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#26 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbia, MD
Posts: 59
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I drilled a few tanks and am local. The largest was a 90, and I rigged up a drill press I had borrowed, but with the stability of a press it limited where I could place the holes (easily).
One issue I did find was the glass dust/water slurry leaching between the brace and glass...in hindsight I'd tape that off to prevent. Happy drilling (if you go that route). EW Quote:
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#27 |
Reefer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 282
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I see Lynn lamented that she wished she had drilled her returns closer to the top. Is there an issue w/ being too close to the top presenting a greater chance for failure?
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#28 | |
Reefer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 282
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Quote:
You don't happen to know anyone locally that is crazy enough to be hired to drill a few holes do you? I can't imagine the liability risk vs. monetary reward would be worth it to many businesses. |
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#29 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbia, MD
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Eric |
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#30 |
Reefer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 282
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#31 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbia, MD
Posts: 59
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How many holes? PM Wrench the details. If he can do it, I would come over and help move the tank around as needed. Or if you find someone less jittery I can lend a hand moving the tank into position
I get too nervous working on other people's expensive tanks. I do like the jig idea, never used one myself but it makes sense. EW |
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#32 | |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 8,158
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Quote:
Can I tell you drilling is sooooo easy? I have done a couple dozen, and never had problems. There was a thread that detailed it well. Here it is: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=603816 Use some form of dam to create a pool to cool the diamond saw. I use a thin piece of plywood with a cutout of the hole saw as a starting guide so the saw won't jump. Practice on a junk tank for 2 or 3 holes. For the hell of it I tried just carlessly drilling on a junk tank with no water and almost trying to have it crack....drilled fine, though the holes face was messy. Its EASY! ![]()
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Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater |
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#33 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cali.
Posts: 3,199
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James, Is that rule of thumb the same for acrylic tanks? Distance of hole from top of tank, I mean.
thank you |
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#34 | |
Registered Member
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Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 8,158
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Quote:
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Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater |
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#35 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbia, MD
Posts: 59
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I'd be interesting in knowing the answer too....
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#36 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 977
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For me its not so much about the drilling of the tank. Drilling is VERY easy. But if you consider the cost difference once you buy the drill bit and the overflow kits, why wouldnt you just go with the reef ready tank?
My current tank is a 65H with a GH 700 overflow kit and I HATE IT! I went and bought an Aqueon reef ready 65 and am going to tear down my mature tank that I love and start over just because I hate the current overflow/return setup so much. I will still drill the holes for my closed loop myself because like I said, drilling is the EASY part. However, unless you are an engineer or have a very experienced aquarist helping you design the system (and I mean inch by inch) you will likely go through several setups before you find the one you like. A drain here or a return there off by just an inch will frustrate you to no end. After you are done you will undoubtedly wish you had done it just a little different. Why not just buy the tank that was designed by the pros and proven to work. You will be told by some on here that the reef ready setups are noisy or risky or ........ I have owned several over the last 12 years and after trying my own designs, I have always gone back to the pros. There are some great designs on here like the Herbie and BeanAnimal but if you are doubting your ability, I wouldnt try it by myself. You have to have the height of the holes just right and the length of the pipe just right in the overflow, etc. Like I said earlier, just an inch off can frustrate you to no end. Good luck with whatever you do.
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I swear its the last coral I will buy honey ...... I promise! Last edited by Gold Stripe; 03/21/2011 at 09:17 AM. |
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#37 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 8,158
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I cannot stand the footprint of the standard ReefReady tanks, it made is a PITA for aquascaping and they take up far too much room.
I drilled a horizontal overflow that is only 2.5" front to back, 24" long and 5" high. It is still an eyesore in the tank, but much less so than the the 2 reefready walls. Cost for me for it was a $10 glass sheet that I cut up, the $15 drill bit, and an $8 tube of black silicone. It saved money over the AGA RR, but more importantly I got a small footprint overflow that is quieter, does not trap detritus at the bottom and much more effective at skimming the surface by having over 2 feet of edge for the surface to fall over without teeth. My next tank (hopefully) will be a custom setup with an external overflow setup. I ahve seen a few in persion, and the lack of the eyesore of an overflow is amazing.
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Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater |
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#38 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Middle River, MD
Posts: 272
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I just got my drill bits in to drill my 180 in the next week or so. If all goes well, I would be willing to lend a hand drilling what you have if you are interested. I work in Columbia and live in Middle River so not a big deal.
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#39 | |
Reefer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 282
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Quote:
Right now, I'm doing my best to plan everything out....get advice from those that know....try to get caught up on the newest inventions, equipment and generally accepted practices so I don't make a dumb mistake in my set up. I have a lot of stuff from my old tank and I'm trying to use what I have to keep costs to a minimum. As I come up w/ a plan...I'm having to shift money from tank to lighting and from sump to return pump....etc. |
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#40 |
Reefer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 282
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Double Post
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#41 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 2,152
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Ok so honestly, I have been fighting this battle within myself for 10 years. It's the battle of scrimping a little, or getting exactly what you want. With a 125 gallon tank, the costs of operation could EASILY reach 10,000 bucks. Few people can get by with cheaper systems. Either they get their water from the ocean, or they have ready made solar tubes in the ceiling, but in the grand scheme of things, 150 bucks of 10,000 bucks is only 1.5% of the cost of the entire system. If it helps you sleep better knowing that the holes are where you wanted them, and it was drilled at the factory, then 1.5% increase in the cost is nothing for the piece of mind you'll have.
Don't sacrifice anything in this hobby. It leads to misery, and in the end is more expensive because you go buy the right equiptment later anyway. If you find you're cash strapped, then go with a smaller tank. Just my .02 Aaron
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"If there's nothing wrong with me... then there must be something wrong with the universe!" Current Tank Info: 10 gallon nano with ATS |
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#42 |
Reefer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 282
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#43 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 2,152
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yup
__________________
"If there's nothing wrong with me... then there must be something wrong with the universe!" Current Tank Info: 10 gallon nano with ATS |
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#44 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Middle River, MD
Posts: 272
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Unfortunately I would disagree because with reef ready you can not always establish the system or set-up you want. I have viewed countless reef ready tanks and 9 times out of 10 the owner has a wish list a mile long on what they would change. I love the concept of an open slate to build your system how you want, whether that is drilling for overflows and closed loops or going with MP40's and a simple overflow. Regardless, take your time and know what your end goal is. Having said all that, what are your plans for lighting, flow, etc...
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#45 | |
Reefer
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 282
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I guess with just about everything...you ask 50 people and you get 50 different answers.
I appreciate all the input to help me make my decision. Quote:
I'm trying to incorporate as much of what I already own right now to keep re-startup costs down and upgrade over time. Lighting at this point is planned at 3x175W halides and 4 T5 HO bulbs and some moonlighting. I was trying to find a way to incorporate the double PC Quad 96W ballast and lights I have, but can't figure out how to lay it out and make it work over the tank. Flow....I was planning on a Mag 9 return. Four maxijet 1200s (want to look into mods...never used them before). In my last tank, I used the return off the skimmer with a SCWD and two returns back into the tank. Any advice on either of these areas is appreciated. I'm in no major hurry to get started. I want to have it planned out as much as I can before I buy the tank, cut a hole in the wall.....etc. Thanks for helping. GV |
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