Noob Tank Syndrome - Page 2

gweston · 05/25/2011, 10:00 AM

Nice tank and sump arrangement! It looks nice! The others have pretty much covered everything, so I won't rehash too much.

+1 on the quarantine tank. Get one as soon as you can. It doesn't need to be all that big 10g is fine. It can even just sit on the floor if you don't have a spot. You could move your critters into it while the display cycles. It is easier to do water changes in the QT and use chems such as Amquel and/or Stress-zyme (or some such) to keep ammonia at bay. I avoid dosing such things in a display tank. You want the display ammonia to spike to get a good cycle... but that is BAD if you have critters in there.

BIG_KAHUNA · 05/25/2011, 02:58 PM

UPDATE: OK so the LFS took my damsel and my two GSP. I told him he could have them considering the damsel was mean and the limited number of tank mates with the GSPs. I have also added 16lbs of additional live rock. I also picked up phosphate remover and media bag to try and drop the phosphate currently in the tank while i work on a RO system. How long am I looking at to see this ammonia spike? I left the clown as I'm told he'll be fine through the cycle and contribute to the ammonia input. I added a second power head and cant see any dead spots so far. I have one positioned so that the flow runs behind my live rock as well. I guess I should wait on the clean up crew? As for the skimmer. From all the styles Ive seen I'm thinking that the boxed looking HOB skimmer is the only thing I have room for in my stand. Still just as effective? Are the socks still necessary with a skimmer?

sjwitt · 05/25/2011, 03:06 PM

Well, good that the LFS took the fish back. But I disagree with the comment that 'he'll be fine through the cycle' ... he may survive the cycle but it's cruel. Ammonia and nitrite will burn his gills. Do yourself a favor in the future and take what the LFS tells you with a grain of salt (pun intended).

Anyway, you'll probably see ammonia going up in the next week and don't expect to see a huge jump, remember anything but zero is too much.

BIG_KAHUNA · 05/25/2011, 03:13 PM

Yeah. Sad how it doesn't really matter which fish store I go to, I never feel like I'm getting the whole story. Ill do my best to get him somewhere soon...

sjwitt · 05/25/2011, 03:42 PM

That's best but if you can't just do more frequent water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrite as low as possible. Good luck. It'll all work out.

Crazed · 05/25/2011, 03:44 PM

Sadly you will find that is the case almost everywhere you go. There are a lot of good LFS employees out there, but remember that many of them are trying to sell you something or have little experience actually running a reef setup. An employee at my LFS actively discouraged using QT by claiming the warranty for fish wouldn't cover those placed in QT. He was wrong (both policy-wise and by discouraging QT) and I never listened to him again.

That's what's nice about checking out advice here. Always take what the LFS says with a grain of salt unless an employee has proven s/he knows what's going on and is knowledgeable.

BIG_KAHUNA · 05/30/2011, 11:04 AM

Does anyone on the forums here work in the marine biology field? I was think about moving my degree in this direction. Just curious.

BIG_KAHUNA · 05/30/2011, 05:25 PM

Also, any reason why I couldn't place a HOB skimmer on the middle section of my sump (fuge) and run inlet/outlets into the fuge?

pr12 · 05/30/2011, 07:02 PM

You may try looking for a skimmer and RO/DI unit from craigslist or your local reef club, I'm also a college student and thats where I buy almost all of my equipment to help save money. I'm also looking into the marine biology feild for my graduate program, there are some great schools down there.

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/03/2011, 09:36 AM

OK. So i still dont have an RO/DI unit. Ive been running GFO and the PO4 is nearly zero again. But its probably time for a water change. Here's my question. Ive been using these sea lab trace element replacement bar that dissolve as needed. Will this replace the need for water changes or at least make them needed less often? What else is the point of water change other than to replace these trace elements?
EDIT: I guess other than cleaning sand bed etc?

lcs · 06/03/2011, 11:46 AM

Quote:

What else is the point of water change other than to replace these trace elements?

You're also removing dissolved organics and nitrate with the water you take out. Just as important, if not more, than replacing the trace elements in my opinion.

