I need MAJOR help please - Page 2

Sport507 · 02/10/2012, 02:13 PM

Are you seeing any coralline growth in the tank?

What type of substrate are you using?

Did you build the tank with live rock, dry rock or both?

Preble · 02/10/2012, 02:13 PM

Hmm.
I hope it gets right soon.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

FragIt Dan · 02/10/2012, 03:32 PM

Copper test might be a waste of money if you can just bring your water in and get the LFS to do it, I doubt you would ever test for it again.

I have NO experience with LED lighting but have been reading up on it over the last year or so. The symptoms sounds suspiciously like a lighting issue and at this point I would bet you an acro frag that's what it is (I am in Canada so can't ship it to you so this is a hollow bet

. As your lights are DIY, I would double check which CREE LEDs you installed as there are multiple choices:
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E.pdf
I am under the impression there are a lot more than just the few listed in the link, as well as multiple generations of them with different specs... my point is that you might have a light that will not grow corals, but would be no problem for fish. It would be nice if you could borrow a halide or quad T5's and rule your lighting out as the issue.

If you can't borrow a light maybe try this... No idea how well this would work to rule your lights out as the problem (others following this thread please comment on this idea), but if you turn the lights in your room out at night (no other sources of light), put a white piece of plastic in your tank, and take a photo of it with your tank lights on, your digital camera, or possibly some after market software will give you a color spectrum on the photo (make sure nothing else is in the photo other than the white plastic). You can DIY a color spectrum analyses and post it up for review here or on a new thread to see what people have to say. I have thought of doing this myself and might try it on my lights tonight and compare it to the manufacturers specs to see if it works. Mmmm... weekend project!
Dan

Playa-1 · 02/10/2012, 04:16 PM

The salinity I checked with a refractometer from my brother and a conductivity probe, both came up the same.
Have these devices been calibrated lately?

Are you filtering your water? Have you tested the water that you are using lately for Chlorine or Chloramine? Could it be a water filter failure?

disc1 · 02/10/2012, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FragIt Dan

As for the hose clamps, depending upon what metal they are made of, rust is just the FO of GFO, but there may be other contaminants in there too, not a likely culprit IMO.

This is only partially true. Hose clamps are never made of pure iron. They are usually galvanized. That means zinc which is just as bad as copper.

wilsonreefs · 02/10/2012, 07:51 PM

Look at night after the lights have gone off. Let things settle out and see if there are any "varmits" eating your corals. We just had a Polycheate worm wipe out all the corals in a 300 gallon tank here in my hometown. Well actually it was two worms, one was about 3' long the other was just over 4' long. (yes, thats feet!)

Carl

00Warpig00 · 02/10/2012, 07:54 PM

When you add your fish you mention bag floating and then drip... then what... do you quarantine or straight into the Display? If you go straight to the display do you net the fish and add to the display or dump your drip bucket with Display tank water AND the bag water in? Just curious how you are adding if while adding fish you get some water with something in it (copper metals etc from LFS) and enough gets into your display tank water could this be an issue?

Nick

Crkbaby · 02/10/2012, 08:25 PM

I am not convinced that just your DI is bad the DI stage is just for making RO water DI. RO water should not have phosphates in it. Sounds like your membrane on your unit is bad.

FragIt Dan · 02/11/2012, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disc1

This is only partially true. Hose clamps are never made of pure iron. They are usually galvanized. That means zinc which is just as bad as copper.

Yeah, I wasn't sure on that. Thanks for clarifying

. Any idea about stainless ones? I can't see anyone using galvanized in a tank, but there are lots of bits of pumps made of stainless, so I am assuming a stainless hose clamp would be fine.
Dan
PS- comment on Cu from fish store water was clever, didn't think of that! And crazy giant worms, I'm going to have nightmares now!

00Warpig00 · 02/12/2012, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FragIt Dan

PS- comment on Cu from fish store water was clever, didn't think of that! And crazy giant worms, I'm going to have nightmares now!

Yeah. What is in the LFS water scares the hell out of me too.

