[dcombs44]

Another note I wanted to make is the issues with aquarium heaters.

They are notorious for failing. They typically fail by locking in the on position and overheating a tank. Many people here have crashed tanks because of this.

An insurance policy is to use a separate temperature controller along with your heater to shut power off to the heater if it fails.

I use a ReefKeeper Lite. Others use Ranco Controllers or other types of aquarium controllers. I didn't use one on my larger tanks, but with the smaller one, I felt that I needed that added insurance since it wouldn't take very long to overheat the tank.

[bassplaya12]

Originally Posted by dcombs44

http://premiumaquatics.com/store/mer...de=Koralia-evo

that looks like a good one. Decently priced it seems too.

Originally Posted by dcombs44

For lighting you could do something like this:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...4&pcatid=13734

It won't allow you to keep everything, but will allow you nearly all soft and polyp corals and some LPS.

You could also do 2 of these and maybe stretch your limits a bit farther.

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...0&pcatid=16770

Price comes out about the same.

There was a light someone suggested in my thread in the nano forum that seemed decent. They've had good luck with it. Cheaper too. I'll find the link.

Originally Posted by dcombs44

For water changes, you'll probably want to steer away from plain tap water.

There are a few different options for top-off water and water changes.

1) Water will evaporate from your tank. You will need to replace the evaporated water daily using fresh (no salt) water. RO/DI or reverse osmosis deionization filtered water is preferred. Some fish stores sell it for .20 to .50 a gallon, you can buy a filter of your own for $100-$200, you can buy jugs of distilled water from the store, or you can use a reverse osmosis machine at Wal-Mart or similar. This is typically much cleaner and safer to use in your tank than treated tap water.

2) You also need to have a salt mix available or buy premixed salt water. There are many types of salt being used. For your purposes and for a person on a budget, Instant Ocean will probably be fine. You can buy a 150 gallon bucket for $30 to $40. Fish stores will sell premixed for $1 to $5 a gallon depending on where you get it. You'll need this for your weekly water changes. If you mix your own, you'll need to mix it at least a day in advance and use a calibrated refractometer or hydrometer to be sure that the salinity is at a level of 1.026 SG or 35 ppt.

The tap water here is very basic, I was having a hard time keeping the ph down in my fresh water tank. Fish store near my school sells RO water for .50 a gallon. Sounds like a good route for me. So you mix with salt before you add water?

Originally Posted by dcombs44

Another note I wanted to make is the issues with aquarium heaters.

They are notorious for failing. They typically fail by locking in the on position and overheating a tank. Many people here have crashed tanks because of this.

An insurance policy is to use a separate temperature controller along with your heater to shut power off to the heater if it fails.

I use a ReefKeeper Lite. Others use Ranco Controllers or other types of aquarium controllers. I didn't use one on my larger tanks, but with the smaller one, I felt that I needed that added insurance since it wouldn't take very long to overheat the tank.

How much are ranco controllers? I've noticed with my current heater it definitely heats up too much sometimes

[bassplaya12]

Also I'm sure it's been mentioned above, but how frequently should water changes/additions be made and how much at a time?

[bassplaya12]

http://www.fishneedit.com/t5ho-24quo...quarium-l.html

this is the light btw

[travis32]

I would agree there are 3 most important (and relatively expensive in comparison to everything else in the hobby) Pieces to spend money on..

1. Skimmer-- Can be expensive, but for that small of a tank, probably a must to keep stable.

2. Lighting... If you're going reef-- corals, Lighting is as important and needs the most money.

3. Live Rock --- This can be expensive as well, but, very critical to have enough to provide sufficient biological filtration.

A word of advice... Use The INTERNET as you are now.. Craigslist, local newspapers, search for local reef clubs. All these places can get you used stuff for a LOT cheaper, that's just as good as brand new.

90% of my reef setup is used off of craigs list and local reefers upgrading or selling off old supplies. I have a 55g mixed reef I started a little over 4 months ago. I calculated my savings at approximately $800 - 900 + by buying used off of craigs list. A protein skimmer that sold locally for $299, and online for $200, I got off of craigs list in working condition for $50.00. I"m still using it 4 months later!

I got my 80+lbs of LR for between $1.00 - $2.00 lbs. Local Fish store sells for $4.89 / lb.

If budgetary concerns are a big issue. Determine your max budget for everything. (maximum being 50% more than what you plan on spending... ) Take that budget and see what you can find online. You may be able to find something bigger (and easier to keep) for less money that what You can buy new.. Case in point. Today I just picked up a 25 gallon tank, hang on filters, a bunch of supplies, basic hood, and stand for $60.00. A new 25 - 30g tank, and hood, is over $100 and doesn't include any extra supplies or the stand.

I needed it as a quarantine tank for new fish, and to treat existing fish.

Just some things to think about!

[bassplaya12]

Definitely been checking craigslist but coming up with a lot of stuff I can't necessarily used. If anybody could find a link on craigslist for a good light and or skimmer they'd be the bomb. I think I've found a good light for ~$60. Will just need some new lights in the future

[bassplaya12]

I have kind of a random question too. Those puck things that coral frags come on, how do you get them to stick to the live rock? Also will the corals move off of those onto the rock or what?

[phenom5]

You can wedge the frag plugs into holes/ in between rocks, and use a 2 part epoxy (aquamend--available at home depot, reef safe, and a heck of a lot cheaper than specialty aquarium epoxy) to help keep them in place.

Depends on the coral, but most corals will spread, and encrust the plug and the surrounding rock.

[bassplaya12]

^^ Cool thanks. I read that you're not supposed to use an aquarium that was previously used for freshwater...any truth to this? And why because of freshwater diseases?