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/04/2011, 07:41 AM

OK guys I appreciate everyone sticking with me here throught the process.
My current readings.
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
Phosphate - 0.25 and dropping
Iodine - 0.06 (lucky? haven't dosed or anything)

I got an API test for KH (this is carbonate?) and one for Calcium. Still have to test those. And looking into understanding these readings and exactly what they mean. I went to the LFS yesterday and picked up a couple of anemones. A Haitian Pink Tip and what looks like a red bubble tip.I woke up to my Yellow Striped Maroon vigorously playing in the BTA

He looks happy! But I'm afraid the anemone isnt ready for him to be all up on. He's shrunk back a considerable amount and looks stressed over all. What should I do? and anyone have any good sticky links explaining KH GH and calcium?

thebkramer · 06/04/2011, 07:45 AM

Give your nemmie some time to adjust to his new friend.. otherwise you may have to pull one and put in separate tank...

Here are links that may help

Reef Chemistry Articles.. Randy Holmes-Farley
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=102605

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1031074

BTW.. would love to see some pics!!!

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/04/2011, 08:11 AM

Lynnmw1208 · 06/04/2011, 08:11 AM

just to answer your filter sock question, you don't have to run one if you don't want. I don't because I want as many pods as possible to stay in my tank for my mandarin.

how long did you wait before adding the anemone? most people on here don't recommend them in your tank until 6+ months, so I haven't gotten one yet.

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/04/2011, 08:12 AM

HES SO COOL!!!

And yes this is the same ive read varying from one month to a year. So I went for it and they look like they're doing well. Opened up much more than they were at the store. I dunno lol but they look happy?
And thanks for the sticky!
EDIT: KH is about 190ppm I think. Test uses a titration method so is the blue to yellow color change supposed to be a full color change or just that initial blue to greenish yellow?

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/04/2011, 01:58 PM

Calcium : 580ppm

sjwitt · 06/04/2011, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIG_KAHUNA

Ive been using these sea lab trace element replacement bar that dissolve as needed.

Your Calcium is high, should be between 400-500 ppm. Alk is good but on the high side of good. Maybe you shouldn't use the self dissolving bars. Just test and add supplement based on how much your tank consumes. I don't know that they would necessarily "dissolve as needed" as much as they just dissolve over time which may be why readings are high.

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/05/2011, 03:31 PM

OK guys back again with a few more questions for you.

1. In general, how are people (I hope I'm not the only one) getting reasonably clean water to their tanks without an RO/DI system? I will be moving in a couple of months and will hopefully stay put for a few years but even then I'm a renter. I don't think land lords will take kindly to the idea of tapping into plumbing for a system. Under sink setups? Specialized tap water filters? Whats the best way to go here?

2. I have an Oceanic rimless. Looks pretty sexy without the glass lid. Does anyone run "topless" on their tanks? Fish jumping out? Snails making it into the return a problem? Increased evaporation rates? I feel like salt creep starves the tank of a considerable amount of light.

3. I have been running GFO for the last couple weeks or so. Changed the media bag today. Says to rinse thoroughly until water runs clear. OK. But as I went to rinse with tap water it made a fizzing sound and produced a small amount of smoke.

Normal? I don't have RO water to rinse with.

4. I think the refugium is doing its job. I have a fair amount of "red slime" (this is cyno right?) building up in it but not the DT. The light stays on in the fuge 24hrs to out compete algae in the DT (from what I've read). But what do I do about the slime in the fuge?

I think those are the only ones for now. Any help is always appreciated!
Scott

Seahorse NJRC · 06/05/2011, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIG_KAHUNA

OK guys back again with a few more questions for you.

1. In general, how are people (I hope I'm not the only one) getting reasonably clean water to their tanks without an RO/DI system? I will be moving in a couple of months and will hopefully stay put for a few years but even then I'm a renter. I don't think land lords will take kindly to the idea of tapping into plumbing for a system. Under sink setups? Specialized tap water filters? Whats the best way to go here?

