40g breeder build(ucf)

[sjmantis]

What type of lights are you thinking of using? I going to get that same skimmer early next year

[gbot9000]

2 coats of varnish.


1 one clear coat drying.


Also painted inside white.

[dublo8]

Ha I'm building a 40 br right now and also moving from a 20 tall. Seems like a lot of people are heading that direction. I went with 2 koralia 1400's, glass holes 700gph overflow and a rio 3100 return pump. For your sump a 20 long works really well. Your 40 is 36" wide and the 20L is 30" so you should have room for it.

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by dublo8

Ha I'm building a 40 br right now and also moving from a 20 tall. Seems like a lot of people are heading that direction. I went with 2 koralia 1400's, glass holes 700gph overflow and a rio 3100 return pump. For your sump a 20 long works really well. Your 40 is 36" wide and the 20L is 30" so you should have room for it.

Nice, do you have a build thread? There is def enough space with 20l and the reef octopus.

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by sjmantis

What type of lights are you thinking of using? I going to get that same skimmer early next year

4x39w t-5 retrofit kit. Idk about which bulbs I want.

[dublo8]

Originally Posted by gbot9000

Nice, do you have a build thread? There is def enough space with 20l and the reef octopus.

Not yet, but I got the pictures ready so i will put one together soon. Everything looks good, keep up the good work.

Instead of doing the t5 retro what about doing a 250w MH?

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by dublo8

Not yet, but I got the pictures ready so i will put one together soon. Everything looks good, keep up the good work.

Instead of doing the t5 retro what about doing a 250w MH?

If i were to use mh, i would probably get 2x150w's to spread the light more. it seems like 1x250w would create a spotlight effect.

I want t-5's because mh would get to hawt, especially in a Florida summer. They also have a lower profile and are more cost efficient.

[allsps40]

Go with a single 250. I switched fro 2 150s to a 250 over my 40B and It made a big difference in my sps. I can keep sps anywhere in the tank and coverage is good.

[RVANANO]

I posted here before but just had a better look at your stand. How sturdy is it? Looks like the frame itself may not be ideal construction for all the weight. If it feels solid no worries but would hate to see it give out once it's established for a bit. I would guess the plywood skin helps add rigidity but still....

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by RVANANO

I posted here before but just had a better look at your stand. How sturdy is it? Looks like the frame itself may not be ideal construction for all the weight. If it feels solid no worries but would hate to see it give out once it's established for a bit. I would guess the plywood skin helps add rigidity but still....

Any particular spots that you are concerned with? it feels pretty solid to me.

[gbot9000]

Update:

Finished up with 3 clear coats.

Also finished sump.

[dublo8]

Gonna do anything with the inside doors? IMO I like my sump as kind of a private secondary display for myself. Not everybody can see it but I do and I like it perty. I think your the first person that I have seen that has put their return on the left side. I'm not sure what it is and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it just sayin' it threw me off for a second. I wonder if it has something to do with the left side/right side brain thing?

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by dublo8

Gonna do anything with the inside doors? IMO I like my sump as kind of a private secondary display for myself. Not everybody can see it but I do and I like it perty. I think your the first person that I have seen that has put their return on the left side. I'm not sure what it is and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it just sayin' it threw me off for a second. I wonder if it has something to do with the left side/right side brain thing?

I plan on adding smalls shelves on inside of doors for equipment, test kits, etc.

Actually, my return is in the middle/right. The refugium is gonna be on the left.
Better view.

[Ritten]

beautiful finish on that stand.

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by Ritten

beautiful finish on that stand.

Thank you! I wanna get better pics taken, only have an iphone camera.

[evsalty]

Originally Posted by gbot9000

Actually, my return is in the middle/right. The refugium is gonna be on the left.
Better view.

Why did you put the bubble trap between the fuge and the return? You will probably see a lot more bubbles coming from your skimmer output then from the fuge. Also the waterfall that is going to be created by the last baffle of your bubble trap is going to create bubbles itself which will defeat the bubble trap completely.

[dublo8]

I would flip the sump around. Inlet/skimmer>fuge>return. Just my 2c. Evsalty is right though about the bubbles. You should also entertain the idea of painting the back and sides of your sump. It helps to hide wires and junk.