[dcombs44]

Originally Posted by bassplaya12

The tap water here is very basic, I was having a hard time keeping the ph down in my fresh water tank. Fish store near my school sells RO water for .50 a gallon. Sounds like a good route for me. So you mix with salt before you add water?

When doing water changes, you mix the salt ahead of time and aerate for 24 hours or so, when replacing evaporated water, you don't use salt. Just use fresh RO/DI water for that.

Originally Posted by bassplaya12

How much are ranco controllers? I've noticed with my current heater it definitely heats up too much sometimes

I think you can get a basic Ranco controller for $50 or so, but not sure. Have to google it.

Originally Posted by bassplaya12

Also I'm sure it's been mentioned above, but how frequently should water changes/additions be made and how much at a time?

You need to top off with fresh water daily to make up for evaporation. You need to make a 10 to 15% water change every week to 2 weeks for the best results. If you fail to top off daily your salinity will rise as it becomes more concentrated as water evaporates.

[dcombs44]

Originally Posted by bassplaya12

http://www.fishneedit.com/t5ho-24quo...quarium-l.html

this is the light btw

Not sure that 2 T5 bulbs will be sufficient. That's a similar setup to the second one I mentioned above. Similar in price too. You'll notice that the second fixture I listed has 2 bulbs and is around $50. Same as the one you linked. I suggest buying 2 of those fixtures or 2 of the one you linked if you go with T5. The first fixture I listed is power compact. You could do ok with 1 of those fixtures, but it runs about $100. T5 is probably more energy efficient and produces less heat. Also probably a better spectrum. Somebody may have an additional opinion on that.

[dcombs44]

Originally Posted by bassplaya12

^^ Cool thanks. I read that you're not supposed to use an aquarium that was previously used for freshwater...any truth to this? And why because of freshwater diseases?

I've heard this, but not sure the reasoning myself. Never had the issue, so never researched it much.

Go to google and search for this:

using freshwater tanks site:www.reefcentral.com

or use the search function within Reef Central. You should be able to find most of the info you need about any topic. They've pretty much all been discussed at some point here.

[dcombs44]

Originally Posted by bassplaya12

Definitely been checking craigslist but coming up with a lot of stuff I can't necessarily used. If anybody could find a link on craigslist for a good light and or skimmer they'd be the bomb. I think I've found a good light for ~$60. Will just need some new lights in the future

Also, there are classified forums here on Reef Central. You can find some good deals on used equipment there as well.

[amr952]

Originally Posted by dcombs44

I've heard this, but not sure the reasoning myself. Never had the issue, so never researched it much.

Go to google and search for this:

using freshwater tanks site:www.reefcentral.com

or use the search function within Reef Central. You should be able to find most of the info you need about any topic. They've pretty much all been discussed at some point here.

I think one of the main reasons you are not supposed to use a freshwater tank for saltwater is because people use a copper medicine to treat ich right in the freshwater tank. Copper will kill coral very easily.

But I have also read many articles on here that say as long as you clean the tank very well that any amount of copper that would seep from the silicone will not really matter.

[bassplaya12]

Originally Posted by dcombs44

When doing water changes, you mix the salt ahead of time and aerate for 24 hours or so, when replacing evaporated water, you don't use salt. Just use fresh RO/DI water for that.



I think you can get a basic Ranco controller for $50 or so, but not sure. Have to google it.



You need to top off with fresh water daily to make up for evaporation. You need to make a 10 to 15% water change every week to 2 weeks for the best results. If you fail to top off daily your salinity will rise as it becomes more concentrated as water evaporates.

Cool. That answered my question completely. The salinity won't go down if you top off with non salted water?

Originally Posted by dcombs44

Not sure that 2 T5 bulbs will be sufficient. That's a similar setup to the second one I mentioned above. Similar in price too. You'll notice that the second fixture I listed has 2 bulbs and is around $50. Same as the one you linked. I suggest buying 2 of those fixtures or 2 of the one you linked if you go with T5. The first fixture I listed is power compact. You could do ok with 1 of those fixtures, but it runs about $100. T5 is probably more energy efficient and produces less heat. Also probably a better spectrum. Somebody may have an additional opinion on that.

So basically I need 4 bulbs? Apparently that company makes a 4 bulb as well. Essentially I'll have to spend $100 for a light whether it's two 2 bulb or one 4 bulb I guess hah. Heat may be an issue as we're not really supposed to have "heat lamps" at school or particular kinds of light that produce too much excess heat.

[bassplaya12]

Originally Posted by dcombs44

I've heard this, but not sure the reasoning myself. Never had the issue, so never researched it much.

Go to google and search for this:

using freshwater tanks site:www.reefcentral.com

or use the search function within Reef Central. You should be able to find most of the info you need about any topic. They've pretty much all been discussed at some point here.

I'll look into that for sure. You've used freshwater tanks and never had an issue?

Originally Posted by dcombs44

Also, there are classified forums here on Reef Central. You can find some good deals on used equipment there as well.

I'll definitely look there!

Originally Posted by amr952

I think one of the main reasons you are not supposed to use a freshwater tank for saltwater is because people use a copper medicine to treat ich right in the freshwater tank. Copper will kill coral very easily.

But I have also read many articles on here that say as long as you clean the tank very well that any amount of copper that would seep from the silicone will not really matter.

I'll ask if they ever had to treat for ich. What's the best way to clean an aquarium? I've heard vinegar and water?

[amr952]

Originally Posted by bassplaya12

I'll look into that for sure. You've used freshwater tanks and never had an issue?



I'll definitely look there!



I'll ask if they ever had to treat for ich. What's the best way to clean an aquarium? I've heard vinegar and water?

Vinegar and Water is also what I have always heard.

[bassplaya12]

Cool. We're going to a couple fish stores today so I'll make sure I ask my friend a couple questions and talk to the store guys too. I'll report back!