2. I have an Oceanic rimless. Looks pretty sexy without the glass lid. Does anyone run "topless" on their tanks? Fish jumping out? Snails making it into the return a problem? Increased evaporation rates? I feel like salt creep starves the tank of a considerable amount of light.

3. I have been running GFO for the last couple weeks or so. Changed the media bag today. Says to rinse thoroughly until water runs clear. OK. But as I went to rinse with tap water it made a fizzing sound and produced a small amount of smoke.

Normal? I don't have RO water to rinse with.

4. I think the refugium is doing its job. I have a fair amount of "red slime" (this is cyno right?) building up in it but not the DT. The light stays on in the fuge 24hrs to out compete algae in the DT (from what I've read). But what do I do about the slime in the fuge?

I think those are the only ones for now. Any help is always appreciated!
Scott

1) You can purchase RO/DI water or even distilled water and use that. Also, you could get a unit that attaches to the faucet. They make adapters for them.
2) I prefer to have no lid on my tanks due to lack of oxygen exchange, salt build up, and heat build up. You can make a screen with pond netting or egg crate.
3) No answer.
4) I would cut the lighting down a bit and siphon the cyano out.

thebkramer · 06/05/2011, 03:43 PM

so how are the nemmies doing??
has the one adjusted to the clown yet?

I don't use a RO/DI..
what I do is fill 1gallon jugs with tap and let them sit for a night, usually up to a week before I use them.. this helps with the dechlorination bit..
I sometimes go to Wally World & fill up a couple 3g jugs of the "culligan man" water

before I started using my tap though, I did have it tested.. I lucked out & have no phosphates or nitrates in my water

I usually retest the tap every month just to be safe.

sorry.. can't answer any of your other questions

but.. can you use eggcrate or mesh on your tank instead of the glass tops??

The Pics look Great btw!!!

The Maroon looks happier than ever in the BTA!!!

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/05/2011, 06:02 PM

Thanks for the responses! And yes after their first feeding they really started opening up!
I was also wanting to set up QT. From what I've read I need a 10 or 20 gal tank, a HOB power filter, ~50W heater, thermometer, ammonia meter, and that's it right? Seed the filter in the DT until its needed in the QT?
EDIT: and a light lol

BIG_KAHUNA · 06/06/2011, 08:58 PM

Currently running 2 39W T5HO Actinic and 2 39W T5HO 10,000K on a 57gal 36x18x21 So I'm looking at ~2.7W/gal. Way under what we're shooting for right? And is that 3-5W/Gal including Actinic Lighting?

06/04/2011, 07:45 AM	#38
thebkramer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Clifton Park, NY Posts: 3,198	Give your nemmie some time to adjust to his new friend.. otherwise you may have to pull one and put in separate tank... Here are links that may help Reef Chemistry Articles.. Randy Holmes-Farley http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=102605 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1031074 BTW.. would love to see some pics!!! __________________ Rhonda There is NO such things as Dumb Questions!! There are However.. Dumb Answers!!! ;) ____________ Current Tank Info: 55g reef....Current Orbit SunPaq Lights, HOB Eshopps, HOB AquaClear 110, 2-1400 Koralia Powerheads & 1 Nano Koralia, 40+ lbs LR, 2" LS

06/04/2011, 08:11 AM	#40
Lynnmw1208 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Brunswick, Ohio Posts: 3,306	just to answer your filter sock question, you don't have to run one if you don't want. I don't because I want as many pods as possible to stay in my tank for my mandarin. how long did you wait before adding the anemone? most people on here don't recommend them in your tank until 6+ months, so I haven't gotten one yet. __________________ equipment: Eshopps psk-200 skimmer, Mag 12 pump, 30gal sump, 2x 300w Finnex heaters, glass-holes 1500gph overflow kit with 3/4" return kits, 72" 8x36w t-5 AquaticLife light, 66lbs of LR, 150lbs of tropic eden reeflakes, 2 Koralia Evo 1400, JBJ ATO, BRS dual GFO/carbon reactors, Hydor smartwave Current Tank Info: 125gallon

06/04/2011, 08:12 AM	#41
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	HES SO COOL!!! And yes this is the same ive read varying from one month to a year. So I went for it and they look like they're doing well. Opened up much more than they were at the store. I dunno lol but they look happy? And thanks for the sticky! EDIT: KH is about 190ppm I think. Test uses a titration method so is the blue to yellow color change supposed to be a full color change or just that initial blue to greenish yellow? Last edited by BIG_KAHUNA; 06/04/2011 at 08:30 AM.