Thats the problem with letting LFS water get into your system. YOU have no idea what it's contents are. Good/Bad/Parasites/Disease/Copper/Ammonia, Other additives etc. God only knows whats in that water.

Nick

02/10/2012, 02:13 PM	#26
Sport507 ~Just a Farm Boy~ Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Central Indiana Posts: 1,651	Are you seeing any coralline growth in the tank? What type of substrate are you using? Did you build the tank with live rock, dry rock or both? __________________ Sport If you do not test for it, DON'T dose it. Indiana INDMAS Member

02/10/2012, 02:13 PM	#27
Preble Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: High Point North Carolina Posts: 341	Hmm. I hope it gets right soon. Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk __________________ I can't afford to take you to a fancy dinner, but we can go back to my place and eat in-front of my fancy reef tank. Current Tank Info: 50 mixed

02/10/2012, 03:32 PM	#28
FragIt Dan Marine Biologist Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Nanaimo, BC Posts: 149	Copper test might be a waste of money if you can just bring your water in and get the LFS to do it, I doubt you would ever test for it again. I have NO experience with LED lighting but have been reading up on it over the last year or so. The symptoms sounds suspiciously like a lighting issue and at this point I would bet you an acro frag that's what it is (I am in Canada so can't ship it to you so this is a hollow bet . As your lights are DIY, I would double check which CREE LEDs you installed as there are multiple choices: http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E.pdf I am under the impression there are a lot more than just the few listed in the link, as well as multiple generations of them with different specs... my point is that you might have a light that will not grow corals, but would be no problem for fish. It would be nice if you could borrow a halide or quad T5's and rule your lighting out as the issue. If you can't borrow a light maybe try this... No idea how well this would work to rule your lights out as the problem (others following this thread please comment on this idea), but if you turn the lights in your room out at night (no other sources of light), put a white piece of plastic in your tank, and take a photo of it with your tank lights on, your digital camera, or possibly some after market software will give you a color spectrum on the photo (make sure nothing else is in the photo other than the white plastic). You can DIY a color spectrum analyses and post it up for review here or on a new thread to see what people have to say. I have thought of doing this myself and might try it on my lights tonight and compare it to the manufacturers specs to see if it works. Mmmm... weekend project! Dan __________________ FragIt Dan Save the Reef, Buy a Frag! Current Tank Info: 100G frag tank, 90G show tank, 75G softies, 33G medi tank

02/10/2012, 07:54 PM	#32
00Warpig00 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Schaumburg, IL. Posts: 621	When you add your fish you mention bag floating and then drip... then what... do you quarantine or straight into the Display? If you go straight to the display do you net the fish and add to the display or dump your drip bucket with Display tank water AND the bag water in? Just curious how you are adding if while adding fish you get some water with something in it (copper metals etc from LFS) and enough gets into your display tank water could this be an issue? Nick __________________ 180G - 5 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels, Two Lined Sleeper Goby, Royal Gramma, Flame Angel pair, Yellow Stripe Maroon Clown, Pearlscale Butterfly, Australian Harlequin Tuskfish, Magnificent Foxface, Yellow Current Tank Info: 180G FOWLR Established 10/2010

02/10/2012, 04:16 PM	#29
Playa-1 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Laguna Niguel, CA Posts: 7,497	The salinity I checked with a refractometer from my brother and a conductivity probe, both came up the same. Have these devices been calibrated lately? Are you filtering your water? Have you tested the water that you are using lately for Chlorine or Chloramine? Could it be a water filter failure?

02/10/2012, 07:51 PM	#31
wilsonreefs Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Jonesboro, Ar Posts: 284	Look at night after the lights have gone off. Let things settle out and see if there are any "varmits" eating your corals. We just had a Polycheate worm wipe out all the corals in a 300 gallon tank here in my hometown. Well actually it was two worms, one was about 3' long the other was just over 4' long. (yes, thats feet!) Carl

02/10/2012, 08:25 PM	#33
Crkbaby Registered Member. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Cleveland Ohio Posts: 422	I am not convinced that just your DI is bad the DI stage is just for making RO water DI. RO water should not have phosphates in it. Sounds like your membrane on your unit is bad.