Sent from my overpriced phone using Tapatalk

[gbot9000]

How the light rack will look, kinda looks like its floating. the vertical in back is getting stained now.



Standard standpipe.



Underneath.

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by evsalty

Why did you put the bubble trap between the fuge and the return? You will probably see a lot more bubbles coming from your skimmer output then from the fuge. Also the waterfall that is going to be created by the last baffle of your bubble trap is going to create bubbles itself which will defeat the bubble trap completely.

The water level won't be as low as you think. That glass panel on the right has no real purpose except to visually divide pump and skimmer. I do agree with you that the bubbles from skimmer being a problem more than fuge. Just wasn't enough for everything with a second bubble trap.

[evsalty]

IMHO I would swap it around like Dub mentioned so that the bubble trap is inbetween the return pump and the skimmer. Then I would either make the single fuge baffle taller are at a minimum put a wall of egg crate or netting material on top of the existing short baffle.

Now I have a second concern but for the main tank. In your pic of your overflow it appears that the overflow is maybe 1/2" from the inner lip of the top trim??? Is this the case? I ask because the water going over the overflow wall will more then likely be at a minimum of 1/4" higher then the wall itself if you run anywhere nere 300+ gph. This will not leave you with any capacity to handle water from the sump in the event of a drain clog issue. Especially with the way your sump is setup. I am hoping that it is just the pic making it look that high up because if I am seeing this correctly then you have a flood wating to happen sorry to say.

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by evsalty

Now I have a second concern but for the main tank. In your pic of your overflow it appears that the overflow is maybe 1/2" from the inner lip of the top trim??? Is this the case? I ask because the water going over the overflow wall will more then likely be at a minimum of 1/4" higher then the wall itself if you run anywhere nere 300+ gph. This will not leave you with any capacity to handle water from the sump in the event of a drain clog issue. Especially with the way your sump is setup. I am hoping that it is just the pic making it look that high up because if I am seeing this correctly then you have a flood wating to happen sorry to say.

Yea it is 1/2" from the lip. Even with 14" of overflow though? i can see it going 1/4" but nothing more.
If i see its a problem during the leak test i will trim it down.


Should i put anything between the bulkhead and tee of the return line? maybe like a ball valve or check valve?

[evsalty]

Originally Posted by gbot9000

Yea it is 1/2" from the lip. Even with 14" of overflow though? i can see it going 1/4" but nothing more.
If i see its a problem during the leak test i will trim it down.


Should i put anything between the bulkhead and tee of the return line? maybe like a ball valve or check valve?

I agree that it will probably be around 1/4" higher during NORMAL operation. But if you have any restriction or failure of that drain then you WILL have a flood due to how much water is available in the sump. Because of the short baffle in your sump you will be able to pump close to 1/3 of your sumps normal operating water out of the sump via the return. You will see what I mean when you fill it up and start testing for various scenarios. This flood issue is truthfully a result of both the DT overflow height and the short baffle in the sump since you say you will be running the water level higher then that baffle. But even if you fix the baffle you will probably still have couple gallons avail to be put up in the DT.

[pimp4cheddar]

Looks good.

The set up looks well made.

Just curious...why didn't you paint the inside of the stand?

Clean looking tank!

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by evsalty

I agree that it will probably be around 1/4" higher during NORMAL operation. But if you have any restriction or failure of that drain then you WILL have a flood due to how much water is available in the sump. Because of the short baffle in your sump you will be able to pump close to 1/3 of your sumps normal operating water out of the sump via the return. You will see what I mean when you fill it up and start testing for various scenarios. This flood issue is truthfully a result of both the DT overflow height and the short baffle in the sump since you say you will be running the water level higher then that baffle. But even if you fix the baffle you will probably still have couple gallons avail to be put up in the DT.

k, i will prob redo my baffles then on the skimmer then. you convinced me =)
thanks evsalty, as seen in your sig it looks like you might have had a flood before? and your workin on a 40br? pics?

[gbot9000]

Originally Posted by pimp4cheddar

Looks good.

The set up looks well made.

Just curious...why didn't you paint the inside of the stand?

Clean looking tank!

Thank you!
I did paint most of the inside white, mainly to protect the wood.
I didnt really care to stain it.lol. too lazy.