06/05/2011, 03:43 PM	#46
thebkramer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Clifton Park, NY Posts: 3,198	so how are the nemmies doing?? has the one adjusted to the clown yet? I don't use a RO/DI.. what I do is fill 1gallon jugs with tap and let them sit for a night, usually up to a week before I use them.. this helps with the dechlorination bit.. I sometimes go to Wally World & fill up a couple 3g jugs of the "culligan man" water before I started using my tap though, I did have it tested.. I lucked out & have no phosphates or nitrates in my water I usually retest the tap every month just to be safe. sorry.. can't answer any of your other questions but.. can you use eggcrate or mesh on your tank instead of the glass tops?? The Pics look Great btw!!! The Maroon looks happier than ever in the BTA!!! __________________ Rhonda There is NO such things as Dumb Questions!! There are However.. Dumb Answers!!! ;) ____________ Current Tank Info: 55g reef....Current Orbit SunPaq Lights, HOB Eshopps, HOB AquaClear 110, 2-1400 Koralia Powerheads & 1 Nano Koralia, 40+ lbs LR, 2" LS

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05/25/2011, 10:00 AM	#26
gweston Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Gardner, MA Posts: 961	Nice tank and sump arrangement! It looks nice! The others have pretty much covered everything, so I won't rehash too much. +1 on the quarantine tank. Get one as soon as you can. It doesn't need to be all that big 10g is fine. It can even just sit on the floor if you don't have a spot. You could move your critters into it while the display cycles. It is easier to do water changes in the QT and use chems such as Amquel and/or Stress-zyme (or some such) to keep ammonia at bay. I avoid dosing such things in a display tank. You want the display ammonia to spike to get a good cycle... but that is BAD if you have critters in there.

05/25/2011, 02:58 PM	#27
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	UPDATE: OK so the LFS took my damsel and my two GSP. I told him he could have them considering the damsel was mean and the limited number of tank mates with the GSPs. I have also added 16lbs of additional live rock. I also picked up phosphate remover and media bag to try and drop the phosphate currently in the tank while i work on a RO system. How long am I looking at to see this ammonia spike? I left the clown as I'm told he'll be fine through the cycle and contribute to the ammonia input. I added a second power head and cant see any dead spots so far. I have one positioned so that the flow runs behind my live rock as well. I guess I should wait on the clean up crew? As for the skimmer. From all the styles Ive seen I'm thinking that the boxed looking HOB skimmer is the only thing I have room for in my stand. Still just as effective? Are the socks still necessary with a skimmer?

05/25/2011, 03:06 PM	#28
sjwitt Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: USA, East Coast Posts: 896	Well, good that the LFS took the fish back. But I disagree with the comment that 'he'll be fine through the cycle' ... he may survive the cycle but it's cruel. Ammonia and nitrite will burn his gills. Do yourself a favor in the future and take what the LFS tells you with a grain of salt (pun intended). Anyway, you'll probably see ammonia going up in the next week and don't expect to see a huge jump, remember anything but zero is too much.

05/25/2011, 03:13 PM	#29
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	Yeah. Sad how it doesn't really matter which fish store I go to, I never feel like I'm getting the whole story. Ill do my best to get him somewhere soon...

05/25/2011, 03:42 PM	#30
sjwitt Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: USA, East Coast Posts: 896	That's best but if you can't just do more frequent water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrite as low as possible. Good luck. It'll all work out.

05/25/2011, 03:44 PM	#31
Crazed Registered Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 292	Sadly you will find that is the case almost everywhere you go. There are a lot of good LFS employees out there, but remember that many of them are trying to sell you something or have little experience actually running a reef setup. An employee at my LFS actively discouraged using QT by claiming the warranty for fish wouldn't cover those placed in QT. He was wrong (both policy-wise and by discouraging QT) and I never listened to him again. That's what's nice about checking out advice here. Always take what the LFS says with a grain of salt unless an employee has proven s/he knows what's going on and is knowledgeable.

05/30/2011, 11:04 AM	#32
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	Does anyone on the forums here work in the marine biology field? I was think about moving my degree in this direction. Just curious.

05/30/2011, 05:25 PM	#33
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	Also, any reason why I couldn't place a HOB skimmer on the middle section of my sump (fuge) and run inlet/outlets into the fuge?

05/30/2011, 07:02 PM	#34
pr12 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: colorado Posts: 198	You may try looking for a skimmer and RO/DI unit from craigslist or your local reef club, I'm also a college student and thats where I buy almost all of my equipment to help save money. I'm also looking into the marine biology feild for my graduate program, there are some great schools down there.

06/03/2011, 09:36 AM	#35
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	OK. So i still dont have an RO/DI unit. Ive been running GFO and the PO4 is nearly zero again. But its probably time for a water change. Here's my question. Ive been using these sea lab trace element replacement bar that dissolve as needed. Will this replace the need for water changes or at least make them needed less often? What else is the point of water change other than to replace these trace elements? EDIT: I guess other than cleaning sand bed etc?

06/04/2011, 07:41 AM	#37
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	OK guys I appreciate everyone sticking with me here throught the process. My current readings. Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 0 Phosphate - 0.25 and dropping Iodine - 0.06 (lucky? haven't dosed or anything) I got an API test for KH (this is carbonate?) and one for Calcium. Still have to test those. And looking into understanding these readings and exactly what they mean. I went to the LFS yesterday and picked up a couple of anemones. A Haitian Pink Tip and what looks like a red bubble tip.I woke up to my Yellow Striped Maroon vigorously playing in the BTA He looks happy! But I'm afraid the anemone isnt ready for him to be all up on. He's shrunk back a considerable amount and looks stressed over all. What should I do? and anyone have any good sticky links explaining KH GH and calcium?

06/04/2011, 01:58 PM	#42
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	Calcium : 580ppm

06/05/2011, 03:31 PM	#44
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	OK guys back again with a few more questions for you. 1. In general, how are people (I hope I'm not the only one) getting reasonably clean water to their tanks without an RO/DI system? I will be moving in a couple of months and will hopefully stay put for a few years but even then I'm a renter. I don't think land lords will take kindly to the idea of tapping into plumbing for a system. Under sink setups? Specialized tap water filters? Whats the best way to go here? 2. I have an Oceanic rimless. Looks pretty sexy without the glass lid. Does anyone run "topless" on their tanks? Fish jumping out? Snails making it into the return a problem? Increased evaporation rates? I feel like salt creep starves the tank of a considerable amount of light. 3. I have been running GFO for the last couple weeks or so. Changed the media bag today. Says to rinse thoroughly until water runs clear. OK. But as I went to rinse with tap water it made a fizzing sound and produced a small amount of smoke. Normal? I don't have RO water to rinse with. 4. I think the refugium is doing its job. I have a fair amount of "red slime" (this is cyno right?) building up in it but not the DT. The light stays on in the fuge 24hrs to out compete algae in the DT (from what I've read). But what do I do about the slime in the fuge? I think those are the only ones for now. Any help is always appreciated! Scott

06/05/2011, 06:02 PM	#47
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	Thanks for the responses! And yes after their first feeding they really started opening up! I was also wanting to set up QT. From what I've read I need a 10 or 20 gal tank, a HOB power filter, ~50W heater, thermometer, ammonia meter, and that's it right? Seed the filter in the DT until its needed in the QT? EDIT: and a light lol

06/06/2011, 08:58 PM	#48
BIG_KAHUNA Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: 4.815 S 162.342 E Posts: 478	Currently running 2 39W T5HO Actinic and 2 39W T5HO 10,000K on a 57gal 36x18x21 So I'm looking at ~2.7W/gal. Way under what we're shooting for right? And is that 3-5W/Gal including Actinic Lighting?